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Place-holder; stats when I get home from climbing on the slate
In reply to ExBristolian:
Cheers Ally. Trad or sport? Am i right or were you working a big number with Mischa recently? Meant to ask you the other evening.
This week has seen gains and the start of 'proper' training now i've eased myself in over the last few weeks with no aches or pains.
Had a good routes session. 12 routes (done in triples) topping out with 2 7a's. Lots of failures ( worst on a 6b+ where Ian Vickers mocked my chicken winging). It was 11 routes in and i was beasted. More of these planned.
ALso a boulder session. New set. 30 problems done up to V4 all flashed. Got the V5 on the steep side from last week first go I hadn't looked at the top but struggled through it first go. It didn't get any easier. Can't land one move on the other but i'm hopeful for the next session. I also tried some of the harder stuff. Gave it big effort, but nowhere near.
This week:
1 routes session
1 boulder session
1 fingerboard
Got the kids all week so it may be a bit tricky but the routes session is the priority.
Cheers Ally. Trad or sport? Am i right or were you working a big number with Mischa recently? Meant to ask you the other evening.
This week has seen gains and the start of 'proper' training now i've eased myself in over the last few weeks with no aches or pains.
Had a good routes session. 12 routes (done in triples) topping out with 2 7a's. Lots of failures ( worst on a 6b+ where Ian Vickers mocked my chicken winging). It was 11 routes in and i was beasted. More of these planned.
ALso a boulder session. New set. 30 problems done up to V4 all flashed. Got the V5 on the steep side from last week first go I hadn't looked at the top but struggled through it first go. It didn't get any easier. Can't land one move on the other but i'm hopeful for the next session. I also tried some of the harder stuff. Gave it big effort, but nowhere near.
This week:
1 routes session
1 boulder session
1 fingerboard
Got the kids all week so it may be a bit tricky but the routes session is the priority.
In reply to ExBristolian:
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) 12st
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st
Weight - 12st 4lbs (2lbs loss)
M - 250 dish tucks + asthma attack all night long baby yeah!!!
T - Orrible asthma attack contd
W - 7 mile walk around Malham Cove, Tarn etc
T - Rest
F - 300 dish tucks
S - Rest / DIY
S - DIY + 200 dish tucks
Monthly Avg - 72%
Yearly Avg - 66%
Good week considering. On Monday I had a bit of a chesty cold and combined with wallpapering the bedroom and a bunch of other stupid activities led me to having an asthma attack which lasted all night long. Which meant no sleep on Monday night. At all. Tuesday we drove up to Malham. Well my wife did, I slept in the passenger seat. The fresh air recovered me a bit. But I was bad on Tuesday night as well. But we went out for a nice walk around the Cove, Tarn etc. I'd been expecting to be blown away by Malham, from a climbing point of view, it left me a bit cold I guess. No real actual lines. It's a lovely cliff, don't get me wrong. I'm sure the climbing is actually good. Just not inspiring really. Goredale Scar was much more interesting and while the lines still aren't amazing, I'd like to climb there. I noticed that AJM and tompr have done Cave Route Right which looks cool. Bit of weight loss and I'm generally feeling quite well rested now, which is good. So hope to keep up the weight loss and keep the tick over going.
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) 12st
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st
Weight - 12st 4lbs (2lbs loss)
M - 250 dish tucks + asthma attack all night long baby yeah!!!
T - Orrible asthma attack contd
W - 7 mile walk around Malham Cove, Tarn etc
T - Rest
F - 300 dish tucks
S - Rest / DIY
S - DIY + 200 dish tucks
Monthly Avg - 72%
Yearly Avg - 66%
Good week considering. On Monday I had a bit of a chesty cold and combined with wallpapering the bedroom and a bunch of other stupid activities led me to having an asthma attack which lasted all night long. Which meant no sleep on Monday night. At all. Tuesday we drove up to Malham. Well my wife did, I slept in the passenger seat. The fresh air recovered me a bit. But I was bad on Tuesday night as well. But we went out for a nice walk around the Cove, Tarn etc. I'd been expecting to be blown away by Malham, from a climbing point of view, it left me a bit cold I guess. No real actual lines. It's a lovely cliff, don't get me wrong. I'm sure the climbing is actually good. Just not inspiring really. Goredale Scar was much more interesting and while the lines still aren't amazing, I'd like to climb there. I noticed that AJM and tompr have done Cave Route Right which looks cool. Bit of weight loss and I'm generally feeling quite well rested now, which is good. So hope to keep up the weight loss and keep the tick over going.
In reply to ExBristolian: Hope it was as good on the slate as it was at Avon today. Absolutely stunning, glorious weather and NO TRAFFIC!
M - Yoga then Boulder @ Iffley, dozen+ problems.
T - Yoga and Boulder @ Brookes, 2x12 blocs (interrupted by kids group session) then sent one of the trickier problems I'd tried previously.
W - Boulder @ Brookes, 4x12 blocs.
T - working
F - working
S - working
S - Trad @ Avon Gorge (Sea Walls Area) and No match for crag id:46
New Horizons II (E2 5c) 2nd
Arms Race (E4 5c) lead rpt (no falls but used a stabilisation bolt as cheating foothold )
Them (E3 6a) retro flash (2nded badly many years ago)
Central Buttress (E1 5a) 2nd
Another decent week and I was feeling good today. A bit pissed off with my mixed performance on Arms Race but very happy with my lead of Them which is a great route. As a bonus, we got ice cream at the van after topping out on it
M - Yoga then Boulder @ Iffley, dozen+ problems.
T - Yoga and Boulder @ Brookes, 2x12 blocs (interrupted by kids group session) then sent one of the trickier problems I'd tried previously.
W - Boulder @ Brookes, 4x12 blocs.
T - working
F - working
S - working
S - Trad @ Avon Gorge (Sea Walls Area) and No match for crag id:46
New Horizons II (E2 5c) 2nd
Arms Race (E4 5c) lead rpt (no falls but used a stabilisation bolt as cheating foothold )
Them (E3 6a) retro flash (2nded badly many years ago)
Central Buttress (E1 5a) 2nd
Another decent week and I was feeling good today. A bit pissed off with my mixed performance on Arms Race but very happy with my lead of Them which is a great route. As a bonus, we got ice cream at the van after topping out on it
1
In reply to ExBristolian:
Morning Campers,
Slate, Ally - whoop whoop - love a bit of the ol' purpley/grey stuff!
Training Diary WC 19/10/15
Half Term - Huzzah!
Monday – Moved 1 ½ tonnes of dirt after work then; Tempo Run: 10.8K in 46:35 at 4:18m/km pace with 240m of ascent 4:07m/km GAP. Mixed on and off road in the dark again. Lovin’ the night off roadin’!
Tuesday – TCA with Tom and Nick: ticked two more Yellows (two to go – one really hard and one odd dyno) Ticked another Blue (hardest circuit) and got shown some useful beta by Nick for my slopey green 7A project on the Mothership – muchly! Finished with 16 mins of Aero Pow reps (ish) 1 on/ 1 off. First rep was of the steep 6c+ on the steep board and then into the juggy 6a+ until boxed (3 mins). Then dropped down to the less steep 6b before trying a less steep 7a out of curiousity. Went OK but a bit boxed generally after 2 ½ hours of bouldering. Got distracted when having a drink on 16 mins and didn’t finish the 30 mins that I was aiming for.
Wednesday – Easy Run with Tom: 10.1KM in 46:58 at 4:37km/h with 148m of ascent (4:33m/km GAP). Ran at the speed of chat and then ramped it up towards the end when we realised that Tom could get close to a PB. Good times.
Thursday – Huntsham: Working The Loop (8a) from the top of The Flakes. Consistently got to the crimp/pinch near the end on 6/7 goes. Should've done it on first two goes but fluffed my sequence at the end - doh. Felt good though, conditions were perfect. Tried High Blow(7B+/7C?) twice but pooped, best effort was 19/43 moves. Finished with a repeat of Golden Bicep sit (6C+). A great afternoon. Did 2 hours of ‘landscaping’ - subsurface prep and flagstone laying into the dark - when I got home.
Friday – Diggin’/sleeperin’ all day.
Saturday – Shovelled another 1 ½ tonnes of dirt into the Landy again (in the rain, no less – I can feel the sympathy pouring in ). Followed this with a 3 ½ hour session at Bloc with Tom Tom and Rosa. Did a lot of technique coaching (some of it was even useful) and ticked a few yellows (in the high 6s) and a few problems on the front wall (also in the 6s) before 40 mins of Aero Pow 1 on/1 off on the circuit board. This was mostly on the excellent black 6b+ (58 moves consistently) but also tinkered on a 7a and 6c+ when the black was taken (shorter reps on these but I was onsighting and definitely not fresh so I’ll let myself off). Did another 2 hours of ‘landscaping’ once home.
