UKC

Huddersfield Climbing Wall Lower Offs (or lack of)

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 Tenko 26 Nov 2009
Do you realise that the climbing wall at Huddersfield has routes equipped for lead climbing (with bolts) but some routes do not have krabs at the top for lower off. The centres view is that you should take a cows tail and thread thru as per sport climbing outdoors (although this is not communicated when you register) and that if you can't do this then you should learn how to prior to doing any more lead climbing! Please be aware of this situation. I am sure that there will be some comments and feedback. BTW I am a very experienced climber indoors and out, sport and trad summer and winter and am fully aware of the necessary techniques.
 EZ 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Tenko:

It doesn't sound very clever to me. I can't see that there is a major cost to supplying a crab or two at the top of routes. It's not like they need replacing every month (or do they??)
 huddschris 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Tenko: Its not ideal, but neither is it exactly a huge annoyance either. There are bolts in the wall of the back room to practice on if you've never done it before.
 gethin_allen 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Tenko:
sounds like they are just asking for people to lower off from their last draw that will wear out a lot quicker than a fat steel crab at the top.
Also surely this will mean each route will take longer so the climbers get less climbing done and the routes are congested at busy times.
Not very smart IMO.
OP Tenko 26 Nov 2009
In reply to EZ: Hi EZ, you are quite right but you should have seen the insulting letter I received when I pointed it out on the official feedback form. I believe that it does represent a potential safety risk especially to those who have not got a lot of experience which is why I have brought it to the attention of the UKC forum.
OP Tenko 26 Nov 2009
In reply to huddschris: I dont need to practice but I am not aware of this situation at any other climbing wall. I know some inexperienced climbers who would not know what to do in this situation - it is these guys and gals who I am concerned about.
 huddschris 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Tenko: I have plenty of problems with the running of the Hudds wall, but this issue doesn't really worry me too much. All the lines have insitu top ropes already so you'll only be leading if you want to practice leading techniques, rethreading being one of them. Worst case: you clip the top with a draw and then nip up an easy line on a toprope to get it back.

I'd rather they did something about the lack of facilities for people climbing above 6c... *grumble grumble*
OP Tenko 26 Nov 2009
In reply to huddschris: Cheers for the feedback, interesting that yo have had issues with thr wall management. I must admit that I was real shocked to find out there was no krab to clip into at the top after pulling up over an o/h at 6a with tired arms. I did have a spare quick draw which saved the day. Its more about awareness to other especially those with less experience.
 huddschris 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Tenko: I'd certainly be in favor of suggesting a notice under the routes board warning people at least!
OP Tenko 26 Nov 2009
In reply to huddschris: I understand that this is being done.
 Southern Bell 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Tenko:
I am sure there was a thread on here recently complaining about sterility of indoor routes, it's not the same as outdoor etc ...... We do not need signs warning numbties what to do at the top of a route, they and their second should not be leading without considering what to do at the top. It's the outdoor experience inside isn't it?

 gethin_allen 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Tenko: so do you have to use your own quickdraws for leading at this wall?
 huddschris 26 Nov 2009
In reply to gethin_allen: Yup you do
OP Tenko 26 Nov 2009
In reply to major stabby: Yes it is but there are certain expectations.
 KateG 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Tenko:
Why not just fall off from the top every time?! Gets you used to falling!
Kate
GeoffF 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Tenko: I think we have been some rather hysterical reactions here.

At Huddersfield, every line is top roped. There are bolts on most lines, but with the exception of a few lines which have to be clipped (overhangs in a corner), there are no fixed quick draws - you have to bring your own - and many, but not all, lines do not have fixed lower off karabiners.

If you do not want to be bothered with rethreading the belay, or did not bring the necessary gear, you can lower off from your partner’s screw gate and use the top rope top retrieve it.

Huddersfield has only 20 lines, so this is an eminently sensible arrangement. It pleases most of the people most of the time, which is all that can be expected!
 carl dawson 27 Nov 2009
Slightly off-topic but I'm resetting all the holds on the bouldering wall tomorrow(Saturday), so expect some new circuits shortly. Any requests?

