8m.

Rockfax Description
Make a hard pull on tiny holds to reach the break and a hard finish on poor holds. f6A+ if you sneak off right. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Bancroft 1976

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List

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UserDateNotes
tetley 4 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Hope those who just do the start don't think they deserve the tick as half the battle is in finishing it on those steep breaks!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hope those who just do the start don't think they deserve the tick as half the battle is in finishing it on those steep breaks!
Fiend 4 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Hard start past a demoralising finger slot (finger size dependent), probably best dynamic. Rest is pretty nice and worth taking some gear for.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hard start past a demoralising finger slot (finger size dependent), probably best dynamic. Rest is pretty nice and worth taking some gear for.
Pythonist 2 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Dynamic/static with right/left hand from the obvious starting position... all good fun. Better counted as a bouldering problem than a route (i.e. finishing not worth it!)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Dynamic/static with right/left hand from the obvious starting position... all good fun. Better counted as a bouldering problem than a route (i.e. finishing not worth it!)
fenclimb 5 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I thought the move to get to the top was the crux
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I thought the move to get to the top was the crux
craig h 8 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I'd agree its more like 6a, seam to remember a crumbly little flake near the top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'd agree its more like 6a, seam to remember a crumbly little flake near the top.
Mark Davies PK 7 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I thought that move was more like 6A?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I thought that move was more like 6A?
Ropeboy 6 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A "fierce pull" or a dynamic move to a good break. The top is tricky but not that bad.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A "fierce pull" or a dynamic move to a good break. The top is tricky but not that bad.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
thetradlad 21 Sep Lead dog Got the start clean after a few tentative reaches and then down climbs. Fell off higher up; from second(?) break and wasn't down for cranking the first move again.
with Mark D
Got the start clean after a few tentative reaches and then down climbs. Fell off higher up; from second(?) break and wasn't down for cranking the first move again.
with Mark D
Mark D 21 Sep 2nd dog Epic fail
Epic fail
Jwatson 15 Jan Solo RH finish
RH finish
MysteriousCeorl 21 May, 2018 Lead dog
Toby 29 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S Pretty pumped at the top, felt hard!
with Nate
Pretty pumped at the top, felt hard!
with Nate
Lord_ash2000 14 Apr, 2018 Lead dnf Lower move was fairly easy, expecting that to be the crux until I got to the last move. Locked off and slapped the top 3 times, hitting nothing each time, eventually pumped out and had to lower down.
Lower move was fairly easy, expecting that to be the crux until I got to the last move. Locked off and slapped the top 3 times, hitting nothing each time, eventually pumped out and had to lower down.
Lord_ash2000 14 Apr, 2018 TR Having failed the on sight attempt I dropped a rope down it and sussed the move out by undercutting the break and reaching the top that way. The increasing warmth meant the route was getting horridly greasy by this point though so had no further interest in another lead attempt by this point.
Having failed the on sight attempt I dropped a rope down it and sussed the move out by undercutting the break and reaching the top that way. The increasing warmth meant the route was getting horridly greasy by this point though so had no further interest in another lead attempt by this point.
dr_botnik 14 Apr, 2018 Lead dog Mackie went up first but couldn't do the top. I had a go on his gear and lobbed off a slopey finish. Pulled back on and finished it off
Mackie went up first but couldn't do the top. I had a go on his gear and lobbed off a slopey finish. Pulled back on and finished it off
Flavio 14 Sep, 2017 Solo O/S
morganator 11 Aug, 2017 Lead
with Stan Halstead
with Stan Halstead
Hidden 24 Apr, 2016 Lead dnf
Hidden 24 Apr, 2016 2nd
Andy Moles 22 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
with Simon
with Simon
Sam McCarthy 17 Apr, 2016 Lead G/U
phil64 10 Apr, 2016 - great for the tall.... or good?
with phil baker, Andy Bowman
great for the tall.... or good?
with phil baker, Andy Bowman
Mihkel 3 Apr, 2016 Lead dnf Did the V3 start okay but then got pumped on the slopey breaks above and took several falls. The very final move is hard if done direct - I was goosed so skirted round to right after couple attempts. [Beta for next time: Take 2x blue cams, 2x red, 1x yellow and finish directly above the tiny iron rugosity handhold.]
