Rockfax Description
Steep and fierce finger-jamming on pitch one, but perhaps not as hard as its reputation suggests. Start below the big corner of Barbarian and scramble up to the tree at the base of the crack.
1) 5c, 20m. Climb up left through a narrow chimney to gain the finger-crack. Power impressively up this, not forgetting to place runners, to a small roof. Make a testing move left round this and traverse right to the belay on Barbarian.
2) 6a, 25m. Climb Barbarian for 4m through an overlap, then move left across the wall on surprisingly good holds past a peg (?) to gain Silly Arete. Finish up this. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, Good E4s, 50 cracks to Squamish, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Cracks And Corners To Greatness, Fast & Free: Pete Livesay's Top 30 British Classics, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

jonleighton 10/Aug Lead O/S

P1 only, finished up Barbarian. I didn't find it easy. An enjoyable fight, although I don't think Tom had much fun seconding it!

Tom Livingstone 15/Jun 2nd β

P1 only

with Ben Silvestre, Tess Lyons
ferdia 06/May 2nd
with Tony Stone
shed_hed 30/Oct/16 2nd O/S

P1 only, finished up Barbarian. Just about got it by the skin of my teeth - all sorts of power grunts going on and haven't been that pumped in a long time! Was pumped by the time I got out the pod, foot slipped and I fell onto the jams before getting to the jug rest (too pumped to recover fully on that). Foot slipped again on the thinner jams above but again jams held. Somehow managed to layback-jam to get up to the roof barely hanging in there. Top lead by Glyn! I set out to lead the second pitch but it felt bold and committing and I couldn't leave Barbarian so ended up leading up that to finish. Had a harrowing time of that again which wasn't helped with my fingers bleeding everywhere. Topped out a dehydrated, bloody mess wishing I'd committed to the second pitch of Fingerlicker...

anguskille 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Really struggled on the 1st pitch, not a warm up. Thought I was off the whole time - not easy if you're not a crack climber! Glad I pulled through though, turned out to be one of the best E4's I've ever done, 3 big stars, mega!

with Ian Craigie
Hidden 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S
deacondeacon 22/May/16 Lead

Led both pitches. Onsighted the first pitch. On the second pitch I ended up trying the E6 6b by mistake and came off. Went fine when I realised my mistake. Bit annoyed that I blew the onsight by not reading the guidebook properly but only got myself to blame lol. Mega route with two varied, brilliant pitches. The crux on Silly arête feels piss when you've done this harder climbing to get to it.

soph 03/May/16 Lead O/S
with Gosia Lipinski
Hidden ??/2016 -
dswansonlow 10/Oct/15 Lead dnf

Absolute and total slap down. I lowered off the tat (replaced) because I felt ill and would have only have had to aid it.

with Ben A
Hidden 22/Jul/15 2nd
Andy Peak 1 06/Jun/15 AltLd

Second pich. One slump at the hard move( bottled it) lowers back to the belay and went from ther! Very very windy on the top of silly arête

Misha 06/Jun/15 AltLd

Not a warm up! Was pumped by the time I got to the stuck on juggy block as the initial pod is awkward and gets strenuous. Half decent rest standing up on the stuck on block but not really able to get it back. Slipped off the crack going past the tat, then again. Did it third go, only to get stuck above! Plugged a cam in and took a couple of falls onto it, literally a move off a rest. Seconded second pitch, that was fine, one 6a sequence but nowhere as sustained.

with Andy
Hidden 16/May/15 2nd
Andy Peak 1 26/Apr/15 Lead G/U

Second try! Perfect climbing, perfect gear

with Si
Andy Peak 1 11/Feb/15 Lead dnf

The best protected e4 iv bean on to date, also the hardest, got to the thread but cud no longer feel my extremities so lowered of the thread, clean and not to desperate to this point who nows what the next section will bring, very very cool.

Hidden ??/2015 -
phil64 ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 31/Aug/14 Lead rpt
jon_gill1 16/Aug/14 -

aid climbing practice with some bits free,i.e the scary start and top traverse.did p1 and chris aided top pitch of barbarian and i seconded it in trainers as it was getting dark and he had my rock shoes!abbed off in the dark!

with chris Lyness
mike mo ??/2014 -
Pieterjan De Roo 18/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Duncan Campbell 19/May/13 Lead dnf

Strenuous, with not much for your feet! Jimmy got to the thread and fell. I managed to get above, place another bit of kit then fell off once it stopped being fingerlocks and went back into thin hands! Brilliant!

with Fingers
Luke Brooks 17/Mar/13 AltLd

Led P2 again, got pumped again!

with Will
willoates 17/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Another one that I had been pretty much sure i was going to fall of, really happy to have got it clean, found it quite pumpy. Luke lead the 2nd pitch, another great pitch.

with Luke
Keendan 31/Jan/13 Lead β

P1 Nice to get back on trad and put the PE training to use. Definitely made a difference I think. I've yet to climb an E4 that isn't a finger crack... talk about a narrow skill set.

with Remus
Hidden 31/Jan/13 2nd O/S
markalmack 04/May/12 Lead O/S
david morse 04/May/12 2nd dog

Tried to lead, FAIL. Couldn't manage it clean on second, nails!