Carl
 huddschris 27 Nov 2009
In reply to carl dawson: Something about equivalent to the current brown circuit would be good, almost had that one done
 pog100 27 Nov 2009
In reply to carl dawson:

and something a bit easier, like the A-AA route from a few months ago? Cheers!
 Southern Bell 27 Nov 2009
In reply to carl dawson:

Something with a mantle in it! um crap at them and need some practice. Also if possible some more routes on the rest of wall, it gets congested on the wall on the left and the rest seems un touched. But don't forget the mantle, or even a rock over!

Ta
 NorthernRock 27 Nov 2009
In reply to Tenko:

Not having climbed at Hudds for years now, but.

It does seem a little daft.

Ok take an extra 2 draws for the top, but that is not the usual indoor MO, so why do they do it?

It certainly will slow down route climbing, say by a couple of minutes per threading, doesnt seem much, but I bet you notice it.

But why not....use the top rope anchor, dropping the top rope. ha ha, theyll soon get fed up of all the top ropes in a heap at the bottom of the wall.

Maybe see the other forum "Slings", which seems to suggest most indoor trained wall rats now have an affectation of a cows tail!
GeoffF 27 Nov 2009
In reply to NorthernRock: The problem here is that if they put screw gates at the top of each line, on an unsupervised wall, people would walk off with them. If I remember rightly, the screw gates on the newer part of the wall cannot easily be removed, but I expect that they were installed by the manufacturer. There is not much leading done at Huddersfield anyway.
 NorthernRock 27 Nov 2009
In reply to GeoffF:

You can get the "captive" screwgates that cannot be removed by unscrewing!
 pacman 27 Nov 2009
In reply to Tenko:

I suspect Richard's never put up quick n easy lower-offs because the room is quite small for the number of panels/routes, the floor sometimes gets crowded, and so he doesn't really want to encourage peope to lead there. Several times I've seen him asking people (very politely and quite reasonably) not to lead until later in the evening when it's quitened off a bit.

As a previous poster has said all lines are equipped with top ropes so there isn't any need to lead there anyway. However...

Those who have a set of clips with them and know what they're doing, i.e. can get themselves and their gear both up and down safely, can still lead there if they really want to.

Those who don't know how to look after themselves (and who are not there with someone suitably experienced or qualified) have no place leading at Huddersfield. I fully support the centre's view that if you can't take care of yourself then you should learn how to prior to doing any more lead climbing at their wall.

The leading facilities at Huddersfield are limited and inconvenient (so I do my indoor leading at several other walls in the area) but that does not make them unsafe.
Camdaz 27 Nov 2009
In reply to Tenko: How much is it to get in ???
 carl dawson 27 Nov 2009
In reply to wilton warrior:

£5.20 ish normally.

Carl
Camdaz 27 Nov 2009
In reply to carl dawson: how many lead routes do you have,
Removed User 27 Nov 2009
In reply to wilton warrior:

There are 20 lines.

My 2p worth - I don't think Huddersfield is quite like the more 'modern' sort of dedicated climbing centre. It's a dedicated space within a leisure centre that's earmarked for being torn down and rebuilt. Anyone trying to liken it to somewhere like Rochdale or Leeds is going to be disappointed. And that floor has always seemed far too... er... ungiving to tempt me to lead there.

Oh, and it's £5.40 in the evening.

Camdaz 27 Nov 2009
In reply to Removed User: I pass huddersfield regularly going through to sis inlaws in leeds, didn't no there was a wall there, will call in next time im over just like to see different places, cheers
 JSA 27 Nov 2009
In reply to carl dawson:

Do you know if they'll be selling off the panels when/if they come to demolish the centre?
GeoffF 27 Nov 2009
In reply to acgs: You may be right, it may be possible to fit captive screw gates to the existing hardware at relatively little cost, and Richard be trying to discourage too much peak time lead climbing, particularly by leaders who do not know what they are doing. Space is limited at Huddersfield, and the lines are very close together, and piles of rope are not convenient when the wall is crowded, and neither is tying off the top rope on the next line. However, Richard did organise lead climbing training for our group with Rick at peak time, so considerate leaders who know what they are doing are OK.

