UKC

Edelrid Ohmega Clipping

Hi Everyone,

Like lots of folks I’ve just bought an Edelrid Ohmega. It’s a brilliant device for those who regularly climb with someone lots lighter than them. However, I’m finding it awkward to clip in the correct orientation in the first bolt.

From Edlrid ‘the pulley wheel needs to face outwards!’

In this image the climber is on the + side of the device, this is correct.

In the next image the Ohmega is incorrect:

I’m struggling to see the difference and also can’t quite suss out how to guarantee clipping the ‘correct way’ when I’m on a route. In use it seems the position on my harness and which hand I clip with twists it and it ends up in an orientation which I can’t predict.

Comments/advice welcomed.

Cheers,

Steve

In reply to steveoracle:

Hi Steve,

As discussed in our emails, the pulley wheel needs to face away from the wall as in picture 1.

The rope going to the climber always runs over the pulley wheel so having this facing towards the wall will stop the Ohmega functioning as intended. 

If, for some reason, you are unable to clip the Ohmega in the correct orientation when on route then I suggest getting a clipstick to ensure it is clipped correctly. The other option is to try and work out which hand you will end up clipping the first draw with and position the Ohmega according to this. 

I have used an Ohmega since last November and have always managed to clip it the correct way with a bit of preparation before setting off on the climb. Please do not use the Ohmega in the incorrect orientation. 

Please see our the device user manual if you have any further issues or questions: 

https://avs.edelrid.com/images/attribut/54732_GAL_OHMEGA_Part_I_Part_II_ANS....

Thanks,

EDELRID UK

In reply to steveoracle:

Did go through a similar experience where it twisted round after placing (think it was after 2nd draw went in above) and it looked super weird. I'm always clip sticking 2 in though, so can test it's ok with a pull on the rope from the ground. Placing it on lead probably does require a bit of practice / planning!

"Shiny metal bit on the bottom, pulley up top pointing in the direction rope is going" is how I'm remembering it.

In reply to steveoracle:

I’ve only recently started using mine, but I already feel like the orientation isn’t an issue. I think I mainly ensure that the big silver release button is on the left.

In reply to steveoracle:is it any more difficult than stick clipping and avoiding back clipping?

In reply to steveoracle:

Is the karabiner on the Ohmega oriented the same way as those on your quickdraws? If you are used to a particular action when removing it from your harness and clipping the bolt this might be why you are getting it wrong.

In reply to wbo2:

Hi, it's nothing like back clipping. I never back clip. The issue here is the difference between right hand and left hand clipping. If I rack the Ohmega on the LHS of my harness and clip with my right hand it's fine, every time, if I clip with my left hand it's wrong every time (and vice versa). .... at this point I think you need to anticipate hand you'll be clipping from before racking the device ... 

In reply to Howard J:

have you tried an Ohmega? 

In reply to steveoracle:

Not yet, but I intend to get one. But surely it is no different from attaching a quickdraw if you are thinking about which way the bottom gate will face? In both cases you need to think about which side of the bolt you will be clipping from so that is orientated correctly (and to avoid the risk of it unclipping itself).  From your photos you appear to be clipping from the left with one hand and from the right with the other, but only one gives the correct orientation. Obviously that feels more natural, but I suggest you think about which way the krab should lie in the bolt so that you always clip it correctly regardless of which hand you are using.  As you say, this may require some pre-planning if it is clear from below which hand you may have to use.

The same problem arises with the Ohm (which I have used), but being a larger device it is probably more obvious which way round it should go.