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Have recently moved to city and have to find somewhere to climb. Went to Mile End wall - what a disappointment! Have been to Westway before and so had high expectations of London walls, but Mile End just didn't seem much of anything at all. In a dodgy area, and looked like it didn't get cleaned much. Hardly any roped routes and the majority just seemed to be holds stuck on blank walls. Not only that but they follow some weird grading system at odds with every other wall I've ever been to, and just stick tags on to mark routes - so you don't follow coloured holds, you follow tags - quite a few of which have fallen out and none of which you can see from above, which rather defeats the purpose...
The staff seemed friendly if a bit aggressive (when I called up to ask what the wall was like, they more or less said it was rubbish but that I should 'have an open mind' - implying that I would be a horrible person not to give it a go... but I'm thinking it was a bit of a waste of a tenner now). Weirdly enough it seemed to be rammed (with people happily bouldering round the 'urban chic' breeze blocks), and there was quite a lot of totty - so perhaps they all know something I don't...
Maybe I've just been spoilt? Is this what non-Westway London walls are like?!
The staff seemed friendly if a bit aggressive (when I called up to ask what the wall was like, they more or less said it was rubbish but that I should 'have an open mind' - implying that I would be a horrible person not to give it a go... but I'm thinking it was a bit of a waste of a tenner now). Weirdly enough it seemed to be rammed (with people happily bouldering round the 'urban chic' breeze blocks), and there was quite a lot of totty - so perhaps they all know something I don't...
Maybe I've just been spoilt? Is this what non-Westway London walls are like?!
In reply to N at work:
I love Mile End. Ok, its crap for roped stuff. But for improving technical ability rather than getting savagly strong, you wont find a wall better in the UK.
The way i would describe Mile End is, its a wall with character.
The tags can be confusing when they differ from the standard green,blue,yellow,orange,pink, but with a little experience you soon learn what difficutly you should come to expect from each colour. (Not great for newbies though)
As for the other comments, the area? Far less dodgy than where the Westway is located!
I love Mile End. Ok, its crap for roped stuff. But for improving technical ability rather than getting savagly strong, you wont find a wall better in the UK.
The way i would describe Mile End is, its a wall with character.
The tags can be confusing when they differ from the standard green,blue,yellow,orange,pink, but with a little experience you soon learn what difficutly you should come to expect from each colour. (Not great for newbies though)
As for the other comments, the area? Far less dodgy than where the Westway is located!
I think you're being a bit harsh. Yes, everyone knows that the roped routes are rubbish, but there is some great bouldering, and the walls outside are bliss in the summer evenings... I agree on the grading system though. It is far too haphazard, and tricky to follow. The way they do it would make setting a lot easier though!
Having said all that, it is not my wall of choice in London. Have you tried the Castle? It does get very busy, but there's some great roped stuff and bouldering, and they are in the middle of a big expansion, putting in a load of new roped routes and bouldering walls. And - it plays music, which is one of the failings of Mile End.
Having said all that, it is not my wall of choice in London. Have you tried the Castle? It does get very busy, but there's some great roped stuff and bouldering, and they are in the middle of a big expansion, putting in a load of new roped routes and bouldering walls. And - it plays music, which is one of the failings of Mile End.
In reply to N at work:
Thanks for your comments. Recently we have started to use single coloured holds (with tags) for boulder problems. It will take some time to change all the routes to this configuration and some money on our part to buy new holds. Mile End is primarily a bouldering centre, which I'm sure you were told when you phoned up. We are also a chartity set up for provision of instruction to the local community. This means that we don't have huge stacks of cash to spend but rather re-invest our profits to give you all a better climbing experience.
Recently we have built a new capmus and systems board and have several new developments in the pipe-line so watch this space.
Mile End, as Adam rightly said, has character. We are not a 'do it all out of the box replica of anywhere alse'. Our customers prefer this and hence why the wall was busy when you went.
Enjoy your climbing
Dylan
Mile End Route Setting Manager
Thanks for your comments. Recently we have started to use single coloured holds (with tags) for boulder problems. It will take some time to change all the routes to this configuration and some money on our part to buy new holds. Mile End is primarily a bouldering centre, which I'm sure you were told when you phoned up. We are also a chartity set up for provision of instruction to the local community. This means that we don't have huge stacks of cash to spend but rather re-invest our profits to give you all a better climbing experience.
Recently we have built a new capmus and systems board and have several new developments in the pipe-line so watch this space.
