Rockfax Description
Climb through the overhangs to a ledge then, from the left-hand end of this (low runners) step awkwardly up and left (much harder for the short who might claim an E2 5c) to reach a sloping ledge on Mississippi Variant. Finish up this. © Rockfax

FA. Bill Birch 1968

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s.

Hidden 05/Nov/17 Lead O/S
Rob_Morris1996 05/Nov/17 2nd O/S


with Blake Williams
Ewan Russell 03/Nov/17 Lead O/S
with Halla
Hidden 25/Oct/17 Lead O/S
RM199 25/Oct/17 2nd rpt
MNC 15/Oct/17 Lead O/S
with Alex
LBrown 19/Sep/17 Solo
davkeo 15/Sep/17 Lead G/U

Didn't have the wingspan to statically reach the ledge (which would make this straightforward). So resorted to the much harder lefthand option. 5c move & involved a slap for the ledge where I didn't quite get the sticking point. Was a nice fall. Lowered & repeated the move but this time connected properly with the break which isn't fantastic. This move definitely makes for a more exciting experience. V. Good climb.

Michael Morrell 15/Sep/17 Lead β

Failed on it before, flashed it this time.

mrphilipoldham 01/Sep/17 2nd O/S

Reachy slab move almost had me.. kudos to Michael for the lead on in!

colin milton 01/Sep/17 2nd
paulsross 20/Aug/17 2nd
with Phil Biglands
morganator 11/Aug/17 Lead
with Stan Halstead
timrooker 04/Aug/17 Lead rpt
with Ben White
Hidden 04/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Michael Morrell 04/Aug/17 2nd
Alison Cairns 22/Jul/17 2nd dog

Well hard for the short - if you can't span to the break from the good flake undercut use of a tiny left hand crimp then a balancey reach for a pebble in the break was required. Finished direct as for Orinoco - hard and a bit dirty.

with Alice T, hilary
Ben Bransby 19/Jul/17 Solo
LMS 16/Jul/17 Lead O/S

one really hard to great gear but still took ages over it and wasn't sure it would work! fortunately it did so chuffed to bits to finish it :-) great route

climberchristy 16/Jul/17 2nd rpt

Lynn's first E1 onsight.

with LMS
Dale ?/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Liam
Will Webb 25/Jun/17 Lead
with Alex
AF Webb 25/Jun/17 2nd
samkat 21/Jun/17 2nd
WillCass 21/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Sameer
Nigel Coe 20/Jun/17 2nd
with Amnon
ned_85 13/Jun/17 2nd
with Joe White
tebs 09/Jun/17 Lead rpt
with Adam, Tim
Hidden 03/Jun/17 Lead dnf
ndm 03/Jun/17 2nd
tsjx 03/Jun/17 Lead
with Norbert
daveclarke5 28/May/17 2nd
with Stephen
dewiturton 23/May/17 Lead
with keitht
keitht 23/May/17 2nd
Neil McA 22/May/17 2nd rpt
with Dave Sykes, Andy Perkins
jing 13/May/17 2nd dnf

Was secretly hoping Gary would bail. He didn't bail and did the climb impressively. I was then absolutely destroyed on this climb. Loved the initial roof section, but dogged the rest. Didn't get the reachy move (pulled on rope) so this is a dnf.

with Gary W
garywong 13/May/17 Lead O/S
timrooker 07/May/17 Lead rpt
with Carla
CarlaJG 07/May/17 2nd
Hidden 23/Apr/17 Lead rpt
beni 22/Apr/17 2nd
bencole 22/Apr/17 Lead rpt
andrzej kierzek 20/Apr/17 Lead β

I did crux onsight. However, I climbed Variant Direct before. Given that, I count it as flash (with beta)

with Tara
Gambit 30/Mar/17 2nd rpt
Flavio 25/Mar/17 Lead O/S
Jim Slater 25/Mar/17 Lead rpt
Afell 11/Mar/17 2nd
marcus_goff 11/Mar/17 Lead O/S
with Andy
Tom Pillow 11/Mar/17 Lead O/S

easy but damp

with Luke Richardson
Strife 24/Feb/17 2nd β
with Jack
JackM92 24/Feb/17 Lead O/S

One 5b move above bomber gear. But it took a while to figure the move out! Really good route and would make a great first E1 for someone.

