Rockfax Description
Climb the right-hand edge of the slab then reach the hanging groove by a traverse from the right. Enter it by a puzzling layback sequence then bung in some gear and sprint to safety. The hardest of the old Stanage Extremes! © Rockfax

FA. Pat Fearneough 1961-63

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, Stanage E2 Challenge (1989 Guide).

Coel Hellier 04/May Lead
patrickcd 06/Apr 2nd
richiebongo 25/Mar Lead dog

Had tried this 10 years previously but couldn't get up it so was pleased with at least making the moves. Will come back, must get stronger.

with Didymus
FelixJT 12/Mar 2nd
WilliamRupp 12/Mar Lead O/S
with felix
mat cooper ??/2017 Lead O/S
Bettymolly ??/2017 2nd O/S
littleduck 04/Dec/16 2nd dog
with Tony Madden
amccann 03/Oct/16 2nd dog
with Dom
dom94 03/Oct/16 Lead G/U

Fell off after messing up the layback step up. Got it next go.

manwithacam 11/Sep/16 Lead dnf

Utterly spat off. Crashing to reality. Gritstone is just hard.

with Alan
tebs 05/Apr/16 2nd β

Watched what Burn did quite carefully. Will be back to lead this one in the near future I hope - good route and good gear.

with Burns
The old James turnbull 05/Apr/16 Lead
with simon kimber, bart shaw
ian d f 14/Feb/16 Lead O/S


onlyfoddington 14/Feb/16 2nd dog

Genuinely fell off about 4 times, not because I was tired but because it was too hard - first to step across and then later to ascend the bottom of the groove.

with Ian
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 16/May/15 Lead G/U
with Roisin
dan_o_b ??/2015 2nd dog
climberchristy 05/Oct/14 Lead rpt

Fell off crux but then lowered and repeated it as clean ascent. A really interesting set of moves to get established in the groove and then stays hard for longer than you think after that. Hard for E2 5c!

with bencole
Nick1812P 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Calum harvey
charvey 13/Sep/14 2nd dog

Found it to be absolutley nails. A combiantion of jumpimg and pullling on th erope took me through the crux.

lena.drapella 31/Aug/14 2nd dog
dannyboy83 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Lena, Banksy
Albachoss 31/Aug/14 Lead dog

It's full on after the traverse

with lena, Dan
HarryBowyer 15/Jul/14 Lead dnf
HarryBowyer 15/Jul/14 TR
soph 09/Mar/14 2nd
with Andy Reeve
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
EmileCilliers 06/Jun/13 Lead O/S
deacondeacon 03/Mar/13 Lead

Mate reckons I've climbed this before but I don't remember. Went fine, great route.

Andy Peak 1 02/Mar/13 Lead

Fell once didnt se the good foot to the side of the arete

with H washbrook
Hidden ??/2013 -
Andy Peak 1 01/Sep/12 2nd
with Andrew Deckon
Coel Hellier 15/Jul/12 Lead dog
Tom Doldon 10/Jun/12 Lead dnf

The crack is very flared

with John Doldon
tom.e 20/Mar/12 Lead
Hidden 01/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Palindrome ?/Mar/12 2nd

Several rests before overcoming the layback.

Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
mark20 19/Nov/11 Lead O/S
bigdrew 19/Nov/11 2nd O/S
with Mark R
elCapitano 03/Sep/11 Lead dnf
with Coatesy
Hidden 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 10/May/11 Lead O/S

quality but hard crux sequence

Jim Slater 10/May/11 2nd dog
highlux 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Desperate! Very nearly fell off.

uphillnow ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
john lynch 16/Nov/10 2nd O/S


with joe grondowski, Lewis Andrew
Si dH 16/Oct/10 Lead dog

Did crux, got to first decent hold in the crack, got a nut in which was ok but then my head went, not enough recent mileage and I got disco leg in a major way. Faffed an unnecessary cam in just above the nut but then that blocked my hold so I couldnt do anything other than grab it as my other hand pumped out. Stupidity. Annoying as it was only about HVS from then onwards! :oS Good route. Didnt think the crux was too bad.

