UKC

I'm in the fortunate position that I have a stretch of time (c9 months) and an unusually settled lifestyle to devote to hangboarding. I'm five weeks into a course of max hangs (based on Eva Lopez's work).

Of course, I forgot to test myself at the start in order to track progress. I'm going to remedy that now. Question is, what is a good way to measure improvement?

Max time on certain holds? (I'm training four different holds at present)

Max weight for a set time on certain holds?

Some other combo I don't know about?

Current plan is to finish the next four weeks of max hangs, followed by a re-test, then launch into another cycle after a week of rest. Repeat, throwing in some endurance cycles, till my eight months or so are over and I can access some rock

For strength benchmarking normal practice is to measure the max weight you can hang on a 20mm edge for 7 seconds (around 7 anyway, some people suggest 5 or 10 sec).

As above 20mm Edge seems to standard and you can also compare yourself to others (not always a good idea). Id also suggest test the three main grip positions - full crimp, strict half crimp and drag. I tend to go for 10secs and that’s the time Lopez based her initial studies on. If you are training endurance then see how long you can hang the edge for too.

Grand, thanks for the advice.