50m. An exceptionally good wall climb on "predominantly" solid rock. Similar experience to Pagan, perhaps a touch easier?? Star at the diagonal fault and follow this up and rightwards for 8m (reasonable gear). At the pod pull out leftwards onto the wall and boldly weave your way up to the break, passing a poor peg. The climbing is never that hard but very bold. On arrival at the break, scurry back and fro along this seeking out the best gear. Cross the overlaps in the centre of the wall passing a poor situ thread. (Good gear in next break). Continue up the wall more steeply and past better gear to a peg. Make harder moves passing this and another peg above. Easier ground and the top follows.

Littlejohn & Hardwick 12/Mar/1987

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

Duncan Campbell 29/Aug Lead O/S

Very good. A route of two halves with the first being bold and insecure and the top pumpy but better protected. A considered approach advised despite relatively solid rock - a single set of cams will suffice but expect to place them all and have to ration them - makes it feel good value for E4! A double set would make this feel more friendly. Another great littlejohn route!

andyinglis 07/Jun 2nd
Hidden 07/Jun Lead O/S
pete johnson 29/May 2nd rpt
Hidden 29/May Lead O/S
pete johnson 19/Apr/15 Lead β


Hidden 19/Apr/15 2nd rpt
wi11 26/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Awesome route!

with Henry F
HAJ Francis ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/14 2nd dog
markalmack 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Easy climbing on big holds and poor gear, then a short crux section at the top.

with james marjot
Hidden 30/Mar/14 Lead rpt
anguskille 03/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Loose, pretty steady, great fun. Climbing in t-shirts!

Ed Booth 03/Mar/14 Lead β

big pitch!

with Niels Ernst-Williams
Hidden 03/Mar/14 Lead O/S
tim newton 01/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Misha 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S

A memorable experience and in a way one of the best single pitch routes I've done. The rock is pretty solid but it's still pretty gripping in places, particularly up to the first break. Hard work after the Strand and Positron the previous day! Nice gentle introduction up the slanting break (5b/c with so-so gear, Tim thought this would have been the crux on lead, I thought it wasn't too bad but certainly serious),then easy to a good cam. Where next? A solitary peg shows the way. Thankfully not too hard, 5a-ish It's a bendy, rusty knife blade, pretty sure it wouldn't hold a proper fall. No other gear and looks hard going straight up but a rising leftwards traverse is more like it. Nice 5b/c sequence to gain the first break, don't fall off here or you might not be climbing again for a while if the peg snaps, which it probably would do. Then it gets steep! A succession of 5b and 5c sequences to get from one break to another, fortunately with some good rests and gear in some of the breaks (good advice on having at least a double set of cams and extending the runners). Eventually get to the second peg, decent rest. Next peg looks a long way away and there are no holds! A V3 boulder problem is the last thing you need after 35m of tough climbing. The peg is a rusty knifeblade but much better than the first one, might actually hold a small fall and there are good cams not far below. Spent ages standing next to the peg trying to figure out the crux move, climbing up and down in the hope of finding a sure fire way of doing it as didn't want to blow it! In the end just had to commit to the move and it was fine, a really nice technical move to the juggy break. Clip the peg and a small cam, happy days! Jugfest up the last few moves to the top. Made it! No chalk on the route except in some of the breaks made it feel like a voyage of discovery across a sea of funky rock. I'd say techically and physically it's E3 but deserves E4 for the serious sections and the grip factor. Fantastic!

mr mills 28/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Brilliant wall climbing, just make sure you extend your runners under the small roofs !!!

with Mick Lovatt
dan gibson 17/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with alice thompson
Alice Thompson 17/Jun/13 Lead O/S
zero six ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Good intro to Doris.

Tom Livingstone 08/May/12 Lead rpt

wicked mega cool! Dancing with Doris! haha an awesome route.

Hidden 31/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 29/Jan/12 2nd β
ksjs 15/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Immense in every sense, a great climbing experience! One of North Wales' very best. Bring lots of cams, doubles or triples of small through to medium and then some larger stuff: most will appreciate a Tech Friend 4 or similar for end of starting crack. I thought this was never hard but never easy and I was drained by the top: holding positions to place and re-place cams, continual up and down to check rock / holds. It feels quite isolated when you reach the first break after the peg and the cams are only OK. Keep trucking here though as you get even better cams in the next break and a general improvement in the rock. I just can't see this being E5 (as a few have suggested), there are too many rests and the climbing is never really physical. Indeed, if you trust this sort of rock and don't think cams in laminated and friable horizontal breaks are the devil's work then it's 'easy'. I certainly can't however see why NWR gives this easy E4, it never is and neither is Direct Hit or Mermaid for that matter, both of which are a good notch harder (I think most consider Mermaid E5 and pokey at that).

with Matt
Hidden ?/Aug/11 -
Alex Mason 19/Jul/11 Lead β

Out with Jon's birthday crew. All chalked up which I reckon makes a big difference on this route. Absolutely fucking, brilliant climbing. Between pegs I stepped right and used a quartz mini-rib to gain peg.

owain86 19/Jul/11 2nd β

Amazing pitch!

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Jul/11 Lead

Wanted to do this for years (and it didn't disappoint). Probably 'the' classic of the Lleyn, being both a stunning wall and an absorbing climb - everything adventure climbing should be about (apart from the easy approach, which clearly lets it down) ;-)

with Sam Underhill, Mat Smith
Hidden ?/May/11 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
phil64 09/Sep/10 AltLd

nick cruised even after pulling large hold off!

with nick bullock
Hidden 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S
nige 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with mark hounslea
Rob Pitt 08/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Nick Arding
Hidden 24/May/09 2nd O/S
Rich Kirby 24/May/09 Lead O/S

Great pitch.... as good as Pagan. Partner struck down with extreme man flu so headed home.

with Kev
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 03/May/09 2nd
with Ed Brown
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