18m.

Rockfax Description
Devious and worthwhile. Climb Paradise Wall to just below where the right-hand crack ends, then traverse right all the way to the exposed arete and finish up this. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A teeny thread helps protect the traverse.

FA. Alan Clarke 1962

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage 100 VD - VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+.


ClimberDateStyle
notme 17/Jul 2nd
with Henry
HenryMeier 17/Jul Lead O/S
with notme
MSchobitz 09/Jul Solo O/S
Dizz 08/Jul Lead O/S
with Tobias poppe, Cristal
Ben Bransby 30/Jun Solo
davewsargent 14/Jun 2nd O/S
with Dave h
David Henchliffe 14/Jun Lead
with Dave Sargent
Will Webb 08/May Lead
with Alex
AF Webb 08/May 2nd β
emma1987 29/Apr 2nd O/S
djones66 23/Apr Lead O/S

Quality climbing on impeccable rock. The traverse is excellent fun and never hard - enjoyable runout without ever being really scary. Don't go too high for the traverse, though.

with Stve mc D
Hidden 15/Apr 2nd
TwofoZeus 08/Apr 2nd O/S

Protect the start of traverse, commit and protect once done; nothing difficult.

Jack_Clinch 03/Apr Lead
Hidden 26/Mar 2nd rpt
Hidden 26/Mar Lead O/S
FlavioL1989 25/Mar Solo O/S
Andy Moles 12/Mar Solo
georgenvk 11/Mar Lead O/S
with cem
cem 11/Mar 2nd rpt

Much damper than it looked, so dissuading me from doing Millsom's Minion.

Paul Hy 24/Feb Lead rpt
with Phil O
mrphilipoldham 24/Feb 2nd O/S
Anti-faff 02/Jan Lead O/S

Ace, better than Paradise Wall.

with CMC meet
Stroppy 23/Oct/16 Solo O/S

Really nice route, enjoyed the traverse

with SUMC
petegruf 09/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with claire
khalidq 07/Oct/16 Lead rpt
with Liz Caspar
MrFantastic 06/Oct/16 Solo O/S
strudles 24/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Scott Bradshaw
Hidden 24/Jul/16 Lead O/S
emgroves 29/Jun/16 2nd
Hidden 06/Jun/16 2nd rpt
SGD 05/Jun/16 2nd O/S

Really good, the traverse is airy but easier than it 1st appears.

with Tim
Antonio Ferra ?/Jun/16 Lead O/S
No? Yes! 28/May/16 Lead

Pleasant

with Ronan
Palmer 15/May/16 2nd
Palmer 15/May/16 2nd
sopaz 15/May/16 Lead
with Palmer
Hidden 08/May/16 2nd
Ardo 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
the power 30/Apr/16 2nd
with neil
joermann 22/Apr/16 2nd
CarlaJG 17/Apr/16 2nd
timrooker 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S

epic unexpected thread on the traverse, a better way to finish paradise wall

with Carla
Stuart Howard 08/Apr/16 2nd
ChrisVickers 08/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Clama 03/Apr/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Apr/16 2nd O/S
Capricorn One 03/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Just a really great route.

with Nina
giuly 03/Apr/16 Lead
with Milena
Hidden 03/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Dec/15 2nd
Mark Stevenson 18/Oct/15 Lead O/S
john_ni 24/Sep/15 2nd
with Julian Sorrell (PCC)
robgixer 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S
joemallia 11/Sep/15 2nd rpt
Hidden 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/15 Lead O/S
charley 15/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Mark
Ciderslider 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with charley
Hidden 12/Aug/15 Lead
Hidden 10/Aug/15 Lead
Tony Ryland 10/Aug/15 2nd

Almost dark

with steveshaking, Pete Brown, Steve Barby
Hidden 18/Jul/15 2nd
fatbuoybazza 18/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with daveyw
daviesp2 05/Jul/15 2nd
thehugehead 27/Jun/15 Lead dnf

No gear on traverse - didn't fancy exposing second.

with Alice
tallginge 23/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with ralph
Hidden 10/Jun/15 Lead
Hidden 10/Jun/15 2nd
dewiturton 04/Jun/15 2nd
with keitht
keitht 04/Jun/15 Lead

Felt hard but I may have traversed right a bit too high.

