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I know it obviously a poor, overpriced and unimaginative wall, but what's the general consensus on the accuracy of grading at The Castle? The bouldering seems dead tough and the routes really soft.
Cheers
Cheers
In reply to deaddogsdie:
It's one of the biggest and busiest walls in Europe with new routes put up regularly by the big name route setters. Gaz Perry is putting some up this weekend I believe, Steve McClure earlier in the year, every route in the building seems to get changed after three months or so. It's got just about every type and angle of climbing you can ask for. Obviously it must be rubbish, overpriced and unimaginative?
It's one of the biggest and busiest walls in Europe with new routes put up regularly by the big name route setters. Gaz Perry is putting some up this weekend I believe, Steve McClure earlier in the year, every route in the building seems to get changed after three months or so. It's got just about every type and angle of climbing you can ask for. Obviously it must be rubbish, overpriced and unimaginative?
In reply to deaddogsdie: I've always enjoyed the bouldering at the castle.
I'd say that the grading is comparable to the other walls in London. That said, I feel that most London walls undergrade their boulders and have lots of soft routes.
I'd say that the grading is comparable to the other walls in London. That said, I feel that most London walls undergrade their boulders and have lots of soft routes.
In reply to deaddogsdie:
I think the setting is a bit up and down but it seems consistent with the handful of other places I've climbed.
Not that one can too accurately compare grades across the disciples but the V2/occasional V3 I boulder at and the French 6b+ I climb at there are broadly in line with each other on tables I've seen that try and reconcile the systems.
I think the setting is a bit up and down but it seems consistent with the handful of other places I've climbed.
Not that one can too accurately compare grades across the disciples but the V2/occasional V3 I boulder at and the French 6b+ I climb at there are broadly in line with each other on tables I've seen that try and reconcile the systems.
In reply to deaddogsdie: Couldn't disagree more. The bouldering grades are perfect, indoor grades should feel stiffer and more powerful than outdoor grading simply because it's less foot placing. The routes, anyone better than the man himself, Steve M ...But not being biased here,if you visit most indoor walls, you will find a route or a set that isn't up to scratch once in awhile..You cannot get a Steve M regularly setting up the routes...What I do when I find the grades soft, I make up my own, thats the beauty of climbing, use your imagination
In reply to royal:
Gaz was definitely in this week putting up routes.
To the OP:
I can't really comment on the bouldering grades as I rarely boulder.
As far as routes go, I'd say that they're *fairly* consistent - and about the same level as other walls I've used in London.
If you feel they're soft then head up to The Edge next time you're in Sheff - compared to Castle grades even I think they're soft, so you'll be cruising up the routes!
Si
Gaz was definitely in this week putting up routes.
To the OP:
I can't really comment on the bouldering grades as I rarely boulder.
As far as routes go, I'd say that they're *fairly* consistent - and about the same level as other walls I've used in London.
If you feel they're soft then head up to The Edge next time you're in Sheff - compared to Castle grades even I think they're soft, so you'll be cruising up the routes!
Si
In reply to dynouk:
Ah, I was wondering why I've always hated climbing. Must be my lack of imagination.
Ah, I was wondering why I've always hated climbing. Must be my lack of imagination.
In reply to terryturbojr:
Sorry, not trying to be objectionable... don't quite understand what you mean about tables?
Sorry, not trying to be objectionable... don't quite understand what you mean about tables?
In reply to royal:
"Gaz Perry" - sorry, who is he? I know of a chap by the name of Gareth Parry who is pretty reasonable and I've enjoyed climbing with a few times.
Price: even with Steve and Gaz rubbing my aching feet and setting routes of my choosing on request, any wall that charges £12 for a member entry is overpriced. Period.
Routes/accuracy of grades: I've climbed all the main lead lines in the building up to "8a" (7b at max. in actuality) mostly onsight and I'd quite honestly say they're a numeric French grade too high as a rule of thumb. Get clipping some bolts in France if you don't believe me - it might give you a bit of a shock.
Rubbish: The thing I actually dislike though are the obvious safety issues predicated by the wandering lines. This worries me less on the lead lines where (hopefully) people have some idea of what they're doing, though it's obviously a pain to have to wait for someone to spin off a whole lead before you can climb as they're climbing on both yours and their line owing to the setting. However, it does cause me concern on the novice lines. For example, last night my girlfriend was toproping a 5+ where, at one point, she was literally 5 metres off to the right from the belay point and looking at a bloody massive swing into another girl climbing the adjacent route. I just don't get it; what's the point!?
And before you say it, yeah I have spoken to the staff about it.
"Gaz Perry" - sorry, who is he? I know of a chap by the name of Gareth Parry who is pretty reasonable and I've enjoyed climbing with a few times.
