UKC

Ogwen

Ogwen
Author Mike Bailey
Published Climbers' Club (2010)
ISBN 978-0-901601-83-4

Website climbers-club.co.uk

Review

A very thorough reassessment of the climbing on the south side of the A5, based around the ever-popular Tryfan and Cwm Idwal areas, including 140 new routes climbed since the last guide, and many ‘rediscovered’ older climbs. The new routes are at all grades and on both old and new crags. Among the latter are the Eastern Cliffs of Gallt yr Ogof, including Skyline Buttress, the location of some of the hardest climbing in Wales such as the E9 Mission Impossible. With many action photos, all-colour photodiagrams, and 93 photoplans as well as bouldering sections by Simon Panton. The guide also has a chronology (a combination of the historical and first ascents sections), which includes short biographical notes on the leading activists over the years. Particular attention has also been given to highlighting some of the easier climbs, which are now often climbed as scrambles. A graded list and index complete the guide. The guide also includes the climbing on the north side of the A4086 between Pen y Gwyrd and Capel Curig, and the excellent climbing on the Creigiau Llynnau Mymbyr (the Ricks and Racks).


Crags covered by this Guide
Conwy crags # climbs Rocktype Faces
Craig y Ffridd (Nant yr Ogof) 12 Gritstone NW
Gwynedd crags # climbs Rocktype Faces
Bristly Ridge (East Face) 19 Rhyolite E
Carnedd Y Filiast (Cairn of the Greyhound Bitch) 43 Gritstone SE
Caseg Fraith Boulder 69 Welsh igneous NW
Clogwyn Bochlwyd 18 Rhyolite NW
Clogwyn Du Ymhen Y Glyder 41 Rhyolite NE
Clogwyn y Tarw (The Gribin Facet) 131 Rhyolite N
Craig Blaen y Nant 4 Rhyolite NE
Craig Caseg Fraith Isaf 21 Welsh igneous NW
Craig Caseg Fraith Uchaf 8 Rhyolite ?
Craig Marchlyn Bach 33 Gritstone NE
Craig Nant Bach 8 Volcanic tuff E
Craig yr Haul 19 Rhyolite S
Creigiau Llynnau Mymbyr 49 Rhyolite S
Creigiau'r Dena 12 Rhyolite N
Cwm Cneifion 38 Rhyolite NW
Cwm Cywion 29 - N
Devils Kitchen (Cwm Idwal) - (Clogwyn y Geifr) 92 Ice N
Drws Nodded 13 Welsh igneous NW
Foel Goch 831m (Glyderau) 24 - NE
Gallt Yr Ogof 84 Rhyolite N
Glyder Fach 120 Rhyolite N
Glyder Fawr 58 Rhyolite N
Idwal Cottage Crag 42 Welsh igneous ?
Idwal Slabs (aka Cwm Idwal) 140 Rhyolite W
Idwall Quarry / Tin Can Alley 7 Welsh igneous E
Milestone Buttress Boulders 159 Rhyolite ?
Orion Boulder 10 - ?
RAC Boulders 135 Welded Tuff all
Sub Cneifion Rib 9 Rhyolite NW
The Pillar of Elidir 26 - NE
Tryfan 167 Rhyolite E
Tryfan Fach [Little Tryfan] 30 Rhyolite NW
Y Garn 20 - all
Y Gribin 7 Rhyolite all

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