Rockfax Description
A great route with a devious but logical line. Easier (E1 5b?) for the tall. Climb the blunt arete on side-pulls to a small ledge below the steep slab. Make an awkward traverse out right to the arete then reach the horizontal break above with difficulty before traversing back left to the short finishing crack. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1955

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide), Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List, Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List, Brown & Whillans Stanage, 3 Star Stanage, Definitive *** Peak Grit.

robert-hutton 12/Oct -
Hidden 12/Aug Lead O/S
Simonfarfaraway 24/Jul 2nd O/S
with Steve Hastings
benw681 04/Jun Lead O/S

E2 5c imo

with Mick Hill
Hidden 19/Apr Lead
mat cooper ??/2017 Lead O/S
fatboyslimfast ??/2017 -
MYox 29/Aug/16 Lead dnf

Total head failure in initial traverse. A bit humbling. Will come back.

with Jon
Hidden 17/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S
charley 14/Jul/16 Lead G/U

Tireder than I thought! Arms didn't want to play and didn't get very far on the low traverse first time. Pulled the ropes, had a rest and got it second go. Great route with some nice moves.

with Ange
valentinesbabe 14/Jul/16 2nd dnf

Not so much a DNF as a DNS ... could barely get off the ground ! I would say it's harder for shorties but Joe Brown is fairly diminutive so will have to say it's harder for weaklings :D I haven't graded it as I have no idea about anything than the first couple of moves.

ralphio 05/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Nice varied climb that packs a lot in. Decent rests to be had between the hard bits and I thought the gear was ok.

with John work
bigdrew 03/Jul/16 Lead RP

Fell of the traverse first time round.. Not a good start to the day!

with Dan
kermit_uk 03/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Great route E1 5b felt about right being a 6 footer.

Hidden 16/May/16 Lead dnf
PeteWilson 06/May/16 Lead O/S

very warm and humid. reckon its deffo worth E2. hard start, dodgy gear and hard finish. ace route though

Hillson 06/May/16 2nd
samt 19/Apr/16 Lead
with Nic Kidd
Hidden 25/Mar/16 2nd β
Twisty 25/Mar/16 Lead O/S

Tricker than expected crux above (and below) where I expected the crux to be! Small cams protect. Top traverse is easy if very little for the feet.

with Andrew Bishop
ian d f 14/Feb/16 Lead O/S
onlyfoddington 14/Feb/16 2nd dog

Pleased I managed two tricky bits, but failed to get established after the initial bold traverse.

with Ian
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden 05/Jun/15 Lead dnf
Nick1812P 03/Jun/15 Lead O/S
drysori 16/May/15 Lead
with Everyone!
Brannock 16/May/15 2nd
Canyak ??/2015 -
Nick205228 ??/2015 Lead
Hardcore Pat 04/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Chris Vanderz
robblowen 31/Aug/14 2nd β
with Jonny
ashtond6 31/Aug/14 Lead rpt
deacondeacon 13/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Tried the direct but backed off onto this. I've probably seconded this in the past but not sure. Not as good as 'The Count'.

Joris.Roulleau 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
manwithacam 21/Jun/14 2nd

started off leading this. Starting moves committing and scary. Then I came off on traverse move. Joris took over and lead route. Great route, each section is hard including getting feet up to reach top break, balancy. A classic.

with Joris
a13x 05/May/14 2nd O/S
Haydn Jones 28/Apr/14 Lead O/S


with neil jobling
bencole ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Dad
the power 03/Mar/14 Lead dog

E1 5b? my arse

with Andy
Ben Bransby ??/2014 Lead
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Hidden 12/Nov/13 2nd
Stig 12/Nov/13 Lead O/S

First grit lead for just over 2 years! Can see why it confuses the grade allocating committee.

clukins 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S
lisaboldini 22/Sep/13 2nd β

WOW this was a crazy climb. Start with a difficult boulder problem to get off the ground. Then do another powerful boulder problem to get to the arete. Reach (stay away if short) for the slopey shelf, and traverse across the slab with no feet. Two BOMBER hand jams while doing this. (I never wanted to leave those hand jams.) Complete the traverse with a lot of swearing anti-committal feelings, get the jug, and a smooth finish from there. One of those most interesting climbs, not ready for that lead but can't believe I got it clean seconding. Top of my abilities.

dr_botnik 10/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Mackie
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/May/13 Lead
with Benno Wagner
marcduhig 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Richard, Owen
AlexRenshaw 06/Oct/12 TR
with Tim Raffle, Mike Dawes
Hidden 09/Sep/12 2nd dog
leon 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S

took a while to work out the crux, kept trying to stay to high. head was a little fried on the top traverse so rather than using lots of nice hand jams i traversed the break as one long sloper. found the start hard too (started up abacus by mistake)!!

with Derek
cobweb 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S

complex climb , lovely

with martyn hopson
MikeLeeds 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with John McMahon
jwpil 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Deacon
jshields 05/Aug/12 Lead
davewsargent 05/Aug/12 2nd
roberto18 28/Jul/12 Lead
with Tom Nickols
Hidden 22/May/12 2nd
nigel pearson 20/May/12 Lead O/S

tough climb but great adventure

with Robin
mtempest 20/May/12 Lead

Had one rest and mini fall on traverse. Lowered and then tried a slightly lower traverse line to the arete.