Price: even with Steve and Gaz rubbing my aching feet and setting routes of my choosing on request, any wall that charges £12 for a member entry is overpriced. Period.
Routes/accuracy of grades: I've climbed all the main lead lines in the building up to "8a" (7b at max. in actuality) mostly onsight and I'd quite honestly say they're a numeric French grade too high as a rule of thumb. Get clipping some bolts in France if you don't believe me - it might give you a bit of a shock.
Rubbish: The thing I actually dislike though are the obvious safety issues predicated by the wandering lines. This worries me less on the lead lines where (hopefully) people have some idea of what they're doing, though it's obviously a pain to have to wait for someone to spin off a whole lead before you can climb as they're climbing on both yours and their line owing to the setting. However, it does cause me concern on the novice lines. For example, last night my girlfriend was toproping a 5+ where, at one point, she was literally 5 metres off to the right from the belay point and looking at a bloody massive swing into another girl climbing the adjacent route. I just don't get it; what's the point!?
And before you say it, yeah I have spoken to the staff about it.
In reply to deaddogsdie: Think its a great and imaginative wall. Overpriced for one off entry, great value for direct debit..
regarding grades, bouldering grades are way off. Anything above v5 was nigh on impossible(..for me..). Wheras route grades seemed reasonable.
regarding grades, bouldering grades are way off. Anything above v5 was nigh on impossible(..for me..). Wheras route grades seemed reasonable.
In reply to deaddogsdie:
When I visited I found the Castle route grading was softer than Craggy in Guildford (as with many places, The Barn being a very notable exception!). I thought the bouldering was about right.
I agree with shared lines, but presumably there aren't many of these, and I agree that these should be restricted to lead routes so you don't get a big swing.
Each to their own - don't climb there if you don't like it.
£12 does seem a bit high compared to other walls, but it is a big place with a lot of variety (the cave is superb), I think it's worth it.
Perhaps they have a bulk buy option for regular visitors? I haven't checked.
When I visited I found the Castle route grading was softer than Craggy in Guildford (as with many places, The Barn being a very notable exception!). I thought the bouldering was about right.
I agree with shared lines, but presumably there aren't many of these, and I agree that these should be restricted to lead routes so you don't get a big swing.
Each to their own - don't climb there if you don't like it.
£12 does seem a bit high compared to other walls, but it is a big place with a lot of variety (the cave is superb), I think it's worth it.
Perhaps they have a bulk buy option for regular visitors? I haven't checked.
In reply to deaddogsdie:
The bouldering seems about fair to me although the sit starts often feel very hard for the grade, but i'd always put that down to my height. Route grades seem a trifle more hit and miss but again I suspect that is probably down to my personal style.
I'd say the Castle was on average a bit softer than Harlow and fairly similar to Craggy and Calshot.
The bouldering seems about fair to me although the sit starts often feel very hard for the grade, but i'd always put that down to my height. Route grades seem a trifle more hit and miss but again I suspect that is probably down to my personal style.
I'd say the Castle was on average a bit softer than Harlow and fairly similar to Craggy and Calshot.
In reply to deaddogsdie:
>For example, last night my girlfriend was toproping a 5+ where, at one >point, she was literally 5 metres off to the right from the belay point and >looking at a bloody massive swing into another girl climbing the adjacent >route. I just don't get it; what's the point!?
Where abouts was that? I can think of some lead lines that traverse that much, but not any top rope routes (off the top of my head, anyay).
Si
PS What did the staff say when you spoke to them?
>For example, last night my girlfriend was toproping a 5+ where, at one >point, she was literally 5 metres off to the right from the belay point and >looking at a bloody massive swing into another girl climbing the adjacent >route. I just don't get it; what's the point!?
Where abouts was that? I can think of some lead lines that traverse that much, but not any top rope routes (off the top of my head, anyay).
Si
PS What did the staff say when you spoke to them?
In reply to deaddogsdie:
They do wander a bit don't they, makes it pretty hard to do some routes at busy times, so basically any evening after 6 or the weekend after midday.
They do wander a bit don't they, makes it pretty hard to do some routes at busy times, so basically any evening after 6 or the weekend after midday.
In reply to ahaynes:
I'd say by the way they're rammed all the time that their prices aren't too high.
I think anyone that goes remotely regularly will be on some kind of payment plan. It's £42 a month on direct debit, £120 for 3 months and so on, so if you're going once a week it's worth getting on one of them, let alone the 3-4 times a week that a lot of the locals go.
> £12 does seem a bit high compared to other walls, but it is a big place with a lot of variety (the cave is superb), I think it's worth it.
> Perhaps they have a bulk buy option for regular visitors? I haven't checked.
> Perhaps they have a bulk buy option for regular visitors? I haven't checked.
I'd say by the way they're rammed all the time that their prices aren't too high.
