16m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the right-hand edge of the slab then reach the hanging groove by a traverse from the right. Enter it by a puzzling layback sequence then bung in some gear and sprint to safety. The hardest of the old Stanage Extremes! © Rockfax

FA. Pat Fearneough 1961-63

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, Stanage E2 Challenge (1989 Guide)

Feedback

UserDateNotes
GeorgiePorgie1 10 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Agreed with the long reach to enter the groove and you can't cheat your way around it either! Right hand jam as far left as possible before the reach helps! My partner complained about the jams being tough to establish, but I thought they were pretty solid. Perhaps is down to hand size, as it usually is.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Agreed with the long reach to enter the groove and you can't cheat your way around it either! Right hand jam as far left as possible before the reach helps! My partner complained about the jams being tough to establish, but I thought they were pretty solid. Perhaps is down to hand size, as it usually is.
NuclearNev 29 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The crux starting move from the break is manicly reachy. Im 5'9" and could only reach the lower part of the layback hold (which i subsequently let go of when i fell off).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The crux starting move from the break is manicly reachy. Im 5'9" and could only reach the lower part of the layback hold (which i subsequently let go of when i fell off).
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 23 Sep Lead O/S
Hidden 8 Aug Lead RP
climberchristy 8 Aug 2nd rpt 2nd after Lynn's successful lead today.
with LMS
2nd after Lynn's successful lead today.
with LMS
climberchristy 3 Aug Lead rpt Led partly on Lynn's gear after she couldn't do crux.
with LMS
Led partly on Lynn's gear after she couldn't do crux.
with LMS
Hidden 3 Aug Lead dnf
Hidden 21 Jul Lead dnf
climberchristy 21 Jul Lead rpt Led on Lynn's gear after she had to bail. Enjoyed it.
with LMS
Led on Lynn's gear after she had to bail. Enjoyed it.
with LMS
Hidden 19 Jun 2nd O/S
GeorgiePorgie1 9 Jun Lead dog Hard route! Fell twice off the break (right jam and massive stretch with the left hand!). 5'5'' height doesn't help on there. Still, my first proper E2 and got up it in the end. Just sooo reachy to get to the decent part of the flared groove. Tough to place the crucial piece of gear gear once you're above so proper scary business as if you fall from there you're so decking on the green ledge. Superb moves though!
with robsway
Hard route! Fell twice off the break (right jam and massive stretch with the left hand!). 5'5'' height doesn't help on there. Still, my first proper E2 and got up it in the end. Just sooo reachy to get to the decent part of the flared groove. Tough to place the crucial piece of gear gear once you're above so proper scary business as if you fall from there you're so decking on the green ledge. Superb moves though!
with robsway
clanger ?? -
Dohnny_Jawes 28 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 28 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
Martin Bagshaw 28 Oct, 2018 2nd O/S Hard!
with Matthew Porter
Hard!
with Matthew Porter
Hidden 24 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
pie_eater_pete 1 Aug, 2018 Lead
Droyd 16 May, 2018 Lead O/S Pleased to cruise this
with phardy
Pleased to cruise this
with phardy
phardy 16 May, 2018 2nd dog Great lead for little D. Crux feels hard for the tall and u flexible but is do-able.
with Droyd
Great lead for little D. Crux feels hard for the tall and u flexible but is do-able.
with Droyd
Hidden 21 Apr, 2018 Lead G/U
Coel Hellier 4 May, 2017 Lead
patrickcd 6 Apr, 2017 2nd
richiebongo 25 Mar, 2017 Lead dog Had tried this 10 years previously but couldn't get up it so was pleased with at least making the moves. Will come back, must get stronger.
with Didymus
Had tried this 10 years previously but couldn't get up it so was pleased with at least making the moves. Will come back, must get stronger.
with Didymus
FelixJT 12 Mar, 2017 2nd
WilliamRupp 12 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S
with FelixJT
with FelixJT
mat cooper ??, 2017 Lead O/S
JulesV ??, 2017 -
Bettymolly ??, 2017 2nd O/S
littleduck 4 Dec, 2016 2nd dog
with Tony Madden
with Tony Madden
amccann 3 Oct, 2016 2nd dog
with dom94
with dom94
dom94 3 Oct, 2016 Lead G/U Fell off after messing up the layback step up. Got it next go.
with amccann
Fell off after messing up the layback step up. Got it next go.
with amccann
manwithacam 11 Sep, 2016 Lead dnf Utterly spat off. Crashing to reality. Gritstone is just hard.
with Alan
Utterly spat off. Crashing to reality. Gritstone is just hard.
with Alan
Hidden 5 Apr, 2016 2nd β
The old James turnbull 5 Apr, 2016 Lead
with simon kimber, tebs
with simon kimber, tebs
ian d f 14 Feb, 2016 Lead O/S Tough
Tough
onlyfoddington 14 Feb, 2016 2nd dog Genuinely fell off about 4 times, not because I was tired but because it was too hard - first to step across and then later to ascend the bottom of the groove.
with ian d f
Genuinely fell off about 4 times, not because I was tired but because it was too hard - first to step across and then later to ascend the bottom of the groove.