Huddersfield never can be ideal for leading. There is not only no shock absorbing flooring but there is also not enough space. The wall has to be popular with the main population of local climbers: top ropers from F6a to F6c. With just 20 lines, that leaves thin pickings for beginners, experts and people who only want to lead.
 Yanis Nayu 27 Nov 2009
In reply to Tenko: I think you raise a valid point.
 pacman 28 Nov 2009
In reply to GeoffF and TallClare:

Why do you feel the need for shock absorbing flooring below the leading wall? If you're worried about hitting the floor coming off an indoor leading wall then you and/or your belayer are doing something very badly wrong.

Not meaning to have a go at either of you here, just don't understand your thinking, how anyone could consider it okay to deck from a route just because there's a rubber floor at the bottom.

If concerned about coming off before the first clip or whilst clipping the second, suggest you just use any old holds (including quickdraws if needs be) to preclip the first one or two, then come back to the floor and start your route proper.
Removed User 28 Nov 2009
In reply to acgs:

Hah, it's not a particularly serious comment. More of an observation. Huddersfield is all about retro-chic.
 sandy 28 Nov 2009
In reply to acgs: Even using all of the holds sometimes slips happen, and with a solid floor that can hurt (climbing shoes provide very little protection)! Before the matting was installed at Leeds there were a number of broken heel injuries caused by slips from only a few feet (sometimes only a few inches), since it has been installed there are been none. So yes there probably is a reason to be concerned...

Andy
 carl dawson 28 Nov 2009
In reply to major stabby:

Finding a mantel could be tricky! I don't thing there an are any blobs big enough. As far the rockovers, we'll see what we can do!

So, as of today, virtually all the holds on the bouldering wall have been relocated, or 'twirled' to give something new. I think you'll find it surprisingly revitalised. I've tried to change the holds on the vertical(ish) wall to give a more sustained feel but, in compensation, put bigger holds on the really steep parts. I'l start putting up a variety of circuits next week.

Thanks to Richard, Tom and Kasha for helping out; it took five very grubby hours wobbling on ladders, inhaling all the dirt, chalk, rubber, dried sweat and human skin that you'd left in the crack behind every hold.

Carl
 grubes 28 Nov 2009
In reply to carl dawson:
> (In reply to major stabby)
> So, as of today, virtually all the holds on the bouldering wall have been relocated, or 'twirled' to give something new.
> Carl
Excellent work Carl
Thanks very much
I look forward to Monday night to give it a try
GeoffF 28 Nov 2009
In reply to acgs: Shock absorbing flooring does reduce the likelihood of injury in practice. Yes, people could and perhaps should pre-clip if there is any chance of them falling off, but they do not. The Huddersfield walls are not high - six quick draws at most - and if you pre-place and pre-clip the first two, to be on the safe side, you not get much leading practice!

It is also worth noting that Huddersfield routes are not always set with leading in mind. There are often difficult moves near the bottom, and clips which are very difficult for the grade. This all is fair enough, provided that you understand that you are leading a top rope route, and take the appropriate precautions. Huddersfield is not Leeds or Stockport and never can be, but it is still an excellent wall in its own terms.
 Alex Thompson 29 Nov 2009
In reply to carl dawson:
Sterling work guys! Looking forward to checking it on tomorrow evening.

Is there not a regular/proper cleaning regime to remove all the dust & remains that gather round the bouldering section (the amount of dirt that gathers at the foot of the walls suggests not)...?
Removed User 30 Nov 2009
In reply to Alex Thompson: Well considering the fact that volunteers (good effort you lot) had to come in and change the bloody holds after 3 years regardless of the number of £5.40s they spend a week, I would suggest the lack of cleaning should come as no surprise.

