UKC

Fingerboard terminology- help!

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 spidermonkey09 30 Apr 2014
Been using the Beastmaker app for a while, nothing very difficult as still can't complete the 5a one all the way through, but had a flick through the others today and don't know what its talking about.

So: what is the difference between:
a) open hand
b) chisel
c) half crimp- no thumb involved.

All of these seem pretty much the same to me!

A google didn't help me but if I've just been blind feel free to link
 Kevster 30 Apr 2014
In reply to spidermonkey09:

http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/pages/training

scroll down a bit
In reply to Kevster:

Cheers, still don't get the difference really though as all those photos are taken on different holds! Whats the chisel doing differently to a standard open hand?
 Dandan 30 Apr 2014
In reply to spidermonkey09:

I think a chisel is when you kind of bend the tips of your fingers outward at the first knuckle so you get a larger contact with your tips on the hold but you still get that nice bent main knuckle for strength, it's a bit of a weird one to be honest.
If I pull half crimp on a small enough hold it will tend to pull my fingers into a chisel anyway so you don't get much choice.

(I might be wrong by the way but that's my interpretation)

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...