Rockfax Description
A direct version of Lucy's Delight which tackles the roof. © Rockfax

luke glaister 07/Jan Lead O/S

Nice enough . Glad I'm tall. That reach is long mind.

dr_botnik 25/Oct/17 Lead rpt
buxtoncoffeelover 09/Aug/17 TR

Direct 'over right-hand end' of bulge (as per Stanage 2007 guide) very tough for 5b unless I missed something (other than an extra 20cm reach). Used left arete to reach middle of ledge which felt more like tough 5a/easy 5b

with SHUNT
Ben Bransby 18/Jul/17 Lead
cragsman9000 13/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Neil
The Reaper 15/Jun/17 TR O/S


kermit_uk 02/Oct/16 Lead O/S
jack01 06/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with charley
charley 06/Jul/16 2nd rpt
with Jack
CameronH 19/Jun/16 TR O/S
CarrieAnn 19/Jun/16 TR
matt.stevenson 17/Oct/15 Lead

Went right after I couldn't work out how to get over the bulge.

climbingrev 29/Jun/15 TR O/S

Really escapeable. I rested to the rt just before crux - a real act of will to get back on route. pity really as otherwise it'd be a great climb.

Hidden 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
charley 08/Apr/15 Lead O/S

A lovely climb with quite a tough move at half height. Stuck to the centre of the wall, using the undercut crimp and a long reach. Being tall helped loads through the crux as didn't have to work my feet up too high. Sweaty holds made the moves more interesting though.

with Mark
MDR61 08/Apr/15 2nd dog

Just couldn't do the reach

with charley
MarkRoe 05/Nov/14 2nd O/S
woody99i 05/Nov/14 Lead O/S
fabricio 01/Nov/14 2nd
with lee
Hidden 17/Oct/14 2nd
planetmarshall 27/Jul/14 2nd
with Peter Stone
Marmoset 27/Jul/14 TR O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/14 -
monkeymatt 05/May/14 Lead O/S
Dacky 05/May/14 2nd β
with matt
Hidden 28/Apr/14 Lead
Hidden 08/Apr/14 Lead O/S
climberchristy 29/Mar/14 Lead rpt

A good little climb. Led it before. Quite tough technically for 5b but well protected crux. Can't believe someone has suggested e2 for this. You can get three good cams in the break right at the crux and there is only one hard move on the whole route.

with bencole
bencole 29/Mar/14 Lead rpt
shouter ??/2014 2nd
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
dannyboy83 07/Nov/13 Solo O/S
with Jonny P
timreynolds 28/Sep/13 TR
deacondeacon 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Used a scoop out right and it felt about 5C. Don't know how eliminate this is but would be nails going straight to the ledge from the undercut.

James Oswald 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S

5c and e2. A nice move.

dr_botnik 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S

bit of a one move wonder and, as has been said, escapable. however, still quite enjoyable. had to scratch me head a bit to figure it out, but when it goes its not as improbable as it first seems, {spoiler} I managed it in balance with left hand on the arete and right on a crimp.

joemallia 17/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Ian MK 05/May/13 Lead dnf

Avoided the Crux to the left (Lucy's Delight).

with Fraser Camble
Sam_Marsland 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Tom Evans
Hidden 09/Oct/12 Lead O/S
rurp 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S

stupid route, jump for ledge which you can avoid 2ft to left or right!

Hidden 06/Jun/12 2nd
dprctr 20/May/12 Lead O/S
with Hok-Him Poon, Martin H, Kim Mulji
Phil West 06/May/12 2nd

Chris moved left into Twin Chimneys Buttress to avoid the crux and I followed him!

with Chris Tan
Hidden 30/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Mar/12 2nd O/S
john lynch 24/Nov/11 2nd O/S
with Lewis Andrew
Justaname 06/Nov/11 TR O/S
with John Hawley
jon clayton 22/Oct/11 Lead
domskezz ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S

May have fudged the crux by reaching out right.

with Jamma
alias dave 02/May/11 2nd O/S
with Sam.EB
Hidden 02/May/11 Lead O/S
uphillnow ??/2011 -
jfane ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
claregardiner 02/Oct/10 Lead
Hidden 30/Sep/10 -
Tony Holdsworth 30/Sep/10 2nd dnf

Guido slid off ontoTwin Chimneys Buttress after the first hard move and I before it!

with Guido
Adam Potter 16/May/10 Lead O/S
Jethro ?/Mar/10 Lead
Wil Treasure ??/2010 Lead
richyg ??/2010 -
Dom Whillans 05/Aug/09 -

billy no mates - on a shunt no way is the crux 5b... got to be 5c at least unless you grab the arete a little

Chris Craggs 02/Aug/09 2nd
with Colin Binks
fatbuoybazza 26/Apr/09 Lead dnf
Hidden 26/Apr/09 Lead dnf
Hidden 05/Oct/08 2nd
hamish2016 05/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Annette (unumc)
Hidden 13/May/08 Solo
fatbuoybazza ??/2008 Lead dnf

good climbing till the bulge, which has got to be harder than 5b, yes you can escape left, but the route is meant to go straight up. tried it on the top rope, even then the bulge was desperate..

with olivia & phil
Hidden 22/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/07 Lead
maybe_si 06/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with charlie
Hidden 23/May/07 Lead rpt
EAYL 03/Nov/06 2nd
with Luketheape
Hidden 30/Sep/06 2nd
Hidden 06/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Iggy_B ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S


with Simon Troop
Hidden 22/Sep/05 Lead dnf
Will Gordon ?/Mar/05 TR
Hidden 08/Aug/04 TR
Hidden ?/Aug/04 TR
Hidden ??/2000 -
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 20
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 17
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set