In reply to Tenko: As I said, the new part of the wall has screw gates fitted for lowering off, but the old part does not. On the old part, each line has a chain supporting a large maillon with a pulley attached to it. The top rope is thread through the pulley. You are not allowed to remove the top rope. When lead climbing, to lower off, you thread the lead climbing rope through the maillon, so that it rests on top of the pulley. The rope does not appear to be harmed by rubbing against the pulley.
In answer to Tenko’s points:
(1). Lower offs are provided, but you need to thread them for the majority of lines.
(2). There is no customer expectation for fitted quick draws, easy lower offs or shock absorbent flooring at Huddersfield. The wall has always been like that. It is due to be replaced in a couple of years, and the Council is not going to spend any more money on it than it has to. We would be very unhappy if the bolts were taken down, because we want to lead climb there.
(3). Its an unsupervised wall, and the Sports Centre reception staff know nothing at all about climbing.
The hard floor is an obvious risk. The absence of quick draws makes it obvious that Huddersfield lines are different from most of the lead climbing lines at the big walls. You are responsible for your own safety. If you are daft enough to lead climb without checking out the route out first, do not carry enough gear to cope with all eventualities, and are shocked to find that you have to thread the lower off, you can always climb down or lower off the last quick draw.
Lead climbing is not discouraged at Huddersfield. The Sports Centre will even train you to lead climb. Lead climbing when the wall is crowded is, however, unreasonable and is discouraged. In the evenings, most people top rope until 9 p.m.