Rockfax Description
The left arete of the tower features steady climbing leading to a high crux where you might need to get hold of yourself. A short and bold layback sprint above a good safety net is the spice. © Rockfax

FA. Gabriel Regan 1977

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Ultimate E4 ticklist, One Day Challenges: HVS-E4.

Carl 06/Aug Lead dnf

Was super green at the start unfortunately. Couldn't get to the main act, not much friction on the slopey break low down

MNC 02/Oct/16 2nd
with Rob
robertmichaellovell 02/Oct/16 Lead
with Mark C
Graeme Hammond 04/May/16 Lead RP
with Jim
Jim Slater 04/May/16 2nd O/S
James Lowe 04/May/16 2nd dog

Cracking route. Good fun even though I kept falling off

dom94 04/May/16 Lead O/S

Actually found moves after the first gear to be hardest, though I think I may have been the wrong site of the arete then. The top slab is awesome, properly committing slab to the slopey break

Ramon Marin 24/Feb/16 TR RP
with Matt Pidgen
Matt Cooke 27/Dec/15 Lead rpt
Dale Comley 27/Dec/15 2nd β
Hidden 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Louishmouis 23/May/15 Lead G/U
with Felix
Felix la shat ??/2015 TR dog
with Louis
Gudge 02/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Excellent - upper arete & moves on it fantastic and as mentioned below it's not all over when you reach the break!

Lenny 02/Oct/14 2nd O/S
with Chris
bencole ?/Oct/14 Lead RP
mark20 18/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 03/May/14 Lead O/S

Epic route!

fabricio 03/May/14 Lead O/S
with lee
WillDoyle 24/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Haydn Jones 04/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 04/Mar/14 2nd
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 28/Feb/14 Lead G/U

first e4. great route!

Teappleby 26/Feb/14 2nd O/S

some really fun smeary/ layaway moves. It isn't over when you get the break though!

Matthew Ferrier 26/Feb/14 Lead O/S

Sketchily sketched. Enjoyable but panicky, of the better things I've done at Stanage. Probably a good route to try after doing The Brush Off at Rivelin.

Andy Peak 1 ??/2014 2nd

Just as hard on second :

with Hayden Jones
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
robertmctague ??/2014 Lead O/S
Matt Cooke 30/Nov/13 Lead dnf
with Scott, Sam Taylor
tim newton 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S

e3,5b/c..? Only about 3 metres of harder climbing but its committing.

hlegge 05/Oct/13 2nd O/S

bomb shelter just before committing crux. glad i was seconding it!

with Tim Newton
Hidden 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/13 2nd O/S
deacondeacon 26/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Not the best route for a hot day but it went ok.

Hidden ?/Jul/13 Lead RP
Andy Peak 1 03/Mar/13 Lead O/S

First e4 grate moves in a good position

with Cliff
w.pettet-smith 18/Feb/13 Lead

wanted to do this for a while. very nice indeed, wonderful position. took a lob by keeping feet to low on the reach. walked them up a little higher and was fine.

with sean
danJBA 17/Feb/13 Lead
Kayan 17/Feb/13 2nd
samt ??/2013 -
dominic lee 02/Dec/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Nov/12 Lead O/S
pipof747 04/Nov/12 Lead O/S
sparkass 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Rob Lovatt
Neil R 27/May/12 2nd dog
Harry Holmes 25/Mar/12 Lead dnf

The fall is safe

with Joanna
Hidden 17/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Andrew Barker 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S

The crux is very good but it didn't feel more than E3.

with Tom Lyons
Hidden 11/Sep/11 Lead O/S
elCapitano 03/Sep/11 2nd O/S

Massive cheers to the cool Scouse blokes who let me second this.

with Coatesy
nige 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with colin struthers, mark hounslea
redjerry ?/Jul/11 TR O/S

short but great

Kyuzo 03/Apr/11 Lead
harvie 19/Mar/11 Lead
with "mad" max the guy from the guide
pie_eater_pete 08/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Gambit 21/Jan/11 Lead RP

Beautiful day, crisp conditions, top crux scary but safe (ish).

with Paula
mwatson ??/2011 -
Hidden 04/May/10 Lead O/S
Andy Moles 22/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Ferdia
ferdia 22/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S
burto 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with fergus
Mr Powly 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Rozzy
Fergus Cuthill 17/Apr/10 2nd O/S
tom.e 25/Mar/10 Lead β
with Malcolm
Hidden 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S
dj_brigham05 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ?/Dec/09 -
lukea 07/Nov/09 Lead O/S
with Nathan M
Hidden 07/Nov/09 Lead β
AJ007 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Dan
dan gibson 19/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with AJ
fennerz 14/Jun/09 Lead dnf

big fall, shit friction.

with Dan Lane
chris sm 13/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Dan 85 29/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Pete
Hidden ??/2009 Lead
Orlov ??/2009 Lead O/S
with brandon
Franco Cookson ??/2009 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Nov/08 2nd

Great lead by Kieran

with Kieran Leary
Pete Graham 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Luke Porter
PenJD 17/Oct/08 Lead O/S

Perfect conditions, had to at least check it out and then before I knew it...I was at the top!!! Fantastic.

Hidden 17/Oct/08 2nd
Hidden 09/Oct/08 Lead O/S
reapey 27/Sep/08 2nd rpt
with phil
Hidden 20/Sep/08 2nd dog
Hidden 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Franco Cookson OLD 15/Jul/08 Lead O/S

If only the pocket wasn't there.........

Luke Brooks 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S
ChalkBall 17/Feb/08 2nd O/S
Ben1983 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Phill Mitch ??/2008 Lead β

lead clean with beta.Climbed 2 meters right of lower arete, direct I think is more like 6a, unless you are tall.The upper arete is brilliant great moves, exposed,and run out, fantastic.

with reapey
Hidden 23/Nov/07 Lead dnf
drysori 16/Nov/07 Lead O/S

Similar in difficulty to Crescent Arete, although a little scarier.

Sidekick ?/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Jus 22/Sep/07 Lead O/S

The arete all the way.

Toby Dunn 15/Feb/07 Lead O/S
with Ruth
The old James turnbull ??/2007 Lead
with aiden
Hidden 12/Jun/06 Lead RP
mgeek ??/2006 Lead
with Dace Jabroe
Ram MkiV 13/Dec/05 Lead O/S

'Sweet as a nut mate'

with Alex Mason
Hidden 20/Nov/05 Lead O/S
Ben Bransby 02/Sep/05 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
philhilo ?/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with brian rodgers, Trevor Box
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Rich Malcolm 01/Feb/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Dec/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Chris Ellis 13/Apr/03 2nd
with Dean Grindle
highlux ?/Apr/02 Lead O/S

My first UK E4. Classic climb.

Gus 17/Feb/02 Lead O/S
with luisa giles
akhughes ?/May/01 Lead β
Strong Steve 30/Apr/00 Lead O/S
tlr ??/2000 Lead
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Spottykidfromstourbridge ??/1998 Lead O/S
ste_d 01/May/94 2nd O/S
with mik
nokishatov 01/May/94 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Apr/94 Lead O/S
Roget 21/Jul/91 Lead O/S
with jim, jon
Hidden 24/Sep/89 Lead
Billg ??/1988 Lead O/S
nbotting ??/1982 -
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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 50
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 48
Votes cast 44
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set