Sunday – Morning of concreting, another couple of sleepering/digging in the afternoon and a Tempo Run in the evening: 16km on/off road in 1:11:58 at 4:28m/km pace with 251m of ascent (4:20m/km GAP). Switched of the headtorch for 2km of it and ran along a rural country lane illuminated just by the moon – fantastic!
STGs
Get the garden mostly done (just hardcore and patio laying to do) by the end of this week.
Up the difficulty on the ol’ Aero Pow intervals to 6c/6c+.
Slopers, slopers, slopers (and other weaknesses).
Climb The Loop from the ‘horn’.
Do more routes outside or inside to fix lack temporary lack of rope clipping ability (much better in Avon – really concentrated on smoothness, calmness and resting! None last week.
Keep up with the antagonistic stuff. At least one BM session a week – nope – doing lots of physical work in the garden though so will start the core stuff – thanks for the ideas, Dan and Ally - when that’s done.
Weight = 69.9kg
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
Morning Campers,
Slate, Ally - whoop whoop - love a bit of the ol' purpley/grey stuff!
Training Diary WC 19/10/15
Half Term - Huzzah!
Monday – Moved 1 ½ tonnes of dirt after work then; Tempo Run: 10.8K in 46:35 at 4:18m/km pace with 240m of ascent 4:07m/km GAP. Mixed on and off road in the dark again. Lovin’ the night off roadin’!
Tuesday – TCA with Tom and Nick: ticked two more Yellows (two to go – one really hard and one odd dyno) Ticked another Blue (hardest circuit) and got shown some useful beta by Nick for my slopey green 7A project on the Mothership – muchly! Finished with 16 mins of Aero Pow reps (ish) 1 on/ 1 off. First rep was of the steep 6c+ on the steep board and then into the juggy 6a+ until boxed (3 mins). Then dropped down to the less steep 6b before trying a less steep 7a out of curiousity. Went OK but a bit boxed generally after 2 ½ hours of bouldering. Got distracted when having a drink on 16 mins and didn’t finish the 30 mins that I was aiming for.
Wednesday – Easy Run with Tom: 10.1KM in 46:58 at 4:37km/h with 148m of ascent (4:33m/km GAP). Ran at the speed of chat and then ramped it up towards the end when we realised that Tom could get close to a PB. Good times.
Thursday – Huntsham: Working The Loop (8a) from the top of The Flakes. Consistently got to the crimp/pinch near the end on 6/7 goes. Should've done it on first two goes but fluffed my sequence at the end - doh. Felt good though, conditions were perfect. Tried High Blow(7B+/7C?) twice but pooped, best effort was 19/43 moves. Finished with a repeat of Golden Bicep sit (6C+). A great afternoon. Did 2 hours of ‘landscaping’ - subsurface prep and flagstone laying into the dark - when I got home.
Friday – Diggin’/sleeperin’ all day.
Saturday – Shovelled another 1 ½ tonnes of dirt into the Landy again (in the rain, no less – I can feel the sympathy pouring in ). Followed this with a 3 ½ hour session at Bloc with Tom Tom and Rosa. Did a lot of technique coaching (some of it was even useful) and ticked a few yellows (in the high 6s) and a few problems on the front wall (also in the 6s) before 40 mins of Aero Pow 1 on/1 off on the circuit board. This was mostly on the excellent black 6b+ (58 moves consistently) but also tinkered on a 7a and 6c+ when the black was taken (shorter reps on these but I was onsighting and definitely not fresh so I’ll let myself off). Did another 2 hours of ‘landscaping’ once home.
Sunday – Morning of concreting, another couple of sleepering/digging in the afternoon and a Tempo Run in the evening: 16km on/off road in 1:11:58 at 4:28m/km pace with 251m of ascent (4:20m/km GAP). Switched of the headtorch for 2km of it and ran along a rural country lane illuminated just by the moon – fantastic!
STGs
Get the garden mostly done (just hardcore and patio laying to do) by the end of this week.
Up the difficulty on the ol’ Aero Pow intervals to 6c/6c+.
Slopers, slopers, slopers (and other weaknesses).
Climb The Loop from the ‘horn’.
Do more routes outside or inside to fix lack temporary lack of rope clipping ability (much better in Avon – really concentrated on smoothness, calmness and resting! None last week.
Keep up with the antagonistic stuff. At least one BM session a week – nope – doing lots of physical work in the garden though so will start the core stuff – thanks for the ideas, Dan and Ally - when that’s done.
Weight = 69.9kg
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
1
In reply to ExBristolian:
Been in hols for a couple of weeks, week one did nothing, week two did a lot of trekking, week three......
M: rest
T: Swung about on a bar at the hotel doing footless stuff until I got flapper
W: Lazy
T: Travel
F: Travel and then went to Boulder UK. Despite no sleep for many hours I managed to maintain grades including flashing a 6 and getting another second go but felt weak on small holds
S: Wall paper stripping
S: Malham, busy so skipped warm up and stick clipped GBH, working it as I went. Two more TR goes getting some links that make me think it is possible. Excited.
Must be the only person to have gone trekking in Nepal and come back heavier but not critically so.
Been in hols for a couple of weeks, week one did nothing, week two did a lot of trekking, week three......
M: rest
T: Swung about on a bar at the hotel doing footless stuff until I got flapper
W: Lazy
T: Travel
F: Travel and then went to Boulder UK. Despite no sleep for many hours I managed to maintain grades including flashing a 6 and getting another second go but felt weak on small holds
S: Wall paper stripping
S: Malham, busy so skipped warm up and stick clipped GBH, working it as I went. Two more TR goes getting some links that make me think it is possible. Excited.
Must be the only person to have gone trekking in Nepal and come back heavier but not critically so.
1
In reply to ExBristolian:
STG = another 7b by the end of Tenerife trip (going for c10 days over New Year)
MTG = at least 3x7b and 1x7b+ in 2016
BHAG = 8a by 40
M – WW Oven bouldering. All the V0, V1 & V1-2 circuits (about 8 in each circuit). All bar 2 of the V2-V3 circuit. Mostly flashed, will try the harder ones later in the week. Best result was getting my gf to agree maybe bouldering wasn’t too bad and she might consider joining me once a week
Thur – WW bouldering Oven & Fridge. All the V1 in Fridge, 3 or 4 other V2/V3. Couple of the nails V1-V3 there and one of the V3-V5 (much easier than either of the 1-3).
Fri – Light leading session at WW. 8 routes up to 6c.
Sun – WW bouldering. 1 of the V3/V4 and a tricky V2. Close on a couple of other cV4s that should go soon.
Better week this week, should get in 3 sessions this coming week as well. Feeling the benefit from the focus on bouldering.
STG = another 7b by the end of Tenerife trip (going for c10 days over New Year)
MTG = at least 3x7b and 1x7b+ in 2016
BHAG = 8a by 40
M – WW Oven bouldering. All the V0, V1 & V1-2 circuits (about 8 in each circuit). All bar 2 of the V2-V3 circuit. Mostly flashed, will try the harder ones later in the week. Best result was getting my gf to agree maybe bouldering wasn’t too bad and she might consider joining me once a week
Thur – WW bouldering Oven & Fridge. All the V1 in Fridge, 3 or 4 other V2/V3. Couple of the nails V1-V3 there and one of the V3-V5 (much easier than either of the 1-3).
Fri – Light leading session at WW. 8 routes up to 6c.
Sun – WW bouldering. 1 of the V3/V4 and a tricky V2. Close on a couple of other cV4s that should go soon.
Better week this week, should get in 3 sessions this coming week as well. Feeling the benefit from the focus on bouldering.
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:
Dire weather in the mountains - rainfall radar seemed to show we were in the only wet place in the country (bar Scotland)
Nice one - Them could easily be E4 - certainly as hard as Arms Race IMHO
> Hope it was as good on the slate as it was at Avon today. Absolutely stunning, glorious weather and NO TRAFFIC!
Dire weather in the mountains - rainfall radar seemed to show we were in the only wet place in the country (bar Scotland)
> S - Trad @ Avon Gorge (Sea Walls Area) and No match for crag id:46
> Them (E3 6a) retro flash (2nded badly many years ago)
Nice one - Them could easily be E4 - certainly as hard as Arms Race IMHO
In reply to ExBristolian:
Cheers Ally,
Very sensible week for me, which is out of character, but I'm determined not to let my elbows get the best of me!
M: Strength and Conditioning; decent session, replaced bicep curls with eccentric curls, no issues.