I think anyone that goes remotely regularly will be on some kind of payment plan. It's £42 a month on direct debit, £120 for 3 months and so on, so if you're going once a week it's worth getting on one of them, let alone the 3-4 times a week that a lot of the locals go.
In reply to deaddogsdie:
Things like this were folk try and reconcile the different grading systems
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grade_%28climbing%29#Free_climbing_ratings_com...
Things like this were folk try and reconcile the different grading systems
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grade_%28climbing%29#Free_climbing_ratings_com...
In reply to deaddogsdie:
Literally 5 metres eh?
Actually for what it's worth I do agree with you about wandering routes, but for your gf to be 5 metres off route anywhere in the centre, she would need to have gone severely off route - crossing several top rope lines in the process...
> For example, last night my girlfriend was toproping a 5+ where, at one point, she was literally 5 metres off to the right from the belay point and looking at a bloody massive swing into another girl climbing the adjacent route.
Literally 5 metres eh?
Actually for what it's worth I do agree with you about wandering routes, but for your gf to be 5 metres off route anywhere in the centre, she would need to have gone severely off route - crossing several top rope lines in the process...
In reply to SCC:
On the slabs down stairs there's a couple that wonder a good couple of meters off to the sides, enough that you can't climb them if someone is on the rope next to you, which they're likely to be.
On the slabs down stairs there's a couple that wonder a good couple of meters off to the sides, enough that you can't climb them if someone is on the rope next to you, which they're likely to be.
In reply to terryturbojr:
Do you mean the slabby section beside the featured walls or the slab around the other side, next to the campus rungs?
Either way - 5m? Really?
The slab by the campus rungs is, what, 4m wide at most? And has two top rope anchors on it. No way that could be the one you are talking about then.
That leaves the larger slab area by the featured wall (with the overlap on the r/h side of it). I'll take a look when I'm in next week, as I've not climberd on it in a few weeks - and the setting must have changed for the worse since I did as there was no way you could have got 5m horizontally away from the top rope anchor and not been massively off route.
I'll take a look and have a word with the staff.
Si
> (In reply to SCC)
>
> On the slabs down stairs there's a couple that wonder a good couple of meters off to the sides, enough that you can't climb them if someone is on the rope next to you, which they're likely to be.
>
> On the slabs down stairs there's a couple that wonder a good couple of meters off to the sides, enough that you can't climb them if someone is on the rope next to you, which they're likely to be.
Do you mean the slabby section beside the featured walls or the slab around the other side, next to the campus rungs?
Either way - 5m? Really?
The slab by the campus rungs is, what, 4m wide at most? And has two top rope anchors on it. No way that could be the one you are talking about then.
That leaves the larger slab area by the featured wall (with the overlap on the r/h side of it). I'll take a look when I'm in next week, as I've not climberd on it in a few weeks - and the setting must have changed for the worse since I did as there was no way you could have got 5m horizontally away from the top rope anchor and not been massively off route.
I'll take a look and have a word with the staff.
Si
In reply to deaddogsdie:
It's as good a centre as many otheres, affordable if you go regularily and plan for it.
The bouldering grades, generally I think are on the stiff side.
The only place I ever do routes are on the long leads upstairs. Here the grades are about spot on. With the odd soft touch and more often the odd sandbag.
It's as good a centre as many otheres, affordable if you go regularily and plan for it.
The bouldering grades, generally I think are on the stiff side.
The only place I ever do routes are on the long leads upstairs. Here the grades are about spot on. With the odd soft touch and more often the odd sandbag.
In reply to deaddogsdie:
Sounds like you're obviously a hero who can't be pleased? Every route has an email address at the bottom to report grade inconsistancies. I havn't climbed in France but certainly had a grade shock in Croatia but thats something I was told to expect as it's tough 'compared to soft French grades'. Maybe the the Castle is actually two numeric grades softer and you're not as much of a hero? UK grades at the Castle I find compare pretty well to places I've climbed in the UK, I put inconsistancies more to my strengths and weaknesses than anything else.
The way I look at it is that I'm in London and I'm pretty chuffed that there's a place as good as the Castle down the road. On average I go there twice a week on a monthly direct debit and it costs me £5.25.
Fair enough £11.50 is a fair wack but if you're only visiting for a one off and want a climb then it's not that horrific. Most people in there are regulars on similar payments to me.
Your point about safety issues is ridiculously exaggerated. There are only a few routes with conflicting lines and you'd have to be a muppet or just rude to climb them if someone else is on them.
I'm not sure why I'm bothering to make the points but I just find it irritating when people are so negative just to have a dig. Relax and enjoy what you've got, or move to France I suppose?