Steve Waters, Mynydd 20/May/12 2nd

Magnificent and epic! The crux for me was the first rightwards traverse - I really struggled to get established at the foot of the arete (not helped by the rope from above becoming wedged around the nose of the flake). From there it was joyous. The top traverse seemed ok with the use the 2 slots in the wall above.

cem 01/Apr/12 Lead dnf

Couldn't work out how to do the traverse to the arete & gave up

Hidden ??/2012 -
mark20 19/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Will Hunt 16/Oct/11 2nd dog


with Duncan MacNeil
Hidden 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/11 Lead RP
Dave Foster 18/Sep/11 2nd


with Si 2
JRae 15/Sep/11 Lead
with T Anthistle, C Middleton
London Luke ?/Aug/11 Lead
kitkat78 02/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Steve C, Graham P
Jonathan Hall 24/Oct/10 Lead rpt

Felt E2 i though, one spill on the crux, great route mind.

Hidden 24/Oct/10 Lead rpt
disturbed_one51 24/Oct/10 2nd
with Wee man
Cake 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S

E1. 5c move is safe and there are lots of rests. One of my best climbs of the year though.

with Matt
Oliver Houston 24/Oct/10 2nd
Hidden 17/Oct/10 Lead
Cragrat Rich 17/Oct/10 Lead

Led ground up about five years after failing and then retreating from the traverse right. Went fine today! Stuck crucial jams at either end of a splits type manoever then styled it out to glory

Hidden 02/Oct/10 2nd O/S
chrishedgehog 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Sep/10 Lead O/S
eduardo 05/Sep/10 2nd
with Brian R
masa-alpin 15/Aug/10 Lead dog

I first attempted direct, which was graded 5b in the old guidebook we had (but now 6a in the definitive guidebook and UKC!), but could not commit in a greasy condition in high temperature, then tried to climb down to do this route; a pebble I was holding to snapped and I fell off --- gutted. The rest was still somehow nerve-wrecking (and found a bit harder for the short), but went OK.

with Gordon
Diggler 24/Jul/10 2nd
Hidden 02/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 14/Feb/10 Lead O/S


with Rob
buxtoncoffeelover ??/2010 2nd
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Hidden ?/Dec/09 -
Hidden 15/Nov/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Nov/09 2nd O/S
Boy ?/Nov/09 -
with Fiona Fullwood
Hidden 10/Oct/09 Lead O/S
RCrockford 19/Sep/09 2nd

Definitely not E1! Very physical sort of climb, top traverse is a bit desperate.

with Mark D
Diggler 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Feckin hard for E1

chris sm 13/Jun/09 2nd dog

I hate this route.

Hidden 13/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Coel Hellier 24/May/09 Lead
williamsf1 02/May/09 Lead O/S

Solid E2, was my first E2 lead and it was scary but awesome

with rich buswell
quiffhanger ??/2009 Lead
lowersharpnose 25/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Tricky traverse.

with MarkWesterman
Hidden 25/Sep/08 2nd dog
Andrew Barker 17/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Alex Mason 17/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Awesome classic

with Andy B, Hannah
morganator 12/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Greg Cunninghan
Hidden ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Nicos 15/Jul/08 Lead O/S
NickHobbs ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with MikeT
Ian Parnell ?/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Jon Winter
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Hidden 12/Oct/07 2nd O/S
Jimbo C 08/Sep/07 2nd dog
Mattyk 08/Sep/07 2nd
Hidden 10/Jul/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/07 -
Hidden ?/Jun/07 TR
tom.e 20/May/07 Lead O/S

E2 in the new stanage guide! ha!

with Pete
featuresforfeet 11/Mar/07 Lead dnf

Didn't have the head to move above the tiny gear I had in the crack so down climbed for another day. Seemed hard for HVS.

with Ian R
Hidden 04/Feb/07 Lead
Duncan I ??/2007 -
Joe Costello 21/Oct/06 Lead O/S
MeMeMe 22/Apr/06 Lead O/S

Quite a tricky one, almost fell off a couple of times!

with Nick
Jack Symmons ?/Feb/06 -
with Chris T
Pete Graham ??/2006 2nd
with Tom Everett
Hidden 13/Nov/05 Lead
Hidden 15/May/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Mar/05 Lead rpt
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Gus 01/Nov/04 Lead O/S
Smelly Fox ?/Oct/04 2nd
cem 01/Aug/04 Lead dnf
with Rod Strachan
mark s ??/2004 Solo O/S
NeilGriffiths 27/Sep/03 -
with Simon Frost
andybirtwistle 20/Sep/03 -
Hidden ?/Feb/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2002 -
chris sm 19/May/01 2nd dog
with Dom Goodridge
Hidden 19/May/01 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/May/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2001 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Lead dnf
Hidden 13/Jun/99 2nd
cem 25/Apr/98 2nd
Roget 26/Jan/97 Lead rpt
with jon
RossG123 ??/1997 Solo
Hidden 20/Apr/96 Lead O/S
Phill Mitch ??/1996 Lead O/S
with kurt
nai ??/1995 Lead
Martin Bennett 03/Oct/93 -
with SF, MT
Hidden ??/1993 Solo
Michael Hood 03/May/92 Lead
WB ??/1992 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 20/Oct/91 Lead
Stoney Boy 28/Apr/91 2nd O/S
with Colin Hughes
NickJH ?/Jul/90 Lead
with I Smith
Roget ??/1989 2nd O/S
with jim
Hidden 29/Dec/88 Lead
goi.ashmore 05/Jun/88 Lead O/S
with Dave Forster
Hidden ?/May/88 Lead O/S
BRUCESTRAC ??/1988 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
sadams ?/Sep/87 Lead
with Mark Bonham
charlesmfrench 04/Jul/87 2nd O/S
Rob Davies ?/Jun/87 Lead dnf
with Mick Moss
Hidden 12/Jun/86 -
Hidden ?/Apr/85 -
mark-abz 15/Nov/84 TR
Dave Musgrove 21/Jul/83 AltLd
with Kim Greenald
Hidden 24/May/81 Lead
Mark Kemball 12/Aug/79 Lead
with Paul Clark
clanger ??/1972 -
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 49
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 51
Votes cast 46
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set