In reply to Jonno: To inform people about what happened and hopefully help prevent accidents, I am writing this account as someone who saw it happen from very close quarters.
Sonia Brentley and I were on the halfway stance of Sabre Cut, and Sonia was preparing to lead the second pitch. John, Tom's climbing partner joined us at the stance. I am told Tom had led Memory Lane, E3, and John had been unable to follow so he soloed along Spiral Stairs to the base of their next climb, Foil, E3. Tom had abseiled on 2 ropes down Memory Lane to retrieve his gear but suffering a rope jam had been unable to pull his ropes down and had soloed to the top of the crag to pull his ropes up. The 3 of us looked up Foil to see Tom abseiling very fast down one doubled rope, one end of which was a long way above the stance and was not knotted. We shouted warnings to him but he appeared just to go off the end of the one end. He fell the length of the crag then tumbled a long way down the steep scree. With the assistance of Glenda Huxter, who climbed up to join us on the ledge, we all retreated from the crag.
The strange twist to this sad tale is that the doctor who went to Tom, having only been in the Pass to climb, found that both ends of the rope were both through the belay device still, one end only being about a metre away from passing through the device! It appears to me that his anchor may have given way just as he was coming to the end of his rope.
Anyway, I would like to pass on my best wishes and condolences to all of Tom's friends and family, especially John, Cat and Rob, who were at the crag at the time.