Sounds like you're obviously a hero who can't be pleased? Every route has an email address at the bottom to report grade inconsistancies. I havn't climbed in France but certainly had a grade shock in Croatia but thats something I was told to expect as it's tough 'compared to soft French grades'. Maybe the the Castle is actually two numeric grades softer and you're not as much of a hero? UK grades at the Castle I find compare pretty well to places I've climbed in the UK, I put inconsistancies more to my strengths and weaknesses than anything else.
The way I look at it is that I'm in London and I'm pretty chuffed that there's a place as good as the Castle down the road. On average I go there twice a week on a monthly direct debit and it costs me £5.25.
Fair enough £11.50 is a fair wack but if you're only visiting for a one off and want a climb then it's not that horrific. Most people in there are regulars on similar payments to me.
Your point about safety issues is ridiculously exaggerated. There are only a few routes with conflicting lines and you'd have to be a muppet or just rude to climb them if someone else is on them.
I'm not sure why I'm bothering to make the points but I just find it irritating when people are so negative just to have a dig. Relax and enjoy what you've got, or move to France I suppose?
In reply to catt:
I agree that the leading grades are about what you would expect from a broad consensus of what a particular grade means across a range of crags here in the real world. Every now and then you get the odd sand bag or soft touch but it all adds to the fun.
The bouldering grades I think are wildly inconsistent but if you were to take an average I reckon it's bang on.
I agree that the leading grades are about what you would expect from a broad consensus of what a particular grade means across a range of crags here in the real world. Every now and then you get the odd sand bag or soft touch but it all adds to the fun.
The bouldering grades I think are wildly inconsistent but if you were to take an average I reckon it's bang on.
In reply to SCC:
That bit, yep. But definitely not 5m (someone else said that), I said a couple of meters I think. Enough that you can't use that route at the same time as the other rope though.
Not that I mind, they're interesting routes because of the width but you just have to choose the time when you climb them, normally about 10am on a Saturday as that's the quietest time that isn't during work hours.
That bit, yep. But definitely not 5m (someone else said that), I said a couple of meters I think. Enough that you can't use that route at the same time as the other rope though.
Not that I mind, they're interesting routes because of the width but you just have to choose the time when you climb them, normally about 10am on a Saturday as that's the quietest time that isn't during work hours.
In reply to plexiglass_nick:
"she would need to have gone severely off route" - she was on the same route, no question.
"crossing several top rope lines in the process..." - she did indeed. Hence the problem!
Check it out next time you're in, it's a green 5+ on line 14 of the high topropes directly opposite the slabby warm-up bouldering area upstairs. The route, as you will see, quite literally starts on line 15.
"she would need to have gone severely off route" - she was on the same route, no question.
"crossing several top rope lines in the process..." - she did indeed. Hence the problem!
Check it out next time you're in, it's a green 5+ on line 14 of the high topropes directly opposite the slabby warm-up bouldering area upstairs. The route, as you will see, quite literally starts on line 15.
On the topic of grades don't a lot of the route setters travel about and do different climbing centres? As such there should be some consistency?
In reply to deaddogsdie: Climbed there regularly for 4 years before moving out of London.
The Castle was the furthest to get to but IMHO the best all round wall I have been too, at last count i was enrolled and climbed at over 20 through travel for my work
Using a veriety of walls now, that by comparrision seem small and unimaginative in thier route setting, but then they are all much cheeper.
I noticed the grades seemed a little harder there about two years ago, at first I thought I was failing but apparently they did firm them up a bit.
I still miss the Castle though. Take out their monthly plan and go twice a week and it all makes financial and climbing sense.
J
The Castle was the furthest to get to but IMHO the best all round wall I have been too, at last count i was enrolled and climbed at over 20 through travel for my work
Using a veriety of walls now, that by comparrision seem small and unimaginative in thier route setting, but then they are all much cheeper.
I noticed the grades seemed a little harder there about two years ago, at first I thought I was failing but apparently they did firm them up a bit.
I still miss the Castle though. Take out their monthly plan and go twice a week and it all makes financial and climbing sense.
J
In reply to SCC:
I quite honestly estimate 5 metres.
I didn't say anything about a slab, that was someone else.
The route is a green 5+ on line 14 of the top rope walls upstairs. The route, as you will also see, does in fact start on line 15 but then moves all the way to the 14 anchor and is listed on the sheet for 14. Do check it out.
I quite honestly estimate 5 metres.
I didn't say anything about a slab, that was someone else.
The route is a green 5+ on line 14 of the top rope walls upstairs. The route, as you will also see, does in fact start on line 15 but then moves all the way to the 14 anchor and is listed on the sheet for 14. Do check it out.
I've always thought of The Castle as somewhere you either love or hate, I guess I'm in the love camp, but I think that's because I go irregularly, if it was more often and I was getting stung on entry all the time I am sure I would have a different view. Grades have always felt about right to be honest, but then again I am a craggy regular, so my perception of grades is not light touch.
