UKC

Orco Valley - rope length

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 dominikk 12 Aug 2025

Hello!

We're currently on our way through the alps heading for Briancon. We just thought of revisiting Orco Valley to climb some routes we missed last time.

Unfortunately, we only brought our 50m double ropes and left the 60m ones at home.

The guidebook recommends 60m doubles for almost all multipitch climbs in the valley. I can't remember if they are truly necessary, or if most descents also work with 50m ropes.

Has anyone climbed in Orco using 50m doubles? The route Diedro Nanchez (6b) is on our list. According to the guidebook, some belays are skipped by doing 3 rappels of 55m. Has anyone actually climbed that route and knows if you can rappel without skipping belays?

Thank you and enjoy your summer!

 aostaman 12 Aug 2025
In reply to dominikk:

There's a photo on the link and the ukc name of the person who took. I'd ping them. 

As a broad guideline, I'd always recommend 60's in Italy. Particularly multi pitch as it's usually (not always) guides who put the routes up or maintain them. This minimises route time with clients. 

 Rick Graham 12 Aug 2025
In reply to dominikk:

Fwiw, I have only ever climbed  multi pitch in Italy and the rest of Europe with 50 m half ropes ( or shorter).  Never had a problem. Did Nanchez in 2002.

 Alex Riley 12 Aug 2025
In reply to Rick Graham:

Did Nanchez on 50s, fine with a bit of care.

OP dominikk 14 Aug 2025
In reply to Alex Riley:

Thank you all for taking the time to respond! We'll give it a go (if the heat lets us).


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