Rockfax Description
Climb the awkward thin crack in the blunt arete to a cramped ledge, then attack the crack that splits the overhang by jamming/laybacking. Watch for the rope jamming in the crack. © Rockfax

FA. Len Chapman 1940

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Eastern Grit Jamming, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, 'Soft' Peak HVSs., Stanage for Crack Apprentices, Ultimate HVS ticklist.

marconi 26/Nov/16 2nd
with Chris
Palmer 26/Nov/16 Lead
patrickcd 05/Nov/16 Lead
with Yura
myrddinmuse 22/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Great combo of brilliant slab, and awesome layback. Short, sharp, excellent. Played right to my style.

with Adam Vaughan
nigel bassam 22/Oct/16 Lead
petegruf 22/Oct/16 2nd
with Nigel
Hidden 20/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Col Kingshott 15/Oct/16 Lead O/S
kingfionnbharr 12/Oct/16 Lead
kermit_uk 02/Oct/16 2nd O/S
sjbrook 02/Oct/16 2nd O/S


with Jamie, PMC
Hidden 01/Oct/16 2nd rpt
Hidden 25/Sep/16 2nd dog
Jim Slater 25/Sep/16 Lead rpt
with Maia
Kirill 18/Sep/16 Lead

Still have no idea how to do the start, but climbed the rest of the route now.

with Ilia
Steve Wootton 18/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Ilia Nadyrbayev 18/Sep/16 2nd
rachelpearce01 14/Sep/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/16 Lead O/S
The Grist 11/Sep/16 2nd
will_benfold 11/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/16 Solo
jimbonfire 04/Sep/16 Lead O/S
GeorgiePorgie1 04/Sep/16 2nd O/S
with Jim Broomhead
Hidden 28/Aug/16 Lead G/U
Hidden 14/Aug/16 Lead O/S
mikespooner 14/Aug/16 2nd O/S
matt1024 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Alex C
AlexCib 06/Aug/16 2nd O/S

Fun climb; a few strenuous laybacking moves but the 'agony' is short-lived!

keitht 25/Jul/16 Lead
LeeHawden 23/Jul/16 2nd O/S
with joe
Joe.Elliott1 20/Jul/16 Lead
cragsman9000 14/Jul/16 2nd O/S
with Neil
esuddes 08/Jul/16 2nd
with Henry
benlatham07 03/Jul/16 2nd
greylag 03/Jul/16 2nd
Wizzy 27/Jun/16 Solo O/S
crossleysm 26/Jun/16 2nd O/S
kierankeavy 07/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Simon Palmer
greenclimb 05/May/16 Lead rpt
thejunglist 02/May/16 Lead O/S
with Timmy G
Hidden 17/Apr/16 Lead
Gympaul 16/Apr/16 2nd
Andy Moles 15/Apr/16 Solo
l21bjd 10/Apr/16 TR
FlavioL1989 10/Apr/16 Lead O/S
rajeshwarbisht 10/Apr/16 2nd rpt
with Flavio
oread 03/Apr/16 2nd
williap 03/Apr/16 2nd
scottcoates 03/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with williap
Oliver Smaje 02/Apr/16 2nd O/S
Conor Nally 02/Apr/16 Lead
Hidden 20/Mar/16 2nd rpt
MrFantastic 16/Mar/16 Solo G/U
gaz3212 28/Feb/16 Lead O/S
Kris 27/Feb/16 Lead
MrFantastic 25/Jan/16 Solo dnf
PAJames ??/2016 -
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Jim Malo 20/Dec/15 2nd

Clean after falling off the start

with Mark
TP 01/Nov/15 Lead dog

Rested once

with ironmax
Ironmax 01/Nov/15 2nd
with TP
Hidden 25/Oct/15 Lead O/S
edjenkins 25/Oct/15 2nd

lives up to its name

Hidden 17/Oct/15 2nd O/S
Dan Geh 11/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Arjun
alp79 09/Oct/15 2nd dog

Need to work on footwork and twistyness.

with Tessa
mynyddresident 04/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with KP
xiangoh 04/Oct/15 2nd β
NOG 04/Oct/15 Lead O/S
tessa teapot ?/Oct/15 -
Luke90 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Liz
nick ferro 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Oli Birkill
Hidden 13/Sep/15 2nd dog
Robaduck 29/Aug/15 Lead
PeterDawson 09/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Durkules 02/Aug/15 2nd
MaccMark 02/Aug/15 2nd
augustus trout 02/Aug/15 Lead
Andypeak 02/Aug/15 Lead

soft touch HVS

Nigel Bond 23/Jul/15 2nd
with Bern Hardman
martinbettridge06 15/Jul/15 Lead
with Ian Saxton, Alan parker
Ian Saxton 15/Jul/15 2nd
with al, martin
Jamesmoly 11/Jul/15 2nd dog
Hidden 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
David Staples 04/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/15 Lead RP
Droyd 26/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Will, Chris
rurp 23/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Nice rest under the overhang

with Mark, bill farmer
Keith Swainson 20/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Georgie25 20/Jun/15 2nd
Hidden 10/Jun/15 2nd
Calum Wadsworth 10/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Jit, Hannah R
adamre12 06/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/15 Lead β
Peakphil 04/Jun/15 Lead O/S
thefuturesmiles 04/Jun/15 2nd
Hidden 30/May/15 2nd O/S
Lukem6 30/May/15 Lead O/S
shaun walby 30/May/15 Lead rpt
with Neil R
Hidden 30/May/15 Lead
Jenny Monkey 30/May/15 2nd
maybe_si 23/May/15 Lead O/S
tiffanykate12 23/May/15 -
amccann 23/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/May/15 2nd rpt
mreynolds 23/May/15 2nd O/S
timreynolds 23/May/15 Lead
1poundSOCKS 10/May/15 Lead O/S