In reply to deaddogsdie:
Actually if this was last night and that is on the featured column I think it is, we may have been at the wall at that point - hello! yes it gets pretty crowded and sorry if we got in your way (and if that is part of your rant).
The lines 14 and 15 are at max a metre apart at start and finish so five metres is a wild distortion. The lines do interfere with each other which is annoying but honestly I don't think the amount of swing potential at that point is a particular worry given you are on a top rope - sorry. There are much worse examples in the centre particularly on the lead walls.
Actually if this was last night and that is on the featured column I think it is, we may have been at the wall at that point - hello! yes it gets pretty crowded and sorry if we got in your way (and if that is part of your rant).
The lines 14 and 15 are at max a metre apart at start and finish so five metres is a wild distortion. The lines do interfere with each other which is annoying but honestly I don't think the amount of swing potential at that point is a particular worry given you are on a top rope - sorry. There are much worse examples in the centre particularly on the lead walls.
In reply to deaddogsdie:
Ok, I'll have a shufty next week.
Si
> (In reply to SCC)
>
> I quite honestly estimate 5 metres.
>
> I didn't say anything about a slab, that was someone else.
>
> The route is a green 5+ on line 14 of the top rope walls upstairs. The route, as you will also see, does in fact start on line 15 but then moves all the way to the 14 anchor and is listed on the sheet for 14. Do check it out.
>
> I quite honestly estimate 5 metres.
>
> I didn't say anything about a slab, that was someone else.
>
> The route is a green 5+ on line 14 of the top rope walls upstairs. The route, as you will also see, does in fact start on line 15 but then moves all the way to the 14 anchor and is listed on the sheet for 14. Do check it out.
Ok, I'll have a shufty next week.
Si
In reply to royal:
I'm definitely not a hero, hence why it's so ridiculous that I onsighted all those routes!
I'm definitely not a hero, hence why it's so ridiculous that I onsighted all those routes!
In reply to deaddogsdie:
Only visited southern softie friends there once but I had a great day. Expensive, yes, when you're used to paying between £4 and £7 round the Midlands for a climbing session but then I don't know how it compares with other London walls. If you think the routes are soft, climb harder routes. Simples.
Only visited southern softie friends there once but I had a great day. Expensive, yes, when you're used to paying between £4 and £7 round the Midlands for a climbing session but then I don't know how it compares with other London walls. If you think the routes are soft, climb harder routes. Simples.
In reply to plexiglass_nick:
"yes it gets pretty crowded and sorry if we got in your way (and if that is part of your rant)." - None of should be apologising for getting in another's way when we we're all climbing on what should be completely separate lines - that's the whole point! And it's not your fault or mine, or anyone who's actually climbing; it's a problem with route setting.
"The lines 14 and 15 are at max a metre apart at start and finish so five metres is a wild distortion."
That is clearly inaccurate but I can't prove it right now. However, as you seem to be down quite a bit and know who I am (bit weird but fair enough), come give me a shout over the next week or PM me through here and we can have a look at it together and you can hop off at the point at which you're furthest from the belay, when we'll see what happens when you smack into the pillar.
In reply to all:
Cheers for the feedback on the grading, much appreciated and sorry to have been diverted into this unproductive discussion. Best.
"yes it gets pretty crowded and sorry if we got in your way (and if that is part of your rant)." - None of should be apologising for getting in another's way when we we're all climbing on what should be completely separate lines - that's the whole point! And it's not your fault or mine, or anyone who's actually climbing; it's a problem with route setting.
"The lines 14 and 15 are at max a metre apart at start and finish so five metres is a wild distortion."
That is clearly inaccurate but I can't prove it right now. However, as you seem to be down quite a bit and know who I am (bit weird but fair enough), come give me a shout over the next week or PM me through here and we can have a look at it together and you can hop off at the point at which you're furthest from the belay, when we'll see what happens when you smack into the pillar.
In reply to all:
Cheers for the feedback on the grading, much appreciated and sorry to have been diverted into this unproductive discussion. Best.
I used to climb at the castle, until moving from London to Sydney a couple of months ago. I've tried a few climbing centres here, and the bouldering has always been 1 area with mainly overhanging problems. Boulder-wise: No ceilings, no traverses, no slabs. And for sports routes, less leading options.
And I've paid the equivalent of £490 for a yearly membership (which wasn't the most expensive centre), when The Castle yearly membership is £400.
On balance, I'm ahead with the weather and outside rock options, but if it was all about inside climbing, the Castle would win hands down.
I'd agree with the previous poster - enjoy what you've got.
And I've paid the equivalent of £490 for a yearly membership (which wasn't the most expensive centre), when The Castle yearly membership is £400.
On balance, I'm ahead with the weather and outside rock options, but if it was all about inside climbing, the Castle would win hands down.
