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After my recent climb of Ben Nevis in winter, I have been inspired to climb Mt Blanc for my 25th (in a year and a half). If I can do this then my next aim will be Mt Mckinley. To those who have climeb Mt Blanc, how much would I be looking at to buy all the gear and clothing, considering at the moment I have almost none of the needed equiptment.
Also can anyone recommend any good courses that run in the UK that I could attend next winter for training. Also I know it's way off in the future but I just want to get an idea, what sort of mountains could I use to prepare myself for Mt Mckinley. Would a winter ascent of Mt Blanc be sufficent?
Can anyone who has climbed Mt Blanc give me any useful info or suggestions on anything that I may need to know.
Also can anyone recommend any good courses that run in the UK that I could attend next winter for training. Also I know it's way off in the future but I just want to get an idea, what sort of mountains could I use to prepare myself for Mt Mckinley. Would a winter ascent of Mt Blanc be sufficent?
Can anyone who has climbed Mt Blanc give me any useful info or suggestions on anything that I may need to know.
In reply to Dave Grogan:
There is not much you need for Mont Blanc that you won't have from climbing Ben Nevis in winter. A harness, rope and a few glacier bits principally. Helmet if doing the Gouter route (not recommended).
> After my recent climb of Ben Nevis in winter, I have been inspired to climb Mt Blanc for my 25th (in a year and a half). If I can do this then my next aim will be Mt Mckinley. To those who have climeb Mt Blanc, how much would I be looking at to buy all the gear and clothing, considering at the moment I have almost none of the needed equiptment.
>
>
There is not much you need for Mont Blanc that you won't have from climbing Ben Nevis in winter. A harness, rope and a few glacier bits principally. Helmet if doing the Gouter route (not recommended).
In reply to Dave Grogan: Equipment-wise you'll probably be fairly sorted after Ben Nevis in winter, though a helmet is probably a necessity. Jagged Globe run outstanding winter courses in Scotland it may be worth considering between MB and Denali. I'm planning on doing Huascaran in Peru as preparation for Denali.
In reply to Dave Grogan: If you have climbed the Ben in winter you probably have the gear required for Mont Blanc in Summer although, generally speaking, it will be drier and hotter. As far as I am aware climbing Mont Blanc in Winter is not a practical proposition unless you ski. You will however have to learn a few more rope skills and be prepared for more than one day on the mountain as well as coping with altitude. It's usually a good idea to spend a couple of days and nights at about 3500 metres before hand to acclimatize. I've not done McKinley but I would consider it to be in a different league in terms of size, logistics and seriousness so it would be worth getting a few more 4000 metre peaks under your belt before attempting it.
Al
Al
In reply to Dave Grogan: The first obvious thing you need to think about is whether you want to climb the mountains by yourself or do you want to do them accompanied by a Mountain Guide.
Doing guided ascents is far simpler, less time consuming and probably safer. A ten day package in the Alps with a guide is a great way to climb Mont Blanc with a few training peaks and then the main summit. Also, you can do that with pretty much zero additional experience from where you are now. After that you could pretty much book straight on a 3-4 week commercial fully-guided expedition to Denali.
In terms of climbing yourself, you'd ideally be looking at the following as a good progression:
Perhaps a 3-5 day course in Scotland followed by 6-10 days of personal experience gives a good grounding in skills.
That would lead nicely into a basic Alpine Mountaineering course, and then perhaps 2-3 weeks of gaining some more personal experience, culminating in Mont Blanc.
Finally, in terms of Denali there are a range of options between going on a fully guided expedition and being completely independent.
There's no reason you couldn't then head to Alaska the next year depending on who you are going with. However, if you're looking to be fully independent and not rely heavily on other more experienced expedition members, another 6-8 weeks of alpine mountaineering experience over a second or third season in Europe and further afield would give an ideal basis.
Any UK MIC qualified instructor or British Mountain Guide can deliver a good course in Scotland and any BMG can do likewise for the Alps.
The options really turn on whether you are going to be in the position to find climbing partners and on the balance of time & money you have.
The equipment costs for Mont Blanc guided will be a good £300-600 less as they will supply ropes etc. However you could get everything to climb it yourself for under £1000 if you are very careful, shop around and buy second hand. On the other hand you could be talking £2000 to £3000 if you walked into a shop and bought all the latest kit.