with ian d f
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 16 May, 2015 Lead G/U
with Roisin
with Roisin
dan_o_b ??, 2015 2nd dog
climberchristy 5 Oct, 2014 Lead rpt Fell off crux but then lowered and repeated it as clean ascent. A really interesting set of moves to get established in the groove and then stays hard for longer than you think after that. Hard for E2 5c!
with bencole
Fell off crux but then lowered and repeated it as clean ascent. A really interesting set of moves to get established in the groove and then stays hard for longer than you think after that. Hard for E2 5c!
with bencole
Nick1812P 13 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with Calum harvey
with Calum harvey
charvey 13 Sep, 2014 2nd dog Found it to be absolutley nails. A combiantion of jumpimg and pullling on th erope took me through the crux.
Found it to be absolutley nails. A combiantion of jumpimg and pullling on th erope took me through the crux.
lena.drapella 31 Aug, 2014 2nd dog
dannyboy83 31 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Albachoss 31 Aug, 2014 Lead dog It's full on after the traverse
It's full on after the traverse
HarryBowyer 15 Jul, 2014 Lead dnf
HarryBowyer 15 Jul, 2014 TR
soph 9 Mar, 2014 2nd
with Andy Reeve
with Andy Reeve
Dan Arkle ??, 2014 -
EmileCilliers 6 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
deacondeacon 3 Mar, 2013 Lead Mate reckons I've climbed this before but I don't remember. Went fine, great route.
Mate reckons I've climbed this before but I don't remember. Went fine, great route.
Andy Peak 1 2 Mar, 2013 Lead Fell once didnt se the good foot to the side of the arete
with H washbrook
Fell once didnt se the good foot to the side of the arete
with H washbrook
Hidden ??, 2013 -
Andy Peak 1 1 Sep, 2012 2nd
with Andrew Deckon
with Andrew Deckon
Coel Hellier 15 Jul, 2012 Lead dog
Tom Doldon 10 Jun, 2012 Lead dnf The crack is very flared
with John Doldon
The crack is very flared
with John Doldon
tom.e 20 Mar, 2012 Lead
Hidden 1 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
Palindrome ?Mar, 2012 2nd Several rests before overcoming the layback.
Several rests before overcoming the layback.
Tony Kartawick ??, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 -
mark20 19 Nov, 2011 Lead O/S
bigdrew 19 Nov, 2011 2nd O/S
with mark20
with mark20
elCapitano 3 Sep, 2011 Lead dnf
Hidden 20 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 10 May, 2011 Lead O/S quality but hard crux sequence
with rich_hw
quality but hard crux sequence
with rich_hw
Jim Slater 10 May, 2011 2nd dog
with Ahab
with Ahab
highlux 6 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S Desperate! Very nearly fell off.
Desperate! Very nearly fell off.
uphillnow ??, 2011 -
mwatson ??, 2011 -
john lynch 16 Nov, 2010 2nd O/S nails.
with joe grondowski, Lewis Andrew
nails.
with joe grondowski, Lewis Andrew
Si dH 16 Oct, 2010 Lead dog Did crux, got to first decent hold in the crack, got a nut in which was ok but then my head went, not enough recent mileage and I got disco leg in a major way. Faffed an unnecessary cam in just above the nut but then that blocked my hold so I couldnt do anything other than grab it as my other hand pumped out. Stupidity. Annoying as it was only about HVS from then onwards! :oS Good route. Didnt think the crux was too bad.
with Neil Furniss
Did crux, got to first decent hold in the crack, got a nut in which was ok but then my head went, not enough recent mileage and I got disco leg in a major way. Faffed an unnecessary cam in just above the nut but then that blocked my hold so I couldnt do anything other than grab it as my other hand pumped out. Stupidity. Annoying as it was only about HVS from then onwards! :oS Good route. Didnt think the crux was too bad.
with Neil Furniss
thomasadixon 2 Oct, 2010 Lead RP Nails! Had to have a bunch of goes to work out the sequence, chuffed to get it in the end.
with mwatson
Nails! Had to have a bunch of goes to work out the sequence, chuffed to get it in the end.
with mwatson
Hidden 12 Sep, 2010 2nd dog
Lev 12 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
with Emma
with Emma
geddicakes 4 Sep, 2010 Lead RP Fell to the fern ledge a few times. claiming it as worked
Fell to the fern ledge a few times. claiming it as worked
Hidden 4 Sep, 2010 2nd
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 4 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
Coel Hellier ?May, 2010 Lead dog
Seymore Butt ??, 2010 -
Hidden ?Dec, 2009 -
Boy ?Sep, 2009 -
with Nige Kershaw
with Nige Kershaw
Alex@home ?Sep, 2009 2nd O/S
with The Doctor
with The Doctor
HimTiggins 21 Jun, 2009 2nd dog Really technical, and pumpy. Too much so for me!
Really technical, and pumpy. Too much so for me!
