UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

24m.

Rockfax Description
A full-on jamming pitch. The central section is tough, although bridging helps, and the pull on to the ledge is tricky. Head up the corner on the right and then traverse awkwardly right to a ledge above Tower Face. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1950-51.

Ticklists

Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Eastern Grit Jamming , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Top 50 Peak Cracks , Brown & Whillans Stanage , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Plantation , Stan , On Peak Rock , Severe Stanage , Proper Cracks UK , Stanage HVS Challenge , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Post-lockdown Peak jamming hoedown , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E1 , Eastern Grit Crack School - Part 2 , Hardest HVSs in the Peak , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Peak grit , *** HVS on Peak Gritstone , Misery Mondays

Feedback

User Date Notes
Pete McGlynn 6 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Finished on right side of arĂȘte.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Finished on right side of arĂȘte.
Fraser kid 18 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Some great shapes, I was horizontal at one point!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Some great shapes, I was horizontal at one point!
Mark Stevenson 30 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Respect to Mr Brown - another awesome route from the 1950s. Had a bit of a fight with it and it felt more like 5b to me and my jamming isn't normally that bad. A good old fashioned route to sort the men from the boys. Worth doing (once!).
Show beta
βeta: Respect to Mr Brown - another awesome route from the 1950s. Had a bit of a fight with it and it felt more like 5b to me and my jamming isn't normally that bad. A good old fashioned route to sort the men from the boys. Worth doing (once!).
bone 2 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: What a bitch of a route! Awkward bridging as it forces you to really spread 'em, difficult to jam & not obvious what technique to muse on the main crack. Tried jamming, bridging & laybacking - mostly in vain. Definitely the toughest 5a I've done & think technically it should be 5b, certainly if compared to Goliath Groove.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: What a bitch of a route! Awkward bridging as it forces you to really spread 'em, difficult to jam & not obvious what technique to muse on the main crack. Tried jamming, bridging & laybacking - mostly in vain. Definitely the toughest 5a I've done & think technically it should be 5b, certainly if compared to Goliath Groove.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 56
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 56
Votes cast 49
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Neb Buttress Direct

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Bamford Edge)

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