UKC

Lightweight softshells are one of the more versatile pieces of outdoor clothing, offering a bit of protection from the weather while remaining breathable and easy to pack. In this group test we look at jackets with an active cut, and stretch fabric that's robust enough for both rock climbing and general hill use.

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In a world of very expensive kit the Rab Borealis seems like a good price. I've had the normal version for a couple of months and it's nearly always either worn or in my pack on a day out. If I was being fussy I'd add a chest pocket to my regular version but that's probably all I'd change.

Not sure what is going on with that very long hood elastic on the Black Diamond. I can see it catching annoyingly...

I've not found that in practice. It is a brilliant hood with or without a helmet for such a light softshell. Quite the feat imo.

Toby A did a great review of this a while back.

You have a great memory - published in June 2018, but I was testing through the excellent winter of 17/18! https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/clothing/softshell/black_diamond_alpine_sta...

The ME Echo is a great alternative to the squall if you don't like the offset zip. I've found it to be of better quality than the Borealis

Have the very first version of the Borealis and have had it since the year my son was born, 12 going on 13 years ago now. That thing has done God knows how many miles of rock and days in the hills. Its looking tatty now so I got the Alpine version which has a chest pocket which it stuffs into.

Can we have a "how well does it roll up over climbers forearms" part of the test? I frequently want to do this and most don't seem to have the capacity.

Also, can we have hoodless versions? I don't know of many climbers that use hoods for most climbing..... 

I like your forearm test but can't agree about the hoods, I won't buy a jacket without one!

I think anything used for climbing that has a hood needs the hood to be stowable when down so that it doesn't end up as a wind sock (I live on the east coast of Scotland...) AND it needs to fit over a helmet. I note that the Montane Tenacity is available in a hoodless version so full credit there!

And another vote for the forearm test, who wants to jam into a crack using fabric? Quick way to make life harder for yourself and wreck the sleeves in the process!

I had a Squall but the zip was too annoying so sold it. Fabric was excellent tho. The Echo is made of the same stuff but the cut was too long (I’m 176) so might be good for taller people. Settled on a Borealis and an ME Arrow (which is great, I really rate it) for cooler conditions.

Personally don’t care about the hood being stowable and don’t mind if it’s an under or over. If it’s supposed to be over though it actually needs to fit over easily.

Just my preference though, there’s pretty much something for everyone these days!