Hannes B 04/Feb/17 2nd
with Aidan, Phil
Hidden ??/2017 Lead
nuts and bolts ??/2017 -
Guy Bennell ??/2017 Lead
pete1993 23/Oct/16 2nd rpt

looked at going very direct at the top but it looks nails so slunk off right

with Jamie
CraigOsborne 23/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Felt straightforward after having a bit of a struggle on dark continent

Hidden 23/Oct/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 20/Oct/16 Lead O/S
mattlyons 19/Oct/16 2nd
GeorgiePorgie1 15/Oct/16 2nd

Bril lead by Col! Hard, but awesome route. Seconded clean so super happy!

with Jim Broomhead
jimbonfire 15/Oct/16 2nd
Nigel Bond 15/Oct/16 Lead
samrad 15/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Swain
JDSwain 15/Oct/16 2nd O/S
with Sam Radcliffe
Hidden 15/Oct/16 2nd O/S
Col Kingshott 15/Oct/16 Lead O/S
dr_botnik 10/Oct/16 2nd rpt
with Mike W
Mike W 10/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Markheighton 04/Oct/16 2nd
Alex_Derbyshire 04/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Iain_L_32 02/Oct/16 Lead
bryan61 25/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with andy
thejunglist 24/Sep/16 Lead O/S

felt stern for a little man like me!

with Timmy G
Hidden 20/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Katsmiff 10/Sep/16 Lead dnf

So annoying. Took a load of skin off my finger falling. I don't know how someone of my height (5,5) can do this...really would love to see how!?!

Rafal Malczyk 10/Sep/16 2nd dnf
Hidden 31/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Neil McA 29/Aug/16 2nd rpt
with Jake McAdie
RKirke 14/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/16 2nd O/S
mikespooner 14/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Stroppy 14/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Nick205228 ?/Aug/16 -
teamvix 31/Jul/16 2nd
with Dad
therat 23/Jul/16 Lead
pdamann 22/Jul/16 TR

Clean, so need to come back and lead it.

Anne Gumbley 10/Jul/16 2nd dog
Anne Gumbley 10/Jul/16 2nd dog
markfairbank 10/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/16 2nd rpt
Hidden 30/Jun/16 Lead O/S
martinbettridge06 22/Jun/16 Lead rpt
with Alan parker
No? Yes! 18/Jun/16 Lead

Enjoyable but crux reachy move out of keeping with rest and desperate for short ?

with Shazza65
shazza65 18/Jun/16 2nd dog

Couldn't do reachy move. Rest was lovely climbing

with Nigel
Hidden 02/Jun/16 Lead
Hidden 30/May/16 -
James Oswald 23/May/16 Lead O/S
with Malcolm Scott
harry_lewis 20/May/16 Solo O/S
Droyd 07/May/16 Lead O/S
with Peter
Gympaul 16/Apr/16 Lead
with chris
Hidden 13/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Andrew Abraham 13/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Paul Deane
Hidden 03/Apr/16 2nd
cem 03/Apr/16 Lead rpt
georgenvk 03/Apr/16 2nd O/S
with cem
scottcoates 03/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with williap
scarmichael 03/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with MSD
williap 03/Apr/16 2nd
AxelC 02/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Slyven 02/Apr/16 2nd O/S
with Axel
pete1993 25/Mar/16 Lead O/S

low in the grade but brilliant climbing and alright holds after the long reach

with Tim
timrooker 25/Mar/16 2nd dog
williap 13/Mar/16 2nd
Hidden 12/Mar/16 Lead O/S
john lynch 07/Dec/15 Lead O/S

the driest of the 3 damp routes, good to be back on the grit :)

with ed luke
dan_o_b 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S
JoeFoster59 10/Oct/15 2nd O/S

Really cool slabby exposed moves very interesting moved as quickly and efficiently as possible, one of the best seconds I've done

Hidden 03/Oct/15 2nd
Technoguile 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/15 2nd
Hidden 22/Sep/15 Lead dnf
quickdrawmcraw 19/Sep/15 2nd
with claire, liz osbourn
Hidden 19/Sep/15 2nd
spragglerocks 13/Sep/15 2nd rpt
nick ferro 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Oli Birkill
Gympaul 13/Sep/15 Lead
David Kay 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Gambit 27/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Richardlake 15/Aug/15 Lead dnf

Tried a few variations on the crux and couldn't reach high enough. Really big move either way you do it. Would definitely be 5c for me if i could make it.

Kemics 09/Aug/15 Lead O/S

As a lanky person this felt very easy but was still a stretch. Though was surprised how poor the hold after the reach was. The rest of the climbing is an enjoyable romp on good rock. Had great fun!

with Mel
ned_85 09/Aug/15 2nd
Senna 09/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Ned
xiangoh 02/Aug/15 2nd
leon 31/Jul/15 Lead rpt

Same again, crux moves on e1 not to bad but found the hvs crux (easier) a little committing.

fabricio 31/Jul/15 2nd
with leon
Mowglee 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Ali
Dexter JW 18/Jul/15 TR O/S

Not a problem on TR. Would have been a gnarley swing at a one point.

with Popz
Graham Booth 15/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Massive reach for me....just got the edge of a sloper and was a tenuous match! I'm taking the E2

Hidden 16/Jun/15 Lead β
HazelMacLean 16/Jun/15 2nd O/S

Nice variation, a slightly harder crux if you're short but not too bad. Got a cheeky finger lock in.

