/ Ecrins Ice Conditions

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jackob 27 Dec 2019

Hi does anybody know the current Ice Climbing conditions in the ecrins or the best place to find out conditions.

Thanks a lot!

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Toby_W 27 Dec 2019
In reply to jackob:

https://www.ice-fall.com/

I’m jealous, haven’t been for ages.  Fornel valley, Fressissniers and celliac excuse my spelling.

cheers

Toby

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BoulderyDave 25 Jan 2020
In reply to Toby_W:

Currently in Ecrins. We got a good day at Ceillac and one route at Fournel. It’s way too warm though. Nothing in at La Grave, at Fournel we climbing Captain Courageous but heard numerous avalanches in the valley. Ended up skiing most of the trip.  

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chris687 25 Jan 2020
In reply to BoulderyDave:

 Hi,  did you get up higher to look at any of the mountain routes? Things in the Tabuc Valley, Meije or Pelvoux? I'm heading out in a few weeks. The forecasts have been showing really cold temps and lots of snow up high

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nation1 31 Jan 2020
In reply to BoulderyDave:

Any updates ? 

Cheers ....

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John Cuthbert 31 Jan 2020
In reply to nation1:

Just got back. Conditions for valley ice have been shaping up nicely with lots of thin routes fattening up. Check out ice-fall.com/conditions for the latest updates. 

There's been a bit of snow this week, so bear that in mind..

JC

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nation1 09 Feb 2020
In reply to jackob:

Arrived in l Argentiere la bessee late last night. Made our way to ceillac this afternoon. Made our way up to easy rider, route in decent condition, did the two pitches and walked off the top instead of abseiling as there was a few folk out. Holiday on ice is climbable also. 

We checked out les formed du chaos but it’s in poor condition, lots and lots of running water so it’s not safe to climb. 

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Jones the teeth 10 Feb 2020
In reply to nation1:

Thanks for the info I'm supposed to be climbing in Susa on the 22nd do any info on France much appreciated as Italy looks grim.

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nation1 10 Feb 2020
In reply to Jones the teeth:

Currently 10 degrees C in l Argentiere la bessee, drove to ceillac to take a look at a few routes, was above freezing at the car park and holiday on ice looked incomplete in some sections from the car park. Grey dull ice. Also formed du chaos also not climbable.  Drove up to Fournel and also it’s very poor.  La grave is looking to be colder over next few nights so will keep the thread updated. 

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Kirill 10 Feb 2020
In reply to jackob:

Bunch of lines in Alpe d'Huez are in good nick currently.

In Vallon du Diable the lines from Larmes du Chaos to l'Autisme are complete and in acceptable nick.

Post edited at 12:29
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Slarti B 10 Feb 2020
In reply to jackob:

Any idea what it is like in Cogne?  Off there on Thursday for 5 days

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Tim Sparrow 10 Feb 2020
In reply to jackob:

Just back from last week in L'Argentiere LB and report mixed fortunes.

Not many places have good conditions, but we found plenty in good nick to do. 

Fournel is fine at end of valley and the Grand Bleu routes, but the road is very icy indeed. Hiroshima and Marco Polo all but melted away in the early week thaw.

Ceillac is better than suggested, though F d C is not in. Sombre Heros  needs more time but was thickening. All other routes are fine. Vermicelle is in excellent condition (used to be the last to form!) though is at VS grade (Very Stepped!)

Crevoux (Cascade de Razis) good too but busy. 

Other suspects like Fressinieres and La Grave are reportedly not encouraging, so we didn't visit.

We did some cracking sunny rock on 2 days though!

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AdrianC 10 Feb 2020
In reply to Slarti B:

People have been doing stuff there and it was cold until yesterday.  It was about +4 at the base at Pila this morning then snowed to ~2100m.  It's due to get colder so Cogne should be ok for a while yet.

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chris687 10 Feb 2020
In reply to jackob:

A few people have emailed me asking about the "higher stuff" I mentioned. 

Retour aux Sources (TD) the tetes du saint margurite

Could be worth checking out

There's also stuff up in Ailefroide but I've no idea where to find info on the road being open or closed so any reports would be handy

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nation1 10 Feb 2020
In reply to chris687:

Hello, updating the thread, we’ve been driving around today. Ceillac was a wash out, Fournel a wash out, le grave also a wash out, We visited le col du Lautaret, and had a look up to comb di Laurichard there seemed to be a few lines from the rd but not 100% No pisted tracks, forecast more snow for next two days up col di Lautaret. This seems like only option but weather will decide. Currently nothing to climb that we know off. Getting colder next couple/three days but we return to uk on Friday 

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andyr 10 Feb 2020
nation1 10 Feb 2020
In reply to Kirill:

Bunch of lines in Alpe d'Huez are in good nick currently.

can you elaborate, 

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Slarti B 10 Feb 2020
In reply to AdrianC:

Great, Thanks for the update.  We went to Austria last year and did 1 pitch of ice in 4 days!   Hoping for a bit more this time. 

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Kirill 11 Feb 2020
In reply to nation1:

I meant the routes above DMC 2100. Chacal Bondissant, Ice Bille, La Gorge, Stalactus, Les Larmes du Roudoudou (only one of them). Probably a few lines in between as well. 

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BillHuggins 14 Feb 2020
In reply to nation1:

Did you actually post this to dissuade more people from going to Ceillac? In reality most routes are in excellent condition, as evident from your own logbook!!!

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