UKC

Having had 'tweaky elbows' for a couple of decades, I chanced upon a 'diagnosis in a pub' from a personal trainer of having hpermobile elbow joints (which seems to be legit, I can wrap my arm around my head in a way particular to people with hypermobility, and used to suffer from weak/easily twisted ankles in my teens).

Extending my arms out at shoulder height, and extending my fingers can give sensations varying from 'mild ouch' to 'sense of things being stretched'. So far, using my Metolius Grip Saver, therabands in differing pushing away motions, and pulling my fingers back with my other hand to stretch things along the outsides are all proving helpful, and my arms are noticeably stonger and more pain free.

To avoid the dissapointment of my ams becoming gradually stronger and me getting back into climbing, before 'tweaky elbows' becomes a problem, has anybody else with joint hypermobility come across a collection of stretches and arm exercises which mean they can climb without any issues?

Many Ta's.

Edit: The extent of hypermobility seems to amount to me being able to extend my arms out straight like women can do, and I can twist into most yoga positions, but I don't experience any day to day discomfort or issues like those with greater hypermobility. 

Your tweaky elbows could be many things, have you seen a physio?

The key thing with hypermobility is to work on strength and control over a safe range of motion, the kind of work you've been doing with therabands is good, adding actual weight training might be a good idea. Avoid static stretching, for those with hypermobile joints it does nothing except increase the likelihood of injury. 

I have seen a physio, and he wasn't too certain he could anything (it was along time ago), so I've done other things, and gradually forgotten about climbing. 

I've come to think there's a mixture of elements, my fingers can curl inwards when relaxed with my arms hanging down, which has had stretching being suggested, and if I raise a very full bowl of porridge vertically above my head, I can feel some weakness in my left arm at the elbow where the tendons meet the elbow and my shoulder which isn't present in my right arm (the right one is less troubleshome), and I can straighten my arms in a way which indicates hypermobility. 

I'm reckoning exploring doing 'general strengthening' might be a plan, as a way of seeing where any twinges or issues emerge, how the right and left arm compare, which could be the point at which to see a climbing physio.  

From a yoga for climbers teacher...

Totally agree that strengthening and stabilising around your elbow joints is the way to go, rather than developmental (static) stretching.

However it's possible to be hypermobile in some joints but tight in others, so you may still benefit from stretching other parts of your body. 

If you do yoga, focus on stability and control rather than moving as far into each pose as you can. For poses usually done with straight arms (e.g. Downward Dog, High plank and side plank, and even cat-cow) aim to maintain a tiny amount of flexion in your elbows. As well as preventing possible injury through hyperextension it will help strengthen the stabilising muscles crossing your elbow. 

My website has a couple of articles which may be useful:

https://verticalyoga.org/2024/05/29/yoga-basics-stretching-for-flexibility/

https://verticalyoga.org/2024/04/19/yoga-scapular-stability-and-climbers-el...

Yes. I have very flexible joints. I went to see a climber specific physio in Sheffield.

He scanned my elbows to check thete was no actual damage and then worked on increasing strength/conditioning in a way that allowed my elbows to get used to the additional load. Took some time, now climb pain free. Before I used to have to let go and fall off due to elbow pain (mainly on sport climbs, bimbly trad was always fine).

What is the physio called please? They sound ideal.

I have ongoing shoulder/upper back issues and I'm so glad I clicked on your website. 

James Walker. Google him, based at the White house in Sheffield I think.