I'd agree with the previous poster - enjoy what you've got.
In reply to deaddogsdie:
Well you're certainly a hero in my book if you can onsight all those routes. The only person I've seen climbing the high grades on the big 45 degree overhang is one of the american youth team who visited last month (I'm not one for seeing the stars visiting as I'd rather go when it's quieter). I'm not implying you havn't, just that in my humble opinion those routes are very hard and a numeric grade out seems very unrealistic? if that was the case I'd have thought a bunch more people would be climbing them?
Well you're certainly a hero in my book if you can onsight all those routes. The only person I've seen climbing the high grades on the big 45 degree overhang is one of the american youth team who visited last month (I'm not one for seeing the stars visiting as I'd rather go when it's quieter). I'm not implying you havn't, just that in my humble opinion those routes are very hard and a numeric grade out seems very unrealistic? if that was the case I'd have thought a bunch more people would be climbing them?
In reply to deaddogsdie:
That was actually a wild guess! It's entirely possible it was not actually you but any other couple on that 5+. We were trying to do laps on the tufas (also a bit of a pain when it was so busy) and I had a vague memory of folk on the green 5+ that started there and went left. Doubt I can pick you out of a line up - your identity is safe...
Seriously, though, get a ruler out - 5 metres is massive. The walls downstairs are only like 8 metres high. As for swing potential I'll have another look and do the route when I'm next in and have a harness on.
Let's meet and have a chat down the wall as if you have crushed all the routes on the main leading bit I'll nick your beta.
That was actually a wild guess! It's entirely possible it was not actually you but any other couple on that 5+. We were trying to do laps on the tufas (also a bit of a pain when it was so busy) and I had a vague memory of folk on the green 5+ that started there and went left. Doubt I can pick you out of a line up - your identity is safe...
Seriously, though, get a ruler out - 5 metres is massive. The walls downstairs are only like 8 metres high. As for swing potential I'll have another look and do the route when I'm next in and have a harness on.
Let's meet and have a chat down the wall as if you have crushed all the routes on the main leading bit I'll nick your beta.
climbing centres, fitness gyms, house prices, beers, kebabs, clothes, mostly everything outside london are cheaper. But if you are in London £12.50 a session relatively fits the london bill..
In reply to turtlespit: Hey Turtle, where do you climb in sydney?
In reply to royal:
I do apologise - as I said in response to a previous poster who made the same point, I meant a letter grade and made a mistake when I wrote "number" earlier on. Apologies for the confusion, my error.
I do apologise - as I said in response to a previous poster who made the same point, I meant a letter grade and made a mistake when I wrote "number" earlier on. Apologies for the confusion, my error.
In reply to deaddogsdie:
He's (almost) correct. I did this line yesterday and almost tied on to the wrong rope as i hadn't noticed the traversing. It does start on number 15 and finishes on the 14's belay.
Still not much of a problem, as none should be on the 14 because you are using that rope.
If you tie on to the 15 then you could have a problem, but the line weaves 2 metres max.
Not dangerous though, and if you don't want to risk swinging a little bit then don't do it...
He's (almost) correct. I did this line yesterday and almost tied on to the wrong rope as i hadn't noticed the traversing. It does start on number 15 and finishes on the 14's belay.
Still not much of a problem, as none should be on the 14 because you are using that rope.
If you tie on to the 15 then you could have a problem, but the line weaves 2 metres max.
Not dangerous though, and if you don't want to risk swinging a little bit then don't do it...
In reply to Mr Lopez:
And since i'm on the thread already... I personally think the bouldering is graded soft and the leading hard, but i seem to be the only one with this opinion here.
I'd like to see someone who regularly onsights 6c outside flashing the green 6c next to the big overhang...
And since i'm on the thread already... I personally think the bouldering is graded soft and the leading hard, but i seem to be the only one with this opinion here.
I'd like to see someone who regularly onsights 6c outside flashing the green 6c next to the big overhang...
In reply to Mr Lopez:
Out of interest have you done the green and orange(?) spots up the big stepped overhang upstairs (6b), I thought that was particularly harsh but it could just have been a fitness thing as I've not done much roped climbing recently?
Out of interest have you done the green and orange(?) spots up the big stepped overhang upstairs (6b), I thought that was particularly harsh but it could just have been a fitness thing as I've not done much roped climbing recently?
In reply to royal:
excellent!
excellent!
In reply to Reach>Talent:
The latest incarnation of that route is fairly standard in my opinion. It feels pumpy if you are not used to anything that steep (which is quite rare at 6b) but you are on wodging great jugs which are mostly the right way up and there is a rest/shakeout at half height.
Try the green going up the overhanging blunt arete on the pillar (17.5) - now that is fierce for 6b+.
