There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Hard work but oddly appealing and popular too. Thrash up the slanting chimney-groove to reach a trough and possible stance. Hand-traverse out left below the overhang until a steep pull (good gear) gains the thin finishing crack - phew! © Rockfax
FA. Bob Brayshaw 1959.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Plantation , Severe Stanage , Stanage HVS Challenge , Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon , Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E1 , I’ve climbed a thousand VDiffs but I wanna be a HVS climber , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Fraser kid | 1 Aug, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Great fun, and never too difficult but the move onto the ledge is oddly committing even though the gear is right next to you. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Great fun, and never too difficult but the move onto the ledge is oddly committing even though the gear is right next to you. |
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Stefan Kruger | 7 Oct, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: A most entertaining route, in a sort of traditional fashion. Pumpy, but the difficulties are short-lived. Hard to get jams that stick in the traverse, which is best sprinted. It's all over once you have your hands in the vertical crack. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A most entertaining route, in a sort of traditional fashion. Pumpy, but the difficulties are short-lived. Hard to get jams that stick in the traverse, which is best sprinted. It's all over once you have your hands in the vertical crack. |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Kinder Northern Edges)