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climbing holds advice

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 aksys 28 Nov 2020

We're building a small cellar wall for our 12 year old son. 8ft x 4ft, overhanging 30 degrees. He's got keen on climbing this last year, leading about 6b outside.

Just wondering whether anyone can recommend any makes of holds? We've been looking at starter packs by Holdz, Beacon, Custom Holds and Metolius (think this one is out because they don't use UK size M10 bolts).  Trying to get a balance between not spending too much at this stage, but getting better than the the sort of cheap climbing holds you see on playground walls. The wall is for him to have fun climbing on (and burn off energy on over the winter/lockdown.....) 

Any advice gratefully received, thanks.

 Jezzer 28 Nov 2020
In reply to aksys:

I built a home wall this summer including an 8' x 4' panel at 30° with a wide kicker underneath.

I bought a mix of holds. As I have panels at different angles I can shuffle around different types/styles. New ones from Holdz (mixed seconds) Custom and Alienholds - all of those makes have worked out well. Also several used batches from eBay/Gumtree/Facebook which have saved me lots of money.

If it is only 8 ft hig, you may want sit starts to make full use of the height. So think about how to do that without making too many easy footholds 

 will_mcmahon 28 Nov 2020
In reply to aksys:

I have previously found Euroholds to be quite good value for money, however I'm not sure how long they will take to arrive given the current circumstances. 

OP aksys 28 Nov 2020
In reply to Jezzer:

Thanks, we’ll have a look at Alienholds and ebay/Gumtree. Will definitely use sit starts to make use of  the limited  height. 

OP aksys 28 Nov 2020
In reply to will_mcmahon:

Great thanks, another one to look at. Will investigate.....

 George_Surf 28 Nov 2020
In reply to aksys:

We made quite a big order with Holdz. They’re very good value for money although personally I would probably say stick to the most simple shapes possible. The mini jugs and edges are ok. Although the ripplez packs are varied, they’re actually quite awkward to hold. Still, it all depends what you’re after! There’s pockets and pinches in there, but to be honest they’d be better being not ripply! You end op landing them wrong. Building some small volumes will help you get the most out of the small holds. If you’re climbing up to F7a / f6c you’ll probably want some pretty decent holds on there. I would really recommend buying 20 or so (maybe more) of the simple small foot holds. They’re like £1 each or something and good for footwork! One colour if you can! 

OP aksys 28 Nov 2020
In reply to George_Surf:

Thanks, that’s really useful to get someone’s thoughts on Holdz. Probably best for us to stick to the jugs and edges. Like the footwork thoughts too - will have a closer look at the ones you’ve suggested. Hadn’t thought of adding volumes but that could be interesting. 

 douwe 28 Nov 2020
In reply to aksys:

+1 for Euroholds.

We bought some sets for our home wall. Found them surprisingly good quality and very good value for the money.

I've made a bunch of wooden holds myself. Depending on your DIY skills this can be a fun and rewarding process. Wood also saves your skin.

If I was based in the UK ( and didn't have the workshop and enthousiasm for making holds myself) I would probably take a look at strongholds.co.uk for a set of woodholds.

Post edited at 18:09
OP aksys 28 Nov 2020
In reply to douwe:

Thank you, all useful. I’ll look at strongholds, not come across them, but might have a go at making a wooden hold or two and see how we get on. 

 Sean_J 30 Nov 2020
In reply to aksys:

> We're building a small cellar wall for our 12 year old son, 8ft x 4ft

Wow. He's a big lad then!

Post edited at 10:42
 ianstevens 30 Nov 2020
In reply to aksys:

I'd actually eschew all the above, mainly resin holds and get some wood ones from a UK supplier. Wood holds are far nicer to use on the skin, look nicer and age better than resin holds. They end to be screw-in rather than bolt on so you don't need to faff about with t-nuts either. The downside is that they are more expensive...

If you go down this route, worth looking up HardWood, Beastmaker, Silly Goat, Trueholds, Taylor Made Holds, and I'm sure there re many more.

 gravy 30 Nov 2020
In reply to douwe:

You don't have to go overboard when making wooden holds. Cut up your scrap into vaguely interesting shapes, round the corners and edges a bit, sand to reduce the splinters and screw them directly to the wall.

If you've used cheap ply to build the panels, this often delaminates and splinters when uses as holds but painting first with dilute PVC makes them pretty solid. Stack and arrange them to make more complex shapes.

If you've disposed of your off-cuts get around to a local joiners and ask for a bag of off-cuts - you'll get a lifetime supply of hardwood holds for a fiver.

You can also texture them - I use smear of cement based tile adhesive for a fine grit texture (cheaper and easier than anything else including sand+glue).

OP aksys 30 Nov 2020
In reply to ianstevens:

Thanks, I looked at the strongholds last night, things of crafted beauty. Realistically we’ll probably end up with a mix, but will aim to make some of our own.

OP aksys 30 Nov 2020
In reply to gravy:

Good advice thanks. Think we will have a go at making some of our own and l’ll try and get our lad involved. His dad is quite handy with woodworking and volunteers in the local forest where he’s helping set up a community woodworking shed - sure he can get some offcuts. 

Thanks to everyone who’s posted advice, very grateful.

 BenSends 30 Nov 2020
In reply to aksys:

So jealous of all you lot with your own training boards

OP aksys 30 Nov 2020
In reply to BenSends:

Well it’s taken me 25 years or more to persuade the other half to build one down our cellar and it’s only because our lad is trying climb everywhere he can round the house! There’s time yet!  


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