Rockfax Description
Climb up into the back of the gloomy recess, then hand traverse the overhanging right wall, swinging round the arete to finish easily. Feels bold, though the tall can make quite a bit of progress with their feet still on the slabby wall - cheaters. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1958

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide), Brown & Whillans Stanage.

jim182 07/Oct Lead O/S
gar0cky 07/Oct Lead dnf

Didn't have the wings..

Hidden 29/Sep 2nd rpt
Hidden 29/Sep Lead RP
charlie broe 15/Sep Lead O/S
with Matt
Mike505 10/Sep Solo O/S

Wild and juggy!

Tom Redwood 09/Sep Lead O/S

How I didn't create either a brown or red stain down the crag after knocking the cam out I don't know.

Hidden 18/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Aug 2nd O/S
druss 11/Aug Lead O/S
poeter210 11/Aug 2nd β

Backed off previously, couple of moves but think it's pretty nails for the grade

with druss
Hidden 23/Jun AltLd
Wil Treasure 23/Jun AltLd
Hidden 16/Jun Lead O/S
MJS 16/Jun AltLd
Hidden 15/Jun Lead O/S
takaczapka 15/Jun 2nd O/S
with Jeremy
Hidden 09/Jun Lead O/S
Arty 29/May 2nd
with Hans groenenijk, David_Gledson
Hidden 27/May 2nd dog
foobar123 10/May 2nd β

Stanage VS challenge, route 19/36

Hidden 10/May Lead O/S
tprebs 05/May Solo O/S
Lee0901 22/Sep/17 2nd
josefft 24/Aug/17 Lead O/S
lukesmalley 06/Aug/17 2nd dog
with Derek Woo
ned_85 06/Aug/17 Lead
EllaMain 06/Aug/17 Lead
SamStrong93 06/Aug/17 2nd
with ned_85
Gordon W 06/Aug/17 2nd O/S

VS challenge 18, such a cool roof

with Rob Law
RobScarisbrick 05/Aug/17 2nd RP
Hidden 05/Aug/17 Lead
Hidden 05/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Alkis 05/Aug/17 2nd O/S

Route 20/36 of the VS Challenge Handed over the lead to Ali, to conserve energy.

gav 08/Jul/17 Lead RP

VS Challenge route 19/36. Start time 12:04. Up, gear in, back to the corner for a rest, repeat, go. Just need to get on with it; it't only 1 or 2 hard moves.

Hidden 08/Jul/17 2nd
Fellover 04/Jul/17 Lead O/S

VS Challenge Day 1 - Harder than the 5b version.

Hidden 04/Jul/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
K Mckay 02/Jul/17 Lead O/S

19th route of the Stanage VS Challenge

Hidden 01/Jul/17 Lead
Fraser hill-casey 26/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Route 20/36 very straightforward once having done Cleft Wing

with evenL
evenL 26/Jun/17 2nd O/S
tom_drysdale 09/Jun/17 2nd O/S
with CRead
CRead 09/Jun/17 Lead dog
Naomi.P 14/May/17 2nd dog

Awkward up to hand traverse. Then pumpy. Took an embarrassingly long rest on the cam midway along then finished it off. Could be extra fun if I committed and my arms would do it.

with Alex
w-watson 06/May/17 Lead O/S
J.E.Spencer 06/May/17 2nd dog
Flavio 25/Mar/17 Solo O/S
fatboyslimfast ??/2017 -
Zakko 27/Nov/16 Lead O/S

Got super pranged out, fingers had gone beyond freezing. cool route

Dan Wright 27/Nov/16 -


with Zakko
Mongoose 22/Oct/16 Lead RP

Accidentally cut loose onto just my right hand. Campused across. Not elegant, but impressed the watching Freshers!

Hidden 15/Oct/16 2nd
gav 15/Oct/16 Lead dog

Had given up by this point, so without extra motivation bottled properly committing. With my gear tested, I didn't really have an excuse, so pulled back on and finished it. Last route of the day, just as the sun was coming out.

Dizz 09/Oct/16 2nd β

Too sickly to lead this! Steep!

with andy brown
tom_lewis89 02/Oct/16 Lead dog

Faffed with cams then had to dangle for a moment. Def repeat.

adam clarke 25/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with James Hulme, Adam Lynch
lynchit 25/Sep/16 2nd dnf
Vilius A. 17/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
with Rob Powell
AshBash 31/Aug/16 Lead dnf
khalidq 30/Aug/16 Lead rpt
with Dan Vaj
Dan Vaj 30/Aug/16 2nd rpt
with khalidq
Hidden 24/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/16 2nd
MusicalMountaineer 06/Aug/16 Lead
James_Kendal 06/Aug/16 2nd

Took a huge but safe swing on second, after removing the gear on the traverse. Got it second time.

