1000m, 35 pitches. Regarded as one of the longest, hardest and finest ridge climbs in the whole of the Alps. The route links five huge consecutive towers along the ridge up to the final summit tower and needle.
Message from mBob8, 24/08/2018:
Direct approach to Bivi hut via couloir has seen a massive amount of recent rockfall (thankfully off the back of 1st and 2nd tower so not affecting rock route) but has made the approach couloir very dangerous, we recceed it without bags and turned back before half way, too loose and risky. Especially to repeat with bags on and then descend after a long days climbing - not recommended. Longer but safer approach via main hut is recommended.

Ticklists: 10 Multi-pitch Routes Worth Travelling For, Euro Alpine Rock.


ClimberDateStyle
murray 17/Sep/18 AltLd O/S

The annual alpine rock mega-route with Dan! We spent 14 hours on this one, doing the final few pitches in the dark. Overall it didn't feel particularly serious since there are tons of bivvy spots and abseil escape options, but it is a very long route. There was a lot more horizontal climbing than expected, and with the route weaving around so much we struggled to simul any of it on our double ropes. Some standout memories include crying my way up the offwidth on tower 2, and padding up the final 6a pitch in the dark, in an outrageous position on the ridge crest with a monster runout.

with Dan
DHHZ 17/Sep/18 AltLd
with Murray
alexm198 15/Sep/18 AltLd dnf

Late start on Saturday intending to climb over two days. 8h to the top of the second tower. Enjoyable bivi under a massive rock, woke up to brewing storms and rain. Bailed. Climbing was fun though, apart from the vomit inducing wide crack on the second tower...

with Alasdair Blackshaw
HansStuttgart ?/Sep/18 AltLd

Great route. Nice hit and run alpinism in a short trip from home. We chose a 2-day approach to avoid possible crowds. This worked out well, alone on the mountain and a great bivy spot (below tower 4). Amazing climbing throughout. I had the honour of leading the off-width and the runout pitch....

Just Will 15/Aug/18 AltLd dnf

Slowed down a little too much by the rain - the first tower was completely soaking. Didn't quite manage to make up enough time on the second tower when things had dried up a little and rapped off before the third tower.

with Richard Ive
mBob8 15/Aug/18 -

DO NOT approach 'direct' to bivi from the Voralp valley. Huge rockfall from the towers (not affecting climbing route) has filled the approach couloir and is very active with rockfall. Longer but safer approach via Salbithutte is recommended.

Hidden 03/Aug/18 AltLd
K Mckay 10/Jul/18 AltLd dnf

Bailed down the 2nd tower. Rain clouds rolling in and time against us. Some fantastic climbing. I will be back for sure!

K Farrell 10/Jul/18 AltLd dnf
with K Mckay
Jo Stadden 01/Aug/17 AltLd dnf

Unfortunately had to bail at pitch 26 due to a huge thunderstorm, so close! Incredible climbing.

with Chris Barr
Chris_barr 01/Aug/17 Lead dnf

Amazing experience. Had to escape at the notch between tower 4 and 5 due to electrical storm. Exciting. Amazing experienced followed by fireworks and food at the refuge as it was Swiss day, 1st August.

with Jo
Paul Collins 29/Jul/17 AltLd

An amazing rock ridge on perfect rock the whole way! We started from the car at 3am, base of the route by 6am after some sketchy gully scrambling! 9 hours for the route. Route finding is pretty easy and the bivvi hut at the base looks like the place to spend the night before (literally 5 minutes from the base). The descent is pretty snowy and a loose in places, particularly tricky in runners!

with Rhys
davkeo 28/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Loooong day. 15hrs for the ridge, so not fast. 3hrs for the unpleasant descent which was in wet snow & the dark. 18hrs (bivi) hut to hut. Lots of 3 star pitches. I led off & then we alternated, moved together & did blocks thereafter. Excellent.

with Misha
Misha 28/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Oufff... long! Great rock for the most part. A lot of HVS and E1 ground. Dave led the first pitch, which took me a while to second with cold hands - probably E2 5c if you can feel your hands! Thought the 6a+ pitch was a downright nasty albeit short lived E3 5c, whereas the 6b pitch proved to be easier, E2 5c and also short lived (I led both). Stayed at the comfy bivvy hut. 15 hours up - the slow end of fast or the fast end of slow, or just slow? Climbing with one rope would have sped things up, especially as we could have moved together more (awkward with two ropes). You do need a second rope for one of the abs though and for the pendulum pitch as it really weaves around after the pendulum. I freed everything apart from the bolt ladder steep slab (would probably go at sustained trad hard 6a or 6b, feasible but not onsightable for me and we didn’t have time to faff around). Got to the top in time for a beautiful sunset. Another 3 hours back down to the bivvy on chossy rock followed by snow (wet feet in approach shoes) and then grassy slopes until we rejoined the path. Leisurely walk out the next day and went on to do the Cassin on Piz Badile a couple of days later. Good way to do it, just bring enough food, water and gas (can fill up at the proper hut).

with davkeo
Little AndyH 16/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
joe.91 16/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

After driving straight from the UK we got to the car park and immediately headed up to the bivi hut. 14 hours in the route due to a queue on the abseils which took its toll. By tower 5 just wanted to get up the thing! Rather sustained and very very long!

monsteratt 17/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Done! Pretty long day (10.5 hours for the up). Tiredness getting in the way of enjoyment for a good chunk. Great rock and some incredible pitches.

with Andy T
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides 14/Sep/16 Lead

Amazing route. 12.5 hrs from the bivvy hut

with Chris Hague
ferdia 26/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Andy Moles 26/Aug/16 AltLd

