UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

10m.

Rockfax Description
The wall to the left of the corner cracks has a fingery start using a thin diagonal crack. Continue up the wall passing a useful lump to a reachy finish. © Rockfax

FA. Ray Burgess early 1950s.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Stanage HVS Challenge

Feedback

User Date Notes
Blake 2 Dec, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Great one for the solo circuit… solid 5c move at the start, classic grit break yarding afterwards.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great one for the solo circuit… solid 5c move at the start, classic grit break yarding afterwards.
Stanley 5 Feb, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Great fun. Found the start the crux and then it eases off as you get higher.
Show beta
βeta: Great fun. Found the start the crux and then it eases off as you get higher.
Jon Stewart 6 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: maybe the best of these short-but-mean hvs's round here: technical and sustained right to the top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: maybe the best of these short-but-mean hvs's round here: technical and sustained right to the top.
Ropeboy 5 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A tricky/bouldery start leads into good climbing between breaks to the top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A tricky/bouldery start leads into good climbing between breaks to the top.

Logged Ascents

454 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Popular

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 55
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 53
Votes cast 52
Style of Ascent
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
Dogged
Ground Up
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Conclusor

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Ravensdale)

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