Not much agony involved. A better name might be 'Layback Crack'.

Hidden 10/May/15 Lead O/S
Batt 10/May/15 2nd rpt

Direct start

spragglerocks 10/May/15 Lead rpt
with Alex S
Hoyes 10/May/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 10/May/15 2nd
Tubs 04/May/15 Lead rpt
with John T
Hidden ?/May/15 -
GPN 26/Apr/15 Lead
with Simon, Shaw Brown
Simonfarfaraway 26/Apr/15 2nd
with George
Shaw Brown 26/Apr/15 2nd
with Simon White, George North
Derek Furze 19/Apr/15 2nd
with Paul Mitchell
Hidden 10/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/15 AltLd
jonhowson 09/Apr/15 Lead rpt

Rematch and victory!

with Pete
MrBIond 07/Apr/15 2nd
mrteale 07/Apr/15 -
robblowen 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Munch
munch88 04/Apr/15 2nd β
with rob
pie_eater_pete 19/Mar/15 Solo rpt
jonhowson 18/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Delicate down below and the thuggy above on good gear.

with Chris
TobyA 14/Mar/15 2nd O/S
with SimonW
Hidden 07/Mar/15 Lead dnf
Hidden 05/Mar/15 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden 09/Nov/14 2nd
Matt Harmon 02/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Sarah Roscoe 02/Nov/14 2nd
Hidden 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S
leeds_belle 26/Oct/14 Lead dog

Spent way too long faffing around trying to figure out how best to do the arÍte and got to the ledge feeling pretty pumped with really cold hands. Had to sit on a cam before committing to the move into the crack. One to come back to when it's a bit warmer!

with Ed
kwaidy 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with sting
sting 12/Oct/14 2nd dog
with kwaidy
Harry Thorpe 11/Oct/14 Lead O/S
thetradlad 11/Oct/14 2nd O/S
max_chan 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S
john_ni 05/Oct/14 2nd
with Matt Fellelow (PCC)
Andy Peak 1 28/Sep/14 2nd
with Tom Martin
Ciderslider 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Very awkward working out the start, but once off the ground all fine. Burley pull though the small roof but quickly over and very well protected

with Ben
Goodstuff 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
pete40 07/Sep/14 2nd
WillDoyle 07/Sep/14 2nd
luke glaister 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Short but sweet. Great gear and easy layback moves. If u hang around it will bite back mind...

casey johns 31/Aug/14 2nd
Hidden 24/Aug/14 2nd
felixizzy 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Dan
Richard Hession 19/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Gaz
cf2g08 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Iain
petegruf 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with jon c
the power 31/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Nick1812P 30/Jul/14 Solo O/S
with Jake
NDD 29/Jun/14 Solo
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd β
ClemB 08/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 08/Jun/14 Lead rpt
BTphonehome 06/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Kasha
kasha_gregson 06/Jun/14 2nd
with Bram
shaunhumphreys 03/Jun/14 Lead rpt

forgot id seconded this a while back! fairly straight forward

with calum
Hidden 03/Jun/14 2nd dog
daveclarke5 01/Jun/14 2nd
with Jim
jimsim55 01/Jun/14 Lead

Forgot I'd done this! 2014 was a good year for me.

Kirill 31/May/14 Lead dnf

Nope, still can't do it. Tried it a few years back with similar result (the lack of).

with Mari Ijas
Matt Poole 31/May/14 2nd O/S
with Thomas Heaton
Hidden 30/May/14 2nd
Fragmod 03/May/14 2nd
Deezel65 03/May/14 Lead O/S
cragtyke 03/May/14 2nd

ross led

Jonny Nick 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Great. But managed to get my brand new bd 1 cam stuck and took an hour hanging on an ab rope to get out.

Hidden 14/Apr/14 Lead β
Hidden 14/Apr/14 2nd dog
mes32 01/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Simon Allcock, Wilki
Simon Allcock 01/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Mary, Wilki
Hidden 29/Mar/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Mar/14 AltLd
Derek Furze 12/Mar/14 AltLd
with Paul Mitchell
Hidden 12/Mar/14 2nd
robgixer 11/Mar/14 Lead O/S
stp 11/Mar/14 Solo rpt
ralphio 05/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Found the layback quite easy. thought the start was the crux which took a bit of thinking.