Hidden ?/May/15 -
khalidq 20/Apr/15 2nd β
with Aurelio Barranco, Ian Lau
Hidden 19/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 17/Apr/15 Solo O/S

really good. escapes the polish of paradise

John Nuttall 08/Apr/15 Lead
with Coel
Mark Loveday 06/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Stoff 06/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Mark L, gpcomps
gpcomps 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Nice level of exposure on the traverse

bencole ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S
HarryBowyer 22/Mar/15 Lead β
with Eszter
Hidden 22/Mar/15 Lead
Marcin78 ?/Mar/15 2nd
with Karol
Hidden ??/2015 -
dan_o_b ??/2015 Lead O/S
Canyak ??/2015 -
Calum Wadsworth 31/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Emma
Ewan Russell 28/Oct/14 2nd O/S
Dafydd Llywelyn 28/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Simon Caldwell 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S

I've meant to climb this for years, finally got round to it. Fine route, a worthy alternative finish to Paradise Wall - well protected, I'd give it HS 4b but maybe suits my style.

with Carmen
Hidden 12/Oct/14 2nd
pebbles 12/Oct/14 2nd
with steve jenkins
Nick205228 14/Sep/14 Lead
sparkass 13/Sep/14 Solo O/S

100 IAD No. 58

Hidden 30/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Montecore 24/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Matt Ray
ashtond6 24/Aug/14 Lead rpt
alp79 24/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Lukem6 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with gaz b
grrrrrrrh 20/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Rosie Hawker
Pete Pozman 25/Jun/14 2nd O/S

A good lead, harder than it looks

with John Byrne
jasonpm 21/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Martin Hore
pedrosanpb 16/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with bob akam
Hidden 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S
bendevonport 08/Jun/14 2nd
jshields 08/Jun/14 Lead
Lancer 06/Jun/14 2nd
with Andy PCC
LJC 31/May/14 Lead O/S
with Little Ben
Paul Baxter 18/May/14 Lead O/S
wyzfen 18/May/14 2nd O/S
Radical-G 06/May/14 Lead O/S
mattgrange 04/May/14 Lead O/S

Fun, some nerve needed but only for a couple of moves

Handsforfeet 02/May/14 2nd
with Rosie, Nik
the power 28/Apr/14 2nd rpt
with rob
Hidden 27/Apr/14 Lead rpt
helin 27/Apr/14 Lead
with jules
Hidden 18/Apr/14 2nd
ralphio 13/Apr/14 2nd

Enjoyable climbing up the parallel cracks. Easy traverse, felt secure throughout.

with Nik
Hidden 03/Mar/14 2nd
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
adie84 ??/2014 -
mileshill540 ??/2014 Lead
Graeme Hammond 30/Nov/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S
08nbrierley 29/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Jacob
Jacob k-d 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S
thrutch 28/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Marc
Hidden 28/Sep/13 Lead
Hidden 28/Sep/13 2nd
leon 28/Sep/13 Lead rpt
Mr Messy 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Cath
tsjx 08/Sep/13 2nd
with John Mc
Hidden 27/Aug/13 Lead
alaster tonge 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S

BMC guide says it's scary for the very short. I'm very tall and critical hand slopers for reasurance on traverse were below my armpits so also scary for the very tall, until side pull found!

with Assad Lahlou
Hidden 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/13 2nd O/S
pebbles 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S

lovely delicate traverse and exposed arete, much nicer than the book makes it sound, deserves more stars

Hidden 26/Jun/13 Lead O/S
popebenedictus 24/Jun/13 2nd O/S
adrianscott 24/Jun/13 Lead O/S
shaunhumphreys 19/Jun/13 Lead O/S
JakeWShaw 19/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Shaun
Becky E 10/Jun/13 Lead rpt