Mile End, as Adam rightly said, has character. We are not a 'do it all out of the box replica of anywhere alse'. Our customers prefer this and hence why the wall was busy when you went.
Enjoy your climbing
Dylan
Mile End Route Setting Manager
In reply to N at work:
Not having been there for about 10 years, I have often longed for a wall that was so much fun. Some of these newer places have all the atmosphere of a business conference centre.
Not having been there for about 10 years, I have often longed for a wall that was so much fun. Some of these newer places have all the atmosphere of a business conference centre.
Dylan, what are the chances of getting some speakers into the main bouldering room to get some music in? Or even just a stereo?
In reply to Witkacy:
The Westway being a prime example.
> Some of these newer places have all the atmosphere of a business conference centre
The Westway being a prime example.
In reply to N at work:
I don't use mile end wall however, I did pop along to have a wander, I asked the staff if I could look around, which they allowed me to do without quible, they stood and chatted to me for a while and were generally friendly and helpful, especially given I was a wall 'tourist'.
The facility has an enormous variety of bouldering problems and 'terrain'. The roped area is not huge so it seems reasonable to not leave in situ ropes up. And given its age it is a not half bad facility. It is still at the cutting edge of the business.
It is very difficult to find the space and capital for major works to overhaul the entire facility; to update and add to it.
I don't use mile end wall however, I did pop along to have a wander, I asked the staff if I could look around, which they allowed me to do without quible, they stood and chatted to me for a while and were generally friendly and helpful, especially given I was a wall 'tourist'.
The facility has an enormous variety of bouldering problems and 'terrain'. The roped area is not huge so it seems reasonable to not leave in situ ropes up. And given its age it is a not half bad facility. It is still at the cutting edge of the business.
It is very difficult to find the space and capital for major works to overhaul the entire facility; to update and add to it.
I suppose it all depends on what you want from your climbing wall. I live only a stones throw from The Castle but find it a bit corporate so choose to cycle the couple of miles to Mile End for the friendlier atmosphere and camaraderie. True, if you want to go to do rope work Mile End is not the place for. But if you want to do some bouldering problems, meet some interesting people or just hang-out Mile End is the London wall. It also has the best 'annex' of any London wall- The Palm Tree.
And by the way, Nicole (charming staffer) is off to America for the summer and is having her leaving-do there on Friday. All are welcome.
And by the way, Nicole (charming staffer) is off to America for the summer and is having her leaving-do there on Friday. All are welcome.
In reply to N at work:
Depends what you like, I'm not so keen on the flash corporate style walls like the castle, craggy etc although they tend to be a lot better for roped climbing and leading. Personally my two fav walls are nottingham and mile end, friendly with some atmosphere and great bouldering.
Also I'm sure mile end wass a lot less than £10 although it's ages since I've been there.
Phil
Depends what you like, I'm not so keen on the flash corporate style walls like the castle, craggy etc although they tend to be a lot better for roped climbing and leading. Personally my two fav walls are nottingham and mile end, friendly with some atmosphere and great bouldering.
Also I'm sure mile end wass a lot less than £10 although it's ages since I've been there.
Phil
In reply to N at work:
Easily the best wall in the UK I've ever used, but then I have a preference for the non-corporate feel.
Mile End, dodgy?! Lived within walking distance for 2 years without any problems.
The grading system is fine - after all, grades indoors don't correspond to the outdoors anyway and are just a way of assessing personal improvement.
Have never found the staff aggressive, maybe it's you.
Easily the best wall in the UK I've ever used, but then I have a preference for the non-corporate feel.
Mile End, dodgy?! Lived within walking distance for 2 years without any problems.
The grading system is fine - after all, grades indoors don't correspond to the outdoors anyway and are just a way of assessing personal improvement.
Have never found the staff aggressive, maybe it's you.
In reply to N at work:
I started climbing at Mile End and find it one of the most fun and friendliest places to climb.
Loads of character, interesting bouldering and yes, great totty!
I started climbing at Mile End and find it one of the most fun and friendliest places to climb.
Loads of character, interesting bouldering and yes, great totty!
In reply to N at work:
Hello N at Work,
I'm Dennis, the friendly/agressive member of staff you spoke to when you called here the other day.
Given the nature of your enquiry, I immediately felt that you might have high expectations and that that you sounded like you would be disappointed with our lack of height; so without saying as much, I was both frank and honest with you about what we had to offer. I even recall a chuckle, by yourself, at my candid comments.
I would seem, then, that my initial character assesment was spot on.
