Rockfax Description
Devious and worthwhile. Climb Paradise Wall to just below where the right-hand crack ends, then traverse right all the way to the exposed arete and finish up this. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A teeny thread helps protect the traverse.

FA. Alan Clarke 1962

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage 100 VD - VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+.

Anti-faff 02/Jan Lead O/S

Ace, better than Paradise Wall.

with CMC meet
Stroppy 23/Oct/16 Solo O/S

Really nice route, enjoyed the traverse

with SUMC
petegruf 09/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with claire
khalidq 07/Oct/16 Lead rpt
with Liz Caspar
MrFantastic 06/Oct/16 Solo O/S
strudles 24/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Scott Bradshaw
Hidden 24/Jul/16 Lead O/S
emgroves 29/Jun/16 2nd
Hidden 06/Jun/16 2nd rpt
SGD 05/Jun/16 2nd O/S

Really good, the traverse is airy but easier than it 1st appears.

with Tim
Antonio Ferra ?/Jun/16 Lead O/S
No? Yes! 28/May/16 Lead


with Ronan
sopaz 15/May/16 Lead
with Palmer
Palmer 15/May/16 2nd
Palmer 15/May/16 2nd
Hidden 08/May/16 2nd
Ardo 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
the power 30/Apr/16 2nd
with neil
joermann 22/Apr/16 2nd
timrooker 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S

epic unexpected thread on the traverse, a better way to finish paradise wall

with Carla
CarlaJG 17/Apr/16 2nd
ChrisVickers 08/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Stuart Howard 08/Apr/16 2nd
jonhowson 03/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Really great route! Loved the traverse. Not sure about 4c, more like 4b.

with Milly, Claudia
Capricorn One 03/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Just a really great route.

with Nina
giuly 03/Apr/16 Lead
with Milena
Clama 03/Apr/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Apr/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Dec/15 2nd
Hidden 18/Oct/15 Lead O/S
john_ni 24/Sep/15 2nd
with Julian Sorrell (PCC)
robgixer 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S
joemallia 11/Sep/15 2nd rpt
Hidden 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Ciderslider 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with charley
charley 15/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Mark
Hidden 12/Aug/15 Lead
Tony Ryland 10/Aug/15 2nd

Almost dark

with steveshaking, Pete Brown, Steve Barby
Hidden 10/Aug/15 Lead
fatbuoybazza 18/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with daveyw
Hidden 18/Jul/15 2nd
daviesp2 05/Jul/15 2nd
thehugehead 27/Jun/15 Lead dnf

No gear on traverse - didn't fancy exposing second.

with Alice
tallginge 23/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with ralph
Hidden 10/Jun/15 2nd
ColdAndWet 10/Jun/15 Lead
keitht 04/Jun/15 Lead

Felt hard but I may have traversed right a bit too high.

dewiturton 04/Jun/15 2nd
with keitht
Hidden ?/May/15 -
khalidq 20/Apr/15 2nd β
with Aurelio Barranco, Ian Lau
Hidden 19/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 17/Apr/15 Solo O/S

really good. escapes the polish of paradise

John Nuttall 08/Apr/15 Lead
with Coel
Stoff 06/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Mark L, gpcomps
gpcomps 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Nice level of exposure on the traverse

Mark Loveday 06/Apr/15 2nd O/S
bencole ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Mar/15 Lead β
Hidden 22/Mar/15 Lead
Marcin78 ?/Mar/15 2nd
with Karol
Hidden ??/2015 -
Canyak ??/2015 -
dan_o_b ??/2015 Lead O/S
Calum Wadsworth 31/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Emma
Dafydd Llywelyn 28/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Ewan Russell 28/Oct/14 2nd O/S
pebbles 12/Oct/14 2nd
with steve jenkins
Simon Caldwell 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S

I've meant to climb this for years, finally got round to it. Fine route, a worthy alternative finish to Paradise Wall - well protected, I'd give it HS 4b but maybe suits my style.

with Carmen
Hidden 12/Oct/14 2nd
Nick205228 14/Sep/14 Lead
sparkass 13/Sep/14 Solo O/S

100 IAD No. 58

Hidden 30/Aug/14 2nd O/S
ashtond6 24/Aug/14 Lead rpt
alp79 24/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Montecore 24/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Matt Ray
Lukem6 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with gaz b
grrrrrrrh 20/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Rosie Hawker
Pete Pozman 25/Jun/14 2nd O/S