Why do I always climb too high past the correct break? And why did Julian do the same?

with Julian
Montecore 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Lovely traverse

with Duncan Exley
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead rpt
franhammond92 31/May/13 2nd
franhammond92 31/May/13 2nd
Matt Harmon 31/May/13 Lead O/S
with Fran
Pike 05/May/13 Lead O/S

Very pleasant, gets the best of paradise wall with a nice story traverse.

with Nathan
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Paul Hy 21/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Phil T
the power 21/Feb/13 2nd rpt
with Paul Hy
the power 13/Jan/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/Jan/13 2nd
deacondeacon 12/Jan/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jan/13 -
joeflan 29/Nov/12 2nd O/S
Double Knee Bar 11/Nov/12 Lead O/S
sopaz 27/Oct/12 2nd
Palmer 27/Oct/12 Lead
dr_botnik 04/Oct/12 Lead O/S

placed a high cam but didnt down climb enough before starting the traverse; had to check me underwear after.

with ken, Phil Taylor
the power 04/Oct/12 2nd

the traverse of death

with rob, ken
danny269 29/Sep/12 2nd

Keir went a bit high before beginning the traverse - didnt find the thread

with Keir
HimTiggins 15/Sep/12 2nd rpt
with Bart
tebs 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Tim
keithpeck 15/Sep/12 Lead rpt
knighty 15/Sep/12 2nd O/S
harold walmsley 13/Sep/12 Solo rpt

Like this one

Ali.B 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with RobertCanavan
John Elliott 08/Sep/12 2nd
Tdavy01 08/Sep/12 Lead
Hidden 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/12 -
Griff1990 01/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Piers Turnbull, Ian Hylands
Ian Hylands 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Jules Lane 14/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Beautiful route. Not hard. Just no gear on the traverse which makes the two steps across slightly bold.

with Mynydd Colin
Hidden 11/Jul/12 2nd
Hidden 04/Jul/12 Lead rpt
ashtond6 01/Jul/12 -
mjeffery 27/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Sebastien Gastaud 18/Jun/12 2nd O/S
tigertim 18/Jun/12 Lead
Nigel Bond 16/May/12 Lead
with Anne Daykin, Bern Hardman
Hoyes 12/May/12 Lead O/S
spragglerocks 12/May/12 2nd rpt
Batt 12/May/12 2nd O/S

Bit airy for seconds!

gmatthew 10/May/12 Lead O/S
Oliver Houston 29/Mar/12 Solo β
Hidden 21/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jan/12 Lead
keith leonard ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
andy mcc 02/Dec/11 2nd
with Robin Nicholson
dickie01 20/Nov/11 Lead
with Julian King
Hidden 12/Nov/11 Lead O/S
MrRoundy 12/Nov/11 2nd O/S
with JP
fatbuoybazza 29/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Started raining before travis making it a bit more tenuous, single rope technique deployed

akhughes 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead
Hidden 15/Oct/11 2nd
pie_eater_pete 23/Sep/11 Lead O/S
AlexRenshaw 23/Sep/11 Lead
with Simon Donowho
Climbster 09/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Bloke on a Rope 09/Sep/11 Lead O/S
joemallia 02/Sep/11 2nd rpt
Fat Tim 02/Sep/11 Lead O/S
max_chan 01/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/11 2nd
Nigel Bond 31/Aug/11 Lead
with Bern Hardman
Dino Dave 29/Aug/11 Lead dnf