Doing guided ascents is far simpler, less time consuming and probably safer. A ten day package in the Alps with a guide is a great way to climb Mont Blanc with a few training peaks and then the main summit. Also, you can do that with pretty much zero additional experience from where you are now. After that you could pretty much book straight on a 3-4 week commercial fully-guided expedition to Denali.
In terms of climbing yourself, you'd ideally be looking at the following as a good progression:
Perhaps a 3-5 day course in Scotland followed by 6-10 days of personal experience gives a good grounding in skills.
That would lead nicely into a basic Alpine Mountaineering course, and then perhaps 2-3 weeks of gaining some more personal experience, culminating in Mont Blanc.
Finally, in terms of Denali there are a range of options between going on a fully guided expedition and being completely independent.
There's no reason you couldn't then head to Alaska the next year depending on who you are going with. However, if you're looking to be fully independent and not rely heavily on other more experienced expedition members, another 6-8 weeks of alpine mountaineering experience over a second or third season in Europe and further afield would give an ideal basis.
Any UK MIC qualified instructor or British Mountain Guide can deliver a good course in Scotland and any BMG can do likewise for the Alps.
The options really turn on whether you are going to be in the position to find climbing partners and on the balance of time & money you have.
The equipment costs for Mont Blanc guided will be a good £300-600 less as they will supply ropes etc. However you could get everything to climb it yourself for under £1000 if you are very careful, shop around and buy second hand. On the other hand you could be talking £2000 to £3000 if you walked into a shop and bought all the latest kit.
In reply to Dave Grogan:
Helmet £30
Harness £30
Rope £70
Boots £150
Crampons £80
Axe £50
Ice screw £25
2 Prussiks £5
2 Karabiners £10
2 slings £10
Headtorch £15
Gloves £20
Sunglasses £10
Total £505
You probably have everything else, you don't need fancy softshell everything for mont blanc. Woolly underwear and tracky bottoms will do fine.
My advice re Mt Blanc is get well acclimatised first so you can actually enjoy it. Certainly don't do it as your first 4000er. Be patient with the weather and get advice from the Office de Haut Montagne when you are in Chamonix, they are really helpful (especially if you make an effort with your French!)
Good Luck
Helmet £30
Harness £30
Rope £70
Boots £150
Crampons £80
Axe £50
Ice screw £25
2 Prussiks £5
2 Karabiners £10
2 slings £10
Headtorch £15
Gloves £20
Sunglasses £10
Total £505
You probably have everything else, you don't need fancy softshell everything for mont blanc. Woolly underwear and tracky bottoms will do fine.
My advice re Mt Blanc is get well acclimatised first so you can actually enjoy it. Certainly don't do it as your first 4000er. Be patient with the weather and get advice from the Office de Haut Montagne when you are in Chamonix, they are really helpful (especially if you make an effort with your French!)
Good Luck
For Mt Blanc, I plan on doing this unguided so what would be the best course of action from now. Could anyone recommend a suitable training schedule from now until June 2011. To get my fitness levels up I will be training regularly in snowdon as this is close to me and then probably the lakes and lochabar next winter.
Also would I need to go on some sort of course for this, I plan on going up the Voie des Cristalliers route so what would be the required skills needed for an ascent up this route.
Also would I need to go on some sort of course for this, I plan on going up the Voie des Cristalliers route so what would be the required skills needed for an ascent up this route.
In reply to Dave Grogan: Dave which route did you climb on Nevis?
In reply to Dave Grogan:
Are you at Uni? You should be able to get a place on the Conville course: http://www.pyb.co.uk/courses/conville.php
Get more days out on the hill in Scotland in winter for starters.
Are you at Uni? You should be able to get a place on the Conville course: http://www.pyb.co.uk/courses/conville.php
Get more days out on the hill in Scotland in winter for starters.
I just went up the tourist path, no i'm not at uni either. Will probably look for some courses in Scotland next winter, what skills would need to be covered for Mt Blanc in June?
