Author Mike Bailey
Published Climbers' Club (2010)
ISBN 978-0-901601-83-4



A very thorough reassessment of the climbing on the south side of the A5, based around the ever-popular Tryfan and Cwm Idwal areas, including 140 new routes climbed since the last guide, and many ‘rediscovered’ older climbs. The new routes are at all grades and on both old and new crags. Among the latter are the Eastern Cliffs of Gallt yr Ogof, including Skyline Buttress, the location of some of the hardest climbing in Wales such as the E9 Mission Impossible.

With many action photos, all-colour photodiagrams, and 93 photoplans as well as bouldering sections by Simon Panton. The guide also has a chronology (a combination of the historical and first ascents sections), which includes short biographical notes on the leading activists over the years. Particular attention has also been given to highlighting some of the easier climbs, which are now often climbed as scrambles. A graded list and index complete the guide.

The guide also includes the climbing on the north side of the A4086 between Pen y Gwyrd and Capel Curig, and the excellent climbing on the Creigiau Llynnau Mymbyr (the Ricks and Racks).

Crags covered by this Guide
Conwy crags # climbs Rocktype Faces
Craig y Ffridd (Nant yr Ogof) 12 Gritstone NW
Gwynedd crags # climbs Rocktype Faces
Bristly Ridge (East Face) 18 Rhyolite E
Carnedd Y Filiast (Cairn of the Greyhound Bitch) 42 Rhyolite SE
Caseg Fraith Boulder 61 Welsh igneous NW
Clogwyn Bochlwyd 18 Rhyolite NW
Clogwyn Du Ymhen Y Glyder 41 Rhyolite NE
Clogwyn y Tarw (The Gribin Facet) 97 Rhyolite N
Craig Caseg Fraith Isaf 17 Welsh igneous NW
Craig Caseg Fraith Uchaf 8 Rhyolite ?
Craig Marchlyn Bach 22 Gritstone NE
Craig Nant Bach 8 Volcanic tuff E
Craig Y Dwr, Craftnant 55 Volcanic tuff ?
Craig yr Haul 17 Rhyolite S
Creigiau Llynnau Mymbyr 35 Rhyolite S
Creigiau'r Dena 7 Rhyolite N
Cwm Cneifion 33 Rhyolite NW
Cwm Cywion 29 - N
Devils Kitchen (Cwm Idwal) - (Clogwyn y Geifr) 92 Ice N
Drws Nodded 13 Welsh igneous NW
Foel Goch 831m (Glyderau) 22 - NE
Gallt Yr Ogof 45 Rhyolite N
Glyder Fach 112 Rhyolite N
Glyder Fawr 58 Rhyolite N
Idwal Slabs (aka Cwm Idwal) 127 Rhyolite W
Idwall Quarry / Tin Can Alley 7 Welsh igneous E
Lakeside Boulders (ogwen) 51 - SE
Milestone Buttress Boulders 146 Rhyolite ?
RAC Boulders 133 Welded Tuff all
Sub Cneifion Rib 8 Rhyolite NW
The Pillar of Elidir 12 - NE
Tryfan 162 Rhyolite E
Tryfan Bychan 8 - ?
Tryfan Fach [Little Tryfan] 30 Rhyolite NW

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