Stone Muppet 14/Apr/12 2nd dog

Nails! Though the chimney was the most nails bit...

with dan ely
gforce 09/Aug/11 Lead dnf

Ug. Not even close!

with Emma
AdrianP 29/Jun/11 Lead dog
with Olli
feilx 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Jake
jacobjlloyd 19/Jun/11 2nd dog

Another inspiring lead from Felix! I have got to stop falling off of everything he leads though. Training time. Fell off the crack on the first pitch. Ended up laybacking instead of fingerlocking pretty much the whole crack, embarrassingly, which explains the power failure. Managed the second pitch alright, felt yards easier than the first! Has crimps and everything ; ) Unbelievable line. Crafted by God for our pleasure.

with Felix
thomasadixon 29/May/11 Lead dog

Got beaten up, will have to come back. Great climbing though, learned how to ring lock!

JRae 29/May/11 Lead dnf

Hardest thing i've ever been on. Fierce!

Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Jack Geldard ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 08/Jul/10 Lead dnf
barni 09/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Luke Brooks 09/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Led top pitch. 6a ***

with Liam, Barni
Hidden 30/May/10 AltLd
dan gibson 30/May/10 AltLd O/S
with michael porter
switch 08/May/10 2nd rpt
with Leanne
Dave Turnbull, BMC 03/May/10 Lead O/S
with Geoff Bennett
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 19/Apr/10 Lead G/U
Mike Goldthorp 11/Nov/09 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch. both pitches are absolutely top notch!

Alex Mason 11/Nov/09 AltLd O/S

Awesome pitch, not mega pumpy, some well solid locks. Mikey led 2nd pitch well.

with Mikey G
switch 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S

p1 only. Abbed from belay, in the rain.

Rich Kirby 04/May/09 2nd

Pitch 1 only. Finished up Barbarian.

with Kev
Hidden 03/May/09 Lead O/S
JulesV ??/2009 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 26/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with JulesV
Hidden 20/Jul/08 2nd dog
Hidden 18/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/May/08 2nd
jeffmcd56 ??/2008 AltLd O/S
with Rob
chris j 08/Jul/06 2nd dog
with Ben Bradford
Hidden ?/Jul/06 -
bazza ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Matt Smith
Eduardo Martinez 19/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 01/May/05 Lead O/S
with Nic Sellers
Hidden ?/Mar/05 2nd dog
Hidden ??/2002 -
Seymore Butt ??/2000 -
with Terry Holmes
Dave Musgrove Jnr 04/Oct/98 AltLd O/S

fantastic struggle

with Muir Morton
Guy ??/1998 -
Hidden 22/Sep/96 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/96 Lead O/S
ste_d 20/Jul/96 2nd O/S
with mik
nokishatov 20/Jul/96 Lead
keefe ??/1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
crossleysm ?/May/94 Lead O/S
mike mo ??/1993 Lead
Hidden ??/1993 Lead RP
Nick Biven 11/Apr/92 2nd
with Rich Whitwell
Alan James - UKC and UKH 26/Jul/91 Lead
Chris Wright 30/May/91 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1990 -
Paul Clarke ??/1990 AltLd
with FMC
Chris Wright 30/May/89 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 16/Aug/88 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Hidden ??/1988 Lead
uphillnow ??/1988 Lead dog

Took a rest after initial pod. Also seconded Andrew Horn on it some years later

with Neil McNab
Bruce Kerr 21/Jul/87 Lead
with Johnny May
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
keefe 25/Aug/86 -
with Alan Wilson
Dave Musgrove 26/Aug/85 2nd
with Kim Greenald
Hidden 05/Jul/85 AltLd O/S
mark mcgowan01 ??/1985 -
Melok ??/1985 -
Hidden 01/Sep/84 2nd
Steve Lewis 20/May/84 Lead rpt
with Clive Curle
Bob 01/Apr/84 2nd β

Failed to lead the second pitch.

Mark Kemball 18/Feb/84 Lead dnf
with John Jefferies
daviesxxx ??/1984 Lead RP
stp 29/Oct/83 Lead

Lead both pitches in one.

duncan ?/May/83 Lead O/S
with Paul Smith
Mike Owen 01/Apr/83 Lead rpt
with Steve Foxley
Ian Jones ??/1983 AltLd O/S

Mega strenuous but bombproof****

with Julian Whatsisname (not Clary!)
Steve Lewis 01/May/82 Lead O/S
with Lyndsey
Mike Owen 04/May/81 Lead RP
with Mel Griffiths
mitch1960 ??/1981 Lead
with Alan Dance
William Robertson ??/1980 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden ??/1973 -
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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 21
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 18
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set