UKC

Was thinking about going for the first time- sounds great and a few mates are going- would be fun to join them. Another friend said he’d heard it was looking a bit tired and the bolts not well maintained from a trip last year. Anyone else have a view on this?

Not true in my experience. There are some neglected crags/routes, and it's perhaps overall not as well kept as somewhere like kalymnos, but the main areas are well maintained. They have a bolt fund and there are freshly equipped routes. In fact, no new routing is allowed as there is plenty there already and all equipment/effort is focused on rebolting. It is a brilliant sport climbing holiday. Cheap, easy to travel to, white sand, clear water, pizza and ice cream and thousands of routes of all grades, including world class steep tufa pulling.

Was there earlier in the year and had a lovely time. Bolts and anchors on the routes we tried were all fine, and there’s been a lot of rebolting in the last few years. 

Some of the older sectors were a bit spicier than I was expecting (eg 11 bolts in a 32m route) but the guidebook lists bolt numbers so you can pick your poison there. Orange wall on the Scogliera Di Salinella - North was newly bolted and had a bunch of fantastic midgrade, well protected routes on it. 

I'd echo what others have said about it being a great destination, based on visiting at the very end of October last year. The only caveat I'd add is that we didn't find many crags that get much shade beyond the morning, at least at the easy-to-mid grades we were after, so I'd definitely recommend going at a time of year when climbing in the sun is enjoyable. Even at the end of October it was way too hot to climb much in the sun. If I went back, I'd definitely choose a cooler time of year. Though having said that, it did enforce a nice leisurely schedule of a few hours climbing in the morning followed by relaxing afternoons on the beach.

Me and Dom were there last Jan/Feb.  It certainly didn't seem 'tired'.  There was very little polish except at the sectors right next to the campsite and there are loads of other sectors to go at.  It also seemed very well bolted to us.

Browse Dom's blog if you want a bit more inspiration.  We also enjoyed exploring the SE of the island - the grades are a lot stiffer but you'll mostly have the crags to yourselves.

However as Luke90 says, we were comfortably warm in the sun in Jan/Feb so it might be pretty hot at other times.

You beat me to it! Here's a two-part San Vito summary:

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2025/02/16/san-vito-lo-capo-scogliera-di-s...

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2025/02/17/san-vito-lo-capo-scogliera-di-s...

Cheers, Dom 

Was there circa 21st October. The Crags are great. Bolts felt fine. The on thing I regretted was going so early in the year. There isn't much shade to be had and a lot of the crags are exposed to the sun. 

My main reservation is that basically the crags all face the same direction so the view does not change. Like Strange Edge by the sea.

In eg Kalymnos you have different aspects.

Nuova Ossessione and Rocca Perciata stay in the shade most of the day.