When you define things in terms of other things, you're bound to be dissapointed. "Is this what non-Westway walls are like?" No, this is what Mile End is like, breeze blocks, tags and warts 'n all.
My kind suggestion is that you might benefit by following the example of our other customers, and learn to make to most of a given climbing venue, appreciating it for what it is rather than complaining about what it's not.
As Dylan said, we constantly try to make Mile End better, and as anyone who has been climbing here for more than three years will tell you, we've not been doing a bad job.
If you do decide to come back, make sure to ask if I'm around. We can talk about your concerns in civilzed manner over a cup of tea and a flapjack (still less than a quid btw : ), rather than stirring the forum pot with unecessary and unwelcomed threads.
Thanks for your time and enjoy your climbing,
Dennis
Hello N at Work,
I'm Dennis, the friendly/agressive member of staff you spoke to when you called here the other day.
Given the nature of your enquiry, I immediately felt that you might have high expectations and that that you sounded like you would be disappointed with our lack of height; so without saying as much, I was both frank and honest with you about what we had to offer. I even recall a chuckle, by yourself, at my candid comments.
I would seem, then, that my initial character assesment was spot on.
When you define things in terms of other things, you're bound to be dissapointed. "Is this what non-Westway walls are like?" No, this is what Mile End is like, breeze blocks, tags and warts 'n all.
My kind suggestion is that you might benefit by following the example of our other customers, and learn to make to most of a given climbing venue, appreciating it for what it is rather than complaining about what it's not.
As Dylan said, we constantly try to make Mile End better, and as anyone who has been climbing here for more than three years will tell you, we've not been doing a bad job.
If you do decide to come back, make sure to ask if I'm around. We can talk about your concerns in civilzed manner over a cup of tea and a flapjack (still less than a quid btw : ), rather than stirring the forum pot with unecessary and unwelcomed threads.
Thanks for your time and enjoy your climbing,
Dennis
In reply to Rurp:
Mile End was cool. Would have gone there all the time if I lived closer.
the castle was just down the road so I took out a mortgage with them
Mile End was cool. Would have gone there all the time if I lived closer.
the castle was just down the road so I took out a mortgage with them
In reply to N at work: I used both a bit ages ago when I lived near London. The castle has good routes and some decent bouldering but I really liked the feel of mile end and the scope for loads of continuous climbing on shortish walls, a bit like the top end of burbage north!
In reply to N at work:
Mile End is the best wall in London by a mile. Having said though, if they introduce music I may change my view. For the love of God, Dennis and Dylan, please don't let's have piped musak - or indeed any other kind of musak.
jcm
Mile End is the best wall in London by a mile. Having said though, if they introduce music I may change my view. For the love of God, Dennis and Dylan, please don't let's have piped musak - or indeed any other kind of musak.
jcm
In reply to Anonymous:
John,
For the first time ever, motivated by customer comments backed up by replies on this thread, Andy is considering installing speakers in the main area.
I'd have a word if I were you ; )
John,
For the first time ever, motivated by customer comments backed up by replies on this thread, Andy is considering installing speakers in the main area.
I'd have a word if I were you ; )
In reply to Jon Jones:
Jon,
The area containing the reception/Peggy Day/lockers/showers/toilets/Monkey House is to be redeveloped within the next couple of years. The new two story design will include a designated warming-up area, big enough to hold small yoga classes : )
Dennis
Jon,
The area containing the reception/Peggy Day/lockers/showers/toilets/Monkey House is to be redeveloped within the next couple of years. The new two story design will include a designated warming-up area, big enough to hold small yoga classes : )
Dennis
In reply to Rurp:
>As Dylan said, we constantly try to make Mile End better, and as anyone who has been climbing here for more than three years will tell you, we've not been doing a bad job.
Don't tempt me.....
Anyway, when ARE you going to tear down the new grey overhanging wall stuff and put the far better stuff that was there before back? And where's London Wall going to be put?
jcm
>As Dylan said, we constantly try to make Mile End better, and as anyone who has been climbing here for more than three years will tell you, we've not been doing a bad job.
Don't tempt me.....
Anyway, when ARE you going to tear down the new grey overhanging wall stuff and put the far better stuff that was there before back? And where's London Wall going to be put?
jcm
In reply to N at work:
I've climbing at mile end for getting on for ten years. So I must like it. It has changed over that time, and for the better.
Years ago the wall was dirty and ill maitained, but this is not the case now. With new funky paint jobs, new features and walls, and continually changing routes.
As for the staff, in my humble opinion they are both friendly, helpful and knowlegable. Willing to give help with a problem or technical question.