Anyway, here's to a winter of new and exciting problems/circuits. I bring tape down on Weds...
 Jamie B 30 Nov 2009
In reply to GeoffF:

I'm confused; if all the routes are set up with top-ropes, what happens to said ropes when someone wants to lead something? And how do they get put back?
Removed User 30 Nov 2009
In reply to Jamie Bankhead: Tie them off to a sandbag or drape them over a jug on an adjacent route. Basically leading is frowned upon at Hudd so anything to make it more convenient also out.
 Jamie B 30 Nov 2009
In reply to Removed User:

Still confused; does that not mean that the top-rope is still running through the same lower-off that the leader will have to thread? Doesnt sound very safe..
 pog100 30 Nov 2009
In reply to Jamie Bankhead:

the top ropes have pullies, each also has a screwgate or two.
OP Tenko 30 Nov 2009
In reply to ALL ABOVE: Thanks for all yor comments and feedback guys. I am still confused tho.
The routes are set up for leading with bolts, which in itself encourages leading. Yet there are comments (several) above that indicate clearly that leading is discouraged at this wall. This was not communicated at all at the point of registration.
I maintain that if a route has been set up for leading (with bolts) that there are expected minimum standards that are common in other walls, namely:
1) that there are lower offs provided or
2) that the bolts are removed unless the routes are set up to the expected minimum standard in line witht he customers expectation
3) that there are signs and that the staff are properly educated to communicate the above.
Removed User 30 Nov 2009
In reply to Tenko: Look dude. At the end of the day there are lower offs provided, you just need to thread them yourself.
 dunnyg 30 Nov 2009
In reply to Removed User: Is there usually a decent huddersfield group during the xmas holidays on a wednesday? (ie you, alex thompson etc.) Its been a while since I went, and its easy to get to when I'm home.
 Southern Bell 30 Nov 2009
In reply to Tenko:

The BMC Participation Statement say that: The BMC recognises that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions.
GeoffF 30 Nov 2009
In reply to Tenko: As I said, the new part of the wall has screw gates fitted for lowering off, but the old part does not. On the old part, each line has a chain supporting a large maillon with a pulley attached to it. The top rope is thread through the pulley. You are not allowed to remove the top rope. When lead climbing, to lower off, you thread the lead climbing rope through the maillon, so that it rests on top of the pulley. The rope does not appear to be harmed by rubbing against the pulley.

In answer to Tenko’s points:

(1). Lower offs are provided, but you need to thread them for the majority of lines.
(2). There is no customer expectation for fitted quick draws, easy lower offs or shock absorbent flooring at Huddersfield. The wall has always been like that. It is due to be replaced in a couple of years, and the Council is not going to spend any more money on it than it has to. We would be very unhappy if the bolts were taken down, because we want to lead climb there.
(3). Its an unsupervised wall, and the Sports Centre reception staff know nothing at all about climbing.

The hard floor is an obvious risk. The absence of quick draws makes it obvious that Huddersfield lines are different from most of the lead climbing lines at the big walls. You are responsible for your own safety. If you are daft enough to lead climb without checking out the route out first, do not carry enough gear to cope with all eventualities, and are shocked to find that you have to thread the lower off, you can always climb down or lower off the last quick draw.

Lead climbing is not discouraged at Huddersfield. The Sports Centre will even train you to lead climb. Lead climbing when the wall is crowded is, however, unreasonable and is discouraged. In the evenings, most people top rope until 9 p.m.
Camdaz 30 Nov 2009
In reply to GeoffF: I personaly like the sounds of the set up, cant wait to come across like bringing the outside in, theres nothing better than the good old pump at the top when ur trying to set yourself up for the lower, i get bored at some walls with getting to the top and clip! clip! down, keep the adventure alive.
 Bulls Crack 30 Nov 2009
In reply to Tenko:

I've never bothered leading there - it's too short. It's a top-rope place really.
 Jamie B 30 Nov 2009
In reply to GeoffF:

> On the old part, each line has a chain supporting a large maillon with a pulley attached to it. The top rope is thread through the pulley. You are not allowed to remove the top rope. When lead climbing, to lower off, you thread the lead climbing rope through the maillon, so that it rests on top of the pulley. The rope does not appear to be harmed by rubbing against the pulley.