Aline 08/Jun/15 2nd O/S

Great route, lots of rests and good moves. Cruxy for the shorter ones, nice to work out.

with Phil
Hidden 07/Jun/15 2nd rpt
boulderholder 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Q.Estelles 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Tom
Lukem6 30/May/15 Lead O/S
with andgy g
DanOsb 23/May/15 Lead

On swifts gear after he caught some airtime.

with swift
mynyddresident 23/May/15 Lead O/S
with KP
Hidden 20/May/15 2nd O/S
Wil Treasure 16/May/15 Lead
with Everyone!
chiverstom 16/May/15 Lead O/S
Nick Wallis 15/May/15 2nd O/S
with Tom Holdsworth
Karlos 13/May/15 2nd O/S
fuzzysheep01 13/May/15 Lead O/S
Scooter Young 10/May/15 Lead
the power 08/May/15 Lead rpt


with neil
luke glaister 04/May/15 Lead O/S

Really good. Hight feet. Lay away and reach. Top traverse is brilliant to. 3***s

casey johns 04/May/15 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/May/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/15 2nd
Colin Scotchford 18/Apr/15 Lead
Hidden 09/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/15 Lead O/S
MDR61 07/Apr/15 2nd dog

couple of goes at the reachy bit

with Luca
LJC 07/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Mark
oread 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S
NickyC 04/Apr/15 2nd
with Oli Read
Hidden 27/Mar/15 Lead β
ashtond6 13/Mar/15 Lead rpt


NOG ??/2015 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 06/Dec/14 Lead O/S
with Roisin
Hidden 02/Nov/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Oct/14 2nd
dr_botnik 29/Oct/14 Lead rpt
the power 29/Oct/14 Lead rpt
with Andy, rob
fabricio 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with lee
Colin Scotchford 05/Oct/14 2nd
Hidden 05/Oct/14 2nd O/S
M_Robinson 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S
chrismadar 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Not sure if actually difficult or making a meal of it but felt really hard. Brilliant climb though.

benkelsey 24/Sep/14 2nd O/S

not too long a reach

with Shaun Humphreys, Fran hammond
shaunhumphreys 24/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Really cool route!

mark4344 12/Sep/14 2nd
with derek, Matt Payne
pete40 07/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 31/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Ash Sayers 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Jaysquared69 31/Aug/14 2nd
with Olly P
ChrisBrooke 22/Aug/14 2nd

Always a favourite

with Duncan Bell
Jake Young 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Ondrea, Alex Banks
Longsufferingropeholder 03/Aug/14 Lead
with C May
C May 03/Aug/14 2nd
with Tim
Matt Shepherd 28/Jul/14 2nd
Hidden 28/Jul/14 Lead O/S
arthur_de_briton 05/Jul/14 Lead
with tim wilkinson, cat mckenna
Tim W 05/Jul/14 2nd rpt
with Cat, Matthew Thomson
ralphio 04/Jul/14 Lead O/S

My first E1 lead. Felt easier than the VS I did afterwards. Crux is technical but well protected.

with Nik
Hidden 01/Jul/14 TR
Thinker01 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Nice route especially the hand traverse back right at the top.

RFWilkie 29/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Mark
catblack 06/Jun/14 2nd

another reachy route! really good climbing all the way.

with tim
tim.fairhall 06/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Hui
Hidden 01/Jun/14 2nd dog
Kirill 31/May/14 Lead β
with Mari Ijas
cem 31/May/14 Lead rpt
wyzfen 31/May/14 2nd O/S
K Mckay 31/May/14 Lead dnf

This route had my absolute all but I had to accept I was just too short to push past the slab. This is not a reasonable excuse so I'll be back again to have a stab at it.

Hidden 30/May/14 Lead
Hidden 30/May/14 Lead O/S
Vincej 30/May/14 2nd
with Nevil
BTphonehome 14/May/14 Lead O/S
with Matt
Matt_C9716 14/May/14 2nd
Neil R 05/May/14 Lead
with Ian
Radical-G 04/May/14 Lead rpt
wazzalad20 03/May/14 Lead O/S

Cracking route, found it tough for the grade, the crux from the HVS at the top felt harder than the E1 crux. Had to try on this one:-)

with anna henshaw
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/14 2nd
Hidden 04/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Mar/14 AltLd
robgixer 11/Mar/14 Lead O/S
amccann 11/Mar/14 Solo O/S
Radical-G 09/Mar/14 2nd β
WillDoyle 05/Mar/14 2nd
Goodstuff 05/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Brilliant, varied route- should get 3 stars. Found the crux quite puzzling.