T: Routes indoor; Aero session 3x 15mins on 6a+/6b, really pleased, everything felt good but I didn't push it, very restrained for me! There is definitely some stirrings in the tennis elbow area so I'm being super careful.
W: Exercise ball core; still loving this, finally managed a full minute balancing on just my knees without toppling over
T: Strength and Conditioning; Awesome session, upped all weights and/or reps and really pushed it (aside from bicep curls) Needed a bit of a sit down afterwards, it was that good.
F:
S: Furniture shifting and a bit of painting.
S: Winspit again! That's 4 out of 5 weekends, this autumn weather is unbelievable. My wife is now having a mental battle with her project, she can do it physically, she now keeps psyching herself out and messing up unnecessarily. This is her first real project route so its a big learning experience. It's also now my most-repeated 7a by some margin, I've done it maybe 7 times, it's amazing how familiarity makes something so much easier, I can put the clips in whilst chatting about the moves and pointing out sequence suggestions, while feeling like I'm climbing a 6b. Goes to show how much things can improve with repetition.
I ticked one more route off the list, an awkward 6b+ with a tough start and a walk to the top. The bottom stumped me so much I ended up redpointing it!
So, the left elbow is a little tender in the tennis elbow region, the right seems to have settled and feels good, fingers crossed I can keep it that way.
As usual, the pain feels...different to last time, slightly different actions and movements aggravate it, the pain is slightly duller too. I'm going to stick to easy climbing and a good chunk of flexbar and weight-on-a-stick to try and sort it out, this will sound odd but it feels like something that will actually heal this time, unlike last time when it just seemed like a permanent fixture in my life.
Also, good news, the dull ache in the elbow seems to have gone! Hurrah! I think the easy couple of weeks really helped. Just this left tennis elbow to go now then! Might even be able to climb hard one day....
Cheers Ally,
Very sensible week for me, which is out of character, but I'm determined not to let my elbows get the best of me!
M: Strength and Conditioning; decent session, replaced bicep curls with eccentric curls, no issues.
T: Routes indoor; Aero session 3x 15mins on 6a+/6b, really pleased, everything felt good but I didn't push it, very restrained for me! There is definitely some stirrings in the tennis elbow area so I'm being super careful.
W: Exercise ball core; still loving this, finally managed a full minute balancing on just my knees without toppling over
T: Strength and Conditioning; Awesome session, upped all weights and/or reps and really pushed it (aside from bicep curls) Needed a bit of a sit down afterwards, it was that good.
F:
S: Furniture shifting and a bit of painting.
S: Winspit again! That's 4 out of 5 weekends, this autumn weather is unbelievable. My wife is now having a mental battle with her project, she can do it physically, she now keeps psyching herself out and messing up unnecessarily. This is her first real project route so its a big learning experience. It's also now my most-repeated 7a by some margin, I've done it maybe 7 times, it's amazing how familiarity makes something so much easier, I can put the clips in whilst chatting about the moves and pointing out sequence suggestions, while feeling like I'm climbing a 6b. Goes to show how much things can improve with repetition.
I ticked one more route off the list, an awkward 6b+ with a tough start and a walk to the top. The bottom stumped me so much I ended up redpointing it!
So, the left elbow is a little tender in the tennis elbow region, the right seems to have settled and feels good, fingers crossed I can keep it that way.
As usual, the pain feels...different to last time, slightly different actions and movements aggravate it, the pain is slightly duller too. I'm going to stick to easy climbing and a good chunk of flexbar and weight-on-a-stick to try and sort it out, this will sound odd but it feels like something that will actually heal this time, unlike last time when it just seemed like a permanent fixture in my life.
Also, good news, the dull ache in the elbow seems to have gone! Hurrah! I think the easy couple of weeks really helped. Just this left tennis elbow to go now then! Might even be able to climb hard one day....
In reply to ExBristolian:
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=626869
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of
physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards acheiving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Psyche video of the week: vimeo.com/73040942 - wow - look how fast Ondra climbs!
Just Tintin; how’s Morocco?
Dandan82; FO campus can be very intense - take it easy on the DIY/elbow aches. Any word from Mitbo monster coach?
Hms; looks like a great week. Fingers should be getting stronger? Shoulder feeling better this week?
Nick Russell; E5 psyche! Nemo is very approachable if you commit on the crux instead of hanging around placing poor gear. Plenty of other Avon E5’s are easier/bolder, so you’re probably not far off being a consistent E5 leader
Joughton; more quality sessions. Keep it ticking over – Maybe get out and sample some County sandstone to find some psyche?
The Ex-Engineer; any plans to get back to the Tor anytime soon?
Ian Bell; More granite skin trashing this weekend?
Planetmarshall; good reconnaissance is never time wasted. Is the ridge now a spring objective?
Ally Smith; as per last week: Keep plugging away. Don’t forget the rehab, core and antag works. Repeat: stay off the cakes and don’t forget to bolt some newbies!
Biscuit; how did the boulder benchmarking go?
Spenser; How’s the ankle progressing? Off the crutches for longer this week?
Humperdink; Big volume week; how’s the tight hamstring?
Mattrm; gotten over your dish-tucks lassitude?
Richard Popp; successful trip to Portland/week off?
Exile; have you started to notice an increase in power after doing some quality sessions?
Flopsicle; what did the GP say? Meniscus tear in your knee?
Joyce; ah, the ‘cliffe – repeat visit soon to tick things off – I’d be keen for a rematch. Core this week?
0.5viking; what did you learn from the 3-day course?
Absentees; AJM, Tyler; Mutl3y; alexm198;
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=626869
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of
physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards acheiving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Psyche video of the week: vimeo.com/73040942 - wow - look how fast Ondra climbs!
Just Tintin; how’s Morocco?
Dandan82; FO campus can be very intense - take it easy on the DIY/elbow aches. Any word from Mitbo monster coach?
Hms; looks like a great week. Fingers should be getting stronger? Shoulder feeling better this week?
Nick Russell; E5 psyche! Nemo is very approachable if you commit on the crux instead of hanging around placing poor gear. Plenty of other Avon E5’s are easier/bolder, so you’re probably not far off being a consistent E5 leader
Joughton; more quality sessions. Keep it ticking over – Maybe get out and sample some County sandstone to find some psyche?
The Ex-Engineer; any plans to get back to the Tor anytime soon?
Ian Bell; More granite skin trashing this weekend?
Planetmarshall; good reconnaissance is never time wasted. Is the ridge now a spring objective?
Ally Smith; as per last week: Keep plugging away. Don’t forget the rehab, core and antag works. Repeat: stay off the cakes and don’t forget to bolt some newbies!
Biscuit; how did the boulder benchmarking go?
Spenser; How’s the ankle progressing? Off the crutches for longer this week?
Humperdink; Big volume week; how’s the tight hamstring?
Mattrm; gotten over your dish-tucks lassitude?
Richard Popp; successful trip to Portland/week off?
Exile; have you started to notice an increase in power after doing some quality sessions?
Flopsicle; what did the GP say? Meniscus tear in your knee?
Joyce; ah, the ‘cliffe – repeat visit soon to tick things off – I’d be keen for a rematch. Core this week?
0.5viking; what did you learn from the 3-day course?
Absentees; AJM, Tyler; Mutl3y; alexm198;
In reply to ExBristolian:
Hi fit clubbers - work, training, dating, etc are conspiring against me - can anyone else take on FC for a few weeks?
Ta,
Ally
Hi fit clubbers - work, training, dating, etc are conspiring against me - can anyone else take on FC for a few weeks?
Ta,
Ally
In reply to ExBristolian:
OK week but shoulder still grumbling and I managed to jar it again yesterday which was a bit of a blow.
M - cycle commute, cycle to city centre, pummelled by Nina, plus given a new set ofexercises.
T - cycle commute. UCR routes. Trued to stay sensible as first indoor routes session ofr a while. 15 routes, inc onsighting 2 new 6cs without drama. Tried a new 7a but closed down failing to get established over the top overhang - couldn't find anywhere to put my feet.
W - cycle commute. Shoulder sore from yesterday.
T - cycle commute. UCR circuits, quite a lot with fairly swift turnaround. Retried a horrid 7a circuit I'd failed on before. Got to 33, could do all the other moves but couldn't string it together in one. It is tough! Also tried that foor on campusing. The foot on rungs are teensy so my best was 4 iterations of the pattern.
F - shunting at Armistice. Progress made but top still eluding me. Lots of loud yoof about and the diminishing leaf cover meant I was only just hidden from view which made me more than a tad nervous.
S - lots of urban walking, many miles, but nothing else.