Ollie B 22/Feb/14 Lead O/S
with S.Bennett
Alfie Conn ??/2014 -
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
stevelismore 29/Dec/13 2nd dog

Took a while to build up the strength for the layback move. I blame the cold weather!

with Trevor PCC, James L
Hidden 29/Dec/13 Lead
marconi 14/Dec/13 Lead
stuaart ?/Dec/13 Lead O/S
ashtond6 25/Nov/13 Lead O/S
alp79 25/Nov/13 2nd dog
popebenedictus 09/Nov/13 2nd rpt
adrianscott 09/Nov/13 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 07/Nov/13 Solo O/S
with Jonny P
monkeyboy3000 19/Oct/13 Lead dog
Hidden 10/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/13 Lead dog
Si ?/Oct/13 2nd O/S
rohai545 29/Sep/13 2nd
with Michael French
Hidden 28/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/13 AltLd
Hidden 15/Sep/13 2nd
Mr. K 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S
James Oswald 14/Sep/13 2nd

Nice moves, shame it isn't a little longer. With heckling from Colin, J-Ro, Stacey and Chris.

bantamdave 08/Sep/13 2nd dog
with Ade
Elliot King LC&CC 08/Sep/13 Lead dog

Got pumped wasted time fucking around crap climbing style!!

with James
Hidden 08/Sep/13 2nd
Pero 31/Aug/13 Lead
ethan109 23/Aug/13 Lead O/S
ChrisBrooke 23/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with Cat Freeman
RichyBOYY 22/Aug/13 Lead
Pike 10/Aug/13 2nd dog

Slipped off the technical start, very pumpy.

mattwilk 10/Aug/13 Lead dog

So nearly got this. Tricky technical start (5b), really nice moves, awkward rest, then pumpy top section. Would have probably been ok if cam hadn't moved and opened, pumped out retrieving and replacing it at bottom of crack. Committed immediately to move into crack after short rest though, great move and easy from there.

with Mike
Merlin 03/Aug/13 Lead dog

Relatively straight forward once you get your foot up!

with Polly Withers
colin8ll 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Gemma
rich_hw 25/Jun/13 Lead rpt
davidalcock 18/Jun/13 2nd


with Nick
joemallia 17/Jun/13 2nd rpt
pog100 16/Jun/13 2nd
with Mike Mortimer
treg 16/Jun/13 Lead dog

Got feet too high and managed to barn door out of the layback position, resulting in a pretty decent fall. My first since my return to climbing. Two amazing cams in the roof made it perfectly safe.

with Patrick
benkelsey 16/Jun/13 Solo O/S
lanc23 10/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/13 Lead
shaunhumphreys 05/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Jem
Hidden 04/Jun/13 Lead
john_ni 04/Jun/13 2nd
with David Fisher (PCC)
Lazytraveller 03/Jun/13 Lead dog
Hidden 03/Jun/13 2nd β
hotfeet 02/Jun/13 Lead dog

Took a rest at the crux.

Chris Redding 01/Jun/13 2nd O/S
MoWalker3 01/Jun/13 -
with Cormac
Jack93 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S

It's quite a commiting lay back in the middle

staceyjg 19/May/13 2nd O/S

A little beta to get off the ground, after that, fab route

with Barra
Hidden 11/May/13 Lead O/S
shaun walby 04/May/13 Lead rpt
with al Jackson
John Nuttall 02/May/13 2nd
with Chris
Gudge 02/May/13 Lead rpt
with John Nuttall
dr_botnik 01/May/13 Lead O/S

had to downclimb from the crux as I couldn't work it out first go, felt sublime when I sussed it, worthwhile.

the power 01/May/13 2nd


with rob
al jackson ?/May/13 2nd
Hidden 30/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Pat-H 23/Apr/13 Lead dog
with cate, don
BLodge 20/Apr/13 -
kate tarrant ?/Apr/13 2nd
ElStevo13 ??/2013 Lead
AlanPedrick ??/2013 -
Ben Grounsell ??/2013 Lead O/S
Palmer 10/Nov/12 Lead
ChrisBrooke 20/Oct/12 2nd
with Monika Inkpen
The Biochemist 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
bwestwood 07/Oct/12 2nd
Peter Reynolds 07/Oct/12 Lead
pie_eater_pete 23/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with bwestwood
woodsy 15/Sep/12 Lead
Hidden 09/Sep/12 2nd dog
seanlikeskites 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Ali.B 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with RobertCanavan
coffeepot 09/Sep/12 2nd
with jelaby
jelaby 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Much easier than Thrombosis!

MeMeMe 02/Sep/12 Lead
with Amy
charley 02/Sep/12 TR O/S

Enjoyed this one. Was 4th up so didn't have to place or remove gear but the bottom felt like the technical crux and the top was just strenuous pulling on good holds..

chumleywarner 02/Sep/12 TR O/S
valentinesbabe 02/Sep/12 2nd dog

Jack's lead but he startd in from Right. I did proper start which is well worthwhile. Slipped off once later on the route after hanging around trying to get gear out and then rope kept dropping into the crack as I was trying to jam it! Grrr. Soooooo nearly had it clean :-/

Tithe Technique 02/Sep/12 TR dog
Jackwd 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Steve Fletcher, Charley Fell, Kev Titheradge, Angela Paul
Hidden 02/Sep/12 2nd
deacondeacon 23/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/12 2nd
Pero 11/Aug/12 2nd
Rachel Slater 08/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Olli-C 08/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Way easier than it looks.