I'm still struggling to visualise this; do you have access to a photo of a similar set-up?
 Burns 30 Nov 2009
In reply to Removed User:
> (In reply to Tenko) Look dude. At the end of the day there are lower offs provided, you just need to thread them yourself.

This is one of those non-issues isn't it?

Are you guys still down Wednesday nights?
Removed User 30 Nov 2009
In reply to Burns: Yes dude. Regularly. Come down fer a blodder I believe the bouldering wall has been changed!
 grubes 01 Dec 2009
In reply to Removed User:
Richard has now bowed under pressure and there is a warning sign.
He was not appriative of the comment from my mate once he had stuck it up on the wall.

haha

Still my opinion is if you can't rethread you shouldn't be leading anyway
GeoffF 01 Dec 2009
In reply to Jamie Bankhead: I doubt whether many similar set ups exist nowadays. In essence, there is no screw gate for lowering off (screw gate + snap gate = pure luxury), but there is maillon you can thread, and it is big enough for you to clip quick draws and cow's tails to it while you are doing so. The maillon also supports the top rope pulley, but that is besides the point really.
 Alex Thompson 03 Dec 2009
In reply to dunnyg:
Afraid that I mainly climb with the Uni club and there's not a decent climber amongst us...

Other options:
- Huddersfield Climbing Club
- Calderdale Mountaineering Club
- The Vibram Mountaineering Club
 JSA 03 Dec 2009
In reply to GeoffF:
> (In reply to Tenko) As I said, the new part of the wall has screw gates fitted for lowering off, but the old part does not. On the old part, each line has a chain supporting a large maillon with a pulley attached to it. The top rope is thread through the pulley. You are not allowed to remove the top rope. When lead climbing, to lower off, you thread the lead climbing rope through the maillon, so that it rests on top of the pulley. The rope does not appear to be harmed by rubbing against the pulley.
>
> In answer to Tenko’s points:
>
> (1). Lower offs are provided, but you need to thread them for the majority of lines.
> (2). There is no customer expectation for fitted quick draws, easy lower offs or shock absorbent flooring at Huddersfield. The wall has always been like that. It is due to be replaced in a couple of years, and the Council is not going to spend any more money on it than it has to. We would be very unhappy if the bolts were taken down, because we want to lead climb there.
> (3). Its an unsupervised wall, and the Sports Centre reception staff know nothing at all about climbing.
>
> The hard floor is an obvious risk. The absence of quick draws makes it obvious that Huddersfield lines are different from most of the lead climbing lines at the big walls. You are responsible for your own safety. If you are daft enough to lead climb without checking out the route out first, do not carry enough gear to cope with all eventualities, and are shocked to find that you have to thread the lower off, you can always climb down or lower off the last quick draw.
>
> Lead climbing is not discouraged at Huddersfield. The Sports Centre will even train you to lead climb. Lead climbing when the wall is crowded is, however, unreasonable and is discouraged. In the evenings, most people top rope until 9 p.m.

It hasn't always been like that, from opening until the last few years, or until Richard taking over there were always quickdraws and loweroffs in place, as for the hard floor, there were big crash mats that used to be dragged to the bottom of the route if needed.
 dunnyg 03 Dec 2009
In reply to Alex Thompson: Fair does, some climbed better than me last time I was down there. Just wondering if i turn up for a boulder in a week or 2 when Im back home, anyone else will be there.
 Alex Thompson 03 Dec 2009
In reply to dunnyg:
The Uni Club and Huddersfield Climbing Club are there on Wednesday nights (probably the most busy evening of the week).
Check out Carl Dawson's site for contacts of these clubs:
http://www.kirkleesclimbing.co.uk/index.htm

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