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Author Mike Bailey
Published Climbers' Club (2010)
ISBN 978-0-901601-83-4

Website www.climbers-club.co.uk/


A very thorough reassessment of the climbing on the south side of the A5, based around the ever-popular Tryfan and Cwm Idwal areas, including 140 new routes climbed since the last guide, and many ‘rediscovered’ older climbs. The new routes are at all grades and on both old and new crags. Among the latter are the Eastern Cliffs of Gallt yr Ogof, including Skyline Buttress, the location of some of the hardest climbing in Wales such as the E9 Mission Impossible.

With many action photos, all-colour photodiagrams, and 93 photoplans as well as bouldering sections by Simon Panton. The guide also has a chronology (a combination of the historical and first ascents sections), which includes short biographical notes on the leading activists over the years. Particular attention has also been given to highlighting some of the easier climbs, which are now often climbed as scrambles. A graded list and index complete the guide.

The guide also includes the climbing on the north side of the A4086 between Pen y Gwyrd and Capel Curig, and the excellent climbing on the Creigiau Llynnau Mymbyr (the Ricks and Racks).

Crags covered by this Guide
Gwynedd crags# climbsRocktypeFaces
Bristly Ridge (East Face)12RhyoliteE
Caseg Fraith Boulder44Welsh igneousNW
Clogwyn Bochlwyd18RhyoliteNW
Clogwyn Du Ymhen Y Glyder41RhyoliteNE
Clogwyn y Tarw (The Gribin Facet)89RhyoliteN
Craig Caseg Fraith Isaf16Welsh igneousNW
Craig Caseg Fraith Uchaf8Rhyolite?
Craig Marchlyn Bach20GritstoneNE
Craig Nant Bach7Volcanic tuffE
Craig Y Dwr, Craftnant55Volcanic tuff?
Craig yr Haul16RhyoliteS
Creigiau Gleision9UNKNOWNN
Creigiau Llynnau Mymbyr34RhyoliteS
Creigiau'r Dena7RhyoliteN
Cwm Cneifion33RhyoliteNW
Cwm Cywion29UNKNOWNN