Rockfax Description
The rift that cleaves the centre of the buttress, passing the chock early on with difficulty. Safe but quite a battle. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, Stanage Starred VDiffs, Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying, Stanage Chimney Tour.

Hidden 14/Oct/17 Solo O/S
lukevf 21/Sep/17 Solo O/S

Went under chockstone -- more squeeze less battle

Hidden 19/Sep/17 Lead
Hidden 01/Sep/17 Solo O/S
robblowen 26/Aug/17 Solo O/S

86 of 100

buxtoncoffeelover 29/Jul/17 Lead

Entertaining - too wide to be narrow, too narrow to be wide

with Helen
Mike Bovill 11/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Mouse5 28/May/17 TR O/S
Louise Brickell 28/May/17 2nd
with Peter J
Liam_T 27/May/17 Lead O/S

RNRMMC Peak Meet. Horrible thrutching.

Hidden 26/May/17 Lead O/S
JoeCoxson 26/May/17 Solo O/S
Ben Bransby 22/May/17 Lead
Harald 21/May/17 Solo O/S
keitht 22/Apr/17 Solo
Hidden 21/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/17 2nd
dewiturton 09/Apr/17 Solo
gaz3212 03/Apr/17 2nd O/S
Andypeak 03/Apr/17 Lead
bleddynmawr ??/2017 -
Jonny Holmes ?/Nov/16 AltLd
tomcoomber 10/Oct/16 2nd
with Sam Clifford
fuzzysheep01 09/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Robs_Uren 13/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Caitlin
Caitlin 13/Aug/16 -
Markheighton 23/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/May/16 2nd
Mark Loveday 07/May/16 2nd O/S
gpcomps 07/May/16 Lead O/S

Pretty thrutchy, not for the fat

with Mark L
Manix 06/May/16 Lead

So bad, it's good

with Jake Dowell
elfka 01/May/16 Lead
with Hugo Gibson
Withey3 22/Apr/16 Solo O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/16 2nd
Hidden 17/Apr/16 Lead
ed woods 19/Mar/16 Lead O/S
HDRambo ??/2016 2nd
Hidden 27/Dec/15 Solo O/S
Roget 01/Nov/15 Solo O/S
with robin
the power 25/Oct/15 Solo
with deacon
rushy11111918 03/Oct/15 2nd
with Olly Moff
Jonathan Hall 03/Oct/15 Solo
RM199 03/Oct/15 Solo O/S
Gloria 08/Aug/15 Lead G/U

Slightly narrowing and would be an off-width, awkward head-first straddle move onto the boulder lodged inside.

rachelvlc 08/Aug/15 2nd
John Higgs 08/Aug/15 Solo O/S
pawel suhy 06/Aug/15 2nd RP

Seconded after bail out from lead. Very awkward.

with PCC
Neal Jobling 06/Aug/15 2nd

A graceless thrutch that felt very hard for the grade.

with Tracy
Marmoset 02/Aug/15 2nd
mark44 23/May/15 Lead O/S

Awkward ..

alicethwaites 10/May/15 2nd
with Tom Geliot
Federico Sher 26/Apr/15 TR O/S
with Joe Breslin
Flavio 06/Apr/15 Solo O/S
tomlevett 01/Jan/15 -
Canyak ??/2015 -
SamT1 09/Nov/14 2nd β
with Wallace
Subwaycups 09/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Tucker
SuperLee1985 09/Nov/14 Lead

Fun route but the definition of a 'thrutch' getting past the chock was a battle that took several attempts before I squirmed in the right way to actually make any progress (hips were to wide). facing left seemed to help.

with Alex Hunt, Andrew Gardner
GuitarGenius92 25/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/14 2nd
sparkass 13/Sep/14 Solo O/S

100 IAD No. 61

Kate Hallam 31/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Chris Huntington 31/Aug/14 AltLd dnf
Mark Stevenson 26/Jun/14 Solo O/S
bendevonport 08/Jun/14 Lead
jshields 08/Jun/14 2nd
RKernan 16/Apr/14 2nd
ldavison440 16/Apr/14 Lead
Ron 15/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Helen
ThomasO'Hagan ?/Apr/14 2nd
with Eva Kocickova
cjcuni ?/Apr/14 Solo O/S
jneilly699 ?/Apr/14 2nd
Matt Marsh 30/Mar/14 Solo
Hidden 04/Mar/14 2nd O/S
BenRyle 13/Jan/14 Solo O/S
with James
JamesLloyd ?/Jan/14 Sent O/S
MikeDowsett ??/2014 Lead
with Mike Irwing
jhobbs 16/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Disgustingly awkward move onto chockstone!

