Rockfax Description
The thin crack in the left-hand side-wall of the gully has some good moves where you could do with knowing how to jam. Big cams can help and hinder. © Rockfax

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage 100 VD - VS, Stanage for Crack Apprentices.

DaveFidler 29/Oct/17 Lead O/S
Sarah Jenkins 29/Oct/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Oct/17 Lead O/S
Pixie-Andy 15/Oct/17 Lead O/S

Rupert took unexpected fall onto my last minute loaned Golden cam! Definitely solid VS 4c, maybe even 5a. An awkward test of jamming skills, may take longer than expected.

with Rupert
Hidden 08/Oct/17 Lead
amccann 10/Aug/17 Solo O/S
Blod 04/Aug/17 Lead rpt
with Tony S
Droyd 31/May/17 Lead O/S
with Jimmy
milena 13/May/17 Lead O/S

Not particularly enjoyable.

Hidden 01/May/17 2nd O/S
djones66 23/Apr/17 2nd O/S

Short but tough. Have little hands which helped higher up as was able to jam in the narrower section at the back of the crack. Jams all the way, and fairly secure though uncomfortable for hands and feet.

with Stve mc D
MikeyP 19/Apr/17 2nd
Deezel65 18/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Tricky little number

Hidden 18/Apr/17 2nd
Kemics 27/Mar/17 Lead O/S

Logically it should be HS 4c... although I very nearly came off. Put cams in all the hand placements. Shouted down a brief explanation of handjamming to RAJ and she actually did it!

with RAJ
Fred Lazell 25/Mar/17 Lead
Handsforfeet 15/Oct/16 Lead

The crack is steep and a little pumpy

with Julie
TobyA 15/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Pete
Hidden 25/Sep/16 Lead dnf
Bones [:B 18/Sep/16 2nd dog
guy127917 18/Sep/16 Lead dnf
with Jen
MusicalMountaineer 14/Jul/16 Lead O/S


Blod 03/Jul/16 Lead rpt
runestone 03/Jul/16 2nd
Ndawson 18/Jun/16 Lead dnf
Hidden 30/May/16 2nd
SteveM 22/May/16 Lead
with Kat
kitkat78 22/May/16 2nd
with SteveM
Andy Moles 24/Feb/16 Solo O/S
with -
mattb42 11/Oct/15 2nd O/S
with Clive
Lenny 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Gayle
Hidden 04/Sep/15 Lead β
No? Yes! 04/Sep/15 2nd

Good lead by Matt. Classic jamming that I cannot ( will not ? ) do !

keitht 27/Jun/15 2nd
dewiturton 27/Jun/15 Lead
with keitht
Andrew Abraham 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S

8 Replacement for Count's Crack due to Ousal birds. An adequate replacement, probably one of the harder leads of the day, it makes up for it's short stature with a testing jamming section. Not sure why it gets HS, it was harder than a lot of the VS's on the challenge (VS in my guide, hence why we chose it).

with Paul Deane
DanChad 30/May/15 2nd O/S
Chris Murray 30/May/15 Lead
Jim Malo 10/May/15 2nd β
with Nick, Mark
soph 17/Apr/15 Solo
morganator 17/Apr/15 Solo
Flavio 06/Apr/15 Solo O/S
Matt Harmon 31/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Carla
Bullybones 18/Oct/14 2nd
with Neil
ashtond6 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S


ashtond6 31/Aug/14 Lead


Hidden 18/May/14 2nd rpt
Nick1812P 04/Apr/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 12/Mar/14 Lead
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
deacondeacon 24/Nov/13 Lead O/S

In the rain. Started in approach shoes but had to go back down for rock shoes. A particularly miserable day at Stanage.

alexm198 10/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Lovely jamming, though my hands beg to differ. Definitely VS.

with Jing Zhang, Tommy Ogden
Hidden 01/Oct/13 Lead
fuzzysheep01 01/Oct/13 2nd dog
egg-man 04/Sep/13 2nd
with John Pickles
Binder 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Rich H
SecretSquirrel 30/Jun/13 Lead
with j-ro
Marq 30/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Hazel led after JR had fallen off

Hidden 30/Jun/13 2nd
Brown 19/May/13 Solo
with Solo
riff156 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Jo Smith
Bry 20/Apr/13 2nd β
with Fran
Blue68 20/Apr/13 2nd RP

Tried to lead this but couldn't get the crux, backed off and let Alan lead but still struggled when I was second

hotfeet 20/Apr/13 Lead
Katya 20/Apr/13 2nd
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 20/Apr/13 Lead rpt
Fran S8 20/Apr/13 Lead
christiaanfhunt ?/Mar/13 Lead β

Hexcentrics worked well as passive in crack

with Carl Worrall
AlanPedrick ??/2013 -
Roonix 21/Oct/12 2nd dog

A grade I've climbed before, but completely messed up how to jam. Very frustrating, just as i got the gist it was over!

