UKC Logbook - Extreme Alpine Rock

Contributed by BStar Mar/20 - This public ticklist has been seen 2,547 times

The 100 Greatest Alpine Rock Climbs - Walter Pause, Jürgen Winkler.

Translated from the original German 'Im Extremen Fels' in 1979. It was published in the UK to follow the format of Classic and Hard Rock. There's a bit of work still to do in adding the rest of the routes, I'll add them over the next coming months.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Extreme-Alpine-Rock-Walter-Pause/dp/0246110562

East Face of Catinaccio © Heike — East Face of Catinaccio
© Heike, Jul 2010

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	User	Percentage	Latest Log
1st	alpinist63	58%	25 Jul, 2020
2nd	tjekel	17%	2007
3rd	Hidden	9%	21 Aug
3rd	Hidden	9%	2020
4th	Hidden	8%	19 Aug
5th	alexm198	7%	2 Oct, 2021
6th	ian bryant	6%	2017
6th	Gwinn512	6%	24 Jun
6th	Michael	6%	4 Jul
6th	James Thacker	6%	2020

Map of routes in this ticklist

Least routes Most routes

Wishlist Routes

Logged Routes

Darken logged

Cluster markers

Distribution of grades

Sport

Alpine

Trad

Top 12 photos of this ticklist

Felicity abbing off the summit block of the Salbitchijen after a long day climbing the west ridge

On the stunning mixed ramp that leads to the upper icefield on the Croz, Grandes Jorasses

On the penultimate ice pitch of the Croz spur, Grandes Jorasses

Nearing the finish of the Salbit Westgrat

Breaking through the cornice and into the sun

Valentine Fabre on the outstanding Arete du Diable, Mont Blanc du Tacul

Two alpinists descending from Pointe Whymper.

A close encounter with a Marmot after bailing from the Big Micheluzzi.....Caption Comp?