Did the V3 start okay but then got pumped on the slopey breaks above and took several falls. The very final move is hard if done direct - I was goosed so skirted round to right after couple attempts. [Beta for next time: Take 2x blue cams, 2x red, 1x yellow and finish directly above the tiny iron rugosity handhold.]
melv 3 Apr, 2016 Lead dog
with Fi
with Fi
scarmichael 3 Apr, 2016 2nd
with Mihkel
with Mihkel
Jim Slater 25 Mar, 2016 Lead dnf Sussed out lower moves fairly straightforward, however could not make the final reach for the top, gave up!
with Maia
Sussed out lower moves fairly straightforward, however could not make the final reach for the top, gave up!
with Maia
Hidden 12 Mar, 2016 Lead
RFWilkie 10 May, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 May, 2015 Lead dog
Hidden 14 Apr, 2015 -
Smelly Fox 13 Apr, 2015 Sent O/S
FATBOYFAT ??, 2015 -
bencole ?Dec, 2014 Lead rpt
gazfellows 2 Nov, 2014 Lead
with gribble
with gribble
Ewan Russell 31 Oct, 2014 Solo O/S
with Myself!
with Myself!
Ewano 14 Sep, 2014 Solo O/S
WillDoyle 11 Jun, 2014 Lead
phil64 19 May, 2014 Solo
Gudge 7 May, 2014 Solo dnf Bouldered out start.
Bouldered out start.
Fragmod 3 May, 2014 Lead cruised it!!
cruised it!!
Hidden 14 Apr, 2014 2nd dog
Hidden 14 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
Albachoss 2 Apr, 2014 Lead dnf Dynamic moves unless you are >6ft2
with Andrew.W
Dynamic moves unless you are >6ft2
with Andrew.W
Andy Peak 1 4 Feb, 2014 Lead nice moves low down and awesome grit jaming in the braks at the top with a cheeky layaway horn to boot
with phill ukc
nice moves low down and awesome grit jaming in the braks at the top with a cheeky layaway horn to boot
with phill ukc
Andy Peak 1 4 Feb, 2014 Lead nice moves low down and awesome grit jaming in the braks at the top with a cheeky layaway horn to boot
with phill ukc
nice moves low down and awesome grit jaming in the braks at the top with a cheeky layaway horn to boot
with phill ukc
Gudge 31 Oct, 2013 Sent dnf Bouldered out start only.
Bouldered out start only.
Gudge 31 Oct, 2013 Sent dnf Bouldered out start only.
Bouldered out start only.
Gudge 8 Oct, 2013 Sent dnf Just bouldered out the start.
Just bouldered out the start.
Gudge 8 Oct, 2013 Sent dnf Just bouldered out start again !
Just bouldered out start again !
tsjx 8 Sep, 2013 Lead dnf Not what I expected. Neither of us could do the final move
with John Mc
Not what I expected. Neither of us could do the final move
with John Mc
sishaw 28 Aug, 2013 Solo Just start
Just start
Nick1812P 19 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S
Hidden 19 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Gudge 2 May, 2013 Lead dnf
with John Nuttall
with John Nuttall
jwhereat 14 Apr, 2013 TR β
PeteWilson 10 Apr, 2013 Lead dnf fell off last move. top is def the (reachy) crux
with Ric Elliot
fell off last move. top is def the (reachy) crux
with Ric Elliot
RichyBOYY 10 Apr, 2013 Lead
JoshT91 24 Feb, 2013 Solo dnf Got past the crux but bailed on the high slopers.
Got past the crux but bailed on the high slopers.
Hidden ??, 2013 -
dannyboy83 20 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S
with Leona
with Leona
Dave Turnbull, BMC 6 Oct, 2012 Lead
with Greg Cunningham
with Greg Cunningham
Jake Young 6 Oct, 2012 2nd O/S
with mark20
with mark20
mark20 6 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S
Haydn Jones 23 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
with pep
with pep
Whealiebob 19 Sep, 2012 Lead RP Bouldered out the first moves, dropped off, then led. Finished using the ramp on the right which I guess is off line...
Bouldered out the first moves, dropped off, then led. Finished using the ramp on the right which I guess is off line...
