Rockfax Description
The thin crack in the left-hand side-wall of the gully has some good moves where you could do with knowing how to jam. Big cams can help and hinder. © Rockfax
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
mountainremedy | 7 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Miles harder than Amazon Crack and Mutiny Crack at Burbage! Harder than a lot of VS 4cs in the peak. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Miles harder than Amazon Crack and Mutiny Crack at Burbage! Harder than a lot of VS 4cs in the peak. |
||||
JHiley | 27 Jan, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: HS 4b is fine. Nowhere near as hard as Amazon crack or Mutiny crack at Burbage. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: HS 4b is fine. Nowhere near as hard as Amazon crack or Mutiny crack at Burbage. |
||||
Fidget | 26 Mar, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Really enjoyed this. One of those routes it's so obvious what you have to do and where the gear is you can really enjoy it. The top niche was a bit damp this weekend, so I jammed both shoulders in to prevent me slipping - which was quite painful and made it harder to top out! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Really enjoyed this. One of those routes it's so obvious what you have to do and where the gear is you can really enjoy it. The top niche was a bit damp this weekend, so I jammed both shoulders in to prevent me slipping - which was quite painful and made it harder to top out! |
||||
John Parkin | 25 Jul, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Led this as one to finish off the evening last week and couldn't believe the grade. Though short it is at least VS 4c (possibly even 5a). Like someone above, I laybacked the upper wider section after getting a good friend in the back of it. John Parkin | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Led this as one to finish off the evening last week and couldn't believe the grade. Though short it is at least VS 4c (possibly even 5a). Like someone above, I laybacked the upper wider section after getting a good friend in the back of it. John Parkin |
||||
Tom Randall - Lattice Training | 6 Jun, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: What a massive sandbag at HS. It's an excellent route though and the jamming is really good quality straight in. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: What a massive sandbag at HS. It's an excellent route though and the jamming is really good quality straight in. |
||||
Nutkey | 9 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Looked nice, but I can't really jam that well. Failed to get established, and backed off. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Looked nice, but I can't really jam that well. Failed to get established, and backed off. |
||||
Simon Caldwell | 17 Apr, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Definitely VS 4c, and high in the grade at that. And Steve - 'you must jam' - not true, my partner laybacked it! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Definitely VS 4c, and high in the grade at that. And Steve - 'you must jam' - not true, my partner laybacked it! |
||||
Toby Dunn | 1 Aug, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: blatantly VS, and not an easy one either. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: blatantly VS, and not an easy one either. |
||||
Crammy | 24 Jul, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Thought I was a competent HS leader and reasonable jammer before I tried this. If this is HS 4b I'm off to reappraise my status. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Thought I was a competent HS leader and reasonable jammer before I tried this. If this is HS 4b I'm off to reappraise my status. |
||||
Dan_S | 15 Jun, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: New to leading HS, and wish I'd read this before I had a go at the route! Flipping hard! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: New to leading HS, and wish I'd read this before I had a go at the route! Flipping hard! |
||||
Nick Smith - Climbers | 14 Jun, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Nice jamming route, but a cruel sandbag at only HS 4b (and probably HVS 5b if you can't jam!) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Nice jamming route, but a cruel sandbag at only HS 4b (and probably HVS 5b if you can't jam!) |
||||
helix | 27 May, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: surely this is harder than HS 4b. as i bumped into Mr Craggs half an hour after doing it, i told him as much! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: surely this is harder than HS 4b. as i bumped into Mr Craggs half an hour after doing it, i told him as much! |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stoney Middleton)