Add	Climb name	Grade	Ticks?	Height		Crag name
	FRANCE
1	Pilier Central (Devies-Gervasutti Route)	ED1 ***	4	1,000m		L'Ailefroide
2	North Face - George Russenberger	ED1	-	?		Pic Sans Nom
3	Pilier Sud Barre des Ecrins	TD 5c ***	31	1,100m		Barre des Écrins
4	North-West Face	V	-	?		L'Olan
5	Meije Grand Pic, directe face sud	TD ***	24	800m	• 26	La Meije
6	Aiguille Noire de Peutérey	TD+ 4 ***	44	1,100m	• 42	Mont Blanc
7	Ratti-Vittali	TD+	5	?		Mont Blanc
8	Central Pillar of Freney	ED1 5c ***	20	?		Mont Blanc
9	Bonatti-Ghigo	ED1 7a ***	25	470m		Mont Blanc du Tacul
10	Arête du Diable Traverse	D+ 5c ***	76	600m		Mont Blanc du Tacul
11	Walker Spur	ED1 6a ***	70	1,200m		Grandes Jorasses
12	Croz Spur	ED1 ***	14	1,000m		Grandes Jorasses
13	Contamine Route	TD 6a **	51	?		Petites Jorasses
14	Brown-Whillans (British Route)	TD+ 6c ***	37	350m		Aiguille de...
15	Tournier Spur Direct	ED1 5c ***	15	?		Les Droites
	SWITZERLAND
16	Southeast Ridge	TD-	-	?		Bietschhorn
17	Sudgrat	TD- 5c ***	16	?		Stockhorn...
18	North Face Direct	ED2	-	?		Wetterhorn
19	Northeast Face (Lüthy-Steuri) (Classic Route)	5c ***	25	500m	• 18	Engelhörner
20	Inwyler-Bielmeier	6a+ ***	3	450m	• 14	Tällistock -...
21	S-Pfeiler	V+	1	?		Graue Wand
22	West Ridge	ED1 6b ***	90	1,000m	• 35	Salbitschijen
23	Direkte Nordwand	6a+	4	450m	• 11	Bockmattli
24	South Face Diedre - Zweiter Kreuzberg	VI-	1	300m	• 12	Kreuzberg
	HOLD FOR 26
25	Alte Süd	6b+	1	?	• 13	Churfirsten
26	Cassin	TD **	215	?		Piz Badile
27	Northwest Pillar (Gaiser-Lehmann)	TD ***	7	1,100m	• 29	Pizzo Cengalo
28	Flatiron	TD- ***	30	350m	• 12	Pizzi Gemelli
29	North West Ridge "Fuorikante"	TD- *	3	600m		Sciora Dafora
	HOLD FOR 32
	HOLD FOR 33
	HOLD FOR 34
30	Direkte Sudwand	VI	3	310m	• 9	Rote Flüh
	GERMANY
31	Gonda	VI+	1	270m	• 9	Oberreintaldom
32	Nordwand: Schober-Münch	VI+	2	300m	• 9	Unterer...
	AUSTRIA
33	Southwest Face	VI-	1	250m	• 8	Scharnitzspitze
34	Rainer/Aschenbrenner	VII ***	4	400m	• 10	Schüsselkarspitze
35	Peters/Haringer	VI	4	400m	• 11	Schüsselkarspitze
	SAVE FOR 41
36	North-East Diedre Direct	VI-	1	?		Kleiner Lafatscher
37	Schmid/Krebs	VI	-	850m	• 35	Laliderer Spitze
38	Rebitsch/Spiegl	VII	-	700m	• 27	Laliderer Spitze
	HOLD FOR 45
39	Fußsteinkante	V-	4	450m	• 12	Fusstein
	HOLD FOR 47
	HOLD FOR 48
40	Dülfer	VI+	6	550m	• 21	Totenkirchl
41	Göttner	VI+	4	275m	• 9	Karlspitze
42	Dülfer	VI+	11	500m	• 16	Fleischbank
43	Schule-Diem/Haslacher-Behringer	VII- **	5	220m	• 13	Predigtstuhl
44	Lucke/Strobl-Riss	VII-	3	210m	• 7	Bauernpredigstuhl
45	Buhl	VI+	1	400m	• 15	Maukspitze
	GERMANY
	HOLD FOR 56
	HOLD FOR 57
	HOLD FOR 58
46	Kleiner Trichter	VII ***	3	450m	• 16	Göll
	ITALY
47	Via della Concordia	VI+ ***	1	420m	• 10	Brenta Group
48	Pilier dei Francesi (Frenchmen's Pillar)	ED1 ***	1	1,000m	• 25	Crozzon di Brenta
49	South-West corner (Fehrmann route)	V ***	16	350m	• 13	Brenta Group
50	North-East Face "Detassis"	VI-	-	550m	• 17	Brenta Group
51	West Face (Buhlweg)	ED2	1	?	• 15	Roda di Vaèl
52	Steger	VI- ***	42	730m	• 18	Cima Catinaccio...
53	Big Micheluzzi	VI ***	90	350m	• 12	Piz Ciavazes
54	South-West Face (Solda)	VII *	2	550m	• 21	Marmolada
55	Gogna, via del Cinquantenario Fisi	VII- ***	2	800m	• 25	Marmolada
	HOLD FOR 68
56	Buhlriss	TD- ***	4	450m	• 10	Cima Canali
	HOLD FOR 70
57	Spigolo Nord	TD ***	2	1,600m		Monte Agner
58	South Face Direct (Tissi)	VI- ***	22	540m	• 15	Civetta Group
59	South Face (Carlesso)	VIII- ***	1	700m	• 24	Civetta Group
60	North-West Face (Livanos Diedre)	VII	-	800m	• 16	Civetta Group
61	North-West Face (Solleder)	V+ ***	-	1,300m	• 31	Civetta Group
62	North-West Face (Andrich)	VI	-	650m	• 21	Civetta Group
63	North-West Face	VII+	1	500m	• 9	Civetta Group
64	North Face	V+ ***	-	850m	• 18	Pelmo Group
65	Via Costantini-Ghedina	VI- **	56	500m	• 18	Tofana di Rozes
66	Lacedelli	VIII- ***	13	530m	• 15	Cima Scotoni
67	Spigolo Jori/Fiames Arete	V+ ***	65	400m	• 15	Punta Fiames
	HOLD FOR 82
	HOLD FOR 83
68	Swiss Route (Swiss - Italian)	IX- ***	1	500m	• 17	Tre Cime
69	Cassin	VIII ***	12	450m	• 12	Tre Cime
70	Hasse-Brandler	VIII+ ***	57	?		Tre Cime
71	Spigolo Giallo (Yellow Edge)	VI+ ***	103	350m	• 13	Tre Cime
	HOLD FOR 87
	HOLD FOR 88
	AUSTRIA
72	Direct North Face	V+ **	2	600m		Laserz
	ITALY
	HOLD FOR 90
	YUGOSLAVIA (NOW SLOVENIA)
73	Direktna Smer (Direct Route)	V+	-	900m		Špik
	AUSTRIA
74	Schinkoverschneidung	VII- ***	1	850m	• 22	Dachstein
75	Maixkante	VI ***	2	700m	• 22	Dachstein
76	SO-Pfeiler direkt	VII **	2	300m	• 9	Dachstein
77	Direct north face	VII ***	1	350m	• 11	Gosaukamm
78	Ostkante	VII- ***	4	450m	• 11	Gosaukamm
79	Rosskuppenkante	VI **	1	600m	• 17	Gesause
80	Nordwand klassisch	VI+ ***	1	400m	• 13	Gesause
	STANDENWAND - SOUTH-EAST FACE WAIT FOR DB
81	Westkante (Schartenspitze)	VII	2	250m	• 8	Hochschwab
		142 stars	1,373	39,175m	966