Amazing, tons of quality climbing in spectacular positions. Possible highlight balancing up the knife-edge crest on about pitch 33. Took about 12 hours, including a few faffs with stuck ropes.

with ferdia
robertmichaellovell 22/Aug/16 AltLd

Yeah this was class, a big day out

with tomdude
tomdude 22/Aug/16 AltLd

Pretty much has to be the best route I've ever climbed! About 13 hours or so.

dan gibson 18/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Katerina petkova
Lakesben 15/Aug/16 AltLd

An incredible route and not to be underestimated. We began climbing at 5am and reached the top at 8pm (in an electrical storm). Hardest pitches are Tower 1 P1, Tower 2 P2 and Tower 3 P2. The variety of the climbing is magnificent, crack, off width, slab, aid all involved and the majority of it about E1.

with The Plough
Hidden 29/Jul/16 AltLd
aliem 03/Sep/15 -

Spectacular route. Had a planned bivi on the second tower to make the most of this incredible place. Looking forward to getting back

Hidden 31/Aug/15 AltLd
Hidden 31/Aug/15 AltLd
Hidden 29/Aug/15 AltLd
Hidden 26/Aug/15 AltLd dnf
rlade ?/Aug/15 -

Excellent route, climbed in 10hrs. Climbing up to e2, one pendulum traverse, a few abs, route finding easy, take an average rack, plenty of water remember u are on a ridge! Climbed with Stu Lancaster

with Stu
soph 28/Jul/15 AltLd
with Blair Fyffe
robpartridge 12/Jul/15 AltLd dnf
with Chris Igel
Em66 ?/Jul/15 -
malx ?/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

really fun, took about 8 hours

Tim Sparrow ??/2015 -

Been on it twice. Stormed off at 2nd towerin '94. Got to 4th in 2006. Having led every pitch I was blasted. Pen pushing soft hands were sanded to a fine finish, and then oozed plasma for 2 days! I will complete this route in this life or the next!

Tom Livingstone 18/Oct/14 AltLd

8 hours 30 mins base to summit. Top route.

with Mike Thomas, sprucemoose
Hidden 18/Oct/14 AltLd
The old James turnbull ?/Jul/14 AltLd
with rich howells
Chad123 26/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Classic route with plenty of interest all the way, requires lots of different techniques, such as run out slabby arete laybacking, chimneying, face climbing, even a nasty off width, though laybacking being the main flavour for 35 pitches. We opted for the leisurely 2 day option which works well as no rush and plenty of bivvy spots to choose from (though it did rain on us overnight!) Downside is the heavier pack which felt very heavy on first pitch which is a stiff warm up! All free except the A0 bolt ladder, though the 6a+ and 6b pitches are far easier than the sustained old school 5+ and 6a pitches on Tower 2, watch out for them! Being solid at HVS/E1 recommended, lots of pitches at this grade. Worth it's classic status and the hut is a lovely place to stay for a few days too....

with sgl
sgl 25/Jul/13 AltLd

2 days

with chad
noskki 18/Aug/12 AltLd

Good wakeup call in the first pitch (dodged the start into the crack). Good idea to suss it out the night before as it is also difficult to find in the early morning darkness. By default some aid climbing (A0) involved in one of the pitches higher up. What a mad rush of endless variations of climbing on granite.

edek_w 17/Aug/12 -

We did it in one and half day. Possible to do in one, but it demands pushing all the time. A lot of bivy spots! If you're not in hurry - take a sleeping bag and enjoy incredible views. Stunning route!!! One of the best.

with Blazej
david morse 02/Jul/11 AltLd

A stunning ridge line on perfect granite, the best route I have done in Europe to date. Very sustained climbing with alot of pitches at HVS-E1. Many excellent bivy spots. 14 hours on ridge, 3 hours from summit down East ridge and back to the Bivy hut. Heavily recommend this route!

with lole, todd
Hidden 02/Jul/11 -
James W 25/Jun/11 2nd
with Mark Thomas
Mattyk 22/Aug/10 AltLd

Woke up at 4:30 a.m but still ended up behind a team on the 1st pitch. stuck behind them and didn't pass until after 4th tower when they backed off. Pulled on a couple of pieces as wanted to go fast and couldn't see very much in the dark. Ali did pretty much all the leading as we were trying to move really fast. Nearly thwarted night before as we didn't carry any water around to bivvy spot. Had to boil up snow which was the dirtiest water i've ever drank but glad of it. What a route - massive, felt committing and with such a time constraint. So pleased to get to the end of it and back to the car for 9:30 after 17 hours on the go. What a route! 12 and a half hours on the route 32 pitches. couldn't have scraped much off that really! Thanks Ali for dragging my sorry ass up such a brilliant route!

with ali k
Hidden 22/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/10 AltLd dnf
brockers 20/Aug/10 AltLd
basvdploeg 26/Jun/10 AltLd
Andrew Nelson ??/2010 -

Vic and Andy T

Hidden ?/Aug/08 -
Hidden ?/Jul/08 AltLd
alpinist63 22/Jun/08 AltLd rpt
Hidden ??/2007 AltLd
Nick Wallis ??/2005 AltLd O/S
with Jon Bracey
tjekel ??/2004 -

Bailed after 18 pitches due to sunstroke ;-(.

Neil McA 18/Aug/93 AltLd O/S

Awesome! 9.5 hours bivi hut to summit. Did Iron Man on the second tower the previous day. Brilliant first couple of days on the salbit.

with Paul Jenkinson
alpinist63 24/Aug/90 -
bobelvedere 31/Jul/80 AltLd
with Niels Ole Bernsen
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Voting
High ED2
Mid ED2
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High ED1
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High TD+
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Votes cast 9
Votes cast 10
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
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Not Set