In reply to thegoatstroker:
a day on on mont blanc...priceless
> (In reply to Dave Grogan)
> Helmet £30
> Harness £30
> Rope £70
> Boots £150
> Crampons £80
> Axe £50
> Ice screw £25
> 2 Prussiks £5
> 2 Karabiners £10
> 2 slings £10
> Headtorch £15
> Gloves £20
> Sunglasses £10
> Helmet £30
> Harness £30
> Rope £70
> Boots £150
> Crampons £80
> Axe £50
> Ice screw £25
> 2 Prussiks £5
> 2 Karabiners £10
> 2 slings £10
> Headtorch £15
> Gloves £20
> Sunglasses £10
a day on on mont blanc...priceless
In reply to thegoatstroker: Are the prices you're quoting are all for second hand equipment?
If not I want to know where you're shopping as I can't find gear that cheap these days.
If not I want to know where you're shopping as I can't find gear that cheap these days.
In reply to Mark Stevenson: If you buy second-hand or cheapest of the cheap, you can get this kind of prices. Might be ok for Mt Blanc if conditions remain good, but investing in decent gear can't hurt, especially if the guy wants to follow up with other mountains (esp. Denali).
In reply to Dave Grogan:
May be worth you browsing through a few of these kit list suggestions to give you some idea.
http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&ei=iFCNS82TNdOQjAe_zfHWDA&sa=X...
May be worth you browsing through a few of these kit list suggestions to give you some idea.
http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&ei=iFCNS82TNdOQjAe_zfHWDA&sa=X...
In reply to Dave Grogan:
You appear to be advancing your climbing career by logarithmic steps, Dave! Your proposed route on Mt Blanc may be called the 'Voie des Cristalliers' on Google, but it's usually referred to as the Gouter route. There are dozens of threads about climbing Mt Blanc by the Gouter on UKC, mainly under 'Expedition & Alpine', so if you search the Forums for "Gouter" you'll get masses of helpful (and precautionary) info and advice that will give you a good idea of what it's about.
You appear to be advancing your climbing career by logarithmic steps, Dave! Your proposed route on Mt Blanc may be called the 'Voie des Cristalliers' on Google, but it's usually referred to as the Gouter route. There are dozens of threads about climbing Mt Blanc by the Gouter on UKC, mainly under 'Expedition & Alpine', so if you search the Forums for "Gouter" you'll get masses of helpful (and precautionary) info and advice that will give you a good idea of what it's about.
In reply to thegoatstroker: It really pi**es me off when I read things like this. If you have no idea what gear costs please do not offer advice at all. It just gives people unrealistic expectations.
> (In reply to thegoatstroker) It really pi**es me off when I read things like this. If you have no idea what gear costs please do not offer advice at all. It just gives people unrealistic expectations.
you really dont want to buy cheap headtorches. or sunglasses.
In reply to portlandclimber: Agreed. If your glasses have only cost you £10 you might as well not wear any.
In reply to Richard Hall: Clearly some people have no idea.
I've bought all the gear you list, new or lightly used, for the following prices.
I've bought all the gear you list, new or lightly used, for the following prices.
> Helmet £30 - I paid this for a helmet with little use
> Harness £30 - Got one for about £25, new
> Rope £70 - Paid £140 for a pair of halfs (new) with a mate
> Boots £150 - Paid £50, boots had very little use
> Crampons £80 - Paid £25, used but still fine
> Axe £50 - Paid £50 for my first set of axes, vertiges
> Ice screw £25 - Paid a variety of prices, about £5 - 10 for 1 decent but old model, also recently picked up a grivel 360 for £25.
> 2 Prussiks £5 - Paid about £3, new, for cord
> 2 Karabiners £10 - Wiregates you can get for about £4 new
> 2 slings £10 - £2 each, new, off UKC
> Headtorch £15 - Alpkit gamma, £13
> Gloves £20 - All the gloves I own I have bought for around this price, new
> Sunglasses £10 - Paid 15 euros for 2 pairs, from Snell's.
> Harness £30 - Got one for about £25, new
> Rope £70 - Paid £140 for a pair of halfs (new) with a mate
> Boots £150 - Paid £50, boots had very little use
> Crampons £80 - Paid £25, used but still fine
> Axe £50 - Paid £50 for my first set of axes, vertiges
> Ice screw £25 - Paid a variety of prices, about £5 - 10 for 1 decent but old model, also recently picked up a grivel 360 for £25.