with Clare Sparks, Ben Watson
charley 31/Aug/13 Solo O/S
jason smeeth 31/Aug/13 Lead
Calum Wadsworth 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with S.O.C, Emma
simontyrrell 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
deacondeacon 10/Jul/13 Solo O/S
Jimbo C 12/May/13 Solo O/S

Behind the chockstone. Nice little cave system to explore at the top too.

with Chris
cathymiller 06/May/13 2nd
with Guy Moulton
giuly 02/May/13 2nd
with Neil Shephard
Hidden 28/Apr/13 Solo
fweatherall1 27/Apr/13 2nd
with james
Sebastien Gastaud 20/Apr/13 2nd
with Anyes Varenne
anyes varenne 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
knighty 13/Nov/12 2nd O/S
alexcollins123 10/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Natalyaaa 22/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Wedged in horizontally with legs sticking out at one point!

with Penny
penny_pops25 21/Oct/12 2nd O/S

fun flailing

dsgarner 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Thomas Korrison 31/Aug/12 Lead O/S
nathan2day 11/Aug/12 2nd
with Martin Wilson
michaelcolledge 14/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hannes B 12/Jul/12 Solo O/S
waynem1985 17/Jun/12 Solo
bobstones 17/Jun/12 2nd O/S
fechtn 04/Jun/12 Lead
mchandy 04/Jun/12 2nd
with fechtn
TDSvejstrup 04/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with fechtn
Emma Painter 06/May/12 2nd
with Tom
scarybiker ?/Apr/12 Lead

horrible thrutching

Heather651 26/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Jonny
Gumery 26/Mar/12 2nd
jockpat 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
seanlikeskites 25/Mar/12 2nd O/S
EllieWoods 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Fran
Marktrin 24/Mar/12 2nd
with Ellie
Goose4 24/Mar/12 Solo O/S
with Chris Ince, Paul Moore
Hidden 23/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Mar/12 Lead
Hidden ??/2012 -
JdotP 12/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Engaging grunting moves at the crux with the risk of toppling out backwards from the chimney to keep you concentrating.

with Stanislav Huska
Tom Cox 24/Oct/11 2nd O/S
SteveJCox 24/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Tom Cox
Hidden 23/Oct/11 2nd dnf
Hidden 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S
jwpil 28/Sep/11 Solo O/S
climbingrev 26/Sep/11 2nd O/S

Just a chimney really - any narrower and it would be an off-width. A bit of a scrape and shuffle.Odd move to get off the ground, maybe mthis gives it the H of the VD.

Hidden ?/Sep/11 2nd
Hidden ?/Sep/11 Lead O/S
RagingSphere 10/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Josh
dbarmbs 03/Jul/11 2nd
with Neil McAlister
kermit_uk 08/Jun/11 2nd O/S
KurtD 08/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/11 2nd
Iain_L_32 ?/Jun/11 Lead
jimmi30 ?/Jun/11 2nd
GermanAlex 17/May/11 Lead O/S

harder if you have a massive bum, leave all gear except for 4 slings (it gets stuck & scratched, 2 threads in the chimney, 2 for the bomber belay)

Hidden 17/May/11 2nd
Hidden 14/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/11 Solo O/S
superturbo 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
DigitalSteak 22/Apr/11 2nd O/S
stoo2k 10/Apr/11 2nd O/S
stev1e.wilso 05/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Dylan
bigbadbob12345 05/Mar/11 Lead
Feneley ??/2011 Lead O/S

Was stuck trying to get on top of the chockstone (crux) for bloody ages, but completed with no falls or on rope rests.

with Geoff ?
torin_123 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 13/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Sep/10 Solo
dannyraff 17/Sep/10 Lead β

very tight.

SteveM 15/Aug/10 Solo
Rich K 04/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Wayne Cheung
treg 01/Aug/10 2nd

Just too narrow to effectively bend my knees in any sensible way. Seriously ungraceful.

with Bird
edmitchell 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Good route for udging up. Take a long sling for the low chockstone to protect

Hidden 05/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden 03/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden 03/Jun/10 Lead O/S
tomB 31/May/10 2nd O/S
with Juliette
Hidden 28/May/10 Lead
Hidden 22/May/10 Lead O/S
Brodie 21/May/10 Lead O/S
with mikey
Hidden 21/May/10 2nd
zoeduffin ?/May/10 Lead
Hidden ?/May/10 Lead O/S
AMarchant 15/Apr/10 Solo O/S
Adam Potter 17/Oct/09 Solo O/S
katyc 04/Oct/09 Solo
Hidden 19/Sep/09 2nd O/S
samuel_w ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S

My climbing partner decided that this was appropriate to address my stinking hangover...