Hardcore Pat 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Sir William of pettitsmith
Hannes B 12/Jul/12 Solo O/S
Hidden 08/Jul/12 Lead O/S
claregardiner 07/Jul/12 2nd
steveP 01/Jun/12 2nd RP
with Parminder Chagger
Hidden 08/May/12 Lead dog
garry smith 05/May/12 Lead O/S
Nick F Smith 05/May/12 Lead O/S
with Garry Smith
fatbuoybazza 28/Apr/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/Apr/12 2nd
r.greaves 07/Apr/12 2nd
with alex
mol 06/Apr/12 2nd
with Jesse
ash longreach ?/Apr/12 2nd
Hidden 30/Mar/12 2nd
Hidden 27/Mar/12 2nd O/S
OffshoreAndy 27/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Sam
ERH 24/Mar/12 2nd
Clay C 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Ed
Hidden 23/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Joey C 21/Mar/12 TR O/S
with Ed Evans
laurie turpin 21/Mar/12 2nd
tallsop 20/Mar/12 Lead O/S


with Adam Evans
Hidden 19/Mar/12 Solo O/S
Jeromecooper 18/Mar/12 -
Fat Tim 11/Mar/12 Lead β
joemallia 11/Mar/12 2nd rpt
Hidden 11/Mar/12 2nd
ChrisBrooke 10/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Duncan Bell
riddle 10/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Tom Elliot
Peakpdr 08/Mar/12 Lead O/S

More like vs than hvs

Rich098 04/Mar/12 Lead O/S
andyjirvin 03/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Nice climb, slightly balancey and technical start, followed by one or two really nive big layback moves, then jugs and it's all over. Shame it's not longer. Not agony at all.

Hidden ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Nevil ??/2012 Lead
with Mike
Hidden ??/2012 2nd
Hidden 29/Nov/11 Lead O/S
john lynch 24/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Lewis Andrew
Hidden 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
drysori 06/Nov/11 2nd
with JenW
Hidden 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
RiverRoam 06/Nov/11 2nd β

powerful rock over, on overhang. Over fast.

grp 29/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Oct/11 2nd
chrisallan 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
hilty 16/Oct/11 2nd
Tobias at Home 15/Oct/11 -
with SteveM
SteveM 15/Oct/11 2nd
with Tobs
Ed Westwood 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with gidmord
gidmord 15/Oct/11 2nd β
Sowerby Sam 08/Oct/11 2nd O/S

Weather was awful. Low cloud, rain, wet grit.

Hidden 08/Oct/11 Lead rpt
Lenny 02/Oct/11 2nd
with John
Chalky Cat ?/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with Dom
Hidden 25/Sep/11 Lead
pebbles 18/Sep/11 2nd

after failing on lead! ran out of udge.

with jan, richard
Hidden 17/Sep/11 Lead
Matt Cooke 15/Sep/11 Lead O/S
tompilgrem 17/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Dad
treg 17/Aug/11 2nd
with Rachel
bobpilgrem 17/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Great natural line-stuff in cams and sharply layback untill feet in break- found it straightforward.

with Bob/Tom
Hidden 11/Aug/11 Lead rpt
al123 03/Aug/11 Solo O/S

fun. only agony was the midges attacking me.

CurlyStevo ?/Aug/11 Lead

Nice climb with a hard start for 5a. Good first HVS as not sustained and can be reasonably well protected the whole way up.

with Kenny
Bob Windsor ?/Aug/11 Lead
with Rick Graham
Hidden 28/Jul/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 25/Jul/11 Lead O/S
joe1979 15/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Whealiebob 14/Jul/11 Lead dog
pizza 13/Jul/11 -

lead after partner put gear in and then he failed on crux move , climbed using his pre placed gear and finshed route myself

with steve perry
Hidden 11/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Savlon 26/Jun/11 2nd
with Luke Perry
Hidden 22/Jun/11 Lead O/S
gronbech 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with oumc
Matt Shepherd 06/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Jimbo C 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Only one jam was truly necessary so not really ' agony' although as Pete said 'that jam is rank'. Good moves in the crack after the lip and a stunning line.

with Pete
Steve Perry ?/Jun/11 2nd
with Pete
wi11 21/May/11 Solo O/S
with Frank C
gordonday 21/May/11 Lead O/S
with clive
Ragnaar 11/May/11 Lead

Bit like Harding's Superdirect - place some good gear under the overhang and just crank away to the top before confidence fades! Great stuff. Big arms help.

with martin hirons
Sam Simpson 02/May/11 Lead O/S
alias dave 02/May/11 2nd O/S
with Sam.EB
Palindrome ?/May/11 2nd

Single rest at crux.

elCapitano 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Tony Ryland 29/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 28/Apr/11 Solo
BeccaSnowden 25/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Very cool move - if only it carried on for longer!

