UKC

Contributed by BStar Mar/20 - This public ticklist has been seen 3,003 times

The 100 Greatest Alpine Rock Climbs - Walter Pause, Jürgen Winkler.

Translated from the original German 'Im Extremen Fels' in 1979. It was published in the UK to follow the format of Classic and Hard Rock. There's a bit of work still to do in adding the rest of the routes, I'll add them over the next coming months.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Extreme-Alpine-Rock-Walter-Pause/dp/0246110562

Pizzi Gemelli area  © Lawrie Brand
Pizzi Gemelli area
© Lawrie Brand, Aug 2010

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User Percentage Latest Log
1st alpinist63 58% 25 Jul, 2020
2nd tjekel 17% 2007
3rd Hidden 9% 21 Aug, 2023
3rd Hidden 9% 2020
4th QuentinSu 8% 19 Aug, 2023
5th alexm198 7% 2 Oct, 2021
6th ian bryant 6% Aug, 2017
6th Gwinn512 6% 24 Jun, 2023
6th Michael 6% 4 Jul, 2023
6th James Thacker 6% 2020

Map of routes in this ticklist

Least routes Most routes

Distribution of grades

Top 12 photos of this ticklist

Felicity abbing off the summit block of the Salbitchijen after a long day climbing the west ridge

West Ridge
Felicity abbing off the summit block of the Salbitchijen after a long day climbing the west ridge
© Lankcroft

On the stunning mixed ramp that leads to the upper icefield on the Croz, Grandes Jorasses

Croz Spur
On the stunning mixed ramp that leads to the upper icefield on the Croz, Grandes Jorasses
© Jon Griffith

Clouds rolling over the Arête du Diable

Arête du Diable Traverse
Clouds rolling over the Arête du Diable
© Hamish Frost

Cassin Route - Piz Badile!

Cassin
Cassin Route - Piz Badile!
© Kevin Avery

On the penultimate ice pitch of the Croz spur, Grandes Jorasses

Croz Spur
On the penultimate ice pitch of the Croz spur, Grandes Jorasses
© Jon Griffith

Nearing the finish of the Salbit Westgrat

West Ridge
Nearing the finish of the Salbit Westgrat
© fibonacci moose

Breaking through the cornice and into the sun

Walker Spur
Breaking through the cornice and into the sun
© Mr Lopez

Gareth on the flying arete

West Ridge
Gareth on the flying arete
© Matthew Glenn

Valentine Fabre on the outstanding Arete du Diable, Mont Blanc du Tacul

Arête du Diable Traverse
Valentine Fabre on the outstanding Arete du Diable, Mont Blanc du Tacul
© Ben Tibbetts

Two alpinists descending from Pointe Whymper.