the power 01/Mar/14 2nd rpt
with Andy
Hidden 01/Mar/14 Lead
Andypeak ?/Mar/14 2nd
vanderz 10/Feb/14 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 02/Jan/14 Lead rpt
with Greg Rimmer
Hidden ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
ashtond6 01/Dec/13 Lead O/S
alp79 01/Dec/13 2nd dog

Very reach dependant!

marconi 28/Nov/13 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 07/Nov/13 Solo O/S
with Jonny P
Andy Moles 17/Oct/13 2nd
with Ferdia
ferdia 17/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Marti999 01/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Debbie
Marti999 01/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Debbie
Lotoni ?/Oct/13 2nd
with kuz
Hidden 15/Sep/13 Lead rpt
islandlynx ?/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Well protected climb with a mix of moves. Good route. Second E1

with Amy
stuart34 21/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 19/Aug/13 2nd
Wayne S 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
mat cooper 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
ChrisBrooke 03/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with Kerry
joese7en 26/Jul/13 -
the power 22/Jul/13 Lead O/S

shiting myself most of the time

with charlie, rob
dr_botnik 22/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Found this quite tough, couldn't make the long reach with my right hand in the good hold, found I had to ignore this all together and press against an undercut crimp and step up in tension, and I'm not even that short!

with Charlie, Phil Taylor
tsjx 21/Jul/13 2nd
with Ian
buxtoncoffeelover 20/Jul/13 Lead
adam.butler.dsfc 20/Jul/13 2nd O/S
freudy_love 03/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Pete Macpherson
davewsargent 30/Jun/13 2nd
davewsargent 30/Jun/13 2nd
jshields 30/Jun/13 Lead

Great route hard 5b for shorties, well protected.

Hidden 22/Jun/13 2nd dog
Jim Slater 22/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Maia
RUDIN.J.D.H 17/Jun/13 2nd O/S
kyaizawa 17/Jun/13 Lead O/S
treg 16/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Very pleasant all the way, since I led it last week.

with Patrick
Hardcore Pat 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Matt Tregellas
tebs 09/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Tim
treg 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Nice route. Enjoyable through the initial roofy bit, then the E1 crux, followed by the crux of the HVS. Very hot and sweaty weather didn't help with the poor slopers.

with Bird
petegruf 05/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with patrick h
Hidden 03/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Oliver Houston 19/May/13 Lead O/S
with Sarah
sarahsuth 19/May/13 2nd
Pilch 05/May/13 2nd O/S
bencole ?/May/13 Lead rpt
Hannes B 20/Apr/13 Solo
Hidden 20/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 13/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 13/Apr/13 Lead rpt
saffy ??/2013 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 -
AlanPedrick ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 Lead RP
Hidden 14/Nov/12 Lead β
Hidden 14/Nov/12 Lead β
seanlikeskites 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Oct/12 2nd dog
Hidden 20/Oct/12 2nd dnf
Dave Turnbull, BMC 06/Oct/12 2nd
with Greg Cunningham
thetradlad 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Harry Thorpe 06/Oct/12 2nd O/S

Looooong move.

Haydn Jones 23/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with pep
Jordan B 17/Sep/12 Solo O/S
John Elliott 09/Sep/12 2nd
with Doug Allen
riff156 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
quickdrawmcraw 08/Sep/12 2nd
with steve
Matt Cooke 18/Aug/12 2nd β
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jul/12 2nd rpt
Hidden 12/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hannes B 10/Jul/12 2nd
with Aidan
AlexxelA 28/May/12 Lead O/S

Been building up to this for quite a while, was great to get it done. Initial overhangs were fun, the main move was great, had to wiggle my hand up from pebble to pebble. Got a bit pumped on the upper hvs section, but gear was great throughout. Much appreciated advice from below helped with the ropework and protection.

with Sean, Stephen Connelly
martroberts 23/May/12 Lead O/S

E2 5c for me (170cm/5'6"). Up and down 5 times before committing to the massive reach to the poor slopers. Found an E3 6b easier at Birchens easier!Partly due to a really hot day. Brilliant route all the same though

marcoleptic 12/May/12 2nd

Long Stretch to poor sloper

with Doug, Alan
Twisty 12/May/12 Lead rpt
with Tim Brown
Nick F Smith 05/May/12 Lead O/S
with Garry Smith
garry smith 05/May/12 Lead O/S
cheeky 02/May/12 2nd rpt
mark4344 02/May/12 Lead O/S

had the reach to find the crux ok. need to commit though. great varied route.

with Matt Payne
Theeni 28/Apr/12 Lead
with Mike Kennedy
chrisbussell 11/Apr/12 Lead
with Tim O'Neill
Hidden 10/Apr/12 2nd
marcduhig 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S

