UKC

Just got myself some Metolius rock rings and am about to start the '10-min training' program. This will be my first attempt to specifically strengthen my fingers, so how often should I be trying to do it - daily, weekly, somewhere in between? I couldn't get through the whole 10 min program when I first tried which I gather is to be expected from the Metolius training guide...

In reply to scaredy_cat:

I bought some at the weekend, and I can only get about as far as the 20sec dead hang on the 3 finger pockets. I'm trying to use it everyday, but adapting their program a bit, until my fingers get a bit stronger, im doing more offset pullups and bent arm hangs off the large/medium edges

In reply to scaredy_cat:

I use mine for a session of 'repeaters' for which it is ok but lacks the hold variety a board would provide.

I basically use it if im short of time due to work and cannot get to the gym. Some weeks not at all and others 3 days in a row.

If you keep the training sessions relatively short you'll find you can climb multiple days in a row without an issue.

In reply to scaredy_cat:

as often as you feel able to. If your fingers and arms don't hurt then give it a go...

In reply to AJM:

It may or may not have been using rock rings (I think it is keyboard use at work mainly, but perhaps I'm in denial), but got nasty tendonitis not too long after training on rock rings (which has now been a problem on and off for years). would seriously recommend erring on the side of caution until you get a feel for how your body is reacting to the intensive training. it is often quoted that muscle gets stronger far quicker than tendons, so beginning intensive training should be slow and progressive.

In reply to scaredy_cat: i do the 10 minute session everyday before work, sometimes at lunch and maybe a third time before heading home.

In reply to riddle:

Blimey - what grade do you climb?!?!

In reply to riddle: ..and how long did it take you to work up to that level? I'm particulalry interested to start at the right level; I'm thinking if I was training muscle I'd know I'd done a good job as all would be a bit sore the next day (or day after), but if I understand right then getting sore tendons isn't a good thing - means you've probably overdone it?

In reply to riddle:

A classic example of how not to train. Setting aside the dubious merits of Metolius' 10min sequence, where's the stimulus for your body to adapt if all you challenge it with is something it can already do?

In reply to Serpico: It would be OK for me though, as I can't do the 10-min sequence all the way through yet!

In reply to jules699: I am not great climber, just enjoy the short but intense work out.

It took about 3 weeks to get the routine sorted. The L Hang is the hardest of them all.

As for over training..... i have only torn one muscle, in my forearm, in the last 10 years. My job keeps me fit in terms of tendons, etc. I am very much in the old school of "no pain no gain."

Whith 3 to 4 hours between sessions there is plenty of time to recover.

It's just a great way to start the day.

In reply to Serpico:So is the 10 min sequence from metolious pants?

Serious question though, what is a good routine? There seems to be a lot of opinion on how to train on a finger board but nothing definitive, or is it just a case of what works for you.

Cheers

Andy

In reply to Serpico: Care to enlighten us with more information rather than the usual "holier than tho" UKC repsonse?

The 10 minute routine works for me. It wakes me up in the morning and keeps my mind focused throughout the day.

In reply to riddle:

There's far better way in which to wake up in the morning

In reply to jules699: Really?

In reply to riddle:

The 10 minute sequence is a very general training thing - it does a bit of everything. You would probably get more benefit from a properly organised session where you train each grip and lockoff position seperately so that you can really nail each of the desired muscle groups. I did it when I bought my rock rings, but once I could do it regularly I switched to periodising more because it gives more benefits.

In response to the "I do it 3 times a day" - his point is that it isn't helping you. To get stronger you need to overload your muscles each time. When you get to the point where you can do it you should make it harder, or do 2 back to back, or something to make it more difficult. Doing it 3 times in a day means its too easy for you and isn't helping your muscles, basically.

AJM

In reply to AJM:

Well not totally true. At least if he keeps at that routine he won't be getting any weaker...

But yes it is generally agreed that the key to training is to mix it up, force progression in a structured way while avoiding injury.

In reply to quadmyre:

Thats true I suppose, but for me if I'm going to dedicate time to training it isn't just to maintain the status quo. I'll save that for the downhill slide into weakness that I hope won't happen until I'm 70 or so

AJM

In reply to AJM: Excellent and thanks.
I knew that anyway.
As i said i do the routine 3 times a day, not for gains, it staves off lethargy of the afternoons.

In reply to riddle:

Why not devise a routine of a similar length thats harder though - that way you will see benefits as well as being less lethargic?

AJM