UKC

Hi there, 

I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations for schools or guides in the Tonsai or Railay areas of Thailand?

 I’m headed out there in October with my daughter. There’s a whole bunch of schools but I’m struggling to differentiate one from another. What should I be looking out for?

thanks 

In reply to Hodgie:

Sorry,  no idea about guides but I have an old guide book to Thailand climbing you can have for a fiver to cover postage if you'd like it for a bit of background before you go?

In reply to Martin Bennett:

Cheers for that, we have a crag guide, we’re just after some good local knowledge and a spot of tuition.

In reply to Hodgie:

I don't have a specific recommendation, but just to say please be careful. Instagram fever has hit the area hard, and there are as you say a whole bunch of "schools" that have popped up to capitalise on this, catering mainly to the "backpackers having a go because we're here/we saw it on instagram" crowd I guess.

Taking large groups out to toprope stuff (straight off the rings, naturally) but mainly get selfies of them hanging off a rope or whatever. We were at a crag last year trying to enjoy some quiet climbing. Ha. A large group turned up, mainly young tourists. No helmets. Lots of noise. "Guides" smoking while belaying/instructing. Belaying one handed and at one point hands free. No gri-gri. Zero crag awareness. Standing right underneath other climbers and standing on ropes. The clients  aren't to blame of course, but the guides are

In reply to Hodgie:

I realise this makes me sound like a right miserable git, I swear im not!!!! Overtourism just saddens me, and I say this in full knowledge that by visiting, I am part of the problem too. I don't blame the Thais one bit for trying to make a living. We'd all do the same in their position. Just be careful. 

In reply to mishabruml:

I'd agree with this, I've seen some terrifyingly casual belaying/guiding here, be careful! 

In reply to Hodgie: as above . Get sone quality instruction here ( where ever your here is that is ) before you go . Couple of days with an MIA ( or whatever they are called now - somebody will fill that gap in shortly ) focus on leading and descending sport  safely should probably sort you out . Too hit and miss in Raleigh to risk it . 

In reply to mishabruml:

Thanks for that. These are all the points that have fuelled this question. But how from this side of the world do we evaluate a guides credentials? 
 

is there an NGB for climbing 🧗 n Thailand? I’ve seen references to South East Asia Climbing Federation but it’s not looking overly convincing.

In reply to mike123:

Thanks for that. We’re both climbers, we’ve had instruction and built some of our own experience. I dare say we could manage but would really rather we had some good local knowledge.

In reply to Hodgie:

'Railay Rock You'

Didn't go out with the guy however we stayed at his hotel and spent a fair amount of time chatting about climbing etc and he pointed us in the direction of some classics. He has a small shop and does guiding days and believe is one of the main chaps who does a fair amount of the rebolting etc and seemed pretty genuine.

However yeah I would also reiterate the sentiment that some of the 'guides' are not good. 

Side note would recommend 

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/ao_nang_tower-3784/orange_chandeli...

In reply to Hodgie:

I have climbed with a guide in Tonsai 20 or so years ago and just walked into the office on the main drag and booked somebody for 2 days and it worked fine. I went last year in January with a partner but noted that there was a climbing school next to the mini mart (The Rock Shop on google maps). Most of the guides there do big top roping groups but I am sure you can get 1:1 for a price. They are pretty switched on so if you are experienced I am sure they will let you lead routes at your level. October is a good time to go to avoid the crowds but will be hotter than peak season. Tonsai probably has better quality in the lower grades ie 6a/b. At Railay they will probably get you on the 123 wall. Everything is horrendously polished and slimy but good fun and overall worth a visit. Depending on what you are after Tonsai is more chilled and has a climbers vibe while Railay is bigger, more crowded and mainstream.

In reply to Tim saville:

That’s great info will have a lot ok for them.

In reply to Morgan Woods:

Thanks, I was looking at a place that in Tonsai, who seem to be involved in rebolting. They recommended the rock shop too. Thanks

In reply to Tim saville:

Orange Chandeliers sounds great fun cheers

In reply to Hodgie:

This may be no help whatsoever, but if climbing instruction is the primary objective ( I appreciate it might not be), I couldn’t recommend Chiang Mai more highly. 
 

In Railay/Tonsai, I had a good guy (sorry can’t remember his name). But as with others here, I saw some terrible behaviour by some leaders.

In reply to Hodgie:

Sea East Asian climbing federation was setup to bring some structure and regulation to the expanding sports climbing scene here in SE Asia. There are many people who’ve been through the system (some better than others). Once qualified in one SE Asian country your qualifications are accepted across the rest of the area. Some of the instructors (level2) are very experienced and work well with people from different backgrounds and experience. You can check out the instructors by level and country at the SEACF website. Also there are several instructors who ‘appear’ to have limited formal qualifications but are in reality really experienced ie route creators, international climbing comp route setters.
North Wall is an alternative place to climb at Krabi offering single and multi pitch routes. If you fancy climbing across the border come here to Malaysia and climb at Keteri- the cliffs are much quieter, a wide variety of routes and if you drop a line to the Perlis climbers facebook page then someone would probably welcome you and show you the cliffs

In reply to Hodgie:

When I went many years ago, I had a guide from Hot Rock. It's part run by a Swedish couple. Yhu was fine belaying and a good climber. Sad to hear what's going on now, but there's a possible contact. Hope it works out.

In reply to Hodgie:

 I usually book mine through https://gowithguide.com/ they connect you with local guides who speak English and can tailor the day to your needs. Makes the whole experience smoother and more fun, especially when traveling with family. Have an awesome trip!