1 hard move

with Sexy Liz, Andrew
lizzie789 31/Mar/12 2nd dog

bit of a long reach

Hidden 30/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/12 Lead
louby 24/Mar/12 2nd
chris_B 24/Mar/12 Lead
Jackwd 21/Mar/12 2nd O/S

Made me really tired, nice first section and the slab was quite committing! The top isn't easy either! Good lead Charley!

valentinesbabe 21/Mar/12 TR dog

Charley's awesome lead. Found this really hard for the short...was all fine other than the crux move up the slab which took me a million attempts before I managed it, but manage it I did. Step up with virtually nothing for the end it was all about getting the feet sorted out on the block, very balancy and hard for shorties.

charley 21/Mar/12 Lead O/S

The E1 part was onsight however I led the HVS finish last year. Got a bit scared, had a little cry but then in the end everything went okay (if you don't count the swearing).

with JackD, Ange
deacondeacon 20/Mar/12 Lead

Had climbed one of the other mississippi's previously.

Hidden 20/Mar/12 2nd β
Steve Waters, Mynydd 14/Mar/12 2nd

Discovered the high horizontal flake hold on the rigthtwards traverse this time !

with Richard Waltham
cem 11/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Falko 11/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with Al W.
jake-jones 11/Mar/12 Lead β
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Chi Cheng 11/Mar/12 2nd O/S

Felt E2 5c on the second. Had a hard time spanning between holds

Fragmod 05/Mar/12 2nd
Bruce Houston ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S
sarah hawker 26/Feb/12 2nd dog
with Bryn Roberts, Neil Morbey, Sarah Follmann
Ollie B 14/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Freezing cold but dry

with S.Bennett
Wyrdwired ??/2012 2nd
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Hidden 21/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Nov/11 2nd O/S
timmsy 26/Oct/11 Lead
with rachel yorksclimbers
TRFrost 26/Oct/11 2nd β
with R. Timms
bigdrew 26/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Mark R
Rachel S 26/Oct/11 2nd
with Rich T
theotherpetehill 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
JLS 14/Oct/11 Lead dog

With one fall at crux, silly mistake.

with Jacqui
Phill Mitch 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with LMC
Si Croft 01/Oct/11 Lead
with Bernie, JD
sophiecb 24/Sep/11 AltLd
with Chad
Chad123 24/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

long reach for sure, but was running up it in fading light!

fatbuoybazza 01/Sep/11 Lead O/S
andyjirvin 01/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Enjoyed, quite varied climbing. The crux is awkward but getting feet up and using as much core tension as possible does wonders. The upper bit is quite tricky too, though well protected and there are a couple of good holds that aren't obvious at first. Very happy with this one.

andysroom 19/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Lizzie
stvredmond 19/Aug/11 Lead

quality!!. dont see how this could be E2 5c for the short. im pretty short and it felt fine. brilliant gear right by you.

Helnorris 19/Aug/11 2nd
Nigel Bond 17/Aug/11 TR
with Bern Hardman
tmawer 14/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Jaime Robertson
Ahab 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Colin Scotchford 31/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden 28/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jul/11 2nd rpt
allyrocke 13/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Reminded me of Morrisons Redoubt.

The Reaper 06/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/11 2nd dog
shouter ?/Jul/11 Lead
belay bunny turned bad 17/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with loundsy
Hidden 17/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Ben Harper 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
spragglerocks 11/Jun/11 2nd dog

Hard if you are short!

Hoyes 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
gidmord 11/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
andybirtwistle 03/Jun/11 Lead
keith Lonsdale 03/Jun/11 2nd
tebs 29/May/11 Lead rpt
with Luke
Alistair Corbett 28/May/11 2nd
with Al
al123 28/May/11 Lead rpt


Jim Slater 21/May/11 2nd O/S
wi11 21/May/11 2nd
with Frank C
Dan Lane 08/May/11 Lead O/S

didnt find this very hard as i could almost reach past the crux move. some of the pockets to the left were well chalked, but this seems a very hard way to do the move.

busdriver 08/May/11 2nd
jcurley 06/May/11 2nd O/S
thekendo 04/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/11 2nd
psychicbread 29/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Max
ChrisBrooke 26/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with Duncan Bell
Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Will_Maxwell 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Rafael Pena
Hidden 20/Apr/11 2nd
Martin Haworth 17/Apr/11 Lead rpt
shaun walby 17/Apr/11 2nd dog

Much harder for the short

with Martin Haworth
Hidden 16/Apr/11 2nd O/S
davidgent 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Dom Southgate
jonnybull 14/Apr/11 Lead
with Joe P
Goose4 11/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Sam Davis
mtempest 09/Apr/11 2nd
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
Steve Waters, Mynydd 09/Apr/11 Lead