Jimbo C 07/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Packs a punch for it's short length. You really have to get both hands and both feet jammed in at one point.

with Chris, Spiros
stemill 06/Oct/12 Lead dog

Good fun, but definitely not HS!

with Mark
Diggler 06/Oct/12 2nd

Hahahaah HS my bum VS any day of the week.

with stemill
RichardMc 08/Sep/12 Lead
with Dave Langmead
benny_m 02/Sep/12 Lead dog
with Richard Hemes
mes32 01/Sep/12 2nd β

Too wide to jam, just laybacked the whole thing, not too bad but no way HS 4b!

with Wilki
Vnockles 01/Sep/12 2nd
will_benfold 01/Sep/12 2nd O/S
cameron_hall 01/Sep/12 Lead dog

The most dogged bit of doggy-style dogging that I've ever done. I probably just need more practice at crack climbing, but I found the top half much more difficult than I expected, especially when it turned into laybacking on footjams.

Hidden 02/Aug/12 Lead O/S
rockman 13/Jun/12 Lead O/S
timcedwards 13/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden 10/Jun/12 Solo O/S
Dom Whillans 12/May/12 2nd
with a.crook
nameless_rob 21/Mar/12 2nd
with Graham
Rob Davies 11/Mar/12 2nd
with Dave Rimmer, Phil Ashton
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Paul1 29/Oct/11 Lead

Rested 2se on the same cam. was damp so was hard to keep jams in. Definitely VS. The crack is too thin to get proper jams in for the first bit.

with Nicole
flyinfrenchy 29/Oct/11 TR O/S
Yanis Nayu 22/Sep/11 Lead dnf
with Andy
Hidden 01/Sep/11 2nd
MPSBunny 29/Aug/11 Lead dog

If slumping onto gear counts as falls . . . three or four rests on gear before summing up the courage to finish the upper half of the crack. This probably would've been easier if I hadn't just done Count's Buttress which had pretty much demolished me. Thoughtful placement of cams would have helped as well as the crack flared upwards towards the top and I placed my cam in the last good jam. Ran out the end quite a bit as well due to getting really tired.

Jim Malo 20/Aug/11 2nd dog

We both fell off.

with Mikael
Jim Malo 20/Aug/11 Lead dnf
with Mikael
Mikael 20/Aug/11 Lead
Adam1973 14/Aug/11 Lead rpt
stewart murray 14/Aug/11 2nd
ben_250 14/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Tom
Hidden 14/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 09/Jul/11 2nd
daviesp2 01/Jul/11 2nd dog

HS 4b!

with Tom
freemanTom 01/Jul/11 Lead dog

Had little fall. Stopped clenching fist jam at 100% and out I popped. HS? No!

with Paul Davies
kitkat78 02/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with Steve C, Graham P
al123 07/Apr/11 Lead O/S

nice jamming

PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
stuc ??/2011 -
Hidden 16/Oct/10 2nd dog
fatbuoybazza 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S

A mini file, so not HS 4b..pretty good wee route

with daveyw
HimTiggins 05/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Kim
geddicakes 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Katya 04/Sep/10 2nd
with Ben Burns
Hidden 04/Sep/10 2nd
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
buxtoncoffeelover 25/Aug/10 2nd
James Moyle 25/Jul/10 TR

A nightmare! I started leading this and backed off not feeling very secure with the jamming. I consider myself a solid VS leader and haven't backed off a VS in years. The crack then ate my cam! Grrrr

Mr. K 24/Jul/10 Lead dog
SteveM 24/Jul/10 Lead
with Kat
kitkat78 24/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with SteveM
Graeme Hammond 23/May/10 Solo rpt

uuum jamming, nice

Martin Cooper 27/Apr/10 2nd
with Peter Bold 17/Apr/10 Lead
with jamesca
Hidden 17/Apr/10 2nd dog
colin milton 13/Mar/10 Lead dog
with chris orme
Hidden ?/Dec/09 -
Hidden 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Oct/09 2nd O/S
catblack 16/Oct/09 2nd
SGD 04/Oct/09 -

Dale and I decided to go back to Jamming school on this one and didn't layback it...we found it utterly nails and fell off! Great fun....we can't jam but we are learning (god know why we want to) , there's no other way really.

Hidden 23/Jul/09 Lead
daveclarke5 12/Jul/09 2nd
with Andy
peggy_on_the_rocks 05/Jul/09 2nd
with Dan
theo.mooney ?/Jul/09 2nd
with Mary Moloney
Hidden 02/May/09 Lead dog
BorisVBlade 02/May/09 2nd dog
cem 29/Mar/09 2nd
HansUDes 21/Mar/09 Solo O/S

VS, 4c, self-belay, Stanage Guidebook, no 9, p104

kermit_uk 01/Mar/09 Lead dog
with Steve Woolass
Wil Treasure ??/2009 Lead
Wil Treasure ??/2009 Lead
Wil Treasure ??/2009 Lead
Wil Treasure ??/2009 Lead
Macca_7 27/Dec/08 2nd O/S