The latest incarnation of that route is fairly standard in my opinion. It feels pumpy if you are not used to anything that steep (which is quite rare at 6b) but you are on wodging great jugs which are mostly the right way up and there is a rest/shakeout at half height.
Try the green going up the overhanging blunt arete on the pillar (17.5) - now that is fierce for 6b+.
In reply to Reach>Talent:
Yes, gave it a try to warm down once. I think that one is about right for the grade if you find the rest position about half way up. It's jugs all the way bar the malevolently placed slopers in the vertical section. No weird moves or surprises, just very steep.
Now, if you ask me about the beige 6b (possibly +, i don't remember) starting below the arch and going through the corner... That's what i call a sandbag!!!
Yes, gave it a try to warm down once. I think that one is about right for the grade if you find the rest position about half way up. It's jugs all the way bar the malevolently placed slopers in the vertical section. No weird moves or surprises, just very steep.
Now, if you ask me about the beige 6b (possibly +, i don't remember) starting below the arch and going through the corner... That's what i call a sandbag!!!
In reply to plexiglass_nick:
Damn right that is! And according to the people above you have to take a couple of grades to that, so it really is 6a...
...Yeah right.
> Try the green going up the overhanging blunt arete on the pillar (17.5) - now that is fierce for 6b+.
Damn right that is! And according to the people above you have to take a couple of grades to that, so it really is 6a...
...Yeah right.
In reply to Mr Lopez:
Likewise, hello! funny when you only get talking to people on the internet that you see several times a week...!
Likewise, hello! funny when you only get talking to people on the internet that you see several times a week...!
In reply to Mr Lopez:
Is that a Chapel route, by any chance...?
> (In reply to mkean)
>
> ... That's what i call a sandbag!!!
>
> ... That's what i call a sandbag!!!
Is that a Chapel route, by any chance...?
In reply to deaddogsdie:
Perhaps you Castle regulars can offer me some perspective on this issue. I went to the Castle this morning for the first time in a year and found that the bouldering grades had toughened up? I was able to do everything up to V2 last year, but found a couple of V1's, today, quite a bit more crimpy than last year. Could be a memory issue, but is the general consensus that the grading is more accurate than a year ago or not?
I'm still a newbie restarting after an enforced layoff, so I'm sure you understand my need to make sense of what I am doing.
Perhaps you Castle regulars can offer me some perspective on this issue. I went to the Castle this morning for the first time in a year and found that the bouldering grades had toughened up? I was able to do everything up to V2 last year, but found a couple of V1's, today, quite a bit more crimpy than last year. Could be a memory issue, but is the general consensus that the grading is more accurate than a year ago or not?
I'm still a newbie restarting after an enforced layoff, so I'm sure you understand my need to make sense of what I am doing.
I go there all the time, its a great place. Had a butchers at the route in question today, yes.. it goes out a little, but its no big deal, if you don't wana risk the swing don't get on it..
I'd be perfectly happy to go up there and jump off, infact i think i might do it this week if i can get a mate to belay me, a lil bit of spice to a 5+, why not
I'd be perfectly happy to go up there and jump off, infact i think i might do it this week if i can get a mate to belay me, a lil bit of spice to a 5+, why not
In reply to Fishmate:
I've noticed a few very tough crimpy v1 and v2 lately so dont think you're alone Maybe just because I've been doing a lot more bouldering lately and managing to get up more of the overhanging stuff, but I'm really enjoying the routes that are getting put up lately.
I've noticed a few very tough crimpy v1 and v2 lately so dont think you're alone Maybe just because I've been doing a lot more bouldering lately and managing to get up more of the overhanging stuff, but I'm really enjoying the routes that are getting put up lately.
In reply to deaddogsdie: 5 metres!!!!! seen the climb, climbed the climb. Your perception is well off!!!! 2.5 at the most
In reply to Fishmate:
... restarting after an enforced layoff
i thought you may have had a point until i re-read these bits ... maybe you've just got weaker!!!
> (In reply to deaddogsdie)
I went to the Castle this morning for the first time in a year ... I was able to do everything up to V2 last year, but found a couple of V1's, today, quite a bit more crimpy than last year. > ... restarting after an enforced layoff
i thought you may have had a point until i re-read these bits ... maybe you've just got weaker!!!
In reply to deaddogsdie: given your issues regarding wandering lines and pricing why don't you just put a big ladder up against a wall and put a cordon round it. then you and your girlfriend could climb in peace and safe verticality for free - and leave the rest of us laterally promiscuous free spending daredevils to risk our lives at the castle.
In reply to t-dawg: lol, wonder what happens if he goes outside and there's a griddle traverse in it???? blame God???
In reply to Mr Lopez:
is that the one thats a slight overhang - usually has an orange and fluro route on there too?
is that the one thats a slight overhang - usually has an orange and fluro route on there too?