Managed the crux on about the 6th attempt reaching up with the left hand. Bomber cam in the right hand hold. Mike followed up but reached up with his right hand with his left hand on the crimp. His way seemed to me to be a more committing and possibly unreversible move. Still found the top section tricky.

mattorford 08/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Jonathan Hall 27/Mar/11 2nd
disturbed_one51 27/Mar/11 Lead
with Wee man
Hidden 22/Mar/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 24/Feb/11 Lead O/S
PeteH 10/Feb/11 Lead O/S

Drying off.

joese7en 08/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
uphillnow ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
rurp ??/2011 Lead O/S
whitehouse_rhys ??/2011 Lead O/S
probso ??/2011 -
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
Hidden 20/Oct/10 Lead O/S
ojp 17/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with Dave
Dave Foster 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Nice long move off the undercut.

with Si
tatz45 11/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 09/Oct/10 Lead
with Rachel Briggs
pie_eater_pete 07/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Stig 02/Oct/10 2nd rpt
with Goi
Hidden 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/10 2nd O/S
tigertim 12/Sep/10 2nd
with al123
al123 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with tim
Cake 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Not hard, but good. I would call it HVS 5a

with Matt
Hardonicus 04/Sep/10 2nd O/S

Seconded this rather than the non-direct due to the way the rope fell. One move wonder, but nice.

with Luke Donaldson, Alex Thompson
Hidden 27/Aug/10 2nd β
Nick1812P 27/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Jamie
Guy Atkinson 28/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Ed morris 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Martin
leon 20/Jun/10 Lead rpt

Crux moves on the e1 felt easier than I remember. Crux moves when you get onto the hvs harder than I remember!

with Chris Munton
Hidden 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
petegruf 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with chris b
davidwright 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
jolyon.cohen 12/Jun/10 2nd dog
pabbage 02/Jun/10 Lead O/S
freddieneame10 ?/Jun/10 Lead O/S

long move on the slab. A strong right leg is useful!

Hidden ?/Jun/10 2nd
Adam Potter 16/May/10 2nd
tebs 09/May/10 2nd rpt

One of the best of the grade at Stanage. Crux was harder than i remembered!

with Luke, Jon
Hidden ?/May/10 Lead O/S
mark20 27/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Apr/10 2nd
Will Homoky 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S

I made noises, which seemed to help.

with Tom Hindson
Hidden 23/Apr/10 Lead
NorthernRock 23/Apr/10 2nd

with Tuze. Reachy crux

duzinga 23/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with ian
JPGR 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
BrettB ?/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden 27/Mar/10 Lead O/S
31770 27/Mar/10 2nd O/S
nadeem 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S

One move wonder. not fantastic

nepsoi999 07/Mar/10 2nd O/S
with nadeem
cymjt ??/2010 -
Brown 15/Nov/09 Solo O/S
with Solo
Hidden 07/Nov/09 Lead
Byronius Maximus 07/Nov/09 Lead O/S

This would probably get three stars on any other crag. Two is probably right for Stanage though!

with Lauren Foster
Hidden 02/Nov/09 -
Neil Pacey 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Stanley, Tanya Savage
richardhopton 23/Sep/09 2nd
with James_D
James_D 23/Sep/09 Lead O/S

First E1!

with Richard
Twisty 14/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Nigel Stock
Nick1812P 07/Sep/09 2nd RP
raptorheli 07/Sep/09 Lead O/S

was just below the crux for about 45 mins,jamed my right foot in stepped up using left hand crimp and then went for the slopping break with right hand,nice climb(if your short its a long reach)

with jamie
tebs 05/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Easier than The Link for sure. Very cruxy, one reachy 5b move then it's all over. Still a good route though.

with David, Rach, Tim
Ketu 30/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 30/Aug/09 2nd rpt

found the crux of this easier than the moves going out right under the overhang once you have joined mississippi variant

with Rob
Pete Sanger ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with jamie
Chris Craggs 21/Jun/09 2nd
with Dave Spencer
Reaver2k 20/Jun/09 2nd rpt

Followed Mike up this again, couldn't do it the first time, got it second attempt, it really is at my absolute stretch, wouldn't be happy leading it as I could so easily go wrong if I grab the wrong part its quite hard to recover from.

with Michael Watson
pog100 20/Jun/09 2nd dog
gnc760 16/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with James Kay
Hidden 16/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/May/09 Lead dog
Tony Holdsworth 29/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with James Bailey
thomasadixon 24/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Alan
Reaver2k 24/Apr/09 2nd O/S

Nice, some tricky moves. Found the bottom bit fine, then the reach up a LONG way, but once you get your weight right its just about okay. Had to move further over left than I had thought in order to move up and right, odd. And it doesn't finish there. Some quite unexpected sustained moves lead up and right. Nice.