A good lead, harder than it looks

with John Byrne
jasonpm 21/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Martin Hore
pedrosanpb 16/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with bob akam
bendevonport 08/Jun/14 2nd
jshields 08/Jun/14 Lead
Hidden 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Lancer 06/Jun/14 2nd
with Andy PCC
LJC 31/May/14 Lead O/S
with Little Ben
Paul Baxter 18/May/14 Lead O/S
wyzfen 18/May/14 2nd O/S
Radical-G 06/May/14 Lead O/S
mattgrange 04/May/14 Lead O/S

Fun, some nerve needed but only for a couple of moves

the power 28/Apr/14 2nd rpt
with rob
Hidden 27/Apr/14 Lead rpt
helin 27/Apr/14 Lead
with jules
Hidden 18/Apr/14 2nd
ralphio 13/Apr/14 2nd

Enjoyable climbing up the parallel cracks. Easy traverse, felt secure throughout.

with Nik
Hidden 03/Mar/14 2nd
Hidden ??/2014 -
adie84 ??/2014 -
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
mileshill540 ??/2014 Lead
Hidden 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 30/Nov/13 2nd rpt
Jacob k-d 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S
08nbrierley 29/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Jacob
thrutch 28/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Marc
leon 28/Sep/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 28/Sep/13 Lead
Hidden 28/Sep/13 2nd
Mr Messy 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Cath
tsjx 08/Sep/13 2nd
with John Mc
Hidden 27/Aug/13 Lead
alaster tonge 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S

BMC guide says it's scary for the very short. I'm very tall and critical hand slopers for reasurance on traverse were below my armpits so also scary for the very tall, until side pull found!

with Assad Lahlou
Hidden 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/13 2nd O/S
pebbles 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S

lovely delicate traverse and exposed arete, much nicer than the book makes it sound, deserves more stars

Hidden 26/Jun/13 Lead O/S
popebenedictus 24/Jun/13 2nd O/S
adrianscott 24/Jun/13 Lead O/S
shaunhumphreys 19/Jun/13 Lead O/S
JakeWShaw 19/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Shaun
Becky E 10/Jun/13 Lead rpt

Why do I always climb too high past the correct break? And why did Julian do the same?

with Julian
Montecore 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Lovely traverse

with Duncan Exley
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Matt Harmon 31/May/13 Lead O/S
with Fran
franhammond92 31/May/13 2nd
franhammond92 31/May/13 2nd
Pike 05/May/13 Lead O/S

Very pleasant, gets the best of paradise wall with a nice story traverse.

with Nathan
Rob84 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Jenko
Paul Hy 21/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Phil T
the power 21/Feb/13 2nd rpt
with Paul Hy
the power 13/Jan/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/Jan/13 2nd
deacondeacon 12/Jan/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jan/13 -
joeflan 29/Nov/12 2nd O/S
Double Knee Bar 11/Nov/12 Lead O/S
sopaz 27/Oct/12 2nd
Palmer 27/Oct/12 Lead
the power 04/Oct/12 2nd

the traverse of death

with rob, ken
dr_botnik 04/Oct/12 Lead O/S

placed a high cam but didnt down climb enough before starting the traverse; had to check me underwear after.

with ken, Phil Taylor
danny269 29/Sep/12 2nd

Keir went a bit high before beginning the traverse - didnt find the thread

with Keir
HimTiggins 15/Sep/12 2nd rpt
with Bart
tebs 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Tim
keithpeck 15/Sep/12 Lead rpt
knighty 15/Sep/12 2nd O/S
harold walmsley 13/Sep/12 Solo rpt

Like this one

Ali.B 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with RobertCanavan
Tdavy01 08/Sep/12 Lead
Hidden 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Rickrick 08/Sep/12 -
Griff1990 01/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Piers Turnbull, Ian Hylands
Ian Hylands 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Jules Lane 14/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Beautiful route. Not hard. Just no gear on the traverse which makes the two steps across slightly bold.

with Mynydd Colin
Hidden 11/Jul/12 2nd
Hidden 04/Jul/12 Lead rpt
ashtond6 01/Jul/12 -
mjeffery 27/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Sebastien Gastaud 18/Jun/12 2nd O/S
tigertim 18/Jun/12 Lead
Nigel Bond 16/May/12 Lead
with Anne Daykin, Bern Hardman
spragglerocks 12/May/12 2nd rpt
Batt 12/May/12 2nd O/S

Bit airy for seconds!