The wall, as has been said, is a charity. I feel one that does a great job of helping school kids and disabled or disadvantaged children. Who otherwise might not be able to maintain fitness or enjoy the great sport of climbing.
Mile end is an brilliant wall for bouldering. I understand your point if you wanted tall roped routes, but mile end is predominanly a bouldering wall, with some of the best problems i have encountered.
I feel that this thread was an un-nessasary 'dig' at mile end, who's work over the years has helped thousands of kids, started many on the 'climbing road' and has become a favourite haunt of many strong technical climbers (who are also willing to help). Mile end is a climber's climbing wall, any suggestions are taken on board and it does not bow down to a corporate image. This is what makes mile end a super wall for climbers.
If you would like to discuss this further, my name is James and you'll find me at mile end often (i've got a tatoo of a gekko on my right shoulder). Hopefully you'll take on board what has been said through-out this thread, and that is that mile end is enjoyed by many, and hopefully many more.
I've climbing at mile end for getting on for ten years. So I must like it. It has changed over that time, and for the better.
Years ago the wall was dirty and ill maitained, but this is not the case now. With new funky paint jobs, new features and walls, and continually changing routes.
As for the staff, in my humble opinion they are both friendly, helpful and knowlegable. Willing to give help with a problem or technical question.
The wall, as has been said, is a charity. I feel one that does a great job of helping school kids and disabled or disadvantaged children. Who otherwise might not be able to maintain fitness or enjoy the great sport of climbing.
Mile end is an brilliant wall for bouldering. I understand your point if you wanted tall roped routes, but mile end is predominanly a bouldering wall, with some of the best problems i have encountered.
I feel that this thread was an un-nessasary 'dig' at mile end, who's work over the years has helped thousands of kids, started many on the 'climbing road' and has become a favourite haunt of many strong technical climbers (who are also willing to help). Mile end is a climber's climbing wall, any suggestions are taken on board and it does not bow down to a corporate image. This is what makes mile end a super wall for climbers.
If you would like to discuss this further, my name is James and you'll find me at mile end often (i've got a tatoo of a gekko on my right shoulder). Hopefully you'll take on board what has been said through-out this thread, and that is that mile end is enjoyed by many, and hopefully many more.
In reply to Rurp:
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!
> (In reply to Jon Jones)
>
> Jon,
>
> The area containing the reception/Peggy Day/lockers/showers/toilets/Monkey House is to be redeveloped within the next couple of years. The new two story design will include a designated warming-up area, big enough to hold small yoga classes : )
>
> Dennis
>
> Jon,
>
> The area containing the reception/Peggy Day/lockers/showers/toilets/Monkey House is to be redeveloped within the next couple of years. The new two story design will include a designated warming-up area, big enough to hold small yoga classes : )
>
> Dennis
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!
In reply to Rurp:
A few random thoughts.
Colour-coding problems is an excellent idea. It guards against the 'I can climb 6c+ at the Castle, how come I just failed on a VS at Swanage' tendency.
I miss London Wall, indeed all the grey resin panels, they were by far the most specific training for real climbing in London or just about anywhere else. A.N.Other section of ply and bolt-ons is a retrograte step.
Mile End is a Yoga-free zone, innit!
Keep up the good work.
A few random thoughts.
Colour-coding problems is an excellent idea. It guards against the 'I can climb 6c+ at the Castle, how come I just failed on a VS at Swanage' tendency.
I miss London Wall, indeed all the grey resin panels, they were by far the most specific training for real climbing in London or just about anywhere else. A.N.Other section of ply and bolt-ons is a retrograte step.
Mile End is a Yoga-free zone, innit!
Keep up the good work.
In reply to N at work:
The Castle is fine for leading and building up leader's stamina etc. It has a good bouldering wall replete with de rigeur sullen blodderers.
Westway likewise is good for leading
but
The Castle has too many yoga chimps who wouldn't knew a ballnut from a tricam, but they think climbing is cooool and it impresses the their friends at NatlyasdMidlloyd where they work.
Mile End is excellent for techinique training and getting a really good session in at the monkey room. The Palm Tree is a cracking pub.
It does, however, smell of farts and socks
The Castle is fine for leading and building up leader's stamina etc. It has a good bouldering wall replete with de rigeur sullen blodderers.
Westway likewise is good for leading
but
The Castle has too many yoga chimps who wouldn't knew a ballnut from a tricam, but they think climbing is cooool and it impresses the their friends at NatlyasdMidlloyd where they work.