with Tom
thomasadixon 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Cool route, start's trickier than expected.

with Becca
Will_Maxwell 24/Apr/11 2nd
with Rafael Pena
John Elliott 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Doug Allen
Hidden 22/Apr/11 Lead β
Josephine 22/Apr/11 2nd
with Rob, Mike Freeman
flatland_warrior 18/Apr/11 TR β
Neil R 17/Apr/11 2nd
Martin Haworth 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
shaun walby 17/Apr/11 2nd rpt
with Martin Haworth
ggflett 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Carl Norman
Alex 74 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Ian c
Carol Goodall 11/Apr/11 2nd dog
jw231 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Alex Skew
jonnie3430 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Carol
ally1509 09/Apr/11 2nd dog
JulesV 07/Apr/11 Solo rpt
Hidden 07/Apr/11 Lead O/S
JasRY 07/Apr/11 Lead dog
with Phill tooley
Hidden 07/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Mar/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 29/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Cake 29/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Matt
Oliver Houston 29/Mar/11 2nd
Steve Waters, Mynydd 27/Mar/11 Lead

The end of a great day! Nowhere near as painful as the name suggests. The first move is the technical crux and probably 5b. The rest is hugely enjoyable and well protected. The crack itself is 5a and can be laybacked with one particularly thrilling move.

mtempest 27/Mar/11 2nd
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
Joez 27/Mar/11 2nd O/S

Nice, with no polish!

msherelle 27/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Joe
w.pettet-smith 22/Mar/11 Solo O/S
SteWatkins ?/Mar/11 -
thekendo 24/Feb/11 2nd
Andy Peak 1 24/Feb/11 Lead
with kenney
Hidden 12/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Feb/11 2nd O/S
Andy Peak 1 23/Jan/11 Lead
with Atila
thekendo 23/Jan/11 2nd rpt
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
uphillnow ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
Jim Slater 13/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Cornish Cream 06/Nov/10 Lead
Darrell Read 06/Nov/10 2nd
31770 06/Nov/10 Lead
thekendo 31/Oct/10 Lead β
odox 31/Oct/10 2nd O/S


with Jonny Reay, Sam Webb
JRae 31/Oct/10 Lead
with Sam W, I Birtwistle
mike_tibbits 30/Oct/10 Lead
with Dave Tibbits
Hidden 20/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Lumbering Oaf 13/Oct/10 Lead dog
spragglerocks 13/Oct/10 2nd O/S
thekendo 10/Oct/10 2nd β
claregardiner 02/Oct/10 Lead
katyvose1 ?/Oct/10 -
Hoyes 25/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Batt 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Oliver Houston 21/Sep/10 Lead O/S
jackappleby 18/Sep/10 Lead dog

first HVS. not clean but only cos of fear. first trad fall, but just above good cam.

tri-nitro-tuolumne 07/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Tim Selvage
tigertim 07/Sep/10 2nd
grubes 05/Sep/10 2nd
with Haydn, Alex
Hardonicus 05/Sep/10 2nd O/S

Tricky to start.

with Luke Donaldson, Alex Thompson
Hidden 05/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Si dH 22/Aug/10 Lead rpt

On Tom's gear after he backed off. I think the very first move is probably 5b but can be avoided on the right. The meat of the rotue is softish HVS 5a.

with Tom Lambert
Hidden 10/Aug/10 Lead O/S
llamaglama 10/Aug/10 2nd
with Jam
Fran S8 07/Aug/10 Lead
Helnorris 03/Aug/10 2nd

Really good pumpy climbing.

stvredmond 03/Aug/10 Lead

good strenuous climbing. lower half has got to be the crux.

Danny Crump 03/Aug/10 2nd O/S
dan gibson 03/Aug/10 Solo rpt
Hidden 01/Aug/10 2nd rpt
hailtryfan ?/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Danny
howlingbaboon 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Rob
simeclimb68 25/Jul/10 Solo rpt
davenev 19/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with luke
Mr Tickle 19/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with davenev
Hidden 17/Jul/10 Lead O/S
andrea83 06/Jul/10 2nd O/S

Ok. Unprotected lower section. Not really worth two stars.

with German Benny
mjeffery 02/Jul/10 Lead O/S
markfairbank 20/Jun/10 2nd
with SteveyM
SteveMyatt 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Mark Fairbank
RFWilkie 31/May/10 Lead rpt