Barrie Schofield II 06/Aug/16 2nd
Hidden 14/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Andy Peak 1 07/Jul/16 Solo
spragglerocks 03/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with j_duds
ned_85 03/Jul/16 2nd
with Senna
Senna 03/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with ned_85
Hidden 03/Jul/16 2nd
djones66 26/Jun/16 Lead dog

Found this spmewhat desparate, especially for a VC 4c. Felt harder! Cold hands and lack of reach may have been factors. Safe though - good gear o the traverse. At one point ended up hanging entirely on one hand - not normal VS territory.

with Stve mc D
khalidq 28/May/16 Lead O/S

Flattering hence fun.

with Dan Vaj
Dan Vaj 28/May/16 2nd O/S
with khalidq
Mark Stevenson 24/May/16 Lead O/S
with Malcolm Max Streeton
ColinD 17/May/16 2nd
MSchobitz 16/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May/16 Lead
Jake Young 14/May/16 Solo rpt
Tim Rodgers 09/May/16 Lead
john lynch 22/Apr/16 Solo O/S
Mowglee 10/Apr/16 Lead O/S

VS challenge

with Rockley
Rockley 10/Apr/16 2nd
with Mowglee
paul79 01/Apr/16 Lead
Hidden 22/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
MischaHY 21/Mar/16 Solo O/S
Hidden 13/Mar/16 Lead rpt
Jake Young 13/Mar/16 2nd O/S

Stanage VS Challenge 20 out of 36.

Teappleby 25/Oct/15 2nd
Nick1812P 25/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/15 Solo O/S
Andrew Barker 10/Sep/15 Solo O/S
Ciderslider 07/Sep/15 Lead O/S

I thought the traverse part of this was good value for VS !!

with Ben
Hidden 16/Aug/15 Lead rpt
Lukem6 12/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with group day
Hidden 09/Aug/15 AltLd
John Higgs 08/Aug/15 Solo rpt
Maia 08/Aug/15 2nd O/S

quite intimidating but good holds - did it in 2 pitches bc the rope was getting caught

Jim Slater 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Maia
TobyA 01/Aug/15 2nd β

Tried leading first but backed off.

with TonyB
Hidden 01/Aug/15 Lead β
tebs 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Definitely cheated

HimTiggins 18/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with tebs
keitht 11/Jul/15 Lead

Hard moves at the start of the traverse.

dewiturton 11/Jul/15 2nd
with keitht
Andrew Abraham 21/Jun/15 2nd O/S

18 Some heroic moves to get to some super jugs

with Paul Deane
MYox 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/May/15 Lead
ChrisBrooke 23/May/15 Lead rpt
with Duncan Bell
soph 21/May/15 Solo O/S
morganator 21/May/15 Solo O/S
with soph
Jim Walton 10/May/15 Lead O/S

Take a deep breath...

with Chris M
Hidden 10/May/15 AltLd
Hidden 04/May/15 2nd O/S
daviesp2 04/May/15 2nd
kp64zl ?/May/15 Lead
with Steve OMC
steveb2006 07/Apr/15 Lead
with Mick F
Ropeboy 06/Mar/15 Lead

Probably stiff for the grade compared to other routes of the same grade. Poor feet and tricky traverse lead to a glorious swing round the arête to an easy finish.

robgixer ??/2015 -
Dronz 30/Nov/14 Lead O/S

With Dwains gear in the corner

Mike_Hayes 01/Nov/14 AltLd
with Mike Lea
Scott Anderson 28/Oct/14 Lead O/S

What a climb! Great once you know how!

with Ash
olliehales 21/Sep/14 2nd
John Higgs 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Off route. I bridged it.

Boy 19/Aug/14 Solo
anne Pickup 03/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Andy Peak 1 05/Mar/14 Solo

is it usual to find yourself hanging whith one hand on a vs

Alfie Conn ??/2014 -
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
JenRoberts 25/Sep/13 2nd dnf
with Lee
knighty 14/Sep/13 2nd

I came back and finished what I started! What a brutal hand traverse. Surely this is not a VS 4c? Are you supposed to bridge out of the cave??

Subwaycups 14/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/13 2nd O/S
leeoftroy ?/Sep/13 Lead O/S

very very nice joe brown route

Hidden 19/Aug/13 Solo O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 10/Aug/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/13 Solo rpt
Martin Bagshaw 20/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Johns legs currently not long enough for this climb

with John Andrews
Hoyes 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with sim0n
Sebastien Gastaud 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Anyes Varenne
Sebastien Gastaud 20/Feb/13 Lead
anyes varenne 20/Feb/13 2nd
knighty 13/Nov/12 Lead dnf

Easy up the crack, nut in the roof and a size 1 cam a metre along the traverse. Couldn't commit to the traverse on such a cold damp day. I have a feeling I'd find Cleft Wing an easier climb...