Bit of a disaster... climbed up well past the traverse and had to down climb. Looked at the traverse and didn't feel up to it. Finished up Paradise Wall

with Dad
Hidden 17/Aug/11 Lead
Roget 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with robin, jim
Chris Ellis 30/Jul/11 2nd
with Paul Wright, Jim Hatfield
philboy 28/Jul/11 Lead
with bisanth
Hidden 10/Jul/11 Lead rpt
RichardMc 03/Jul/11 Lead
with Dave Whiteley
w.pettet-smith 29/Jun/11 Solo
with me myself and pies
Hidden 12/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Adam1973 29/May/11 Lead rpt
with Martin
hotfeet 21/May/11 2nd
with Ant, Wayne
waynem1985 21/May/11 Lead O/S
Nick1812P 18/May/11 Lead O/S
with Jamie
Hidden 18/May/11 2nd O/S
rwm7131 03/May/11 2nd
with Dan Parker, Kevin Charleston
Ben Taggart-Ryan 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S
9fingerjon 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S

nice airy moves

with James H
Hidden 10/Apr/11 2nd
eltax2005 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Nice climb first double rope, that was novel. Don't like it

olliejackson 08/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 01/Apr/11 2nd
clukins 26/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Steve13 26/Feb/11 2nd β
Byronius Maximus 12/Feb/11 2nd
with Paul du Toit
pabbage 12/Feb/11 Lead O/S
uphillnow ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
patsaunders ??/2011 Lead
mike4563 20/Nov/10 Lead O/S
gethin_allen 16/Nov/10 Lead O/S

should have looked at the guidebook a bit closer, climbed to high before the traverse then had to down-climb

Tanya Savage 13/Nov/10 2nd

Bit delicate for the windy conditions!

Neil Pacey 13/Nov/10 Lead O/S
simondunf 18/Oct/10 Solo
APRS 02/Oct/10 2nd
Ewan Russell 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Alec
Ed Griffin 12/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Neill Turner, Alaric
Alaric 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Ed, Neil
Chris Craggs 22/Aug/10 2nd

Lovely route. Extends the pleasure of Paradise Crack.

with Colin Binks
mtempest 08/Aug/10 2nd
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
Steve Waters, Mynydd 08/Aug/10 Lead
dan gibson 03/Aug/10 Solo rpt
buxtoncoffeelover 27/Jul/10 Lead
Jim Slater 22/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Paul PCC
JRae 04/Jul/10 2nd
with E Shawcross
Hidden 04/Jul/10 -
ndraper1 ?/Jul/10 Lead
spragglerocks 23/May/10 2nd O/S
Col Kingshott 18/May/10 -
ollyhorst 15/May/10 Lead O/S
with Ben Sidsaph
Ben Sidsaph 15/May/10 2nd O/S
with Ollie
Hidden 27/Apr/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 25/Apr/10 Lead O/S
ben_250 21/Apr/10 2nd O/S

Nice route

Hidden 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Apr/10 Lead
peter myers ?/Apr/10 Lead
with Mat Dalby
Ann S 28/Mar/10 2nd
with Adam
Adam1973 28/Mar/10 Lead rpt
with Ann S
Dave Mason 17/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Phil1967 17/Mar/10 2nd
Pete Graham 11/Mar/10 Solo
hallg005 ??/2010 2nd
Hidden ?/Dec/09 -
Hidden 29/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Circus 23/Sep/09 Solo O/S
Twisty 14/Sep/09 2nd rpt
with Nigel Stock
Oceanic 12/Sep/09 -
Hidden 27/Aug/09 2nd O/S
BicepAndrews 15/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Rachel S 08/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Mike
mike reed 08/Aug/09 Lead
Hidden 15/Jul/09 Solo
Strong Steve 03/Jun/09 Solo O/S
simonp ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Annelies Sarrazyn
Lou Kennedy 23/Apr/09 Lead
Hidden 23/Apr/09 2nd
Becky E 19/Apr/09 Lead β
CharlotteJelleyman 17/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Steve Franklin
Hidden 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Kirill 29/Mar/09 2nd
with Alex Cowan
metal arms 29/Mar/09 Solo O/S
grumpyoldjanner 15/Mar/09 2nd O/S
d_meacher 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Adam1973 01/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Alex
Hidden 21/Feb/09 Lead
Hidden 21/Feb/09 2nd
Hidden 21/Feb/09 2nd
Hidden 21/Feb/09 Lead O/S
liamoloughlin 21/Feb/09 Lead
RCrockford 03/Jan/09 2nd
with Andy C
@ndy 03/Jan/09 Lead
Diggler 28/Nov/08 Lead O/S
with Ste D
Byronius Maximus 01/Nov/08 2nd O/S
cy 18/Oct/08 2nd
with Al
Al Franks 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Claire
RagingPuffin 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Claire
jcurley 02/Oct/08 2nd O/S
JackMountains 17/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with James Fleming
Hidden 30/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/08 Lead rpt
whiting.jp 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Very nice, ended up being good preparation for Fairy Steps too.

