UKC

To the training guru's out there!


Have been doing some fingerboard work as a suppliment to my training and have been following Horst's recommendation for strength training using repeaters.....very short very intense hangs, failing at 3-6 seconds and 5 seconds rest between the hangs x 5 or more as one set.

Recently heard that it is more beneficial (for strength training) to hang for longer duration, one source swears by hangs looking to fail at 10/12 seconds.....and another stated that 25/30 seconds was the way to go!

What works for you?.....anyone got any evidence/science for what works best?

cheers
R.

In reply to Russell Birkett:
anyone got any evidence/science for what works best?

No, but apparently, Steve Dunning reckons 30 secs. Ru commented on UKB about some evidence supporting this.

HD.

In reply to hugedyno: it depends if your looking to improve stamina or maximum strength..many long ones for stamina(eg. 10 reps of 20sec hangs and 40 secs rest, up to 20 reps, then back down to 10 and increase hang time and shorten rest, i.e always 60 secs each rep, then more reps etc.) of and many ones short for max power (5 reps of 3 secs rest again, you know the drill, start adding weight when it gets too easy etc). :0 obviously its a bit more complicated then that, almost at least but thats the main jist of it.

get Eric J Horts training for climbing, has some good tips, or go to http://www.trainingforclimbing.com/ has some stuff as well on the subject.

In reply to Russell Birkett: sorry didnt notice that you mentioned horst, never mind that, but it does depend on what you want to train..

In reply to timo.t:

Thanks for you reply's
So we've got Steve Dunning saying 25/30 sec's is the way to go.....and Horst recommending 3/6 sec's.
Quite a difference there considering it is Strength not endurance we're looking at training, and traditionaly this has always been very short duration hangs at maximum load?

What are your views on this? Can 30 second hangs train strength?

In reply to Russell Birkett:
Spend more time on longer reps.

In reply to timo.t:

There has been some research that suggests 4 x 30 second contractions at around 80-90% 1rm with 60s rest in between is best for isometric hypertrophy training (in reality I've found that it's very hard holding 80% 1rm for 30s). I would imagine that this would translate to hangs. Short 3s hangs at near max will train recruitment. Depends where in a cycle you are.

Personally I think that the traditional climbing view of training "power" "power endurance" and "endurance" has misled me for years.

In reply to Castor: If you've already got reasonably large diameter muscles, will you benefit more with regards to power/weight ratio, by only training for very short duration at maximum load? (I can currently hang the small rungs on the campus board for about 25 secs with no added weight)

I'm not actually training just now, but once I've sorted all my injuries and muscle imbalances out I'll be back on it!

In reply to Russell Birkett: Mine's been hanging well for 55 years and I hope it continues to do so

In reply to Castor:

how come? just too simplistic?

In reply to Dave Stelmach:
Well, you being 55 i guess thats all it can do.

In reply to Castor:
Thanks for that....i'll try that out this winter. Maybe a phase of Hypertrophy with longer hangs (80% of max) and a phase of recruitment with shorter (90/100% of max) hangs?

In reply to Alasdair Fulton:

Power/weight ratio isn't a factor with the forearms; the muscle mass is tiny.

In reply to Russell Birkett: ive been hanging on for about 90 seconds ... just want to be able to hold on for longer so thought that was a good way to practice on my nogging.

May do shorter ones now though.

Dave

In reply to Serpico: That's a good point, how about with the biceps, lats etc. etc.?

In reply to Alasdair Fulton:
Again, not big muscle mass, and unless you start doing masses of reps and necking raw eggs (and steroids) they're unlikely to be a problem for most climbers. Whether big biceps and lats are of much benefit will depend on the sort of climbing you do.