> 2 Prussiks £5 - Paid about £3, new, for cord
> 2 Karabiners £10 - Wiregates you can get for about £4 new
> 2 slings £10 - £2 each, new, off UKC
> Headtorch £15 - Alpkit gamma, £13
> Gloves £20 - All the gloves I own I have bought for around this price, new
> Sunglasses £10 - Paid 15 euros for 2 pairs, from Snell's.
In reply to portlandclimber: Cheap does not neccessarily mean it's bad gear.
Alpkit gamma is good.
I had mates last summer in cham climbing low ED's with regular sunglasses, with side veils added on with duc tape, and most of the front of the lense covered with tape. None got snow blindness or had any ill effect.
Alpkit gamma is good.
I had mates last summer in cham climbing low ED's with regular sunglasses, with side veils added on with duc tape, and most of the front of the lense covered with tape. None got snow blindness or had any ill effect.
In reply to bobaitken:
Wise advice.
Dave, you had very benign conditions on the Ben. The day we were on the summit of MB, there was a lot of helicopter activity -- just as you had on the Ben. When we got down, we discovered the reason. Someone had slipped on the scramble (UK Grade 1?) up to the hut and been killed.
It was only after that unsuccessful rescue that the storm hit and whiteout conditions took hold; fortunately the few late ascensionists on the hill were wise enough to turn round -- in the case of one party, 100m from the summit -- and there were no more casualties.
Wise advice.
Dave, you had very benign conditions on the Ben. The day we were on the summit of MB, there was a lot of helicopter activity -- just as you had on the Ben. When we got down, we discovered the reason. Someone had slipped on the scramble (UK Grade 1?) up to the hut and been killed.
It was only after that unsuccessful rescue that the storm hit and whiteout conditions took hold; fortunately the few late ascensionists on the hill were wise enough to turn round -- in the case of one party, 100m from the summit -- and there were no more casualties.
In reply to Richard Hall:
Helmet £30 - Cassin Rock £34.95 Walkhigh Mountaineering
Harness £30 - DMM Super Couloir Harness
£30.00 new - Field & Trek
Rope £70 - Mammut - Passion 10mm Rope 69.99 Needlesports
Boots £150 - Admittedly you need to be flexible on this to get a good fit but You should find something round this price if you keep an eye out in the sales
Crampons £80 Grivel monta rosa - needlesports
Axe £50 - Petzl Snowalker Axe 60cm Climbers shop £54.00
Ice screw £25 - Black Diamond Turbo Ice Screw (22cm) 29.99 Nevisports
2 Prussiks £5- anywhere
2 Karabiners £10- Needlesports
2 slings £10 - Anywhere
Headtorch £15 - Alpkit never let me down in 3 years
Gloves £20 - Dachsteins Needlsports
Sunglasses £10 - Argos cycling glasses 3 lenses very good in my experience.
I may be a cheapskate but with the £500 you save you could have a few more weeks climbing which is worth a lot to me.
A cupboard full of kit and no time to use it is a great shame IMHO.
Helmet £30 - Cassin Rock £34.95 Walkhigh Mountaineering
Harness £30 - DMM Super Couloir Harness
£30.00 new - Field & Trek
Rope £70 - Mammut - Passion 10mm Rope 69.99 Needlesports
Boots £150 - Admittedly you need to be flexible on this to get a good fit but You should find something round this price if you keep an eye out in the sales
Crampons £80 Grivel monta rosa - needlesports
Axe £50 - Petzl Snowalker Axe 60cm Climbers shop £54.00
Ice screw £25 - Black Diamond Turbo Ice Screw (22cm) 29.99 Nevisports
2 Prussiks £5- anywhere
2 Karabiners £10- Needlesports
2 slings £10 - Anywhere
Headtorch £15 - Alpkit never let me down in 3 years
Gloves £20 - Dachsteins Needlsports
Sunglasses £10 - Argos cycling glasses 3 lenses very good in my experience.
I may be a cheapskate but with the £500 you save you could have a few more weeks climbing which is worth a lot to me.
A cupboard full of kit and no time to use it is a great shame IMHO.
In reply to fishy1:
If by cheap you mean second-hand you realy can't tell the value. Having been a club kit secretary for something like 15 years looking after a lot of winter gear (although with not that heavy use) things that look used but OK, like axes and crampons, did sometimes break; sometimes nearly new stuff broke because people really misused them or didn't understand their limitations (eg sharping using an angle grinder). Given the dubious cost benefits I'd never advise paying more than a few quid for second hand axes or crampons unless the seller was known and the kit was genuinely hardly used.