S - Armistice with a real person to climb with! Worked out seq for top of Remembrance but it relies on a hideously thin foot swap. He could totally avoid that bit by lanking to the ok pocket full stretch with the other hand. I still have a stopper move at 1/2 height. Had a lead attempt. Hadn't realised that on the ledge I had picked up a tiny leaf on the tip of my shoe, which then greased off a miniscule foothold jerking me full weight onto left shoulder. Why does it only ever happen that way round? After much shaking out & swearing had another go and got the 3rd clip before the stopper move stopped me - I'd hoped that it would feel easier on lead.
Am just praying that no serious damage done. Feel sore today but not too bad. Also not sure when I can get back to Armistice as it needs good dry conditions but the forecast at the end of the week is looking distinctly damp.
btw Joyce, I did mail you last week but no reply?
OK week but shoulder still grumbling and I managed to jar it again yesterday which was a bit of a blow.
M - cycle commute, cycle to city centre, pummelled by Nina, plus given a new set ofexercises.
T - cycle commute. UCR routes. Trued to stay sensible as first indoor routes session ofr a while. 15 routes, inc onsighting 2 new 6cs without drama. Tried a new 7a but closed down failing to get established over the top overhang - couldn't find anywhere to put my feet.
W - cycle commute. Shoulder sore from yesterday.
T - cycle commute. UCR circuits, quite a lot with fairly swift turnaround. Retried a horrid 7a circuit I'd failed on before. Got to 33, could do all the other moves but couldn't string it together in one. It is tough! Also tried that foor on campusing. The foot on rungs are teensy so my best was 4 iterations of the pattern.
F - shunting at Armistice. Progress made but top still eluding me. Lots of loud yoof about and the diminishing leaf cover meant I was only just hidden from view which made me more than a tad nervous.
S - lots of urban walking, many miles, but nothing else.
S - Armistice with a real person to climb with! Worked out seq for top of Remembrance but it relies on a hideously thin foot swap. He could totally avoid that bit by lanking to the ok pocket full stretch with the other hand. I still have a stopper move at 1/2 height. Had a lead attempt. Hadn't realised that on the ledge I had picked up a tiny leaf on the tip of my shoe, which then greased off a miniscule foothold jerking me full weight onto left shoulder. Why does it only ever happen that way round? After much shaking out & swearing had another go and got the 3rd clip before the stopper move stopped me - I'd hoped that it would feel easier on lead.
Am just praying that no serious damage done. Feel sore today but not too bad. Also not sure when I can get back to Armistice as it needs good dry conditions but the forecast at the end of the week is looking distinctly damp.
btw Joyce, I did mail you last week but no reply?
Post edited at 12:00
In reply to ExBristolian:
Stilted progress this week. Some good sessions, some bad, some lurgy. Work very busy.
MTG (by end of 2015)
Do an 8a slab; The Medium or Tony Slab Chamonix?
Do some progressive headpointing leading up to the Ogwen project.
Kilnsey – go bolt a project before Gresham claims them all
Toadal Recall - tidy up loose ends
Well Done finish, 8b (one last chance?)
Chulilla - La Montana Magica, f8a+/b (End Nov)
2x mid-week training sessions
2x week core sessions – proper Randall beastings
Sub 74 kg & 6.4% BF before Chulilla trip
STG (next week)
- Maintain gradual weight loss - FAIL
- Rehab - TICK
- Do some proper core training – HALF TICK
- Maintain sub 75kg weight - FAIL
Last week:
M - Light static core, theraband & 5kg pulley exercises rehab.
T - FB2 session. PB’s on crimp & all 2-finger combos. 3-finger down (using a smaller edge though). Bruised bum from beaming off the 35 slopers! 6x 2min on/1min off FO campus; not willing to go to aero-power failure yet due to shoulder. Evening drink & meal – will endeavour for more dates as this one isn’t a POF looney
W - Sore neck and bum from smash down yesterday. 60% of a Randal core beasting – didn’t want to to overdo first session. Ball and 5kg pulley rehab.
T - AWS. Very hot & busy. Shoulder instability highlighted by lack of commitment for any high left reaches. Struggled with the “7b” link-up circuit. Strangely high heart rate after trying it a couple of times, but no pump.
F - 1hr on the road bike; 28km flat – good pace.
S - Malham – WDF was surprisingly dry, but couldn’t face it. 6c+, 7a, 7a warm-ups. Tried Toadal Recall (8a) and came close to doing it in a day. 1 hanged it on 3rd tie in.
S - Got rained on. Went shopping in ‘beris; went to Orme. 6c+, TR 6b in new approach shoes, 7a+ RP, 7a RP. Felt rough. Chundered when back home. Still don’t feel right this morning - cancelled any intention of training today.
75.6kg/6.6% BF Monday morning.
STOP PRESS: 2nd date secured for Friday night
Stilted progress this week. Some good sessions, some bad, some lurgy. Work very busy.
MTG (by end of 2015)
Do an 8a slab; The Medium or Tony Slab Chamonix?
Do some progressive headpointing leading up to the Ogwen project.
Kilnsey – go bolt a project before Gresham claims them all
Toadal Recall - tidy up loose ends
Well Done finish, 8b (one last chance?)
Chulilla - La Montana Magica, f8a+/b (End Nov)
2x mid-week training sessions
2x week core sessions – proper Randall beastings
Sub 74 kg & 6.4% BF before Chulilla trip
STG (next week)
- Maintain gradual weight loss - FAIL
- Rehab - TICK
- Do some proper core training – HALF TICK
- Maintain sub 75kg weight - FAIL
Last week:
M - Light static core, theraband & 5kg pulley exercises rehab.
T - FB2 session. PB’s on crimp & all 2-finger combos. 3-finger down (using a smaller edge though). Bruised bum from beaming off the 35 slopers! 6x 2min on/1min off FO campus; not willing to go to aero-power failure yet due to shoulder. Evening drink & meal – will endeavour for more dates as this one isn’t a POF looney
W - Sore neck and bum from smash down yesterday. 60% of a Randal core beasting – didn’t want to to overdo first session. Ball and 5kg pulley rehab.
T - AWS. Very hot & busy. Shoulder instability highlighted by lack of commitment for any high left reaches. Struggled with the “7b” link-up circuit. Strangely high heart rate after trying it a couple of times, but no pump.
F - 1hr on the road bike; 28km flat – good pace.
S - Malham – WDF was surprisingly dry, but couldn’t face it. 6c+, 7a, 7a warm-ups. Tried Toadal Recall (8a) and came close to doing it in a day. 1 hanged it on 3rd tie in.
S - Got rained on. Went shopping in ‘beris; went to Orme. 6c+, TR 6b in new approach shoes, 7a+ RP, 7a RP. Felt rough. Chundered when back home. Still don’t feel right this morning - cancelled any intention of training today.
75.6kg/6.6% BF Monday morning.
STOP PRESS: 2nd date secured for Friday night
3
In reply to ExBristolian:
'lack of commitment on high left reaches' - yep, that's my stopper move on Remembrance!
'lack of commitment on high left reaches' - yep, that's my stopper move on Remembrance!
1
In reply to ExBristolian:
Cheers Ally. Yeah, looks like it'll be a Spring objective - unless I manage to get a Winter traverse (though I'll still want to do a solo Summer attempt).
STG - Get back into a regular training schedule, a combination of job change and the darker nights mean I haven't been getting out during the week. Red Point Jaz (D8) at the Dry Tooling meet at White Goods.
Mon - Rest
Tue - Rest
Wed - Rest
Thu - Tabata
Core - 8x 20s on/10s off. Situps, Russian Twists, Hanging knee raise from ice tools, Plank.
Mixed - 8x 20s on/10s off. Ice tool chin ups, Box step with weight, Ring dips
Fri - Dry Tooling at Rope Race. Several reps of the 10 move circuit in the cave.
Sat - Dry Tooling at White Goods. Attempts on Jaz (D8) and White Goods (D8+).
Sun Climbing at Rivelin Edge. Poor showing, didn't get anything clean
> Planetmarshall; good reconnaissance is never time wasted. Is the ridge now a spring objective?
Cheers Ally. Yeah, looks like it'll be a Spring objective - unless I manage to get a Winter traverse (though I'll still want to do a solo Summer attempt).
STG - Get back into a regular training schedule, a combination of job change and the darker nights mean I haven't been getting out during the week. Red Point Jaz (D8) at the Dry Tooling meet at White Goods.
Mon - Rest
Tue - Rest
Wed - Rest
Thu - Tabata
Core - 8x 20s on/10s off. Situps, Russian Twists, Hanging knee raise from ice tools, Plank.
Mixed - 8x 20s on/10s off. Ice tool chin ups, Box step with weight, Ring dips
Fri - Dry Tooling at Rope Race. Several reps of the 10 move circuit in the cave.
