Okey dokey, have searched forums and cant find the info im looking for, so il ask you knowledgable people...
have built a woody due to the poor (undertatement) weather in this country
question 1) suffered slight tendenitus (spelling?) at the start of the year which went away, but also fell off a route 4 months ago and smacked my right elbow on a rock. ive had some pain on the end of my funny bone when climbing, as well as it being stiff in the mornings. im not sure if this injury is due to tenonitus or this fall i had. it doesnt seem to be getting any better. i also usually crank harder on my right arm. its not affecting my climbing at all, but im wondering how climbing on a woody is going to affect it. The main concern i have is all the downclimbing, as its not very high. im doing circuits on it which inevitably involves putting alot of strain through my arms when dropping powerfully down on to them. i get a slight pain after these circuits but nothing too bad.
Do you think this will make my elbow problem worse? How can i train powerfully on this woody (of limited height) and and take the strain off my elbows?
question 2) the reason my elbows were hurting at the start of the year was put down to doing touches on the campus board (dropping down powerfully) and doing alot of deadhanging with straight arms (i now do them with slightly bent elbows, more strenuous but better ive been told). ive also heard climbing alot indoors can strain elbows. Im now trying to develop the "pushing" muslces (antagonistics are they called?) in the gym which i hope may make a difference, but im not sure (isnt the injury to do with the tendons not being strong enough for the muslces?)
So, second question, are there any other common parts of climbing which put extra strain on elbows (like downclimbing/dropping down)? been doing alot of sport lately but now back on the trad (when its not raining!)
question 3) are there any stetches/exercises i can do to help my elbows? spoke to a number of people who use one of those stretchy bands, but ive no idea how to use one.
Any advice would be very much appreciated, i understand alot of people post about this problem but any advice specific to training on a very steep indoor facility would be great.