If by cheap you mean second-hand you realy can't tell the value. Having been a club kit secretary for something like 15 years looking after a lot of winter gear (although with not that heavy use) things that look used but OK, like axes and crampons, did sometimes break; sometimes nearly new stuff broke because people really misused them or didn't understand their limitations (eg sharping using an angle grinder). Given the dubious cost benefits I'd never advise paying more than a few quid for second hand axes or crampons unless the seller was known and the kit was genuinely hardly used.
In reply to thegoatstroker:
Crap
Very basic, would not pick this as a rock climbing harness but fine for mountaineering.
Not dry treated and does not handle well
Will take a while to find a pair that fit in sales, especially if you have average sized feet.
Fine for the purpose discussed here.
Not a bad axe, good price
Not the best but adequate and good price
Agree with above.
Alpkit never let you down or this headtorch never let you down?
Rather you than me.
Yeah, good if you want to go blind.
> (In reply to Richard Hall)
> Helmet £30 - Cassin Rock £34.95 Walkhigh Mountaineering
Crap
> Harness £30 - DMM Super Couloir Harness
Very basic, would not pick this as a rock climbing harness but fine for mountaineering.
> Rope £70 - Mammut - Passion 10mm Rope 69.99 Needlesports
Not dry treated and does not handle well
> Boots £150 - Admittedly you need to be flexible on this to get a good fit but You should find something round this price if you keep an eye out in the sales
Will take a while to find a pair that fit in sales, especially if you have average sized feet.
> Crampons £80 Grivel monta rosa - needlesports
Fine for the purpose discussed here.
> Axe £50 - Petzl Snowalker Axe 60cm Climbers shop £54.00
Not a bad axe, good price
> Ice screw £25 - Black Diamond Turbo Ice Screw (22cm) 29.99 Nevisports
Not the best but adequate and good price
> 2 Prussiks £5- anywhere
> 2 Karabiners £10- Needlesports
> 2 slings £10 - Anywhere
> 2 Karabiners £10- Needlesports
> 2 slings £10 - Anywhere
Agree with above.
> Headtorch £15 - Alpkit never let me down in 3 years
Alpkit never let you down or this headtorch never let you down?
> Gloves £20 - Dachsteins Needlsports
Rather you than me.
> Sunglasses £10 - Argos cycling glasses 3 lenses very good in my experience.
Yeah, good if you want to go blind.
In reply to Richard Hall: Also bear in mind that if you are sourcing each item individually on the net then you are going to rack up postage costs quite quickly.
In reply to thegoatstroker:
That looks like the basic kit covered but I would suggest an additional set of prussiks and ice screw(one set on each side of the harness for easy access) with a spare pair of gloves and from bitter experience a spare pair of sunglasses having watched a pair of my own slide into a crevasse. You will also need helicopter/medical insurance...i use the Austrian Alpine Club (UK)...a bargain.
> (In reply to Richard Hall)
> Helmet £30 - Cassin Rock £34.95 Walkhigh Mountaineering
> Harness £30 - DMM Super Couloir Harness
> £30.00 new - Field & Trek
> Rope £70 - Mammut - Passion 10mm Rope 69.99 Needlesports
> Boots £150 - Admittedly you need to be flexible on this to get a good fit but You should find something round this price if you keep an eye out in the sales
> Crampons £80 Grivel monta rosa - needlesports
> Axe £50 - Petzl Snowalker Axe 60cm Climbers shop £54.00
> Ice screw £25 - Black Diamond Turbo Ice Screw (22cm) 29.99 Nevisports
>
> 2 Prussiks £5- anywhere
> 2 Karabiners £10- Needlesports
> 2 slings £10 - Anywhere
> Headtorch £15 - Alpkit never let me down in 3 years
> Gloves £20 - Dachsteins Needlsports
> Sunglasses £10 - Argos cycling glasses 3 lenses very good in my experience.
>
> I may be a cheapskate but with the £500 you save you could have a few more weeks climbing which is worth a lot to me.
> A cupboard full of kit and no time to use it is a great shame IMHO.