Sat - Dry Tooling at White Goods. Attempts on Jaz (D8) and White Goods (D8+).
Sun Climbing at Rivelin Edge. Poor showing, didn't get anything clean
In reply to ExBristolian:
Yeah I'm definitely not going near to FO campussing until I have happy elbows, but it seems like a great exercise to add into the mix.
Nothing from the Midtbeast yet, judging by his facebook page he is too busy taking 20m DWS falls, yikes.
Forgot my goals, again:
STG: Get back on the wagon training wise, time to improve my power endurance! *hold until elbows sorted*
Set the sardonique crux on my boulder wall/get some pocket holds depending on Easter destination
Sort out dull elbow ache *fixed!*
MTG: I'd still like that 8a, this year would be nice
Beat my 2011 highest number of ticks *113/143*
LTG: 8a in a day (probably on holiday somewhere)
Push on into 8a+/b territory
> Dandan82; FO campus can be very intense - take it easy on the DIY/elbow aches. Any word from Mitbo monster coach?
Yeah I'm definitely not going near to FO campussing until I have happy elbows, but it seems like a great exercise to add into the mix.
Nothing from the Midtbeast yet, judging by his facebook page he is too busy taking 20m DWS falls, yikes.
Forgot my goals, again:
STG: Get back on the wagon training wise, time to improve my power endurance! *hold until elbows sorted*
Set the sardonique crux on my boulder wall/get some pocket holds depending on Easter destination
Sort out dull elbow ache *fixed!*
MTG: I'd still like that 8a, this year would be nice
Beat my 2011 highest number of ticks *113/143*
LTG: 8a in a day (probably on holiday somewhere)
Push on into 8a+/b territory
In reply to biscuit:
yep - TR'd a silly 5.12d R/X route in the mountains with Mischa and have been scouting about for the gear to make it as safe as possible (and work up the psyche to do it)
If the lurgy abates, i could be keen for a routes session later this week?
> Cheers Ally. Am i right or were you working a big number with Mischa recently? Meant to ask you the other evening.
yep - TR'd a silly 5.12d R/X route in the mountains with Mischa and have been scouting about for the gear to make it as safe as possible (and work up the psyche to do it)
If the lurgy abates, i could be keen for a routes session later this week?
1
In reply to hms:
Morning Camper,
Well up for some Armistice action. Can do anytime Wednesday or Thursday.
Joyce
Morning Camper,
Well up for some Armistice action. Can do anytime Wednesday or Thursday.
Joyce
In reply to ExBristolian:
Cheers for the stats, Ally. Yeah, big confidence boost! I was going particularly well that day, less so this week...
M - Rest
T - TCA with Joyce. Good session, ticked about 5 more yellows (most of them done now) and the grovelly white 6C+ on the Mothership. Red 6C+ with the crimpy evil at the top was more stubborn.
W - Core
T - Bloc. 3 more yellows (6B-7A+). Had a go at another purple (next circuit up) at the end of the session. It would probably go if I tried it when fresh.
F - 3.5km run, core. Knee was feeling sore. Bit of a weird one, as it started when I bashed it on a rock about 2 weeks ago. It doesn't feel quite like the knee pain I'd expect from a running injury but running does exacerbate it. I'll try again this week.
S - Redpoint Birmingham. Got there late and hardly even managed to warm up.
S - Ramshaw, as brutal as ever. No Stanage grades here. Warmed up on The Rammer (f4+) (always fun), ticked The Press (E1 5b) (lichen like a soggy green mattress on the top), and it was all downhill from there. Failed abyssmally on Foord's Folly (E2 6a) and resorted to aid. I think I just never got warm after stopping for lunch.
weight: 65.5kg
> Nick Russell; E5 psyche! Nemo is very approachable if you commit on the crux instead of hanging around placing poor gear. Plenty of other Avon E5£s are easier/bolder, so you£re probably not far off being a consistent E5 leader
Cheers for the stats, Ally. Yeah, big confidence boost! I was going particularly well that day, less so this week...
M - Rest
T - TCA with Joyce. Good session, ticked about 5 more yellows (most of them done now) and the grovelly white 6C+ on the Mothership. Red 6C+ with the crimpy evil at the top was more stubborn.
W - Core
T - Bloc. 3 more yellows (6B-7A+). Had a go at another purple (next circuit up) at the end of the session. It would probably go if I tried it when fresh.
F - 3.5km run, core. Knee was feeling sore. Bit of a weird one, as it started when I bashed it on a rock about 2 weeks ago. It doesn't feel quite like the knee pain I'd expect from a running injury but running does exacerbate it. I'll try again this week.
S - Redpoint Birmingham. Got there late and hardly even managed to warm up.
S - Ramshaw, as brutal as ever. No Stanage grades here. Warmed up on The Rammer (f4+) (always fun), ticked The Press (E1 5b) (lichen like a soggy green mattress on the top), and it was all downhill from there. Failed abyssmally on Foord's Folly (E2 6a) and resorted to aid. I think I just never got warm after stopping for lunch.
weight: 65.5kg
In reply to ExBristolian:
I'll be down Wednesday eve about 6 for some doubles/triples. There's four of us atm but you're more than welcome.
I'll be down Wednesday eve about 6 for some doubles/triples. There's four of us atm but you're more than welcome.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Are you (or Joyce) going to be at TCA again tonight?
I'm in Bristol today and I'll probably drop in for an hour or so this evening before heading back to Oxford.
> T - TCA with Joyce.
Are you (or Joyce) going to be at TCA again tonight?
I'm in Bristol today and I'll probably drop in for an hour or so this evening before heading back to Oxford.
Hi all, thanks Ally-off this week, bit hit and miss, half wish I headed for sun but need to mix things u a bit and getting out tomorrow and over weekend.
What I have been able to do is sit down with few books etc and look at weaknesses etc. have been off with Neil Grisham and his various coaches is past and don't think my strengths and weaknesses have changed appreciably, I have just been slowly decreasing the various levels of weaknesses. They are in no particular order-
• Not "strong" enough to do enough routes in a day
• Lack power/strength to initiate moves-especially on steep ground.
• Stamina (on a route)
• Keeping hips close to wall/high rock overs
• Trusting feet (though improved massively)
• Pushing through feet
• Partners-time-weird one, have been climbing a lot with one person for last few years but have been struggling to get out at the same time this year, maybe different priorities, means I have not been getting out as much as I could have done. Also can quite often climb in afternoon so end up bouldering by myself-Ok but I know psyched partners help.
And A few strengths for some balance
• Keen and on upwards trajectory-both this years and more so last years performance and enjoyment unthinkable a couple of years ago.
• Good basic footwork, route reading etc-good trad grounding
• Learnt to use rests properly
• Probably ok finger strength at this time
• Tenacious-on the right day, in the right mood much more able to hang on than I was, this is the aspect that has probably changed the most.
• Flexible, happy, stable life-busy elsewhere, not working to make things happen, able to focus on climbing a fair amount.
• Dim awareness of injury prevention
Not sure what my goals are exactly but just for today they might be-
LTG-Autumn 2018, long road trip.
MTG-September 2016-7b+
STG- next four weeks-do Neil Grishams programme for tall weak climbers, run twice a week and boulder (routes outside where I can) x 3-sounds a lot but… at the end of it will have come up with a more specific twelve/sixteen week training plan, OMG, never “trained” before!!
Last week, was still experiencing the fall out form a busy time at work-felt good, got to TCA three times and on Saturday ticked the last orange (F5+-6B)(bar one that really gets my shoulder) quite chuffed-felt better than cherry picking the problems I can do and half-heartedly revisiting the ones that I cannot. Also went running for the first time in ages 3 miles with steep climb in 30 minutes-bit fast, bit sore as I am not a runner and never have been but enjoyed it
So bit of a long post but hey ho, setting it down is important-any feedback or ideas welcome.
Rich
What I have been able to do is sit down with few books etc and look at weaknesses etc. have been off with Neil Grisham and his various coaches is past and don't think my strengths and weaknesses have changed appreciably, I have just been slowly decreasing the various levels of weaknesses. They are in no particular order-
• Not "strong" enough to do enough routes in a day
• Lack power/strength to initiate moves-especially on steep ground.
• Stamina (on a route)
• Keeping hips close to wall/high rock overs
• Trusting feet (though improved massively)
• Pushing through feet
• Partners-time-weird one, have been climbing a lot with one person for last few years but have been struggling to get out at the same time this year, maybe different priorities, means I have not been getting out as much as I could have done. Also can quite often climb in afternoon so end up bouldering by myself-Ok but I know psyched partners help.
