/ Peg board yay or nay?
So from my sofa I watched the sun set on a perfect climbing day and now the clouds of reality have descended ...so training- I have a pull up bar in the garden as well as some of those wooden metolius holds to hang off it...but I’ve also got some time on my hands (alongside the sores from washing them) and I’m just wondering if it’s worth my time making up / buying a peg board. would I get enough out of what I have already or would a peg board be a worthwhile addition? Cheers all- hope you and yours are all safe and well.
I've only tried a peg board once, none of my regular walls have ever had one. I don't know whether it was very useful but I can recommend it for being quite fun. And if you get super strong on it, you'll feel like a badass, whether or not it's actually much use to your climbing.
Personally if I has the space & materials I‘d go directly to an actual wall
Forget the pegboard and build a small wall. Make your own hold wooden holds (which are better for training on anyway) and it can be pretty cost friendly.
If you really want to do pegboard style training just do pullups on a bar and try and touch the ceiling.
Amazing for winter training, but less so for summer, because the movement and angle doesn't really replicated rock climbing in the way it does axe lockoffs.
Perfect for showing off at the gym when your cross-fit but can't boulder V1.
I've only recently started to see these at climbing walls. Personally I don't really see the point in them, I mean I would prefer to go for a fingerboard, some sort of moonboard or just simply climb.
Each to there own I guess.
I don't rate a pegboard at all. You can train lock offs at far more climbing specific joint angles with other equipment, assuming you aren't training for winter climbing.
Things I would prioritise before building a pegboard:
1) A good fingerboard setup with pulley system to remove weight and weights to add weight.
2) A steep board (40-50°)
3) A less steep board (15-30°) for endurance work
4) Rings or a TRX
5) Basic weights / dumbbells for core workouts, antagonist work and injury prevention
6) Pull up bar
7) A campus board
8) Micro crimps (see 1 above), a pinch block and mono trainers
9) Barbell for deadlifts and a bench for benchpress etc
10) Parallettes and an ab rollout wheel
11) A sloper rail
12) A crack den (and I don't even do crack climbs!)
Etc etc. Basically, a peg board would be so low on the list of priorities that I would need a near infinite amount of space, funds, time and energy before I would consider installing one.
We have one at our local wall. Gym rats play about on it before returning to campussing their way up V1s. I don't think I've ever really seen anyone doing any form of effective training on it.
Everywhere I see places installing a pegboard it gets lots of use in the first two week and then no one touches it. So I put this in the category "less fun than it looks" - definitely one not to bother with.
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