UKC

8b+ solo

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 jwi 06 May 2004
According to german klettern-magazine Alex Huber just soloed "Kommunist" an 8b+ at Schleier Wasserfall.
Dom Orsler 06 May 2004
In reply to jwi:

That is simply stunning. A 14a solo. I look forward to more details and to being amused by people on this forum belittling the accomplishment because it wasn't done at Gogarth or Curbar, etc.
Removed User 06 May 2004
In reply to jwi:

Yeah,

Heard the route's a bit soft touch for the grade, he had four crash pads beneath him, all the hard moves are at the bottom, he top roped it first, he was using pof, he takes steroids.....
Anonymous 06 May 2004
In reply to jwi:
how high is it?
Anonymous 06 May 2004
In reply to Anonymous: three feet two inches
 Big Steve 06 May 2004
In reply to jwi: was he using chalk? chalk takes at least 12 grades of, therefore if he had a chalk bag on him, he only did a 4a. Anybody could do that
Björn 07 May 2004
Full story on 8a.nu.
bakes 07 May 2004
In reply to Big Steve:

you guys are shits, i know your comments are attempts at humour, but if old alex read this stuff he'd be hurt. Get on with climbing your pathetic brittish 6b problems and stop belittling major accomplishments.
 Fiend 07 May 2004
In reply to bakes:

Laff, we caught one already, well done guys.

P.S. Dom, bit of a pessimistic view you have, I'd have hoped that any genuine poster on here (i.e. not the lame anonymous trolls) would give praise where praise is due and criticism where criticism is due...

Then again I often hope far too much...
 Fiend 07 May 2004
In reply to jwi:

Story at 8a.nu is really quite good...

20th of April. Already at 8 a.m. I am there. I am alone and I wanted to be alone. Nobody should disturb me and I didn't want to disturb anybody else with my ascent.

Well done Alex, sounds not only totally hardcore (i.e. crux at 10m above blocks, no pads), but also as if it was approached in a very good spirit.

No bitching here =) Apart from the lack of photos.
Ady Short 07 May 2004
In reply to Fiend:

"didn't want to disturb anybody else with my ascent"

that's a misprint it should read accent!
 Graham Taylor 07 May 2004
In reply to Fiend:
I like the bit where he down climbs the 5.10d.
The bloke is an amazing climber.
Well done
James Jackson 07 May 2004
In reply to Graham Taylor:

Yeah, I noticed that! 5.10d is what, E3/4ish? Excellent stuff, and credit is most definitely due. Is this the hardest sports route soloed to date?
 Tom Briggs 07 May 2004
In reply to James Jackson:

Didn't Alain Robert solo an 8b years ago at Orgon??(remember article in Mountain). Never heard of an 8b+ solo though.
anony 07 May 2004
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor: seans roof - mark leach, years ago.
 Fiend 07 May 2004
In reply to anony:

Highball V8+. Or something.
Anonymous 07 May 2004
In reply to anony: thats a boulder problem. anyting that can be bolted by standing on a car roof isn't high enough to be considered a real solo.
Peter Walker 07 May 2004
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor: Hasn't Daniel Andrada soloed a Rouhling route at Eaux Claires? Karmi, 8c+. Dunno how high that is though.
Peter Walker 07 May 2004
In reply to Peter Walker: Actually, it's Archipel, 8c+, now I check.
jase 07 May 2004
In reply to Fiend: jason kehl - the fly,9a
 BelleVedere 07 May 2004
In reply to bakes:
> (In reply to Big Steve)
>
> you guys are shits, i know your comments are attempts at humour, but if old alex read this stuff he'd be hurt. Get on with climbing your pathetic brittish 6b problems and stop belittling major accomplishments.


Hes not that old - and from what i have seen has a sense of humor...

Anyway we all thought they were the mutts nuts
Peter Walker 07 May 2004
In reply to jase:
> (In reply to Fiend) jason kehl - the fly,9a

Which he did as a boulder problem, so not really the same thing.
nickr 07 May 2004
No denying an amazing ascent by Alex, but didn't Antoine Le Menestrel solo Revelations back in something like 84/85?



Björn 07 May 2004
We (8a.nu) have a picture of the ascent. It will be up shortly.
 ickleiz 11 May 2004
In reply to bakes:

you guys are shits, i know your comments are attempts at humour, but if old alex read this stuff he'd be hurt. Get on with climbing your pathetic brittish 6b problems and stop belittling major accomplishments

Does he come on this site!!! He is an amazing climber and hes gorgeous!! lucky man!
Dom Orsler 11 May 2004
In reply to Fiend:

A bit pessimistic...? Perhaps, but then, I've been using this forum far too long. That said, like you, I often hope for too much.

I suppose I was attempting to pre-empt what I was worried of and thus keep 'da haters' away.
 Jus 12 May 2004
In reply to jwi:

An excellent little story by Alex on 8a.nu.

An amazing effort.
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