ChrisBrooke 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Monika Inkpen
Alex@home 05/Sep/12 Lead rpt

start of my second batch of 6 at about 9.40 so still averaging about 9 minutes per route for the first 18

with TonyM
mol 01/Sep/12 2nd
deacondeacon 20/Aug/12 Solo O/S
fatbuoybazza 21/Jul/12 2nd rpt

Felt a bit nicer this time..somehow..

with Zebra
Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jul/12 AltLd rpt
Ben Wolstenholme ?/Jul/12 -
Hidden 17/Jun/12 Lead
SecretSquirrel 17/Jun/12 Lead

rested due to faffing around placing gear when I should have just been getting on with it

adam carless 17/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Oceanic 17/Jun/12 2nd
R0bbie 13/Apr/12 2nd
with Taba
tom.e 23/Mar/12 Solo O/S
joe1joe1joe2 ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Leader Training with University

Peakpdr 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with P. Mitchell
sgl0jd ??/2012 -
adie84 ??/2012 -
Hidden 02/Oct/11 Lead dnf
geddicakes 11/Jun/11 2nd
waydan ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S

This climb gets one star but for me this is a three star climb.

with Peris, El Swiftos!
Jim Malo 29/May/11 Lead rpt
fatbuoybazza 29/May/11 2nd O/S

what a pile of crap, good lead fae jim.

Hidden 26/Apr/11 2nd
buxtoncoffeelover 26/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 20/Mar/11 2nd dnf
Jim Malo 06/Mar/11 Lead dog
with Putt
uphillnow ??/2011 -
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
Hidden 03/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Stig 30/Aug/10 Solo O/S

Cool. last route, home by midday

tri-nitro-tuolumne 21/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Rosie Morrison
Chris Craggs 15/Aug/10 2nd

Long legs sure help!

with Colin Binks
dan gibson 03/Aug/10 Solo rpt
IanMulvany 22/May/10 Lead O/S

swinging around the arete is just pure delight. I had a big smile on my face.

with Daniel Keller
Hidden 28/Apr/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 18/Apr/10 2nd O/S
lithos 18/Apr/10 Lead

good fun, well protected but steep, great jugs when you reach them

with Crofty
Hidden 05/Dec/09 Lead O/S
daveclarke5 17/Oct/09 Lead dog
with Stephen
sdht 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Andy Eustace
Joe Costello 16/Jun/09 Lead O/S
highrepute 16/Jun/09 Lead O/S
schaff 31/May/09 Lead O/S
with Mikkel
Monk 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Matt Hartgrove
Brown 03/Apr/09 Solo O/S
with Solo
BRUCESTRAC ??/2009 -
Sal37 ??/2009 Lead O/S
kingholmesy ??/2009 Solo O/S
Graeme Hammond 11/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Reaver2k 29/Jun/08 Lead dnf

Got up the groove easily, put in a relatively solid nut about a metre along the break whilst bridging strenuously, jammed with left hand and got a hold with my right hand, moved left hand along a bit and just couldn't read how to get over right without swinging off which I didn't really want to do! Had a bit of a mare really, was about to retreat, then realised it was lashing it down out of the cave anyway and that settled my decision. Will have to have another go, but that bloody wall is STEEP and practically no footholds, not sure how else to do it, maybe its a case of muddling my hands up and doing a bit of monkey swinging to the lip!

tom_1985 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Chris Thomas
dannyboy83 ?/Jun/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 29/May/08 Lead dnf
Mark Walter 10/May/08 Lead O/S
Eccentric 10/May/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/May/08 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
wahniel 09/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Stewart McConnell
Hidden 14/Jul/07 Lead dnf
Hidden 07/Jul/07 2nd rpt
SecretSquirrel 07/Jul/07 Lead O/S
stp 02/May/07 Solo O/S
craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Solo
caradoc 16/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with nick yapp
SteveM ??/2006 Lead
with Mike
Snowiew 27/Sep/03 Lead dnf

Failed Miserably! Another 'Must try when fresher...' climb!

beermonkey ?/Aug/03 2nd
with Mr Binks
Hidden ?/Jun/03 Lead
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
Ben Bransby 07/Jun/02 Solo
Pete Nugent 21/Apr/02 Lead
with Simon Trathen, Rob Hodgkinson
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/02 Lead
Hidden ??/2002 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
Gilgar ??/1999 Lead O/S
with Ryan Edwards, Duncan Barrack
Hidden 03/Apr/98 2nd
Roget 06/Jul/97 Solo O/S
Hidden 27/May/96 Lead O/S
nai ??/1995 Lead
Hidden 31/May/91 Lead
GordonHart ??/1986 Solo O/S
mikej 16/Oct/66 2nd dnf
with Keith Gregson
Hidden 20/May/65 TR
11 users have this on their wishlist
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 27
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 20
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set