Rockfax Description
Bold and high in the grade. Climb the thin crack to the arete then balance round left and finish direct. The big black flake right of the arete is hollow and not a great spot to place runners. © Rockfax
FA. John Allen early 1970s.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age , Stanage Plantation , Stanage HVS Challenge , John Allen (gritstone) megamix , Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E1
User | Date | Notes | ||
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leon | 17 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: it might not be that hard but those last moves seem a long way above indifferent gear. i managed to get a micro cam (smaller end of my set) and a number 3 behind the flake (agree it sounded hollow and i wouldn't like to test it. you need to hunt for the holds at the top out. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: it might not be that hard but those last moves seem a long way above indifferent gear. i managed to get a micro cam (smaller end of my set) and a number 3 behind the flake (agree it sounded hollow and i wouldn't like to test it. you need to hunt for the holds at the top out. |
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MeMeMe | 19 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: I put in a bomber hex behind the flake on the right of the arete (but I was a bit worried about pulling the flake off) and then a side runner at the bottom of the big crack that pegasus wall goes up which I guess would lower the grade? Not sure where the crux was, the moves up to the top were really nice. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I put in a bomber hex behind the flake on the right of the arete (but I was a bit worried about pulling the flake off) and then a side runner at the bottom of the big crack that pegasus wall goes up which I guess would lower the grade? Not sure where the crux was, the moves up to the top were really nice. |
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Stefan Kruger | 17 Jan, 2002 |
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βeta: This grade is spot on -- at HVS it was an accident waiting to happen -- one runner below half height, and the crux at the top. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: This grade is spot on -- at HVS it was an accident waiting to happen -- one runner below half height, and the crux at the top. |
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Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Curbar Edge)