with jamesca
Hidden 23/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Hedley 23/Aug/08 -
with Steve Grey
Simon Davenport 17/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Brian and Dave
Becky E 17/Aug/08 2nd
with PCC
Hidden 15/Aug/08 2nd O/S
victim of mathematics 15/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Lizzie
LoopyLou ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Helen Lear
givemetea 26/Jul/08 2nd O/S
with Craig Jenkins
feilx 11/Jun/08 Solo O/S
SecretSquirrel 10/Jun/08 2nd
with MeMeMe
MeMeMe 09/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/08 Lead
smudge 06/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Will G
Hidden 02/May/08 Lead O/S
TomHaigh ?/Apr/08 2nd O/S
with Paul Winders
Hidden ?/Apr/08 Lead O/S
kendogcatchy 06/Jan/08 Lead
Twisty ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 Lead
PenJD 25/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Simon Palmer
Twisty 09/Jun/07 2nd O/S
with Graeme Hammond
Graeme Hammond 09/Jun/07 Lead O/S
richgibson ?/Jun/07 2nd O/S
Duncan Skelton 20/May/07 2nd

The traverse is on poor feet and thin sloper hands. Pretty tenuous for 4c, felt more 5a on second. Stay low on the hands to get best use of the top break. Really look for the feet.

with Paul O'Toole
Jim Vach 12/May/07 Lead O/S
with Tim Dorsett
fizzy_elephant 03/May/07 Lead O/S
with Stephen Baker
BallsofBritishSteel 29/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Charles
cem 29/Apr/07 2nd rpt
dannyboy83 10/Apr/07 Solo O/S
kenneM ?/Apr/07 Lead
with Booby Hewitt
Bob M 21/Mar/07 Lead
maybe_si 02/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with charlie
rob askew 20/Feb/07 Lead O/S
with ben
Rampikino 14/Jan/07 2nd
with MMC Various
Duncan I ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ?/Dec/06 Lead O/S
colin milton 21/Oct/06 Lead
Hidden 08/Oct/06 2nd O/S
bobette 20/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with paul
OffshoreAndy 21/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with NCC Nic
Hidden 20/Jun/06 Lead rpt
philwont 04/Jun/06 2nd O/S
with Alex T
Hidden 16/Apr/06 2nd O/S
Lev 14/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
baldcoder 24/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Little Old Lady
ChrisBrooke 17/Jul/05 2nd
with John Inkpen
Hidden 10/Jul/05 2nd
greg101 10/Jul/05 2nd
with Matt O'Connor
SMc 15/May/05 -
with Anne
cem 17/Apr/05 2nd
with Pete Atkinson
Pete Graham ??/2004 2nd
with Rick Graham
Hidden 12/Nov/03 Lead O/S
Jez 15/Oct/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/03 2nd
Hidden 23/Jun/03 Solo O/S
James B 24/May/03 -
Phil West 13/Jul/02 Lead O/S

First ever route with the Tan.

with Chris Tan
Hidden ??/2002 -
rocktigger ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Clare
alex_th 20/Mar/99 Lead O/S
with Stephen Lumb
Andy Say 01/Jun/96 Solo
Chris Ellis 10/Aug/94 2nd
with Rachel Nicolson
BRUCESTRAC ??/1988 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
Dave Musgrove 03/Jan/87 -
with Kim Greenald
RichardMc 16/Jul/77 2nd
with Harry Woodbridge
jon 20/Dec/75 Lead
with Elaine
mikej 08/Sep/69 Solo
with E
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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 60
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 61
Votes cast 58
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set