And A few strengths for some balance
• Keen and on upwards trajectory-both this years and more so last years performance and enjoyment unthinkable a couple of years ago.
• Good basic footwork, route reading etc-good trad grounding
• Learnt to use rests properly
• Probably ok finger strength at this time
• Tenacious-on the right day, in the right mood much more able to hang on than I was, this is the aspect that has probably changed the most.
• Flexible, happy, stable life-busy elsewhere, not working to make things happen, able to focus on climbing a fair amount.
• Dim awareness of injury prevention
Not sure what my goals are exactly but just for today they might be-
LTG-Autumn 2018, long road trip.
MTG-September 2016-7b+
STG- next four weeks-do Neil Grishams programme for tall weak climbers, run twice a week and boulder (routes outside where I can) x 3-sounds a lot but… at the end of it will have come up with a more specific twelve/sixteen week training plan, OMG, never “trained” before!!
Last week, was still experiencing the fall out form a busy time at work-felt good, got to TCA three times and on Saturday ticked the last orange (F5+-6B)(bar one that really gets my shoulder) quite chuffed-felt better than cherry picking the problems I can do and half-heartedly revisiting the ones that I cannot. Also went running for the first time in ages 3 miles with steep climb in 30 minutes-bit fast, bit sore as I am not a runner and never have been but enjoyed it
So bit of a long post but hey ho, setting it down is important-any feedback or ideas welcome.
Rich
In reply to biscuit:
of which, i will be one.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Ally - the Boy Wonder is disappearing from midweek climbing for a good while so I'm keen for some regular evenings at Stockport? maybe see you wednesday.
> I'll be down Wednesday eve about 6 for some doubles/triples. There's four of us atm but you're more than welcome.
of which, i will be one.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Ally - the Boy Wonder is disappearing from midweek climbing for a good while so I'm keen for some regular evenings at Stockport? maybe see you wednesday.
In reply to ExBristolian:
Ankle recovery seems to have stalled a bit, I cycled about 10 miles over the course of sunday without any significant pain but walking still hurts a fair bit. Seeing a climbing physio on friday evening so that should at the very least give me some indication of what I should be doing recovery wise. I'm heading up to the peak this weekend to meet a friend, probably going to climb some easy stuff (VS and below most likely), might manage to sneak in 2 other evenings of training as well this week.
Last week:
Monday: 1.5 hours at wall general training
Friday: 1.5 hours at wall
Sunday: 1 hour at wall
Short Term Goal: Walk to and from the wall (500 ish m) pain free. Get ankle sorted. Start climbing again.
Medium Term Goal: Redpoint 7a/ Headpoint E4
Long Term Goal: Lead E4 onsight
Ankle recovery seems to have stalled a bit, I cycled about 10 miles over the course of sunday without any significant pain but walking still hurts a fair bit. Seeing a climbing physio on friday evening so that should at the very least give me some indication of what I should be doing recovery wise. I'm heading up to the peak this weekend to meet a friend, probably going to climb some easy stuff (VS and below most likely), might manage to sneak in 2 other evenings of training as well this week.
Last week:
Monday: 1.5 hours at wall general training
Friday: 1.5 hours at wall
Sunday: 1 hour at wall
Short Term Goal: Walk to and from the wall (500 ish m) pain free. Get ankle sorted. Start climbing again.
Medium Term Goal: Redpoint 7a/ Headpoint E4
Long Term Goal: Lead E4 onsight
In reply to ExBristolian:
Thanks for doing fit club Ally.
Yes, have noticed some gains, (completed a new problem on the woody this week which is probably the hardest moves I've ever climbed. I did suffer this week from doing too much last week I think - another lesson learnt!
2015 aims:
Winter VI 7 - Tick.
Spring / early Summer 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar - Tick.
Summer quick build through E1 / E2 / E3s on slate before trying to OS Malice in Wonderland, (E3 / E4) Probably missed the Lakes trad' boat now
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: am - 1hr 30min warm up and limit bouldering (Power)
T: pm - 1hr warm up and limit bouldering (Power) - felt very tired
W: Rest
T: Rest
F: am - 1hr 30min warm up and limit bouldering (Power)
S: Rest
S: 3hrs family MTB on the red and blue at Glentress
Dropped the cardio this week by and large as felt tired. Fridays session a lot better. Away this week so going to do a little less and then go for it again.
Thanks for doing fit club Ally.
Yes, have noticed some gains, (completed a new problem on the woody this week which is probably the hardest moves I've ever climbed. I did suffer this week from doing too much last week I think - another lesson learnt!
2015 aims:
Winter VI 7 - Tick.
Spring / early Summer 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar - Tick.
Summer quick build through E1 / E2 / E3s on slate before trying to OS Malice in Wonderland, (E3 / E4) Probably missed the Lakes trad' boat now
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: am - 1hr 30min warm up and limit bouldering (Power)
T: pm - 1hr warm up and limit bouldering (Power) - felt very tired
W: Rest
T: Rest
F: am - 1hr 30min warm up and limit bouldering (Power)
S: Rest
S: 3hrs family MTB on the red and blue at Glentress
Dropped the cardio this week by and large as felt tired. Fridays session a lot better. Away this week so going to do a little less and then go for it again.
In reply to The Fox:
Morning Foxy - i had a good session last night with unexpected circuit thrashing with Mischa at the end.
Going to give the skin a rest tonight and train again tomorrow. I'll definitely be keen for routes volume in the next few weeks though; leading up to a trip to Chulilla at the end of November.
Morning Foxy - i had a good session last night with unexpected circuit thrashing with Mischa at the end.
Going to give the skin a rest tonight and train again tomorrow. I'll definitely be keen for routes volume in the next few weeks though; leading up to a trip to Chulilla at the end of November.
In reply to Exile:
And 2 hrs MTB Tuesday (winter endurance) and 4 hrs mountain walk with weighted pack Thursday (winter endurance) now I think about it!
And 2 hrs MTB Tuesday (winter endurance) and 4 hrs mountain walk with weighted pack Thursday (winter endurance) now I think about it!
In reply to ExBristolian:
Cheers Ally, funny you should ask about the hamstring......
M: am - 10M to work in 67:06
Tu: Lunchtime - road session 3 x 10mins (45 seconds recovery). didn't do a big enough warm up for this, started ok and then towards the end of rep 2 my hamstring started to tighten a bit. Thought it would be ok, started rep 3 and got 5mins into it before hamstring really tightened and had to stop - ar*e, sh*t, b*gg*r !!! managed to jog for 20mins to try and warm down but it wasn't really happening, 10M total
W: Hamstring v sore and tight, felt like I was dragging it along behind me am - 4/5M to work 33:56, pm - 4/5M home 34:40
Th: Hamstring still stiff and sore but less so which was a good sign. am - 4/5M to work 32:33, pm - 9M home in 59:05 then went to see physio for massage, needles and got it taped. Then went for a massage on the rest of my legs.
F: Rest to see if hamstring would continue to improve
Sa: Decided against a session so went for a run instead, 10M offroad in 70:15, running more freely and hamstring definitely improved.
Su: am - 14/15M steady in 1:45:04 hamstring ok but can still feel it a bit, took the tape off which with my hairy legs was very painful!
Total 67M - not bad considering hamstring was pretty bad on Tuesday, fortunately it has kept improving. Need to stretch my lower back and hamstings more! Hopefully it'll continue to improve and I can increase the mileage again.
Cheers Ally, funny you should ask about the hamstring......
M: am - 10M to work in 67:06
Tu: Lunchtime - road session 3 x 10mins (45 seconds recovery). didn't do a big enough warm up for this, started ok and then towards the end of rep 2 my hamstring started to tighten a bit. Thought it would be ok, started rep 3 and got 5mins into it before hamstring really tightened and had to stop - ar*e, sh*t, b*gg*r !!! managed to jog for 20mins to try and warm down but it wasn't really happening, 10M total
W: Hamstring v sore and tight, felt like I was dragging it along behind me am - 4/5M to work 33:56, pm - 4/5M home 34:40
Th: Hamstring still stiff and sore but less so which was a good sign. am - 4/5M to work 32:33, pm - 9M home in 59:05 then went to see physio for massage, needles and got it taped. Then went for a massage on the rest of my legs.
F: Rest to see if hamstring would continue to improve
Sa: Decided against a session so went for a run instead, 10M offroad in 70:15, running more freely and hamstring definitely improved.
Su: am - 14/15M steady in 1:45:04 hamstring ok but can still feel it a bit, took the tape off which with my hairy legs was very painful!
Total 67M - not bad considering hamstring was pretty bad on Tuesday, fortunately it has kept improving. Need to stretch my lower back and hamstings more! Hopefully it'll continue to improve and I can increase the mileage again.