> Helmet £30 - Cassin Rock £34.95 Walkhigh Mountaineering
> Harness £30 - DMM Super Couloir Harness
> £30.00 new - Field & Trek
> Rope £70 - Mammut - Passion 10mm Rope 69.99 Needlesports
> Boots £150 - Admittedly you need to be flexible on this to get a good fit but You should find something round this price if you keep an eye out in the sales
> Crampons £80 Grivel monta rosa - needlesports
> Axe £50 - Petzl Snowalker Axe 60cm Climbers shop £54.00
> Ice screw £25 - Black Diamond Turbo Ice Screw (22cm) 29.99 Nevisports
>
> 2 Prussiks £5- anywhere
> 2 Karabiners £10- Needlesports
> 2 slings £10 - Anywhere
> Headtorch £15 - Alpkit never let me down in 3 years
> Gloves £20 - Dachsteins Needlsports
> Sunglasses £10 - Argos cycling glasses 3 lenses very good in my experience.
>
> I may be a cheapskate but with the £500 you save you could have a few more weeks climbing which is worth a lot to me.
> A cupboard full of kit and no time to use it is a great shame IMHO.
That looks like the basic kit covered but I would suggest an additional set of prussiks and ice screw(one set on each side of the harness for easy access) with a spare pair of gloves and from bitter experience a spare pair of sunglasses having watched a pair of my own slide into a crevasse. You will also need helicopter/medical insurance...i use the Austrian Alpine Club (UK)...a bargain.
In reply to Simnel:
Agreed AAC(UK) membership is a great deal.
I was just trying to show that you can kit yourself adequately without the cost being prohibitive, although I have no idea what Denali might cost!
Agreed AAC(UK) membership is a great deal.
I was just trying to show that you can kit yourself adequately without the cost being prohibitive, although I have no idea what Denali might cost!
In reply to............
I don't know Dave, but I do know that he has paid out for the cost of getting his PPL (pilots licence), so I suspect that he will be willing to shell out for some quality gear.
I don't know Dave, but I do know that he has paid out for the cost of getting his PPL (pilots licence), so I suspect that he will be willing to shell out for some quality gear.
In reply to Dave Grogan:
If you have the determination to climb Mt. Blanc and Denali, I don't think your current lack of gear will become the prohibitive factor to your success. By the time you're ready for the climbs you'd have already dedicated most of your spare time on mountaineering, a lot of money on traveling, unpaid leaves, insurance, training, books, maps... Investing on gear is just a small part of the process. When you have built up the knowledge you'll be able to work out how to buy reliable gear within a limited budget. There's no strict rule. Everyone makes their own judgment from learning and from personal experience.
Once you have dedicated more time on mountaineering you might also discover new ambitions to your original plans. Enjoy!
If you have the determination to climb Mt. Blanc and Denali, I don't think your current lack of gear will become the prohibitive factor to your success. By the time you're ready for the climbs you'd have already dedicated most of your spare time on mountaineering, a lot of money on traveling, unpaid leaves, insurance, training, books, maps... Investing on gear is just a small part of the process. When you have built up the knowledge you'll be able to work out how to buy reliable gear within a limited budget. There's no strict rule. Everyone makes their own judgment from learning and from personal experience.
Once you have dedicated more time on mountaineering you might also discover new ambitions to your original plans. Enjoy!
Thanks for the useful suggestions here. Those kit lists were pretty helpful btw moonraker, I was actually looking at the kit lists for Denali as well.
I thought it might be wise to buy just a few of the items I will need for Mt Mckinley and use them on Mt Blanc, like some very good quality boots (rather than buying a mediocre pair now and a pair of good ones in the future, works out cheaper this way and spreads the cost). Also I was thinking of getting a decent soft shell like the first ascent mountain guide, along with the other bits and pieces, ice axe and crampons.
I don't have much money unfortunately, my hobbies tend to be expensive ones! But I was gonna budget on spending about £1000 and get a credit card if I have to, then just gradually buy the remaining gear for Denali and go as soon as I have the money and experience.
I managed to find a very good climbing club locally so am gonna check this place out next week, try and learn from some people that are more experienced than myself without having to pay for the tuition, although I plan on doing a proper winter course next year.