Took a rest first go, so stripped and re-led

pabbage 21/May/10 Lead O/S
pldarch 21/May/10 Lead
with Sam
sambosanquet101 21/May/10 2nd
MikaelW 01/May/10 Lead dog

first HVS

with Oli, Steve
Hidden ?/May/10 2nd
garywong 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/10 2nd
philgeorge999 17/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Gary
Hidden 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
popebenedictus 12/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Edd Rab
edd rab 12/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/10 Lead O/S
greenclimb 21/Mar/10 Lead rpt
CharlieMack ?/Mar/10 Solo O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
chris552303 ??/2010 Lead
Sean Kelly ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead dog
richyg ??/2010 -
Byronius Maximus 07/Nov/09 Lead rpt
with Lauren Foster, Rayan Sammut
Hidden 07/Nov/09 2nd
Shaw Brown 17/Oct/09 Lead
with Simon White
Jonathan Hall 10/Oct/09 2nd
disturbed_one51 10/Oct/09 Lead
with Wee man
Hidden ?/Oct/09 2nd
hellboundblr 26/Sep/09 Lead
with Danny Smudge
Hidden 26/Sep/09 2nd
Bob M 16/Sep/09 Lead O/S
frost 19/Aug/09 Solo O/S

back roped with a grigri

James_D 19/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Possibly cheated a bit on the start, came in from the right. Found a nice no hands rest before the overhang, and didn't really have any probs with the rest.

with Esther
Hidden 15/Aug/09 -
Dave Mountford 12/Aug/09 2nd
with alex thackaway
b.hayley 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with alfredo
Alfredo 08/Aug/09 2nd
with Ben H
Hidden 06/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Chris Craggs 02/Aug/09 2nd
with Colin Binks
remus 02/Aug/09 Solo O/S

Spotted it, walked up to it, donned the boots and went for it. Tidy.

fatbuoybazza 20/Jul/09 Lead dog
Dave Mountford 20/Jul/09 2nd
with alex thackaway
Rachel S 18/Jul/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/09 TR RP
davidwright 11/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Mark Stitson (ULGMC) 11/Jul/09 2nd
with David Wright
Ketu 05/Jul/09 2nd O/S
with Charles M
cem 05/Jul/09 Lead rpt
Milne 26/Jun/09 Lead O/S

hard start, very hot and sweaty. felt hard for 5a.

with sarah.
Hidden 26/Jun/09 2nd dog
vvanhinsbergh 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Chris Burn
nai 14/Jun/09 2nd rpt
with Tim
tlr 14/Jun/09 Lead
with Pom
Hidden 13/Jun/09 Lead dog
Duncan Skelton 13/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Albie Niedojadio
schaff 02/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Mikkel
AJ007 27/Apr/09 Lead
Hidden 26/Apr/09 2nd dog
Hidden 26/Apr/09 Lead dog
Pilch 23/Apr/09 2nd O/S

Dan led, tricky start then pretty straightforward, classic stuff

with Graham and Dan
tigertim 11/Apr/09 2nd
with Tony Payne
mark20 06/Apr/09 Lead O/S

First HVS. Tricky start, and a hard pull into top crack. Good gear.

Sam1991 05/Apr/09 2nd

Found it quite tough for the grade, got pumped pulling through the roof, somehow didnt fall off

with Mark
Hidden ?/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/09 Lead RP
Hidden 20/Mar/09 Solo O/S
Reaver2k 18/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Harder start than I had initialy thought! Suprisingly the first time I actually seriously attempted it I got it though! Got a right hand on a good hold, left hand on the high poor hold, step up awkwardly then right hand up into really big jug and walk upto main roof. Placed gear from a really awkward position, sort of lent over a block fiddling with gear behind me, placed 3 pieces, could easily get more so basicly can be as safe as you want! Sharp layback and left hand up onto half decent hold in first main break, then finish easily. Basicly just one sharp pull and its all over! Nice climb though!

with Michael, Greame, Becca, Lisa, Tom and Andy
Simon Davenport 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Probably hard 5a of the sloper to start. again nice and sustained

with Brian and Dave
BRUCESTRAC ??/2009 -
Sal37 ??/2009 Lead O/S
Brown 06/Dec/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 28/Nov/08 2nd O/S
Lewis Andrew 28/Nov/08 Lead O/S
with Rich Armour
Hidden 16/Oct/08 Lead
Andrew Sloan 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Mark D 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Basil
chris sm 25/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Pretty straightforward. No need to jam either if you don't want to.

with Pippa Froggatt
Shauna 04/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Steve
SimonAndersen ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Good route, nice moves and good protection.

with Kevin Belcher
DannyK 13/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Katie
EAYL 04/Jul/08 2nd
with anthonyecc
Sam W 28/Jun/08 Lead
with Nina Jenkinson
Wilbur 23/Jun/08 2nd O/S

So much fun!

with Caine
viking ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S

brilliant route! thuggy and juggy

Hidden 31/May/08 2nd rpt
Hidden 14/May/08 2nd rpt
Hidden 22/Apr/08 Solo
Hidden 09/Apr/08 Solo
Hidden 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S
AJ007 17/Feb/08 2nd
hailtryfan ?/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Costas
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/08 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
sdht ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 30/Oct/07 Lead dnf
mark4344 11/Oct/07 2nd
with michel schonewille
Hidden ?/Oct/07 Lead dog
shameless 30/Sep/07 Lead
with fi
stickinsect 30/Sep/07 2nd
with cris
Graeme Hammond 20/Sep/07 Lead rpt