Hoyes 12/May/12 Lead O/S
gmatthew 10/May/12 Lead O/S
Oliver Houston 29/Mar/12 Solo β
Hidden 21/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jan/12 Lead
Hidden ??/2012 -
keith leonard ??/2012 -
andy mcc 02/Dec/11 2nd
with Robin Nicholson
dickie01 20/Nov/11 Lead
with Julian King
Hidden 12/Nov/11 Lead O/S
MrRoundy 12/Nov/11 2nd O/S
with JP
fatbuoybazza 29/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Started raining before travis making it a bit more tenuous, single rope technique deployed

akhughes 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Oct/11 2nd
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead
pie_eater_pete 23/Sep/11 Lead O/S
AlexRenshaw 23/Sep/11 Lead
with Simon Donowho
Climbster 09/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Bloke on a Rope 09/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Fat Tim 02/Sep/11 Lead O/S
joemallia 02/Sep/11 2nd rpt
max_chan 01/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/11 2nd
Nigel Bond 31/Aug/11 Lead
with Bern Hardman
Dino Dave 29/Aug/11 Lead dnf

Bit of a disaster... climbed up well past the traverse and had to down climb. Looked at the traverse and didn't feel up to it. Finished up Paradise Wall

with Dad
Hidden 17/Aug/11 Lead
Chris Ellis 30/Jul/11 2nd
with Paul Wright, Jim Hatfield
Roget 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with robin, jim
philboy 28/Jul/11 Lead
with bisanth
Hidden 10/Jul/11 Lead rpt
RichardMc 03/Jul/11 Lead
with Dave Whiteley
w.pettet-smith 29/Jun/11 Solo
with me myself and pies
Hidden 12/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Adam1973 29/May/11 Lead rpt
with Martin
hotfeet 21/May/11 2nd
with Ant, Wayne
waynem1985 21/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/May/11 2nd O/S
Nick1812P 18/May/11 Lead O/S
with Jamie
rwm7131 03/May/11 2nd
with Dan Parker, Kevin Charleston
Ben Taggart-Ryan 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S
9fingerjon 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S

nice airy moves

with James H
Hidden 10/Apr/11 2nd
eltax2005 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Nice climb first double rope, that was novel. Don't like it

olliejackson 08/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 01/Apr/11 2nd
Steve13 26/Feb/11 2nd β
clukins 26/Feb/11 Lead O/S
pabbage 12/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Byronius Maximus 12/Feb/11 2nd
with Paul du Toit
uphillnow ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
patsaunders ??/2011 Lead
mike4563 20/Nov/10 Lead O/S
gethin_allen 16/Nov/10 Lead O/S

should have looked at the guidebook a bit closer, climbed to high before the traverse then had to down-climb

Tanya Savage 13/Nov/10 2nd

Bit delicate for the windy conditions!

Neil Pacey 13/Nov/10 Lead O/S
simondunf 18/Oct/10 Solo
APRS 02/Oct/10 2nd
Ewan Russell 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Alec
Hidden 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Ed Griffin 12/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Neill Turner, Alaric
Chris Craggs 22/Aug/10 2nd

Lovely route. Extends the pleasure of Paradise Crack.

with Colin Binks
Steve Waters, Mynydd 08/Aug/10 Lead
mtempest 08/Aug/10 2nd
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
dan gibson 03/Aug/10 Solo rpt
buxtoncoffeelover 27/Jul/10 Lead
Jim Slater 22/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Paul PCC
JRae 04/Jul/10 2nd
with E Shawcross
Hidden 04/Jul/10 -
ndraper1 ?/Jul/10 Lead
spragglerocks 23/May/10 2nd O/S
Col Kingshott 18/May/10 -
ollyhorst 15/May/10 Lead O/S
with Ben Sidsaph
Ben Sidsaph 15/May/10 2nd O/S
with Ollie
Hidden 27/Apr/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 25/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S
ben_250 21/Apr/10 2nd O/S