Strong Steve 12/Jul/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/09 2nd β
mark stephenson 02/Jun/09 Lead
EmmanuelF 31/May/09 Lead O/S
with Laura
gravity 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with John Tomlinson
timbo81 05/Apr/09 2nd
with Danny
timbo81 05/Apr/09 2nd
howlingbaboon 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 09/Mar/09 Solo rpt
Hidden 03/Jan/09 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2009 -
tommcdonna 12/Oct/08 Lead dnf

Couldn't figure out how to pass the lowest chockstone.

with Richard Nuttall
petemeads 09/Oct/08 Solo
French Erick 28/Sep/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/08 2nd
mike_hough_uk 20/Jul/08 2nd
Theeni 13/Jul/08 Lead O/S
mattkemp70 ?/Jul/08 2nd
with Henry
dpmUK 24/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Dreamer
Hidden 22/Jun/08 2nd O/S
SteveMyatt 31/May/08 Lead O/S
with Ka Kei Ho; Barrie Peck
Ian Archer 31/May/08 2nd O/S
with CJ
Pilch 20/May/08 Solo O/S

Good fun and found some dropped gear, winner

with Graham
Andy Moles 16/May/08 Solo O/S
with -
dhthomson 10/May/08 2nd O/S
PeteH ?/May/08 Lead O/S

Classic gritstone HVD i.e. completely ridiculous strenuous thrutch!

spbond 21/Mar/08 Lead O/S
tobydunford 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Sarah Wysling
Hartley 27/Jan/08 Lead O/S
with claire burge
Hidden ??/2008 -
jcurley 12/Sep/07 Lead
with James
Stig 12/Sep/07 2nd rpt
with Joe
HeatherF 09/Sep/07 Solo
C@rwyn 09/Sep/07 Solo O/S
pad-rat 09/Aug/07 Lead
icnoble 04/Aug/07 Lead
with Eileen
liamoloughlin ?/Jul/07 Solo
Hidden 02/Jun/07 Solo rpt
scarybiker ?/Jun/07 2nd

horrible thrutching

cheeky 01/May/07 Lead O/S
with Andy Philipson
John Eley ?/May/07 Lead O/S
harryt 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Patrick
Jim Vach 10/Apr/07 Solo O/S
dannyboy83 08/Apr/07 Solo O/S
craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Solo
Graeme Hammond 21/Feb/07 2nd rpt
Hidden 21/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Dave Wearing 17/Feb/07 Lead
with rbracken
01wills 04/Sep/06 Solo O/S
colin milton 23/Jun/06 Solo
spqr 10/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Stefen
Graeme Hammond 15/Oct/05 TR O/S
with LSMC members
Nicos 21/Sep/05 Solo O/S
with solo
Stig 03/May/05 Lead O/S
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
sam coward ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Tim and Brigitte
Tobias at Home ??/2005 -
crossdressingrodney 13/Nov/04 2nd O/S
victim of mathematics 13/Nov/04 Lead O/S
burnt ?/Oct/04 Lead O/S
with Simon Lincoln
Apharri ?/Jul/04 Solo
with Dave Wharton
DerwentDiluted 29/Jun/02 Solo
Hidden ??/2002 -
Hidden ?/Aug/00 Solo
Gman ?/Jan/99 2nd O/S
with Dan
craig h 18/Nov/95 Solo O/S
Laramadness 18/Jun/95 Solo
Chris Ellis 25/May/95 Solo
Hidden ??/1995 Lead
Phil West 28/May/94 2nd O/S
with Steve Wild
Hidden 10/May/94 Solo
Scott McRae 07/Aug/93 Lead O/S


roncaves 08/Jul/92 2nd
BRUCESTRAC ??/1988 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
Iain Thow 14/Sep/86 Solo
johnny20whales 06/Jul/85 Solo
Chris Terrey ??/1979 Solo
Nigel Bond 18/Feb/77 Solo
Dave Musgrove 18/Apr/76 Solo
with Tim Leach, Dennis Gray
Dave Musgrove 10/Oct/71 Lead
mikej 12/Jun/66 Solo
with Ted Markham
Hidden 08/May/65 Solo
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High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
Votes cast 25
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
High 3b
Mid 3b
Low 3b
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 20
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set