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Three point trad anchor review

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 nopuk24 01 Aug 2025

Hey,

Just practicing at home when I can. Plan to head (with experienced others) to a small crag, 10m cliff. Where a static rope would be used to set up for bottom roping.

Assuming I can find three anchor points and equalise properly is the attached set up done 'right' (i know there are many ways all safe). I have fig 8 on bite to anchor 1, down to cliff edge back to clip in at anchor 2 and back to edge and clove at anchor 3 - equalisation knot and isolation knot with carinbiners ready for the dynamic rope.

I was told before that using a sling to make two points into 1, and hence I would only ever need to use the setup for two point opposed to the three above. Hope all this makes sense ?


 Luke90 01 Aug 2025
In reply to nopuk24:

I've belayed on worse than that post from time to time, but I'm not at all convinced by the buckets!

More seriously, the ropework looks perfectly reasonable as far as I can judge from a photo and given that it's at least in the region of correct, I don't think you'll learn all that much from a bunch of us being pedants about disadvantages of this approach or potential alternatives. Not least because any variations are very tricky to describe well in text alone to anyone who's not already familiar with them. It's a perfectly adequate starting point and you'll learn much more on the actual cliff with experienced people giving feedback in person.

 Alex Riley 01 Aug 2025
In reply to Luke90:

Looks good, ropework wise. Obviously it's an imaginary edge, but try and avoid having knots sitting on the edge itself (creates points that wear quickly).

 Offwidth 01 Aug 2025
In reply to Alex Riley:

The main point I thought of immediately.

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 Exile 02 Aug 2025
In reply to nopuk24:

You've made a good job of that.

At the risk of being a pedant - great idea to have two opposing crabs for the top rope. It shouldn't be a problem because of this doubling up but they will orientated with the wider end up (through the two strands of your static rope) and the narrower end down (with the one strand of your top rope through.) This means through repeated use of the top rope I would expect the screw gates on the crabs to undo due to the jiggling or the top rope, gravity and the fact that, in this orientation, the gates will undo downwards. As I said, not a problem if the crabs are in opposition, but I would get each person to check and re tighten the gates at the top of each ascent, and if you are ever buying crabs specifically for this purpose get some oval ones. 

In reply to nopuk24:

Looks good. It would be worth buying some rope protectors too. I use the petzl protec ones and really rate them.

 ExiledScot 02 Aug 2025
In reply to nopuk24:

Equalise once just over the edge, use edge protection. 

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 timparkin 02 Aug 2025
In reply to nopuk24:

Unless you have a lot of tail, it's probably good insurance to add a stopper to cloves and fig8s if you're not checking them regularly. Cloves can creep under light cyclic loading unless well tensioned - I think fig8's are fine though. 

plus rope protector as mentioned. If you want to keep your ropes clean, buy a couple of steel screwgates (aviods black aluminium oxides when the anodising inevitably wears away). 

I'm not sure there's a good reason for an isolation knot (and it can wear against the rock so would need another protector). 

I've got a plastic bottle with the top chopped off to protect knots (like the following but ignore the knot he's using)

https://youtu.be/nvTCI8J3I9M?si=nAVVTAODQdqAizHW&t=471


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