Adam Booth 22/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Mike Whiteside
jameshall 21/Apr/09 2nd
with Jon
Shaw Brown 11/Apr/09 2nd
with Loz
cem 05/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with Kirill Spiridonov, Pete Horn
Kirill 05/Apr/09 2nd
Sankey 04/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Luke
Hidden 01/Mar/09 2nd
Hidden 01/Mar/09 Lead O/S
matt.jj ?/Mar/09 Lead
Dave Mahon ?/Mar/09 2nd

Matt's first E1. Only one HVS to his name (now downgraded to VS) so very brave! Matt took a big whipper, all gear came out apart from a single tri-cam. This was welded in good and proper. After two more falls he made it to the top. Nice one!

w.pettet-smith ??/2009 Lead

oh my goodness that slopey ledge is rubbish, and i'm no shorty.

with duncan the quiet american
RM199 ??/2009 Lead β
stephenhartley ??/2009 2nd
Sal37 ??/2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Nov/08 Lead
Si dH 18/Oct/08 2nd rpt
with Neil Furniss
Hidden 18/Oct/08 Lead rpt
lowersharpnose 19/Sep/08 2nd
with John Nuttall
clive-greenwood 10/Sep/08 Lead O/S
MikeLeeds 10/Sep/08 2nd O/S
darren1 08/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Tim Booth
Hidden 01/Sep/08 Lead
London Luke ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S
climbergg 24/Aug/08 2nd
Tim M 24/Aug/08 Lead
with Emma
Hidden 23/Aug/08 2nd dog
Lev 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Shaw Brown 10/Aug/08 Lead
with Martin Panton
Martin Haworth 03/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Marek
Andrew Sloan 03/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Steve Grove
givemetea 25/Jul/08 2nd dog

argh!! On the slabby section I couldn't make the reach from the undercut to the line of slippery pebbles. Was there another way to do this section?

with Craig Jenkins
Franco Cookson OLD 15/Jul/08 Solo O/S
Joe Dove 13/Jul/08 2nd
with kev
Joe Dove 13/Jul/08 2nd
with kev
smudge 03/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Hugh D
Guy Wilson 15/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Rick Cotgreave
Jon_Warner 06/Jun/08 Lead RP

Took a lob off the obvious move. First real airtime on a lead, brilliant!! 2nd go.

petemeads 05/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Jim tried first, having done it before, but he is now no longer tall enough. Used his approach, which coincides with Nick Smith's (below)and this worked OK. Seeing all the photo's now I suspect it may not be the best method!

craig d ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Simon Kincaid
Hidden 08/May/08 Lead rpt
roberto18 07/May/08 Lead

extremely reachy, had to do a slight jump for the hold!

with Dad (Mike Bridges)
mike bridges 07/May/08 2nd rpt

It was a really long reach for Rob and needed a dynamic approach.I was just pleased i managed it "clean".

Kit Gillibrand 03/May/08 2nd
perfectlynormalbeast 17/Feb/08 2nd O/S

As the guide book says, definitely hard for the short.

with Tom Lambert
Graeme Hammond 10/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Feb/08 2nd O/S
johnboyrevel ?/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Justin
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
matt.jj ??/2008 Lead dog
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 12/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Nov/07 Solo
OffshoreAndy 03/Nov/07 Lead rpt
with NCC Nic
Tobias at Home 01/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Mun
Hidden 11/Jul/07 2nd rpt
Tim W 07/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/07 Lead rpt
A Crook 01/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Duncan Hassell
Hidden 20/May/07 2nd dog
Hidden 20/May/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/07 2nd dnf
Hidden 18/Apr/07 Lead O/S
spbond 10/Apr/07 2nd O/S
SamStrong 10/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Mick r 05/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Tom
Hidden 02/Mar/07 2nd
Sidekick 17/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Dom Whillans ??/2007 -
Ethan ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Ben Humphris, Don Walker
Daniel Armitage 23/Dec/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Oct/06 Lead rpt
Caralynh 23/Oct/06 2nd

No way was I anywhere near reaching the break, even with the crimps Nick used, so ended up using a high toe hook and a sidepull that put me horizontal for a second but seemed to work!