In reply to ExBristolian:
Hey Ally, bad form from me being AWOL again. Bit of a hectic week, feeling the fear now...time in the mountains is running out so been trying to get out as much as possible.
Week 448:
M: Core workout
T: No partner, poor weather, enforced rest...
W: Shit Route (TD-). Good little 3 pitch mixed route to get back into the swing of things.
T: Dry tooling at The Zoo.
F: Rest, headed up to Plan for a bivvy. 2 hour recce of the approach to Eugster Direct.
S: Up at 2:30 to walk in, got confused in the dark and started up the Seigneur Spur (3rd/Central Spur) (TD). Climbed about 500m vertical before realising we'd gone wrong. Bailed.
S: Rest
Week 449:
M: Rest, headed up to bivvy at the Plan for round 2 with Eugster Direct (TD+ 5).
T: Up at 1:30, started up the right route this time. Stunning climb, 1500m of height gain including the approach with 6x60m pitches of sublime ice and mixed in the middle. Ended up leading the crux which my partner reckoned was getting on for Scottish VII 7 in the thin conditions we had so I'll take that as a good sign for the coming season...
W: Rest
T: Morning cragging at La Joux, then headed up to bivvy at the Plan again for an attempt on Rebuffat-Terray (Carrington-Rouse) (TD+ 5).
F: Up early again, route was in incredible nick, simuled the first 250m and then roped up for ~350m of difficulties. Lots of ice but consequently very bold climbing. A slight route finding mishap on my part led to the scariest bit of climbing I've ever done, delicately padding up a snow-plastered slab, looking at a 60m+ fall just before getting a solid cam. Back on route after that - stunning climbing to the top. Freed the pendulum pitch which is normally aided. Went at about M6. Nervy descent down the Glacier des Pelerins over some thin snow bridges...
S: Rest
S: Rest
All in all quite pleased with things. Some more good mileage so far this week and hopefully more to come.
STG (this week): 3 ticks (on two already, bit of a cheat!)
Hey Ally, bad form from me being AWOL again. Bit of a hectic week, feeling the fear now...time in the mountains is running out so been trying to get out as much as possible.
Week 448:
M: Core workout
T: No partner, poor weather, enforced rest...
W: Shit Route (TD-). Good little 3 pitch mixed route to get back into the swing of things.
T: Dry tooling at The Zoo.
F: Rest, headed up to Plan for a bivvy. 2 hour recce of the approach to Eugster Direct.
S: Up at 2:30 to walk in, got confused in the dark and started up the Seigneur Spur (3rd/Central Spur) (TD). Climbed about 500m vertical before realising we'd gone wrong. Bailed.
S: Rest
Week 449:
M: Rest, headed up to bivvy at the Plan for round 2 with Eugster Direct (TD+ 5).
T: Up at 1:30, started up the right route this time. Stunning climb, 1500m of height gain including the approach with 6x60m pitches of sublime ice and mixed in the middle. Ended up leading the crux which my partner reckoned was getting on for Scottish VII 7 in the thin conditions we had so I'll take that as a good sign for the coming season...
W: Rest
T: Morning cragging at La Joux, then headed up to bivvy at the Plan again for an attempt on Rebuffat-Terray (Carrington-Rouse) (TD+ 5).
F: Up early again, route was in incredible nick, simuled the first 250m and then roped up for ~350m of difficulties. Lots of ice but consequently very bold climbing. A slight route finding mishap on my part led to the scariest bit of climbing I've ever done, delicately padding up a snow-plastered slab, looking at a 60m+ fall just before getting a solid cam. Back on route after that - stunning climbing to the top. Freed the pendulum pitch which is normally aided. Went at about M6. Nervy descent down the Glacier des Pelerins over some thin snow bridges...
S: Rest
S: Rest
All in all quite pleased with things. Some more good mileage so far this week and hopefully more to come.
STG (this week): 3 ticks (on two already, bit of a cheat!)
In reply to ExBristolian:
Thanks Ally. Morocco is awesome - multipitch adventure trad at its best, and the Kasbah was a great base (thanks to Nick and Matt for destination beta). The weather wasn't the greatest so didn't get to all the areas on the ticklist, and had to bumble around on a bit of easier single-pitch for a few days.
M: Having arrived at the Kasbah at 3am, had a lie in then a load of easy solos and new routes at Tarikit Crag A bit of rain.
T: A bit damp. Deaf Leopard (E1); The Lion Tamer (MVS 4b); Jonas (HS 4a)
W: Wacky Races (E1) E1 in which I somehow managed to steal all the cool lead sections. Even got mono pocket traversing and a knee bar.
T: 'M' Joe Brown Crag Road Runner (HVS) - my first ever epic. We'd recced this one as a gentle HVS for a rest day, but very dangerous rock left us climbing way over the advertised tech grade and unable to build anything solid enough to retreat. It got darker and old men and donkeys gathered on the road below as we haired our way up gingerly pulling off basketball-sized blocks as we went. Avoid this crag!
F: Ksar Rock Morocco Coco (VS 4c) as a warm up, but then it started raining 10m so finished the pitch in welsh conditions and called it a proper rest day.
S: Weather looking flaky again so went single-pitch in a very pretty gorge. The Wizard's Sleeve (VS 4c); Tag Crack (HVS 5b); Black Crack (VS) before it rained us off.
S: Tramline Slabs. The Marrakesh Express (E1 5a) E1. Sublime climbing, though I had to second the final pitch in a column of the fattest rain I have ever seen. We sat on the top watching it move along the valley and you can see how people see weather like that and assume it is a visitation from god!
Nick - didn't get to the Samazar as every time the road dried out enough it rained again, and we were only in a Peugeot 206. I plan to return with more clearance and hit Dragon Buttress hard!
Thanks Ally. Morocco is awesome - multipitch adventure trad at its best, and the Kasbah was a great base (thanks to Nick and Matt for destination beta). The weather wasn't the greatest so didn't get to all the areas on the ticklist, and had to bumble around on a bit of easier single-pitch for a few days.
M: Having arrived at the Kasbah at 3am, had a lie in then a load of easy solos and new routes at Tarikit Crag A bit of rain.
T: A bit damp. Deaf Leopard (E1); The Lion Tamer (MVS 4b); Jonas (HS 4a)
W: Wacky Races (E1) E1 in which I somehow managed to steal all the cool lead sections. Even got mono pocket traversing and a knee bar.
T: 'M' Joe Brown Crag Road Runner (HVS) - my first ever epic. We'd recced this one as a gentle HVS for a rest day, but very dangerous rock left us climbing way over the advertised tech grade and unable to build anything solid enough to retreat. It got darker and old men and donkeys gathered on the road below as we haired our way up gingerly pulling off basketball-sized blocks as we went. Avoid this crag!
F: Ksar Rock Morocco Coco (VS 4c) as a warm up, but then it started raining 10m so finished the pitch in welsh conditions and called it a proper rest day.
S: Weather looking flaky again so went single-pitch in a very pretty gorge. The Wizard's Sleeve (VS 4c); Tag Crack (HVS 5b); Black Crack (VS) before it rained us off.
S: Tramline Slabs. The Marrakesh Express (E1 5a) E1. Sublime climbing, though I had to second the final pitch in a column of the fattest rain I have ever seen. We sat on the top watching it move along the valley and you can see how people see weather like that and assume it is a visitation from god!
Nick - didn't get to the Samazar as every time the road dried out enough it rained again, and we were only in a Peugeot 206. I plan to return with more clearance and hit Dragon Buttress hard!
In reply to ExBristolian:
Thanks Ally. Morocco is awesome - multipitch adventure trad at its best, and the Kasbah was a great base (thanks to Nick and Matt for destination beta). The weather wasn't the greatest so didn't get to all the areas on the ticklist, and had to bumble around on a bit of easier single-pitch for a few days.
M: Having arrived at the Kasbah at 3am, had a lie in then a load of easy solos and new routes at Tarikit Crag A bit of rain.
T: A bit damp. Deaf Leopard (E1); The Lion Tamer (MVS 4b); Jonas (HS 4a)
W: Wacky Races (E1) in which I somehow managed to steal all the cool lead sections. Even got mono pocket traversing and a knee bar.
T: 'M' Joe Brown Crag Road Runner (HVS) - my first ever epic. We'd recced this one as a gentle HVS for a rest day, but very dangerous rock left us climbing way over the advertised tech grade and unable to build anything solid enough to retreat. It got darker and old men and donkeys gathered on the road below as we haired our way up gingerly pulling off basketball-sized blocks as we went. Avoid this crag!
F: Ksar Rock Morocco Coco (VS 4c) as a warm up, but then it started raining 10m so finished the pitch in welsh conditions and called it a proper rest day.
