3519m. Classic ridge traverse, usually East to West. In Rebuffat's list of 100 finest climbs in the Mont Blanc Massif. Moves of IV sustained. Climbed from the Trient or Saliena huts. Guidebook time is 10hr for the round trip from the Trient Hut, 12hr is more usual. 14-15hr from the Saleina Hut. Can be escaped at 3/4 length.

Ticklists

Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hannah V 7 Aug, 2018 - Climbed Aiguille Sans Nom south ridge and traversed as far as Col Copt. Approx 4 abseils down to the glacier. 8.5 hours return trip from Cabane d'Orny.
with Tim Neill
Climbed Aiguille Sans Nom south ridge and traversed as far as Col Copt. Approx 4 abseils down to the glacier. 8.5 hours return trip from Cabane d'Orny.
with Tim Neill
nbryant 1 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S A big day out. Especially if you take a wrong turn and have to climb a filthy loose couloir to regain the ridge. Didn't get back to Le Tour till midnight.
with Patric Lundell
A big day out. Especially if you take a wrong turn and have to climb a filthy loose couloir to regain the ridge. Didn't get back to Le Tour till midnight.
with Patric Lundell
Ayyoub 27 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
philmitch 27 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Half traverse
with Ayyoub
Half traverse
with Ayyoub
Hidden 18 Jul, 2016 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2016 -
benclimbing 2 Sep, 2015 AltLd dnf Unfortunately, DNF. Top tip for the walk in - don't read AC guidebook, take the Breya chairlift and walk in via Orny hut to Trient hut. (Trient is uber expensive!) First half of route went well - initial pitch looks very steep but is fine. Didn't do Aiguille Javelle as were afraid of losing time. Got to Col Copt which was a dead end. Couldn't traverse gully as it was awful black ice with no runners. We didn't know about the 6a pitch to avoid this so ended up abseiling the Copt Couloir. We didn't find a line of continuous abseil stations in the couloir and we only had one 50m rope so it did get a bit stressful! Fortunately a final ab station was found on the other side so we crossed the couloir to make the final rap over the massive shrund to safety!!
with graham boistelle
Unfortunately, DNF. Top tip for the walk in - don't read AC guidebook, take the Breya chairlift and walk in via Orny hut to Trient hut. (Trient is uber expensive!) First half of route went well - initial pitch looks very steep but is fine. Didn't do Aiguille Javelle as were afraid of losing time. Got to Col Copt which was a dead end. Couldn't traverse gully as it was awful black ice with no runners. We didn't know about the 6a pitch to avoid this so ended up abseiling the Copt Couloir. We didn't find a line of continuous abseil stations in the couloir and we only had one 50m rope so it did get a bit stressful! Fortunately a final ab station was found on the other side so we crossed the couloir to make the final rap over the massive shrund to safety!!
with graham boistelle
Hidden 21 Aug, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 21 Aug, 2014 AltLd
Ken Applegate 6 Aug, 2014 AltLd Not to be underestimated! Very good value though, although the abseils at the end are a bit grim, particularly with teams above.
with Steve
Not to be underestimated! Very good value though, although the abseils at the end are a bit grim, particularly with teams above.
with Steve
Hidden ?Aug, 2014 -
Hidden ??, 2013 -
jcw ??, 2013 -
Tim Sparrow ?Aug, 2012 - East to west. Ascent from Col Copt currently only possible via steep undercut corner crack at 6a. Should have taken rock boots. 20 ft and 3 pts aid later ....... Traversing round to Col Copt not an option due to lack of snow and recent rockfall.
with Geoff Thomas
East to west. Ascent from Col Copt currently only possible via steep undercut corner crack at 6a. Should have taken rock boots. 20 ft and 3 pts aid later ....... Traversing round to Col Copt not an option due to lack of snow and recent rockfall.
with Geoff Thomas
noskki 9 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
mathquirk ?Jul, 2010 AltLd
with Petter Zachrisson
with Petter Zachrisson
Bezz ??, 2007 2nd
alpinist63 26 Jul, 1992 -
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Voting
High D-
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High AD+
Mid AD+
Low AD+
High AD
Mid AD
Low AD
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 6
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set