UKC

I feel like I'm going to regret posting this, but anyway...

Why did I get insane rope drag on my ice routes this year?

Was in Gudbrandsdalen in Norway in January. Did quite a few amazing pitches of WI4 or so, with some of them very very close to 60m long (obvious possible cause number 1) On a couple of pitches I used every one of my 20 or so ice screws ( obvious possible cause number 2).  I don't have 20 long draws, so many of them would have been extended with short sport draws (OPC3).

I was using double ropes and had the screws placed as close as possible in line, but got insane rope drag, to the extent that I was actually front pointing horizontally across the frozen turf at the top of the climb to reach the belay.

I'm not keen on placing less gear, and the climb dictates pitch length, so that doesn't leave me with many options.... I'll buy a stack more long QDs, and try to be really careful exactly where I place my screws, but has anyone got any other suggestions/ points to offer ( other than the obvious one of not getting on ice routes that I feel the need to stitch like a kipper!)

In mitigation, one of the pitches was quite wandering, and the last pitch of Goddis had very weird ledged ( Ie a 30-40cmm deep ledge with a 25-35cm protruding ice overhang  ice just above it repeated ad finitum, which may well have exacerbated the problem

It's hard to say, but under certain conditions (and if the dry treatment has worn off), the rope may become wet and refreeze as you climb. That makes the rope very stiff and hard to pull, even through very gentle bends. Does that sound likely?

Wet rope was my first thought too. It doesn't even need to freeze, just add extra weight.

Although really, the op probably doesn't need to look much further than the points already identified!

Good suggestion but I don't think so in this case. One rope was brand new and the other used once before the trip.

If it's very wet it doesn't matter how good or new the dry treatment is, the rope will get wet.

My partner Nev hates sport draws with a vengeance......  says they just aren't suitable for trad routes.

Do yourself a favour and buy a a load of sling-draws. Get rid of all those small changes of direction.  Or grow a longer neck 😉

You must be an absolute beast to hang on, carry and then place 20 screws on a pitch.  What do you put on your porridge in the morning; rusty nails?

Short draws and long pitches is the cause. In addition to long draws/short slings, and actual slings consider also some DMM revolver screw gates on them, for the first couple of pieces and then for bad changes in angle (suitably extended).

Think you've answered your own question there but just for fun, and because we all love a good maths, and because more climbers should probably be aware of this:

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capstan_equation

Rope drag is stuff raised to the power of the angle you make the rope bend. Extend your gear, kids.