Nice route

Hidden 14/Apr/10 Lead
peter myers ?/Apr/10 Lead
with Mat Dalby
Ann S 28/Mar/10 2nd
with Adam
Adam1973 28/Mar/10 Lead rpt
with Ann S
Phil1967 17/Mar/10 2nd
Dave Mason 17/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Pete Graham 11/Mar/10 Solo
hallg005 ??/2010 2nd
Hidden ?/Dec/09 -
Hidden 29/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Circus 23/Sep/09 Solo O/S
Twisty 14/Sep/09 2nd rpt
with Nigel Stock
Oceanic 12/Sep/09 -
Hidden 27/Aug/09 2nd O/S
BicepAndrews 15/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Rachel S 08/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Mike
mike reed 08/Aug/09 Lead
Hidden 15/Jul/09 Solo
Strong Steve 03/Jun/09 Solo O/S
simonp ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Annelies Sarrazyn
Hidden 23/Apr/09 2nd
Lou Kennedy 23/Apr/09 Lead
Becky E 19/Apr/09 Lead β
CharlotteJelleyman 17/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Steve Franklin
Hidden 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S
metal arms 29/Mar/09 Solo O/S
Kirill 29/Mar/09 2nd
with Alex Cowan
d_meacher 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
grumpyoldjanner 15/Mar/09 2nd O/S
Adam1973 01/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Alex
Hidden 21/Feb/09 Lead
Hidden 21/Feb/09 2nd
Hidden 21/Feb/09 2nd
Hidden 21/Feb/09 Lead O/S
liamoloughlin 21/Feb/09 Lead
@ndy 03/Jan/09 Lead
RCrockford 03/Jan/09 2nd
with Andy C
Diggler 28/Nov/08 Lead O/S
with Ste D
Byronius Maximus 01/Nov/08 2nd O/S
Al Franks 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Claire
Alasdair88 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Claire
cy 18/Oct/08 2nd
with Al
jcurley 02/Oct/08 2nd O/S
JackMountains 17/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with James Fleming
Hidden 30/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 23/Aug/08 2nd O/S
whiting.jp 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Very nice, ended up being good preparation for Fairy Steps too.

with jamesca
Hedley 23/Aug/08 -
with Steve Grey
Becky E 17/Aug/08 2nd
with PCC
Simon Davenport 17/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Brian and Dave
Hidden 15/Aug/08 2nd O/S
victim of mathematics 15/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Lizzie
LoopyLou ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Helen Lear
givemetea 26/Jul/08 2nd O/S
with Craig Jenkins
feilx 11/Jun/08 Solo O/S
SecretSquirrel 10/Jun/08 2nd
with MeMeMe
MeMeMe 09/Jun/08 Lead O/S
smudge 06/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Will G
Hidden 06/Jun/08 Lead
Hidden 02/May/08 Lead O/S
TomHaigh ?/Apr/08 2nd O/S
with Paul Winders
Hidden ?/Apr/08 Lead O/S
kendogcatchy 06/Jan/08 Lead
Twisty ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 Lead
PenJD 25/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Simon Palmer
Graeme Hammond 09/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Twisty 09/Jun/07 2nd O/S
with Graeme Hammond
richgibson ?/Jun/07 2nd O/S
Duncan Skelton 20/May/07 2nd

The traverse is on poor feet and thin sloper hands. Pretty tenuous for 4c, felt more 5a on second. Stay low on the hands to get best use of the top break. Really look for the feet.

with Paul O'Toole
Jim Vach 12/May/07 Lead O/S
with Tim Dorsett
fizzy_elephant 03/May/07 Lead O/S
with Stephen Baker
BallsofBritishSteel 29/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Charles
cem 29/Apr/07 2nd rpt
dannyboy83 10/Apr/07 Solo O/S
kenneM ?/Apr/07 Lead
with Booby Hewitt
Bob M 21/Mar/07 Lead
maybe_si 02/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with charlie
rob askew 20/Feb/07 Lead O/S
with ben
Rampikino 14/Jan/07 2nd
with MMC Various
Hidden ??/2007 -
Duncan I ??/2007 -
Hidden ?/Dec/06 Lead O/S
colin milton 21/Oct/06 Lead
Hidden 08/Oct/06 2nd O/S
bobette 20/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with paul
OffshoreAndy 21/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with NCC Nic
Hidden 20/Jun/06 Lead rpt
philwont 04/Jun/06 2nd O/S
with Alex T
Hidden 16/Apr/06 2nd O/S
Lev 14/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
baldcoder 24/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Little Old Lady
ChrisBrooke 17/Jul/05 2nd
with John Inkpen
greg101 10/Jul/05 2nd
with Matt O'Connor
Hidden 10/Jul/05 2nd
SMc 15/May/05 -
with Anne
cem 17/Apr/05 2nd
with Pete Atkinson
Pete Graham ??/2004 2nd
with Rick Graham
Hidden 12/Nov/03 Lead O/S
Jez 15/Oct/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/03 2nd
Hidden 23/Jun/03 Solo O/S
James B 24/May/03 -
Phil West 13/Jul/02 Lead O/S

First ever route with the Tan.

with Chris Tan
Hidden ??/2002 -
rocktigger ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Clare
alex_th 20/Mar/99 Lead O/S
with Stephen Lumb
Andy Say 01/Jun/96 Solo
Chris Ellis 10/Aug/94 2nd
with Rachel Nicolson
BRUCESTRAC ??/1988 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
Dave Musgrove 03/Jan/87 -
with Kim Greenald
RichardMc 16/Jul/77 2nd
with Harry Woodbridge
mikej 08/Sep/69 Solo
with E
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 58
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 59
Votes cast 56
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set