UKC

Climbers prize strong fingers, and there are loads of exercises for getting strong fingers.

Toes get crammed into boots that are too small to enable maximum power to be transmitted, at the cost of some pain.

Are there any exercises that strengthen the toes, which (might) mean more comfortable shoes may be worn?

yes.

What a fulsome reply.

No

Climbing barefoot will strengthen your toes.

Calf raises? One legged? Off of a curb or raised surface, maybe even add weight. 

You could try standing barefoot on your skirting boards for a few minutes at a time. 

I think the lockdown belly timber prevents that from being a physical possibility

Climb in softer shoes.

Scarpa Veloces have been a revelation for me. Soft, comfy but still quite decent performance.

To be honest, how much "real" help does a downturned piece of rubber give your toes?

It doesn't take much to pull them into shape by hand when you're not wearing them.

Calf raises with toes on the stairs would be useful, I'd imagine.

That's cos they're empty.

try squashing a car suspension spring, when it's empty (not on a car).

Are you suggesting it only creates a force when there's a foot in it?

For stronger toes and foot strength for edging on credit card thin holds, you can stand barefoot with only your toes on the edge of a step. Try mixing in calf raises to this, to develop calf strength but also strengthen your arches etc.

Otherwise I wear new shoes under the duvet to get them more malleable (sweaty) and comfortable.

Well, if you're bimbling around on F5c or HS climbs, then you're right - very little. Try something harder, especially on small footholds and/or overhanging rock then quite a bit. 

I think I've spotted the problem here.  You need to put your foot into the shoe to get max benefits.

To be honest, if your profile is anything like up to date it doesn't look like you do anything that involves standing on small holds. If you did you would be able to answer your own question

Upside down beastmaker. 7:3 repeaters bare foot. It's the only way I've 'hung' the slopers . My toe gains have been incredible. Tbf it'd probably actually work. 

https://www.outsideonline.com/2291356/moves-to-strengthen-your-feet

The tensioning of the shoe between heel and toes is specifically designed to allow more force to be driven through the tips of the toes. In this analogy your foot is the spring. The rest of the suspension components can be moved easily until they are put under tension. 

Shoes make a vast difference on small footholds which require precision 😁

Yes.

Whatever floats yer boat

Even if marginal it can be the difference between success and failure. Some handholds are better used open handed and others crimped and it’s the same with footholds - some can be used better with downturned shoes for hooking/clawing holds especially on steep ground. 

Having said that I think a lot of climbers would have even more benefit by working at applying body tension through to their feet more actively and consciously pressing footholds hard than stressing about shoe choice. Probably good for strengthening those toes too 😀

The performance benefits of snug shoes isn’t just compensating for poor toe strength. 

Agreed, I was being a bit facetious.

I see a lot of people buying inappropriate shoes for their grade thinking it'll help them climb harder, when it's actually preventing from climbing more, and therefore getting more experience.

I know a couple of people climbing 6a, with absolutely atrocious foot work, thinking a pair of shoes with get them into 7a territory.

To others, yes you're probably right, I'm a 6c bimbler, but I'm happy with that, and I don't update my profile very often, does anyone?

I was curious as to whether or not anyone ever trained their toes (I'd not heard of it before). I was also thinking that ballet dancers put a lot of force through their feet (when on point) with very inferior footwear!!

Look at it the other way, try climbing in soft shoes/slippers and you'll soon find out if you've got weak feet (though not specifically toes). 

We use our feet with more variety and differently to a ballet dancer. Using the outside edge or inside edge of your shoe isn’t dependent on toe strength and of the shoe isn't tight enough it will roll. Of course you can go the whole hog and climb barefoot like Charles Albert in which case toe strength will be vital. But to answer your question I don’t know anyone who trains their toes though admittedly I have lifted dumbbells on top my toes but that’s just to train toe hooking. 

Funnily enough the magic 'new shoe' effect kicked in just this week for me. I've been carrying around an unworn 'saving for best' pair.

First wear on a delicate slab problem, good foothold, tiny sharp crimps (I've now got matching puncture wounds on both forefingers). Going for a poor sloper just out of reach/just reachable at full extension where any momentum is enough to pull you off. The downturn was enough to get me right on tip toes to reach the sloper and not topple backwards.

Downturned shoes in niche slab problem shocker. Nice one Scarpa.

Ballet dancers do a fair bit of training of the feet before they go on pointe.  Pointe shoes are fairly technical too - they are surprisingly stiff and dancers all have their different preferences and breaking in techniques for their shoes.