In reply to Ramblin dave: Ever since the Biscuit Factory/Arch has been around i have been able to customise my training which has meant for me an increase in climbing specific strength,less injury anda general feeling that for as long as I live in London this for me is by far the best use of indoor facilities in London.
Why ?
The reason is simple...the Arch is has very good training area the 'boards' are very hold dense(both good,bad and very bad) and better than anything do not follow the elitist pattern of thinking that only the elite should have access to this form of training facility.
Anyhow the result is an example of an exellent training facility but you do need to know what you are using it for in the long run.
I have had others asking me what I am doing and I try to explain that this is but one facet of indoor climbing that is helping me personally more than following the coloured circuits and is more creative for me but might not be the right thing for them.
Its not the 'bread and butter' of the new big Bouldering walls I know but it remains a very valid facet of them.