Previously led but not clean 17/Feb/07 with Byron Buck

with Phil Baxter
Hidden 05/Sep/07 Lead rpt
Pythonist 05/Sep/07 2nd O/S
with DaveDJ
Mr Sparkle 01/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Aug/07 -
Hidden 05/Aug/07 2nd rpt
btc 01/Aug/07 Lead
with sion "master of the universe"
malc 24/Jul/07 2nd dog
with Paul S
Hidden 10/Jul/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/07 Lead
Hidden 13/Jun/07 Lead rpt
Si dH 08/Jun/07 Lead dog

One rest on the top crack - too sweaty and took too long working it out (not enough mileage recently!)

with Neil Furniss
Hidden 26/May/07 2nd rpt
Hidden 26/May/07 Lead rpt
Alex@home 26/May/07 Lead O/S

pretty much everything grit hvs should be. if only there was a bit more of it

with peakdj
Hidden 26/May/07 2nd dog
Iggy_B 23/May/07 Lead rpt
with Adam M
Hidden 20/May/07 2nd rpt
cem 20/May/07 2nd
with Jonathan I, Graham Dolman
Jim Vach 12/May/07 Lead O/S
with Tim Dorsett
Hidden 03/May/07 Lead rpt
peter myers ?/May/07 Lead
with Alex May
Iggy_B 29/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with Simon Troop
Hidden 29/Apr/07 Lead
Stick 28/Apr/07 2nd

hard bouldery start, crack at the top not requiring any agony

with Fat Al
Hidden 25/Apr/07 2nd
The Bad Cough ?/Apr/07 2nd O/S
craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Solo
jon22 ?/Apr/07 Lead
Byronius Maximus 17/Feb/07 2nd dog

Don't hang around on this one!

with Graeme Hammond
Hidden 04/Feb/07 2nd
Hidden 04/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Coel Hellier 03/Feb/07 Lead
Hidden 03/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
BenJacobs ??/2007 2nd
with PeakDJ
Andy Clarke 26/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with Tommo
Hidden ?/Nov/06 2nd
Hidden 22/Oct/06 Lead
shoulders 09/Sep/06 Lead
with pete lewis
Hidden ?/Sep/06 Lead
Hidden 13/Aug/06 Lead β
Hidden 03/Aug/06 2nd dog
Hidden 16/Jul/06 2nd dnf
Hidden 29/Jun/06 2nd rpt
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 24/Jun/06 Solo rpt
Monk 24/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with RUMC
Hidden 03/Jun/06 Lead
Hidden 03/May/06 Lead O/S
Piers Harley 03/May/06 2nd rpt
with Paul Winder
Piers Harley 30/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Simon Clark
Hidden 30/Apr/06 2nd
Hidden 29/Apr/06 Lead dnf
featuresforfeet 23/Apr/06 2nd dog
ukb shark 29/Mar/06 Solo
Nicos 21/Jan/06 Lead O/S
with mark richardson
dan gibson ??/2006 -
John Lisle ??/2006 -
mikelaing ??/2006 -
Tobias at Home ??/2006 -
alicia ?/Nov/05 Lead O/S

my first HVS

with Ali K
Alex Mason ?/Oct/05 Lead O/S

this was good quite pumpy 2*

with mark siberia
reg_measures ?/Oct/05 Lead O/S
with Ralph
mark4344 28/Sep/05 Lead
with Matt Payne
Hidden 22/Sep/05 Lead
trekkie ?/Aug/05 Lead

Nick took a really nice photo of me doing this..

with Steve
PenJD 22/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Ruth Smitton
Hidden 17/Apr/05 Lead rpt
Phil West 02/Apr/05 2nd rpt
with Shaun Walby
shaun walby 02/Apr/05 Lead dog


with Phil West
Pete Graham ??/2005 Lead
with Matt Pickles
Hidden ??/2005 -
duncan 04/Dec/04 Lead rpt
with Melissa Michelitsch
mel holmes ?/Nov/04 Lead O/S
Stig 08/Sep/04 2nd O/S
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Hidden ?/Mar/04 -
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
Phil West 15/Nov/03 Lead rpt
with Shaun Walby
Mark A Humphries 12/Nov/03 Lead β
SteveM 15/Sep/03 Lead
with Tobs
Hidden 06/Sep/03 2nd dog
beermonkey ?/Aug/03 2nd
with Mr Binks
Different Steve ?/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Rupert Holbrook
Phil West 26/Jul/03 Lead dnf
with Shaun Walby
furry 28/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Phil B
duncan 31/May/03 2nd
with Hugo Glover
ellie macpherson 24/May/03 Lead
with mike henesey
John Marsland 05/Apr/03 2nd
with Darrell Small
Paz ?/Apr/03 Lead
with MH
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 26/Mar/03 2nd O/S
with Jon Box
five 16/Mar/03 Lead dog
with TW
Dave Bond ??/2003 Lead
Hidden 23/Sep/02 Lead
dan gibson 11/Sep/02 Solo rpt
Hidden ?/Aug/02 Lead
ian_tintin 22/Jun/02 2nd
DerwentDiluted 17/May/02 Lead
with J. Ellson
Hidden 01/Apr/02 Lead
A Crook 27/Mar/02 Lead O/S
with Pat Boothman
Hidden 24/Mar/02 Lead O/S
Jon Greengrass ??/2002 -
DundeeDave 31/Aug/01 2nd
with Keith Wilkinson, Ben Hughes
Hidden 15/Aug/01 Lead
Hidden 14/Aug/01 Lead O/S
duncan 06/May/01 Lead rpt
martroberts 03/May/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/01 Lead
Brian Rodgers ??/2001 Lead O/S
with Julie
Ropeboy 17/Oct/00 Lead
WRMusall 30/Jul/00 2nd
kato'sdad ?/Jul/00 Lead
RobSimmo ?/Jul/00 2nd
adamwesthead 18/May/00 2nd O/S
with Wallis
JDDD 12/Mar/00 Lead
Roget 01/Jan/00 Solo rpt
rc ??/2000 Lead
JamesP ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
Rock Fairy ??/2000 2nd
Rock Fairy ??/2000 2nd
Rock Fairy ??/2000 2nd
Mark Davies PK ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
John Pickles 14/Jul/99 Lead O/S
with John Short
Obi-Wan is lost... 29/Jun/99 Lead
with Nick
Rog Wilko ?/May/99 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
Hidden 03/Apr/99 Lead
kato'sdad ?/Apr/99 Lead
RobSimmo ?/Apr/99 2nd
Simon Pearce ??/1999 -
Hidden 20/Sep/98 Lead O/S
Stoney Boy 20/Sep/98 Lead O/S
with Bob Grimes
nigehughes ?/Sep/98 Lead
with Pete Kay
Hidden 04/Aug/98 2nd
skygodley 07/Jul/98 Lead O/S
stokienomad 20/Jun/98 Lead
chrisrogers ?/Jun/98 Lead dog