S: Weather looking flaky again so went single-pitch in a very pretty gorge. The Wizard's Sleeve (VS 4c); Tag Crack (HVS 5b); Black Crack (VS) before it rained us off.
S: Tramline Slabs. The Marrakesh Express (E1 5a). Sublime climbing, though I had to second the final pitch in a column of the fattest rain I have ever seen. We sat on the top watching it move along the valley and you can see how people see weather like that and assume it is a visitation from god!
Nick - didn't get to the Samazar as every time the road dried out enough it rained again, and we were only in a Peugeot 206. I plan to return with more clearance and hit Dragon Buttress hard!
Thanks Ally. Morocco is awesome - multipitch adventure trad at its best, and the Kasbah was a great base (thanks to Nick and Matt for destination beta). The weather wasn't the greatest so didn't get to all the areas on the ticklist, and had to bumble around on a bit of easier single-pitch for a few days.
M: Having arrived at the Kasbah at 3am, had a lie in then a load of easy solos and new routes at Tarikit Crag A bit of rain.
T: A bit damp. Deaf Leopard (E1); The Lion Tamer (MVS 4b); Jonas (HS 4a)
W: Wacky Races (E1) in which I somehow managed to steal all the cool lead sections. Even got mono pocket traversing and a knee bar.
T: 'M' Joe Brown Crag Road Runner (HVS) - my first ever epic. We'd recced this one as a gentle HVS for a rest day, but very dangerous rock left us climbing way over the advertised tech grade and unable to build anything solid enough to retreat. It got darker and old men and donkeys gathered on the road below as we haired our way up gingerly pulling off basketball-sized blocks as we went. Avoid this crag!
F: Ksar Rock Morocco Coco (VS 4c) as a warm up, but then it started raining 10m so finished the pitch in welsh conditions and called it a proper rest day.
S: Weather looking flaky again so went single-pitch in a very pretty gorge. The Wizard's Sleeve (VS 4c); Tag Crack (HVS 5b); Black Crack (VS) before it rained us off.
S: Tramline Slabs. The Marrakesh Express (E1 5a). Sublime climbing, though I had to second the final pitch in a column of the fattest rain I have ever seen. We sat on the top watching it move along the valley and you can see how people see weather like that and assume it is a visitation from god!
Nick - didn't get to the Samazar as every time the road dried out enough it rained again, and we were only in a Peugeot 206. I plan to return with more clearance and hit Dragon Buttress hard!
In reply to Just Tintin:
I thought the samazar road was ok (years ago, at least) - where we really had fun (in something with similar clearance to yours) was on the side valley with the fortress in it (I think - we out up a route called Battering Ram there), which we went into the first time by accident and the online guidebook of the time described as a 4wd track. Certainly I couldn't have got the car back out the top, so we had to just keep going and hope it came out some where helpful further down!
I thought the samazar road was ok (years ago, at least) - where we really had fun (in something with similar clearance to yours) was on the side valley with the fortress in it (I think - we out up a route called Battering Ram there), which we went into the first time by accident and the online guidebook of the time described as a 4wd track. Certainly I couldn't have got the car back out the top, so we had to just keep going and hope it came out some where helpful further down!
In reply to Just Tintin:
Wow, Morocco sounds rad! Might have to quiz you for some trip beta next year some time. How's the weather out there this time of year?
Wow, Morocco sounds rad! Might have to quiz you for some trip beta next year some time. How's the weather out there this time of year?
In reply to ExBristolian:
Thanks Ally for doing FC again. I can do FC for a couple of weeks. The course was about some basic training principles, technique training, coaching principles and about how to educate new instructors. I heard this week that I passed the test, which was good, because the written exam at the end had some questions that where possible to interpret in multiple ways, so I doubted about if I’d answered correct or not.
M: climbing outdoors, warmed up on a 5-, then went on a 7- I worked in spring to find out that one of the moves in the crux broke off, so had to change my sequence, worked the move on toprope, but only catched once in 16 tries, then did a 5+ which was really nice.
T: rest
W: climbing indoors, did all the moves of the purple 6c project with 3 rests and came past first crux on 7b project for the first time, for the rest I climbed some easy routes to fix a toprope for my partner and repeated some 6a+es.
T: rest/ reel rock 10
F: climbing indoors, finally manned up to try a 7 that I was wanted to get on for a while but the start looked intimidating, managed all the moves, 1 fall and 1 rest.
S: climbing indoors, some easy routes to fix toprope and did all the moves on the 7b project, but did cheat on some clips by grabbing the sling, now I did all the moves I don’t feel the route is 7b, since that isn’t my level of climbing. Tried a new white 6c afterwards, got 2/3th up, before being to pumped. Onsighted a pumpy 6b in the end. Really happy with the session .
S: rest
Thanks Ally for doing FC again. I can do FC for a couple of weeks. The course was about some basic training principles, technique training, coaching principles and about how to educate new instructors. I heard this week that I passed the test, which was good, because the written exam at the end had some questions that where possible to interpret in multiple ways, so I doubted about if I’d answered correct or not.
M: climbing outdoors, warmed up on a 5-, then went on a 7- I worked in spring to find out that one of the moves in the crux broke off, so had to change my sequence, worked the move on toprope, but only catched once in 16 tries, then did a 5+ which was really nice.
T: rest
W: climbing indoors, did all the moves of the purple 6c project with 3 rests and came past first crux on 7b project for the first time, for the rest I climbed some easy routes to fix a toprope for my partner and repeated some 6a+es.
T: rest/ reel rock 10
F: climbing indoors, finally manned up to try a 7 that I was wanted to get on for a while but the start looked intimidating, managed all the moves, 1 fall and 1 rest.
S: climbing indoors, some easy routes to fix toprope and did all the moves on the 7b project, but did cheat on some clips by grabbing the sling, now I did all the moves I don’t feel the route is 7b, since that isn’t my level of climbing. Tried a new white 6c afterwards, got 2/3th up, before being to pumped. Onsighted a pumpy 6b in the end. Really happy with the session .
S: rest
In reply to ExBristolian:
Cheers for the thread Ally! I think I'm going for the better late than never award, tomorrow I will post on Sunday!
My knee felt a bit better at the back end of last week, good over the weekend, one random painful night, then fine again. I've now decided not to go back to the GP as I can run, bike and climb so maybe need to stop flaming grunting about it. I think I may just have had a major wimp phase. I think the good bits are getting longer so whatever it was, time to crack on and see what happens.
Mon - nowt
Tues - 3 miles bike to work (So going to include that!)
Weds - 2 hrs lead climb night. Actually happy with how I climbed and led.
Thurs - Nowt
Fri - 3 hrs top roping, topped up with auto belay laps as I didn't feel like I worked hard enough
Sat - Nowt
Sun - 2 hrs bouldering plus bike there and back 3 miles ish.
I did take it easier last week but didn't sacrifice the climbing.
Cheers for the thread Ally! I think I'm going for the better late than never award, tomorrow I will post on Sunday!
My knee felt a bit better at the back end of last week, good over the weekend, one random painful night, then fine again. I've now decided not to go back to the GP as I can run, bike and climb so maybe need to stop flaming grunting about it. I think I may just have had a major wimp phase. I think the good bits are getting longer so whatever it was, time to crack on and see what happens.
Mon - nowt
Tues - 3 miles bike to work (So going to include that!)
Weds - 2 hrs lead climb night. Actually happy with how I climbed and led.
Thurs - Nowt
Fri - 3 hrs top roping, topped up with auto belay laps as I didn't feel like I worked hard enough
Sat - Nowt
Sun - 2 hrs bouldering plus bike there and back 3 miles ish.
I did take it easier last week but didn't sacrifice the climbing.
In reply to alexm198:
Definitely is. The rain we had was thought uncharacteristic for this time of year by the seasoned veterans. El Niño?! Ask any time.
Tintin
Definitely is. The rain we had was thought uncharacteristic for this time of year by the seasoned veterans. El Niño?! Ask any time.
Tintin
In reply to AJM:
Yikes! We were put off when the guys with a Dacia duster turned around because it was getting a bit spicy! But have ticklist for samazar that will take another couple of trips now...!
We struggled to tell the difference between the solid and dotted yellow roads on the map at times and ended up going dotted for short periods on the grounds that it just got as back to better roads quicker. Like driving on a river bed...
Yikes! We were put off when the guys with a Dacia duster turned around because it was getting a bit spicy! But have ticklist for samazar that will take another couple of trips now...!
We struggled to tell the difference between the solid and dotted yellow roads on the map at times and ended up going dotted for short periods on the grounds that it just got as back to better roads quicker. Like driving on a river bed...
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