Milne 19 Sep, 2012 Lead dnf did the supposedly hard bit low down, then lowered off gear due to injury woes. top looked much harder than botton if taken direct without flake on right.
did the supposedly hard bit low down, then lowered off gear due to injury woes. top looked much harder than botton if taken direct without flake on right.
Boy 9 Sep, 2012 Lead Top deffo the crux if climbed direct
with Jon Coe
Top deffo the crux if climbed direct
with Jon Coe
Gudge ?Aug, 2012 Solo dnf
shed_hed 28 Jul, 2012 2nd O/S
with Alun Freem
with Alun Freem
Andy Clarke 21 Jul, 2012 Sent Highballed. Straight up. Thought start was technical crux - had to pop for the break at my height. Found top pumpy but more straightforward.
Highballed. Straight up. Thought start was technical crux - had to pop for the break at my height. Found top pumpy but more straightforward.
Hannes B 12 Jul, 2012 Solo off right
off right
Hidden 16 May, 2012 Solo O/S
deacondeacon 16 May, 2012 Lead O/S
Cake 6 May, 2012 Lead O/S
9fingerjon 6 May, 2012 2nd O/S
with Cake
with Cake
Hidden 20 Mar, 2012 Solo dnf
Ally Smith 14 Jan, 2012 Solo O/S
Tony Kartawick ??, 2012 -
Hidden 6 Nov, 2011 Sent
Hidden 29 Sep, 2011 Solo
Hidden 2 Jul, 2011 2nd O/S
john lynch 19 May, 2011 Sent
Alex@home 22 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S bouldered out the start before tying in and finishing. last move definitely harder than start
with Mel Holmes
bouldered out the start before tying in and finishing. last move definitely harder than start
with Mel Holmes
Graeme Hammond 22 Jan, 2011 Lead G/U 2nd attempt at the start, done above a mat, not 2nded but thanks to Jools for the belay :) Top as hard as the bottom if climbed direct.
2nd attempt at the start, done above a mat, not 2nded but thanks to Jools for the belay :) Top as hard as the bottom if climbed direct.
Hidden 18 Dec, 2010 Sent
Alex Winter 14 Nov, 2010 Lead Thought the crux was at the top.
Thought the crux was at the top.
Hidden 13 Nov, 2010 2nd dnf
Ross Davidson 6 Nov, 2010 Lead
with Steve Gibbs
with Steve Gibbs
Mr Wild ?Oct, 2010 Solo O/S
Stig 30 Aug, 2010 Sent O/S Padded
with Chris
Padded
with Chris
chrishedgehog 30 Aug, 2010 Solo O/S Traversed off when that became sensible, crux was nice though.
with James
Traversed off when that became sensible, crux was nice though.
with James
FlorianCastagne ?Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
liamoloughlin 24 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
geddicakes 24 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
with liamoloughlin, Matthew Parkin
with liamoloughlin, Matthew Parkin
Adam Potter 5 Jun, 2010 2nd
Dogmusher 9 May, 2010 Lead
with chris parson
with chris parson
drcorbasisgod 9 May, 2010 2nd O/S
Hidden ?Apr, 2010 Solo O/S
RossG ??, 2010 -
Seymore Butt ??, 2010 -
Hidden 28 Oct, 2009 2nd β
debsb 28 Oct, 2009 Lead
with loundsy
with loundsy
thomasadixon 28 Oct, 2009 Lead dog Found the top half nails, bottom half (supposed crux!) went fine.
Found the top half nails, bottom half (supposed crux!) went fine.
belay bunny turned bad 28 Oct, 2009 Lead
with Debbie, loundsy
with Debbie, loundsy
SteveOc 10 Oct, 2009 Lead dog
Hidden 5 Sep, 2009 Lead dnf
Tom Last 4 Jul, 2009 Solo O/S Finished right. The 'fierce pull' isn't fierce at all. Easy 5c is more like it than 6a. I can't climb 6a, let alone onsight it!
