UKC

Not sure if this was what I had, but I was on a route the other day and my hands started closing of their own accord. I was half way up a route and a bit pumped when the middle finger on one hand started pulling down towards the wrist (kind of like spiderman firing a web!) It happened when I was trying to select some gear on my harness and I could only use my hand after I had forced it back open against my leg. It kept doing it after this. Not long after the other hand started doing it too. This got me a bit gripped to say the least.

Any idea what this is and how to prevent it?

In reply to mel holmes:

It's happened to me once, about 20 feet from the top of Suspense at Lawrencefield. I've no idea why, and it's not happened again, but it's really hard trying to climb a thin crack with fingers sticking out all over the place!

In reply to mel holmes:
This happened just the other day, exactly the same as you described; and it's also happened a few times in the past. It generally happens to me at the end of a day or long route, after I've done several pitches at my limit. I agree that it's very scary (especially if you're high on an overhanging wall with no way of abseil retreat!)

There are several causes for cramp, so googling "cramp" will give you as good advice as any. But the general recommendations are to avoid dehydration, make sure you have plenty of potassium (bananas), and warm up properly.

Even so - the last time it happened to me I had followed all of this advice, sometimes it just happens when a muscle is really tired.

In reply to mel holmes:

I'd just like to clarify that, if it is cramp, it is your forearm muscles cramping. You don't have any muscles in your hands controlling your fingers, only tendons which connect to your forearm where there is more space. You probably already know this, but I thought I'd mention it just in case.

With any cramp, stretching helps. Forcing it back opening like you did should in theory stretch the affected muscles. Stretching beforehand can prevent or delay the onset and stretching during a cramp can release it and help the muscles recover.

I sometimes suffer from cramps in my legs, usually from dehydration on a hot day when I can't drink enough. I find taking rehydration sachet really helps. I don't know if this would help with arm cramp or not. They are really light to carry, assuming you already have water with you.

On another note, I have a friend you started waking up his hands/arms cramped, which he then has to pry open. I think he was advised to put an elastic band around his fingers and keep opening and closing his hand to work the muscle imbalance that had built up from too much bouldering. The exercise is, in effect, working the opposite of grip strength. Again, I have no idea if this would help in your case or indeed if it will help him.

Mehmet

In reply to mel holmes: http://www.dupuytren-online.info/images/Dupuytren_stage2b.JPG

early sign?

In reply to konrad7:
Dupuytren's contracture is slow-onset disease that permanently contracts the tendon, which physically prevents the fingers from being straightened *ever*. It doesn't sound much like the OP's problem.

In reply to mel holmes: I get this, generally when I my hands are slightly cold and I am tired. I think stopping climbing until warm and rested is the only way of preventing it!

In reply to Mehmet Karatay:

You're right that the usual crimp / open hand finger movements are operated from the forearms, but there are accessory muscles in the hand (useful for slopers) and I think it's these that get cramp sometimes.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lumbricals_of_the_hand
...sorry it's wikipedia but it's a good picture...

...and the muscles do this...
youtube.com/watch?v=xdf0Y-79NRI&

Thanks for the replies everyone.

I'd warmed up properly and done some stretching - It could have been dehydration perhaps. The more panicked I got from loosing control of my hand - the worse it seemed to get until both hands went. I guess this could have been a self fullfilling prophecy from gripping too hard once I'd got in this state. A bit of a downward spiral really.

I entertained the thought briefly that it was my subconscious taking over and refusing me the right to control my own hands (You shouldn't be here, it's daft and dangerous and I'M taking over now so you'll have to ab back down to safety). Like the first world war soldiers who lost control of their trigger fingers from shell shock.

On reflection, I suppose it was just cramp and I'm obviously not eating enough bananas