In reply to samoflak:
Yes, that one. I reckon the fluoro 6c is easier...
> (In reply to Mr Lopez)
>
> is that the one thats a slight overhang - usually has an orange and fluro route on there too?
>
> is that the one thats a slight overhang - usually has an orange and fluro route on there too?
Yes, that one. I reckon the fluoro 6c is easier...
In reply to Mr Lopez: yeah it looked tricky, will def give it a go
In reply to royal: "It's got just about every type and angle of climbing you can ask for."
So where is the slab climbing ?
The place is super busy and does the job for many people, so well done to them. Personally I don't particularly like the place and have found instructors regularly giving the big'un just 'cause you on a reserved route that is empty. Strangely I was not intimidated by someone who weighs less than 10 stone. Just my personal opinion. It obviously does a great job for many many punters.
So where is the slab climbing ?
The place is super busy and does the job for many people, so well done to them. Personally I don't particularly like the place and have found instructors regularly giving the big'un just 'cause you on a reserved route that is empty. Strangely I was not intimidated by someone who weighs less than 10 stone. Just my personal opinion. It obviously does a great job for many many punters.
In reply to robdan:
Do you mean where is the slabby bouldering, the slabby top roping or the slabby leading?
I found the slabby climbing was generally found on the slabs which can be found on all 3 floors!
Do you mean where is the slabby bouldering, the slabby top roping or the slabby leading?
I found the slabby climbing was generally found on the slabs which can be found on all 3 floors!
In reply to Reach>Talent: Oh yes, bit of a tw*t there, I remember the slabs upstairs. Oops I should've gone to specsavers !
In reply to robdan: Thats odd. Instructors are generally quite happy for you to use empty reserved routes and finish your climb when they arrive.
In the years I have been going there no one has ever "given it the big un".
Yes the castle is very busy but no more so than any other london wall.
In the years I have been going there no one has ever "given it the big un".
Yes the castle is very busy but no more so than any other london wall.
so the main complaint seems to be that... its too busy, ie.. popular? Surely that means the climbings good?.. f*ck knows. I like it, all the staff are super friendly, maybe someone farted nearby and they thought it was you?
Its pretty much empty in there till 6:30/7. If you can't make that from 8:30-10 its also pretty empty, don't see the beef myself.
I hate slabs, but there's an entire boulder wall dedicated to it, the downstairs panels have some slabby problems sometimes and then there's the whole route area upstairs opposite the feature wall thats motherf*cking slabs...
Its pretty much empty in there till 6:30/7. If you can't make that from 8:30-10 its also pretty empty, don't see the beef myself.
I hate slabs, but there's an entire boulder wall dedicated to it, the downstairs panels have some slabby problems sometimes and then there's the whole route area upstairs opposite the feature wall thats motherf*cking slabs...
In reply to daveyji: To be fair and balanced given my previous post I agree that the vast majority of staff and instructors that I have come across there have been very pleasant, was prob just a one-off.
In reply to deaddogsdie:
It is neither poor, nor unimaginative in my view. As for grading - does it matter? It's the same for everyone. I like the place. The people are friendly. The variety is good. Depends what you want to use an indoor wall for I suppose.
It is neither poor, nor unimaginative in my view. As for grading - does it matter? It's the same for everyone. I like the place. The people are friendly. The variety is good. Depends what you want to use an indoor wall for I suppose.
I've been climbing there for a couple of years and have no complaints - I mostly boulder, and it's got lots of stuff, lots of variety, imaginative routes, regular resetting, lots of nice little initiatives (the various mini-competitions, the circuits where they don't give a precise grade, the recent thing of not announcing the route-setters grades until the punters have had a chance to say what they thought the routes were), friendly regulars. It's expensive, but so's everything in london. It's crowded between six and half eight, so turn up early or stay late if that bothers you.
They seem to grade the bouldering harder than the Arch or Mile End (although it seems a bit softer than Nottingham, which is where I climbed before.) Although having said that, what's with that blue (V4-V6) route at the left end of the panels downstairs that feels more like a stiff V1?
They seem to grade the bouldering harder than the Arch or Mile End (although it seems a bit softer than Nottingham, which is where I climbed before.) Although having said that, what's with that blue (V4-V6) route at the left end of the panels downstairs that feels more like a stiff V1?
yeah - haven't the foggiest man. The last set that was there on that wall also had a blue in the same place that was just as easy.
Maybe its a psychological thing they're on? - set the odd easy blue circuit so that more people will try em?
Maybe its a psychological thing they're on? - set the odd easy blue circuit so that more people will try em?
Haha, just noticed this. I've just started to manage the odd blue boulder route down there and did that one the other day. It's definitely no where near as hard as the others. Agree on a stiff V1!
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