Brutal, but good gear.

with Steve J
Hidden 03/Apr/98 Lead
smudge 28/Mar/98 Lead O/S
with Ian P
r0b 22/Feb/98 Lead O/S
with Ian Huyton
Phil West 22/Nov/97 2nd β
with A? gear shop owner from Glossop & Dave Atherton
Hidden 26/Oct/97 Lead dnf
Hidden 26/Oct/97 2nd rpt
Jody ?/Aug/97 -
with SG
nickdonohue 20/Jul/97 Lead
Hidden 01/Jun/97 Lead O/S
Reds 30/May/97 Lead dog
with Sezer
Hidden 01/Apr/97 Lead O/S
Phill Mitch ??/1997 Lead O/S
with gaz
JonBray ??/1997 Lead O/S
buxtoncoffeelover 31/Aug/96 Lead
Rampikino 18/Aug/96 2nd
Strong Steve 23/Jun/96 Lead O/S
BruceW ??/1996 Lead O/S

Sometime in the 90's

with Julian
colin milton 21/Jul/95 2nd
with eric milton
John Southworth 16/Jul/95 Solo O/S
nigehughes ?/Jul/95 Lead
with Pete Kay
Chris Ellis 02/Apr/95 Lead
with Louise Pellett
Rob Davies ?/Apr/95 2nd
Laramadness 05/Feb/95 Lead dog
Roget 02/Jan/95 Lead O/S
nai ??/1995 Lead
Iain Thow 01/Aug/93 Lead
with Bill Wright
daprince ?/Jun/93 Lead
Hidden ?/Mar/93 Lead O/S
IanD353 ??/1993 Lead O/S
charlesmfrench 22/Aug/92 Solo O/S
andybirtwistle 25/Jul/92 Solo
K1 ?/Jul/92 -
WB ??/1992 Lead O/S
Martin Bennett 14/Apr/91 -
with Nils Tremmel, MT
steve taylor ?/Mar/91 Solo
with Steve Williams
NickJH ?/Mar/91 2nd O/S
with D Picker
Gudge ??/1991 Lead O/S
with MUMC
Hidden ?/Apr/90 2nd dog
Marti999 ??/1990 Lead
Hidden 04/Oct/89 Lead
goi.ashmore 01/Oct/89 Lead O/S
with Dave Forster
stp ?/May/89 Solo O/S
Andy Say 27/Nov/88 Solo
babymoac 10/Jul/88 Lead
with kevin B
steve prior ?/Mar/87 Lead
with Rob W
Tom V 04/Jun/86 -
with Glenn Watson
Martin Bennett 30/Sep/85 -
with RA
philhc ??/1985 -
Rob Davies 10/Aug/84 Lead
with Mike Papworth
andy tetsill ?/Jul/84 Lead
with Manchester Poly
Hidden 03/Sep/83 2nd dnf
Rob Davies 31/Jan/81 AltLd dnf
with Tony Welsh
Andy Stephenson 27/Dec/80 2nd
Hidden 12/Aug/79 Solo
andy gittins ??/1979 -
Nigel Bond 08/Jun/78 Lead
with Martin Crosby
MikeDowsett ??/1978 Lead
Gordon Stainforth 28/Mar/76 2nd
with Brian Hall, Pete Minks
Dave Musgrove 10/Aug/75 -
Canyak ??/1973 -
clanger ??/1972 -
Hidden 24/Oct/65 Lead
Hidden 20/May/65 Lead
Hidden 01/May/65 TR
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