Walker Spur
Two alpinists descending from Pointe Whymper.
© Josh Willett

2nd pitch of the upper chimneys on the Cassin

Cassin
2nd pitch of the upper chimneys on the Cassin
© Birks

Moody conditions on the Diables Arête

Arête du Diable Traverse
Moody conditions on the Diables Arête
© Hamish Frost


Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
FRANCE
Pilier Central (Devies-Gervasutti Route) ED1 *** 4 1,000m L'Ailefroide
North Face - George Russenberger ED1 - ? Pic Sans Nom
Pilier Sud Barre des Ecrins TD 5c *** 32 1,100m Barre des Écrins
North-West Face V - ? L'Olan
Meije Grand Pic, directe face sud TD *** 24 800m • 26 La Meije
Aiguille Noire de Peutérey TD+ 4 *** 47 1,100m • 42 Mont Blanc
Ratti-Vittali TD+ 5 ? Mont Blanc
Central Pillar of Freney ED1 5c *** 20 ? Mont Blanc
Bonatti-Ghigo ED1 7a *** 25 470m Mont Blanc du Tacul
Arête du Diable Traverse D+ 5c *** 77 600m Mont Blanc du Tacul
Walker Spur ED1 6a *** 70 1,200m Grandes Jorasses
Croz Spur ED1 *** 14 1,000m Grandes Jorasses
Contamine Route TD 6a ** 51 ? Petites Jorasses
Brown-Whillans (British Route) TD+ 6c *** 37 350m Aiguille de...
Tournier Spur Direct ED1 5c *** 15 ? Les Droites
SWITZERLAND
Southeast Ridge TD- - ? Bietschhorn
Sudgrat TD- 5c *** 18 ? Stockhorn...
North Face Direct ED2 - ? Wetterhorn
Northeast Face (Lüthy-Steuri) (Classic Route) 5c *** 26 500m • 18 Engelhörner
Inwyler-Bielmeier 6a+ *** 3 450m • 14 Tällistock -...
S-Pfeiler V+ 1 ? Graue Wand
West Ridge ED1 6b *** 91 1,000m • 35 Salbitschijen
Direkte Nordwand 6a+ 4 450m • 11 Bockmattli
South Face Diedre - Zweiter Kreuzberg VI- 1 300m • 12 Kreuzberg
HOLD FOR 26
Alte Süd 6b+ 1 ? • 13 Churfirsten
Cassin TD ** 216 ? Piz Badile
Northwest Pillar (Gaiser-Lehmann) TD *** 7 1,100m • 29 Pizzo Cengalo
Flatiron TD- *** 30 350m • 12 Pizzi Gemelli
North West Ridge "Fuorikante" TD- * 3 600m Sciora Dafora
HOLD FOR 32
HOLD FOR 33
HOLD FOR 34
Direkte Sudwand VI 3 310m • 9 Rote Flüh
GERMANY
Gonda VI+ 1 270m • 9 Oberreintaldom
Nordwand: Schober-Münch VI+ 2 300m • 9 Unterer...
AUSTRIA
Southwest Face VI- 1 250m • 8 Scharnitzspitze
Rainer/Aschenbrenner VII *** 4 400m • 10 Schüsselkarspitze
Peters/Haringer VI 4 400m • 11 Schüsselkarspitze
SAVE FOR 41
North-East Diedre Direct VI- 1 ? Kleiner Lafatscher
Schmid/Krebs VI - 850m • 35 Laliderer Spitze
Rebitsch/Spiegl VII - 700m • 27 Laliderer Spitze
HOLD FOR 45
Fußsteinkante V- 5 450m • 12 Fusstein
HOLD FOR 47
HOLD FOR 48
Dülfer VI+ 7 550m • 21 Totenkirchl
Göttner VI+ 4 275m • 9 Karlspitze
Dülfer VI+ 12 500m • 16 Fleischbank
Schule-Diem/Haslacher-Behringer VII- ** 5 220m • 13 Predigtstuhl
Lucke/Strobl-Riss VII- 3 210m • 7 Bauernpredigstuhl
Buhl VI+ 1 400m • 15 Maukspitze
GERMANY
HOLD FOR 56
HOLD FOR 57
HOLD FOR 58
Kleiner Trichter VII *** 3 450m • 16 Göll
ITALY
Via della Concordia VI+ *** 1 420m • 10 Brenta Group
Pilier dei Francesi (Frenchmen's Pillar) ED1 *** 1 1,000m • 25 Crozzon di Brenta
South-West corner (Fehrmann route) V *** 17 350m • 13 Brenta Group
North-East Face "Detassis" VI- - 550m • 17 Brenta Group
West Face (Buhlweg) ED2 1 ? • 15 Roda di Vaèl
Steger VI- *** 42 730m • 18 Cima Catinaccio...
Big Micheluzzi VI *** 90 350m • 12 Piz Ciavazes
South-West Face (Solda) VII * 2 550m • 21 Marmolada
Gogna, via del Cinquantenario Fisi VII- *** 2 800m • 25 Marmolada
HOLD FOR 68
Buhlriss TD- *** 4 450m • 10 Cima Canali
HOLD FOR 70
Spigolo Nord TD *** 2 1,600m Monte Agner
South Face Direct (Tissi) VI- *** 22 540m • 15 Civetta Group
South Face (Carlesso) VIII- *** 1 700m • 24 Civetta Group
North-West Face (Livanos Diedre) VII - 800m • 16 Civetta Group
North-West Face (Solleder) V+ *** - 1,300m • 31 Civetta Group
North-West Face (Andrich) VI - 650m • 21 Civetta Group
North-West Face VII+ 2 500m • 9 Civetta Group
North Face V+ *** - 850m • 18 Pelmo Group
Via Costantini-Ghedina VI- ** 58 500m • 18 Tofana di Rozes
Lacedelli VIII- *** 13 530m • 15 Cima Scotoni
Spigolo Jori/Fiames Arete V+ *** 67 400m • 15 Punta Fiames
HOLD FOR 82
HOLD FOR 83
Swiss Route (Swiss - Italian) IX- *** 1 500m • 17 Tre Cime
Cassin VIII *** 12 450m • 12 Tre Cime
Hasse-Brandler VIII+ *** 57 ? Tre Cime
Spigolo Giallo (Yellow Edge) VI+ *** 104 350m • 13 Tre Cime
HOLD FOR 87
HOLD FOR 88
AUSTRIA
Direct North Face V+ ** 2 600m Laserz
ITALY
HOLD FOR 90
YUGOSLAVIA (NOW SLOVENIA)
Direktna Smer (Direct Route) V+ 2 900m Špik
AUSTRIA
Schinkoverschneidung VII- *** 1 850m • 22 Dachstein
Maixkante VI *** 2 700m • 22 Dachstein
SO-Pfeiler direkt VII ** 2 300m • 9 Dachstein
Direct north face VII *** 1 350m • 11 Gosaukamm
Ostkante VII- *** 4 450m • 11 Gosaukamm
Rosskuppenkante VI ** 1 600m • 17 Gesause
Nordwand klassisch VI+ *** 1 400m • 13 Gesause
STANDENWAND - SOUTH-EAST FACE WAIT FOR DB
Westkante (Schartenspitze) VII 2 250m • 8 Hochschwab
142 stars 1,395 39,175m 966
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