Thuggy lay back up the tricky crack

Hidden 27/Dec/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Nov/08 Lead O/S
Jim Slater 22/Nov/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/08 TR
Hidden 28/Sep/08 TR
Tez29 14/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Mousey
Hidden 23/Aug/08 Lead rpt
Shauna 20/Aug/08 2nd O/S
victim of mathematics 07/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Definitely fair at VS 4c. You just need to summon a bit of gumption and go for it up the crack. Oh, and being able to jam is pretty crucial :)

with Annelies
gnc760 30/Jun/08 Lead dog
with Rose Williams
Rose Williams 30/Jun/08 2nd
with Gareth
Reaver2k 20/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Nothing like a good jamming crack to shatter your ego. Struggled with this unfortunately even though I've been going pretty good lately! Moved up and hands into the crack quite easily, pretty much perfect hand jams, lockers. Then I came to realise there was nothing for my feet except the crack, wearing my excruciatingly painful Galileos! It was literally like sticking my naked feet into a grater, then twisting. Needless to say I became a wimp very quickly and started thugging my way up with my hands, not a good idea! The jams get wider and wider the higher up you get but are generally pretty ok. Unfortunately I kept sticking my feet in and not twisting enough because of the pain meaning they slipped down hurting even more and putting more weight on my arms. After the 3 metre crack, I ended up exhausted doing a shoulder jam whilst I caught my breath. I will be back with some sloppier shoes and a couple of pairs of socks soon! Well protected and a nice line, just short. VS 4c I would say.

pog100 20/Jun/08 2nd
westong 08/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden 08/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Strong Steve 09/Mar/08 Lead O/S
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Hidden 27/Sep/07 Lead rpt
Hidden 11/Aug/07 2nd
Mutl3y 17/Jun/07 2nd

Cleanly seconded with lots of beta after falling out on lead. And having tried and failed in the past. Must. Jam. Harder!

with Tony
Hidden 17/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Twisty 10/Jun/07 Lead dog
with Graeme Hammond
Graeme Hammond 10/Jun/07 2nd O/S
richgibson ?/Jun/07 2nd
dannyboy83 ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Floris
craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Solo
Katya 03/Feb/07 2nd O/S

My first jamming ascent :) Easier if you know HOW to jam.

with Iain
Hidden ??/2007 -
mattwyles1 ?/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Nicos 30/Sep/06 Solo O/S
with solo
Hamster 23/Sep/06 Lead dnf

Fell off the crux move into the big crack. New guide grade may well be fair at VS felt like I'd sandbagged myself!

with Ian Thurgood
adam carless 09/Sep/06 Lead O/S

VS 4c in my guide. Easier if you can jam though.

with Pali, Stefan
slkulick 09/Sep/06 2nd dog

Expect you forearms to be twice their normal size by the time you finish. adam carless wrote: "Easier if you can jam..." ...bleeding knuckles if you can't.

with Adam
Hidden 07/Sep/06 Lead O/S
ChrisBrooke 18/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Carole Baker, Elved Roberts
Nutkey ?/Jul/05 Lead dnf

Couldn't get established in the crack

Simon Cahill 20/May/05 Lead O/S
with Jonathon Cahill
Hidden ??/2005 -
Tobias at Home ??/2005 -
Hidden 12/Jun/04 2nd
Cake 12/Jun/04 Lead
with Matt
Simon Caldwell 17/Apr/04 TR O/S

after failing on lead. At least VS 4c.

with Carmen
edmitchell ??/2004 Lead O/S
with kai ren
Hidden 03/Aug/03 Lead
Mark Stevenson 14/Jun/03 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/May/02 Lead
Hidden ??/2002 -
Hidden ??/2002 Lead
Roget 23/Sep/01 Solo O/S
Blod 09/Sep/01 Lead O/S
with Dave B
nigehughes ?/Jul/01 Lead
with Conor Cairns
Pete Nugent 13/May/01 2nd
with Julie Wheatley (CC), Rob Wheatley (CC)
Ben Bransby ??/2001 Solo
Iain Thow 17/May/99 TR

Both Phil and I failed to lead this, I fell off once on top rope. Both of us were happily leading VS at the time. Only 4b if you've got huge fists?

with Phil Goacher, Chris Bryant
babymoac 10/Sep/90 Lead
with Wendy Lesley & Deek
Martin Bennett 08/Aug/90 -
with John Considine
Hidden 08/Mar/90 Solo
Andy Say 02/Jul/89 Solo
tapley 22/Jun/88 -
BRUCESTRAC ??/1988 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
Chris Ellis 07/Apr/84 2nd
with Dave Whaley
Hidden 29/Mar/78 Solo
Hidden 29/Mar/78 Solo
mike bridges 08/Oct/77 Lead O/S
with Neil Gregory
Hidden 11/Jul/65 TR
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 61
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 60
Votes cast 45
Style of ascent
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