with Neil Furniss
thomasadixon 02/Oct/10 Lead RP

Nails! Had to have a bunch of goes to work out the sequence, chuffed to get it in the end.

with Mike
Hidden 12/Sep/10 2nd dog
Lev 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S
geddicakes 04/Sep/10 Lead RP

Fell to the fern ledge a few times. claiming it as worked

Hidden 04/Sep/10 2nd
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Coel Hellier ?/May/10 Lead dog
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Hidden ?/Dec/09 -
Boy ?/Sep/09 -
with Nige Kershaw
Alex@home ?/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with The Doctor
Nicos 18/Aug/09 Lead O/S
HimTiggins 21/Jun/09 2nd dog

Really technical, and pumpy. Too much so for me!

with John
Hidden 17/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Dan 85 06/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Rich
Hidden 06/Apr/09 2nd
pigeonslipper ??/2009 Lead
Hidden 17/Aug/08 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jul/08 TR dog
Hidden 17/Jun/08 Lead O/S
andy gravestock 03/Apr/08 Lead O/S

felt more like an e3 than a e2 but really good climbing never the less.

with tall tom
Hidden 09/Feb/08 Lead rpt
craig d ??/2008 -
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Jim Walton ??/2008 -
alaan 04/Nov/07 Lead dnf

Couldn't get the thought of the ledge out of my mind so slumped onto gear and went up the VS to the left instead.

with Grant
nacnud 20/Oct/07 Lead dog

Pumped out finding gear after making the move out of the break.

dan gibson 02/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with jon redshaw
JPGR 02/Mar/07 2nd
with Daniel
Alex Mason 28/Jun/06 Lead O/S

ok it wasnt actually an onsight, but the first time up i had no chalk and the holds are slopey. got some chalk and found it safe and interesting 5c

Hidden ?/Dec/05 Lead
goi.ashmore 28/Aug/05 Solo RP
with Roy Thomas
Hidden 30/Mar/05 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
chris sm ?/Aug/04 2nd
with Pippa Froggatt
Daniel Armitage 05/Jul/04 Lead O/S
Mark Collins 22/May/04 Lead O/S
with Andrew Eakins
Hidden ??/2004 Lead RP
sadams 05/Oct/03 Lead O/S
with Tom Briggs
Mark Stevenson 14/Jun/03 2nd O/S
Chris Reid 13/Jul/02 Lead O/S
Ben Bransby 19/Apr/02 Solo
Dave Musgrove Jnr 24/Mar/02 Lead O/S
with Viv
Hidden ??/2002 -
Ropeboy 10/Jun/00 Lead
Strong Steve 12/Mar/00 Lead G/U
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
tlr ??/2000 2nd
with Adrian
dan gibson ??/2000 -
Jon Read ?/Aug/99 Lead O/S
NeilGriffiths 20/Jun/99 Lead O/S
with Simon Frost
frost ?/Jun/99 2nd
with N Griffiths
stp 06/Apr/98 Lead
Hidden 04/Oct/97 Lead
rob.grafton 05/May/96 2nd
with Paul McCann, Bruce
Hidden 20/Apr/96 Lead O/S
ste_d 17/Jun/94 Lead O/S
with mik
nokishatov 01/May/94 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/May/94 Lead O/S
crossleysm ??/1994 Lead


Rich Kirby 10/Oct/93 Lead
Hidden 14/Aug/93 2nd
John Marsland 13/Mar/93 TR
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
clark alston ?/Aug/92 Lead O/S
with Dick Hanson
Roget 21/Jul/91 Lead O/S
with jim, jon
dominic lee 11/Jul/89 Lead O/S
with Dad
Hidden 29/Dec/88 Lead
Hidden 22/Aug/85 2nd
Dave Musgrove 21/Jul/83 AltLd
with Kim Greenald
Hidden 24/May/81 2nd
duncan ?/Nov/80 Lead O/S
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 46
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 37
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set