JonBray 08/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Nicos 04/Oct/06 Lead O/S
OffshoreAndy 23/Sep/06 2nd
with Skell
Owen W-G 09/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Emerson
01wills ?/Sep/06 Lead O/S

pretty easy

with luke williams
Skell ?/Sep/06 Lead O/S
dpurf 18/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Patrick
Nick Taylor 06/Aug/06 Lead β

The guidebook gives this E2 5c if you're short.. which I believe I am! Still, won't claim it as my first E2..

with Kerry
Hidden 29/Jul/06 Lead
Pythonist 29/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Chris Jennions
Bux ?/Jun/06 2nd dog

Could not make the reach!

with Jon
derico ?/Jun/06 Lead rpt
Hidden 28/May/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/May/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/06 Lead
Andy Chubb 15/Apr/06 Lead
Ram MkiV 21/Jan/06 Lead O/S

juggy start. 5b/5c stretch off sidepull at the very limit of reach with good gear at my feet - nice. easy there after.

with Alex Mason
Hidden ?/Nov/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Oct/05 Lead O/S
reg_measures ?/Oct/05 Lead O/S
with timmy elson
Alex Mason ?/Oct/05 Lead O/S

good route bit short so apparently i get e2 for it. awesome

with mark siberia
Si dH 21/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Neil Furniss
French Erick 03/Sep/05 AltLd
Dave Kerr 03/Sep/05 AltLd
with Erick Baillot
Hidden 30/Aug/05 Lead O/S
leon ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S

a great route. positive holds but interesting moves to the slap. then a reach to crips from the side pull. never difficult but sustains interest throughout.

with Steven Davidson
LankyPaddy 15/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Alistair Ross
Stig 14/Jul/05 2nd O/S
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Budge 07/Jul/05 Lead O/S
maybe_si 06/Jun/05 Lead O/S
chris sm 14/May/05 Lead O/S
with Dom Goodridge, Pippa Froggatt
Hidden ?/May/05 Lead O/S
Rich Guest ?/May/05 Lead O/S

Well reachy at the crux but good pro. Sort of climb where I wonder how I did it afterwards. Onsight spurs you on, as does copious amounts of chalk!

Hidden 25/Apr/05 Lead O/S
Pete Graham ??/2005 2nd
with Dave Morris
Hidden ??/2005 2nd
Hidden ??/2005 Lead
mattwyles1 ?/Sep/04 2nd
ukb & bmc shark 19/Aug/04 Solo O/S
cpoad 07/Aug/04 2nd dog

Too short for the long stretch. Had to pull on the rope

with Susie R, Samuel R
cem 13/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Rod Strachan
Hidden 31/May/04 2nd
ChrisBrooke 30/May/04 2nd
with John Inkpen
DorsetGareth 10/May/03 Lead O/S

My First E1

Gambit 08/May/03 Lead O/S
Mark A Humphries 07/May/03 Lead O/S
RussB 16/Apr/03 Lead O/S
with Leigh
Paz ?/Apr/03 Lead
with MH
furry 14/Sep/02 Lead O/S
with Phil B
Hidden ?/Aug/02 2nd
Mark Stevenson 04/May/02 2nd O/S
with Loz Owen / Chris Howard
Hidden ??/2002 -
Jon Greengrass ??/2002 Lead RP
with Tom
NeilGriffiths 27/Jul/01 -
with Simon Frost
Hidden 12/May/01 2nd
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2001 -
with Nik Howard, Martin Flint
Hidden 09/Sep/00 Lead
EllieWoods 10/Apr/00 2nd O/S
with Ian Denton
cornishben ?/Jan/00 Lead O/S
with Ben Raymond
nige ??/2000 -
Rock Fairy ??/2000 -
Rock Fairy ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
tlr ??/2000 Lead
JamesP ??/2000 Lead
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Mark Davies PK ??/2000 Lead O/S
Rock Fairy ??/2000 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/99 Lead O/S
Chris the Tall ?/Jun/99 Lead rpt

Had taken a big fall some years earlier

Coel Hellier ??/1999 Lead
Hidden 02/May/98 Lead O/S
lost.arrow 18/May/96 -
with Iain Kerr
nai ??/1995 Lead
goi.ashmore 01/Jul/94 Lead O/S
with Dee Herbert
Neil R 05/Jun/93 2nd
with Richard W
Hidden 05/Jun/93 Lead
andybirtwistle 25/Jul/92 Solo
SR1970 ?/May/92 Lead O/S
WB ??/1992 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Oct/91 2nd
Hidden 22/Oct/91 Lead
Rob Davies 15/Sep/91 Lead
with Mick Moss
Hidden ??/1991 Lead O/S
Gudge ??/1991 2nd O/S
with MUMC
Roget 13/May/90 Lead O/S
with jim, jon
Iain Thow 22/Apr/90 2nd

With one fall.

with Steve di Ponio
Hidden 04/Oct/89 2nd
KRB 14/Jul/89 Lead O/S
with Mike Bridges
Michael Hood 19/Apr/87 Lead
mike bridges 10/May/85 Lead O/S
with Neil Gregory
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1982 Lead
Canyak ??/1973 -
Si Croft ??/0000 Lead
with Bernie, JD
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 133
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 126
Votes cast 122
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set