Finished right. The 'fierce pull' isn't fierce at all. Easy 5c is more like it than 6a. I can't climb 6a, let alone onsight it!
steveb2006 5 Apr, 2009 2nd dog Cant do the reachy moves at top, rest
with Roland Smith
Cant do the reachy moves at top, rest
with Roland Smith
Brown 1 Apr, 2009 Solo O/S
with Solo
with Solo
Katie Marshall 29 Mar, 2009 2nd Also clean onsight solo to 1st break.
with Martin, Graeme
Also clean onsight solo to 1st break.
with Martin, Graeme
Ram MkiV 6 Mar, 2009 Solo O/S quality little climb
with lee, al, guy
quality little climb
with lee, al, guy
Sal37 ??, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 15 Sep, 2008 Sent
Joe Costello 17 Aug, 2008 Solo O/S
with Matt and Liam
with Matt and Liam
tomg4807 20 Jun, 2008 TR
Hidden 9 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
Apharri ?Jun, 2008 2nd
with Andre Hedger
with Andre Hedger
galpinos 26 Apr, 2008 Lead O/S
with Mark
with Mark
lowersharpnose 1 Jan, 2008 Lead
Hidden ??, 2008 -
The old James turnbull ??, 2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??, 2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??, 2008 Lead
Hidden ??, 2008 -
Hidden 12 Dec, 2007 Sent
HimTiggins 26 May, 2007 2nd O/S
with Neil and Mark
with Neil and Mark
Mick B 24 Mar, 2007 2nd O/S
with Steve Pritchard
with Steve Pritchard
Strong Steve 24 Mar, 2007 Lead O/S
Pythonist 30 Aug, 2006 Sent rpt
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 2 Jul, 2006 Lead O/S
Pythonist 29 Jun, 2006 Solo O/S
with Chris Jennions
with Chris Jennions
Hidden 1 Jun, 2006 Solo O/S
Hidden 22 Apr, 2006 Lead dog
nathanmanc ?Mar, 2006 Solo O/S
Ian Broome 2 May, 2005 Lead
with Tom
with Tom
Gus 16 Apr, 2005 Solo
with ben rouse
with ben rouse
Hidden 12 Mar, 2005 2nd
Hidden ??, 2005 -
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 -
simon kimber ?Nov, 2003 Solo
with Robin Wilmshurst-Smith
with Robin Wilmshurst-Smith
cem 21 Sep, 2003 2nd
with Liam Mark
with Liam Mark
mattwyles1 ?May, 2003 Solo β
Hidden 21 Apr, 2003 Solo O/S
Paz ?Apr, 2003 Lead
with MH
with MH
Hidden 21 Sep, 2002 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2002 -
Mark Riley ?May, 2000 2nd
with Richard Ibberson
with Richard Ibberson
Ropeboy 16 Apr, 2000 Solo
Hidden ??, 2000 -
Mark Davies PK ??, 2000 Lead O/S
Ben Bransby ??, 1999 -
Mick King 19 Oct, 1996 Solo O/S
RossG123 ??, 1996 Solo
roncaves 23 Jul, 1995 2nd
with Ian Smith
with Ian Smith
Hidden 23 Apr, 1995 2nd
nai ??, 1995 Solo
Stoney Boy 16 Jan, 1994 Solo O/S
crossleysm ??, 1994 Solo c.94
c.94
David Slater ?Aug, 1993 Lead
with Andrew Simon
with Andrew Simon
andybirtwistle 25 Jul, 1992 Solo
steve taylor ?Jul, 1991 Solo
with jon jones
with jon jones
Roget 23 Jun, 1991 Solo O/S
jfletcher 4 Nov, 1990 Solo O/S
with LUMC meet
with LUMC meet
Tom V ??, 1990 Solo
goi.ashmore 8 Oct, 1989 Lead O/S
with Dave Forster
with Dave Forster
Steve Clegg 21 Jun, 1987 -
with Brian W
with Brian W
Brian Wilderspin 21 Jun, 1987 -
Dave Musgrove 20 Aug, 1986 AltLd
Hammy 26 Apr, 1986 Solo
GordonHart ??, 1986 Solo O/S
Hidden 2 Jul, 1985 Solo
John Marsland 8 Jun, 1985 Solo
Hidden ??, 1985 Lead
Hidden 2 May, 1984 Solo
stp 3 Mar, 1984 Solo O/S Good little fingery problem
Good little fingery problem
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 34
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 30
Style of Ascent
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Bouldered
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set