I thought it might be wise to buy just a few of the items I will need for Mt Mckinley and use them on Mt Blanc, like some very good quality boots (rather than buying a mediocre pair now and a pair of good ones in the future, works out cheaper this way and spreads the cost). Also I was thinking of getting a decent soft shell like the first ascent mountain guide, along with the other bits and pieces, ice axe and crampons.
I don't have much money unfortunately, my hobbies tend to be expensive ones! But I was gonna budget on spending about £1000 and get a credit card if I have to, then just gradually buy the remaining gear for Denali and go as soon as I have the money and experience.
I managed to find a very good climbing club locally so am gonna check this place out next week, try and learn from some people that are more experienced than myself without having to pay for the tuition, although I plan on doing a proper winter course next year.
In reply to Dave Grogan: i would buy the following:
Jacket Mammut extr logan
Pant mammut extr logan
Boots: scarpa phantom
ice axe: grivel air tech
crampons grivel g14
screw bd turbo
harnass bd blizzard
now you can only blame yourself for not summiting...
Jacket Mammut extr logan
Pant mammut extr logan
Boots: scarpa phantom
ice axe: grivel air tech
crampons grivel g14
screw bd turbo
harnass bd blizzard
now you can only blame yourself for not summiting...
> I thought it might be wise to buy just a few of the items I will need for Mt Mckinley and use them on Mt Blanc, like some very good quality boots (rather than buying a mediocre pair now and a pair of good ones in the future, works out cheaper this way and spreads the cost).
Boots for Mont Blanc will probably be too cold on Denali, and boots on Denali would probably be too hot for Mont Blanc.
In reply to beregeil:
If only life was so simple!
> (In reply to Dave Grogan) i would buy the following:
>
>
> now you can only blame yourself for not summiting...
If only life was so simple!
In reply to Milesy:
Yep - my thoughts too.
>
> [...]
>
> Boots for Mont Blanc will probably be too cold on Denali, and boots on Denali would probably be too hot for Mont Blanc.
> [...]
>
> Boots for Mont Blanc will probably be too cold on Denali, and boots on Denali would probably be too hot for Mont Blanc.
Yep - my thoughts too.
In reply to David Grogan: just do the same as everyone else and haggle for the boots in the climbing shop or go for a bargain. Then sell them on second hand. After only one expedition, boots generally go for a good price.
In reply to beregeil:
That's a really, really stupid thing to say. There are plenty of other reasons not to be able to summit, the main one being the weather. Such statements will lead people to believe that the chief element in a successful ascent is good gear and that they should push themselves no matter what.
> [...]
> now you can only blame yourself for not summiting...
> now you can only blame yourself for not summiting...
That's a really, really stupid thing to say. There are plenty of other reasons not to be able to summit, the main one being the weather. Such statements will lead people to believe that the chief element in a successful ascent is good gear and that they should push themselves no matter what.
In reply to beregeil:
Ok just one quick question, why, after buying a single walking axe would you spend unnecessary money on crampons that (if only being used for Mt Blanc and Mt McKinley) are really not needed? G12's OR even G10's would suffice. There is no need for heavier, more expensive crampons if there is no climbing that involves two axes...
> (In reply to Dave Grogan) i would buy the following:
> ice axe: grivel air tech
> crampons grivel g14
> ice axe: grivel air tech
> crampons grivel g14
Ok just one quick question, why, after buying a single walking axe would you spend unnecessary money on crampons that (if only being used for Mt Blanc and Mt McKinley) are really not needed? G12's OR even G10's would suffice. There is no need for heavier, more expensive crampons if there is no climbing that involves two axes...
In reply to Dave Grogan:
Don't take it all too serious.. However, i wasn't joking about de g14 crampons. I explain why they are so great.
- I use them for everything. They are great for waterfall climbing, technical routes( rock and ice) etc. Just the best allround crampons at the moment. Why buy g10's ... If you want to go ice climbing they are sh*t. see it as an investment for the future. Don't waste you're money on buying crap.
Don't take it all too serious.. However, i wasn't joking about de g14 crampons. I explain why they are so great.
- I use them for everything. They are great for waterfall climbing, technical routes( rock and ice) etc. Just the best allround crampons at the moment. Why buy g10's ... If you want to go ice climbing they are sh*t. see it as an investment for the future. Don't waste you're money on buying crap.
Do you buy a Ferarri for just driving to tesco? It might look good and do the job, but for all purposes it is a waste of cash.
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