Mile End is excellent for techinique training and getting a really good session in at the monkey room. The Palm Tree is a cracking pub.
It does, however, smell of farts and socks
In reply to N at work:
Opinion!
Lets face it you are in London. it is not the place to climb!
Mile end serves a purpose, to train, as do most walls.
I trained at Mile End and the Castle, theye served a purpose, castle had some good routes and excellent people. Mile end had a mix, some climbers there were too full of themselves, but hey what do you expect. Thats london all over!
Why did you move to London? For money? Lifestyle, why not move to Scotland or Wales for a real scene if you want to climb!
Walls are for training- you could always construct your own.
Opinion!
Lets face it you are in London. it is not the place to climb!
Mile end serves a purpose, to train, as do most walls.
I trained at Mile End and the Castle, theye served a purpose, castle had some good routes and excellent people. Mile end had a mix, some climbers there were too full of themselves, but hey what do you expect. Thats london all over!
Why did you move to London? For money? Lifestyle, why not move to Scotland or Wales for a real scene if you want to climb!
Walls are for training- you could always construct your own.
In reply to N at work: My god, i did the castle for the first time in a year or so now i know why i stopped going it was expensive, crap and full of i love myself but cant climb ass holes, do yourself a favour and stick to mile end its quirkey, fun and each hold only has one tag!!!!!
In reply to JimBob:
How's it going matey have you got a new bike yet? give me a ring and make the trek up north.
Inreply to the thread:
Mile end ROCKS!!
It's a climber's wall for climbers, it's got that feel of there's only to grades. Them you can do, and them you can't.
No, there isn't much roped cluimbing but if you want to train stamina get yourself on the Peggy Day or in the monkey house.
The people there climb hard, there are some realy interestng problems and everyone there put up with my (frequent) drunken antics after visiting the best pub in the world( The palm tree, about 100 yards away).
Oh, and if you ever need saqnd bagging talk to Andy.
I'm now living ten munites from Caley and I don't like walls,
but I miss the place.
Tim.
How's it going matey have you got a new bike yet? give me a ring and make the trek up north.
Inreply to the thread:
Mile end ROCKS!!
It's a climber's wall for climbers, it's got that feel of there's only to grades. Them you can do, and them you can't.
No, there isn't much roped cluimbing but if you want to train stamina get yourself on the Peggy Day or in the monkey house.
The people there climb hard, there are some realy interestng problems and everyone there put up with my (frequent) drunken antics after visiting the best pub in the world( The palm tree, about 100 yards away).
Oh, and if you ever need saqnd bagging talk to Andy.
I'm now living ten munites from Caley and I don't like walls,
but I miss the place.
Tim.
In reply to N at work:
I was recently working in west london and went over to mile end, arrived late, recieved wrong directions from staff, and was charged full price for half an hours climbing. thought the bouldering was good and the atmsosphere friendly enough, but a climbers wall for climbers....a more flexible approach would have been to reduce the price for so short a spell. i'd have second thoughts about going back.
I was recently working in west london and went over to mile end, arrived late, recieved wrong directions from staff, and was charged full price for half an hours climbing. thought the bouldering was good and the atmsosphere friendly enough, but a climbers wall for climbers....a more flexible approach would have been to reduce the price for so short a spell. i'd have second thoughts about going back.
In reply to N at work: Mile End wall crap? Oi,have a word with yourself.
Graham Desroy ,me and Phil Bracewell built the original way back in the mists of time(when we were players), when it was the only place to go in London when it was wet. Ive got a lot of blood and sweat invested in the place so dont you go dissing now.
And if anyone wants to know the story behind LET ME TELL YOU and EJECT, buy me a pint of creme de menthe and I might tell you.
But then of course- Id have to kill you...
Graham Desroy ,me and Phil Bracewell built the original way back in the mists of time(when we were players), when it was the only place to go in London when it was wet. Ive got a lot of blood and sweat invested in the place so dont you go dissing now.
And if anyone wants to know the story behind LET ME TELL YOU and EJECT, buy me a pint of creme de menthe and I might tell you.
But then of course- Id have to kill you...
In reply to N at work:
It would be perfect if only they would bring back the yoghurt flapjacks. Do you hear me? YOGHURT FLAPJACKS! I mean, how hard is it to find a supplier of yoghurt flapjacks ffs?!
It would be perfect if only they would bring back the yoghurt flapjacks. Do you hear me? YOGHURT FLAPJACKS! I mean, how hard is it to find a supplier of yoghurt flapjacks ffs?!
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