Hidden 17 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
Dan 85 6 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 Apr, 2009 2nd
pigeonslipper ??, 2009 Lead
steveb2006 17 Aug, 2008 Lead Done this once before and have since failed on it so good to do it well
with Roland Smith
Done this once before and have since failed on it so good to do it well
with Roland Smith
SR1970 ?Aug, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 13 Jul, 2008 TR dog
Hidden 17 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
andy gravestock 3 Apr, 2008 Lead O/S felt more like an e3 than a e2 but really good climbing never the less.
with tall tom
felt more like an e3 than a e2 but really good climbing never the less.
with tall tom
Hidden 9 Feb, 2008 Lead rpt
craig d ??, 2008 -
The old James turnbull ??, 2008 Lead
Jim Walton ??, 2008 -
alaan 4 Nov, 2007 Lead dnf Couldn't get the thought of the ledge out of my mind so slumped onto gear and went up the VS to the left instead.
with Grant
Couldn't get the thought of the ledge out of my mind so slumped onto gear and went up the VS to the left instead.
with Grant
nacnud 20 Oct, 2007 Lead dog Pumped out finding gear after making the move out of the break.
Pumped out finding gear after making the move out of the break.
dan gibson 2 Mar, 2007 Lead O/S
with jon redshaw
with jon redshaw
JPGR 2 Mar, 2007 2nd
with Daniel
with Daniel
Alex Mason 28 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S ok it wasnt actually an onsight, but the first time up i had no chalk and the holds are slopey. got some chalk and found it safe and interesting 5c
ok it wasnt actually an onsight, but the first time up i had no chalk and the holds are slopey. got some chalk and found it safe and interesting 5c
Hidden ?Dec, 2005 Lead
richgac 2 Oct, 2005 Lead O/S Tricky. Nearly pumped out
with Nick
Tricky. Nearly pumped out
with Nick
goi.ashmore 28 Aug, 2005 Solo RP
with Roy Thomas
with Roy Thomas
Hidden 30 Mar, 2005 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 -
chris sm ?Aug, 2004 2nd
with Pippa Froggatt
with Pippa Froggatt
Daniel Armitage 5 Jul, 2004 Lead O/S
Mark Collins 22 May, 2004 Lead O/S
with Andrew Eakins
with Andrew Eakins
Hidden ??, 2004 Lead RP
sadams 5 Oct, 2003 Lead O/S
with Tom Briggs
with Tom Briggs
Mark Stevenson 14 Jun, 2003 2nd O/S
Chris Reid 13 Jul, 2002 Lead O/S
Ben Bransby 19 Apr, 2002 Solo
Dave Musgrove Jnr 24 Mar, 2002 Lead O/S
with Viv
with Viv
Hidden ??, 2002 -
Neil McA 9 Jun, 2001 2nd dog
with Paul Jenkinson
with Paul Jenkinson
Ropeboy 10 Jun, 2000 Lead
Strong Steve 12 Mar, 2000 Lead G/U
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead
tlr ??, 2000 2nd
with Adrian
with Adrian
dan gibson ??, 2000 -
Jon Read ?Aug, 1999 Lead O/S
NeilGriffiths 20 Jun, 1999 Lead O/S
with frost
with frost
frost ?Jun, 1999 2nd
with N Griffiths
with N Griffiths
stp 6 Apr, 1998 Lead
Hidden 4 Oct, 1997 Lead
rob.grafton 5 May, 1996 2nd
with Paul McCann, Bruce
with Paul McCann, Bruce
Hidden 20 Apr, 1996 Lead O/S
ste_d 17 Jun, 1994 Lead O/S
Mike_d78 1 May, 1994 2nd O/S
with ste_d
with ste_d
Hidden ?May, 1994 Lead O/S
crossleysm ??, 1994 Lead c.94
c.94
Hidden 10 Oct, 1993 Lead
Hidden 14 Aug, 1993 2nd
John Marsland 13 Mar, 1993 TR
Hidden ??, 1993 Lead
Hidden ?Aug, 1992 Lead O/S
Neil McA 9 Sep, 1991 Lead dnf Failed on this again!
with Beak 2
Failed on this again!
with Beak 2
Roget 21 Jul, 1991 Lead O/S
with jim, jon
with jim, jon
dominic lee 11 Jul, 1989 Lead O/S
with Dad
with Dad
steveb2006 29 Dec, 1988 Lead Led quickly as a thick wet mist sweeps in wetting the rock. At the top I cant see the! ground. No more climbing today. 1988 lead total now at a frustrating 199 with only 2 days left!!
with Nigel Smart
Led quickly as a thick wet mist sweeps in wetting the rock. At the top I cant see the! ground. No more climbing today. 1988 lead total now at a frustrating 199 with only 2 days left!!
with Nigel Smart
Hidden 22 Aug, 1985 2nd
Neil McA 30 Jul, 1985 Lead dnf Desperate! Failed on this one.
with Tom Lewis, Pete Gronbech
Desperate! Failed on this one.
with Tom Lewis, Pete Gronbech
Dave Musgrove 21 Jul, 1983 AltLd
with Kim Greenald
with Kim Greenald
Hidden 24 May, 1981 2nd
duncan ?Nov, 1980 Lead O/S
Rick51 8 Jun, 1980 Lead
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 50
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 50
Votes cast 41
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Repeated
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set