Rockfax Description
Head up Inverted V for 5m then traverse right along the lowest break and make unlikely-looking pulls up the bulging arete. Once back in balance, finish up the exposed rounded rib - low in the grade. The direct start is the reachy Our Version, E3 6a. © Rockfax

FA. Don Morrison 1960s 1965

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Stanage Wishlist, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS).

NickJH 15/Oct/17 Lead
with Jim, LiamG
stephenmckenzie 06/Oct/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Oct/17 Lead O/S
Theeni 30/Sep/17 Lead O/S
Luke Jones 24/Sep/17 2nd
with Paul Cookson
Pixie-Andy 23/Sep/17 2nd O/S
with Mathew
andrzej kierzek 23/Sep/17 Lead O/S
with Rachel, Mailys
Calum Wadsworth 06/Sep/17 Lead O/S

Cool positions! Exciting in the wind.

with Shaun H
mattkemp70 ?/Sep/17 2nd O/S 17/Aug/17 2nd O/S
with Phil Moore
smoreda 10/Aug/17 2nd
Gudge 06/Aug/17 2nd rpt
high peak 1 ?/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Gordon W 03/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Wizzy 20/Jun/17 Solo O/S

Very nice

Hidden 18/Jun/17 Lead
jameslomax 14/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Holly
dewiturton 31/May/17 2nd
with keitht
keitht 31/May/17 Lead
daveclarke5 21/May/17 Lead
with Stephen
daveclarke5 13/May/17 2nd
with Stephen
mrphilipoldham 13/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Almost pumped out at the end of the traverse but just managed to hold on for the big reach, to thankfully, a good hold.

Paul Hy 13/Apr/17 2nd O/S
with Phil O
Hidden 08/Apr/17 Lead O/S
adam001 02/Apr/17 2nd dnf

Was ok until trying to get over the bulge at about half height...not enough in the arms for it!

Droyd 15/Mar/17 Lead O/S
with Jimmy
Hidden ??/2017 Lead
Guy Bennell ??/2017 Lead
Nigel Bond 15/Oct/16 2nd
Hidden 15/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Oct/16 2nd O/S
khalidq 08/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with David Smith
Dave 08/Oct/16 2nd O/S
Cheethamjd 08/Oct/16 2nd O/S
Sam Hunt 08/Oct/16 Lead O/S
mike8331 23/Sep/16 Lead
with paul delaney
Hidden 06/Sep/16 TR O/S
georgenvk 17/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Rollo 12/Aug/16 2nd
with Samir
samkat 12/Aug/16 Lead
with Rollo
Lancer 01/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Traverse and pull onto the bulge was hairy, and then had a "moment" attempting to get back in balance. There on upwards lots of slopey holds.

with Tom PCC
TClimb 01/Aug/16 2nd
with Nick
Chris Sansum 31/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Steve-o Grima, Duncan Atkinson
Vilius A. 30/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Peter Harris
riff156 23/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Alex 2
Hidden 03/Jul/16 Lead O/S
gpcomps 21/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Felt quite precarious coming off the traverse onto the slab and would have benefited from twin ropes. A 5a for sure

with Andrew
josefft 18/Jun/16 2nd O/S
with Arjun Menon
Mark Stevenson 24/May/16 2nd rpt
with Malcolm Max Streeton
Andy Moles 12/May/16 Solo
David_Gledson 05/May/16 2nd O/S
with Alan
KeenClimber 22/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/16 2nd
Hidden 20/Apr/16 Lead
The Reaper 14/Apr/16 2nd O/S
Flavio 09/Apr/16 Solo O/S
GermanAlex 03/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Completely different from what I expected, getting from Inverted V onto the slab was a walk in the park despite soaking wet holds (thought it was going to be nails), the slab above was definitely not. Poor gear and some very (nice) balancy moves that certainly felt like 5a.

with Robby
Hidden 03/Apr/16 2nd O/S
eduardo 03/Apr/16 2nd
jmills94 20/Mar/16 Lead O/S

really nice route with good exposure. traverse holds are all there and then one pull to get established on the arete, then just the same as hargreves.

with matt
Hidden 20/Mar/16 Lead O/S
MrFantastic 16/Mar/16 Solo dnf

went too far right at one of the breaks

williap 13/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Chris Waddle
brockers 12/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Neil R 12/Mar/16 Lead
shaun walby ?/Mar/16 2nd
with Neil R
Mowglee 14/Feb/16 Lead O/S

Not sure why it's 4c in Rockfax - it's solid 5a! Plenty of gear though.

with Jon
Hidden 14/Feb/16 2nd O/S
olllie26 ??/2016 Lead O/S
JamesWilliams 04/Oct/15 2nd O/S

Cool traverse

adamre12 04/Oct/15 Lead
Hidden 04/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Colin Scotchford 27/Sep/15 2nd
ashtond6 19/Sep/15 Lead O/S


Hidden 08/Aug/15 2nd
nick ferro 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/15 Lead
mike8331 31/Jul/15 2nd
Phil West 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Chris Tan
Hidden 27/Jun/15 Lead RP
hodge192 16/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/15 2nd O/S
hervenuttall ?/Jun/15 Solo O/S
John Nuttall 13/May/15 Lead
with Rory
JEP 10/May/15 2nd O/S
with James
Hidden 10/May/15 2nd O/S
Hoyes 10/May/15 Lead O/S
Shaw Brown 26/Apr/15 Lead
with Simon White, George North
GPN 26/Apr/15 2nd
with Simon, Shaw Brown
Simonfarfaraway 26/Apr/15 2nd
with Shaw
karly54 25/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Paul Cookson
Neil Rigiani 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Tracy Elliot
joemallia 10/Apr/15 2nd rpt

Mark's lead

with Vic Archer, Mark Sinclair
Hidden 07/Mar/15 2nd
mountaingoatgirl 07/Mar/15 TR

Reachy & rounded top section with low gear.

with John the Pastor, Nick Bean
sdavies141 ??/2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Nov/14 Lead O/S
benkelsey 02/Nov/14 2nd O/S
with rory wadsworth
bigdrew 19/Oct/14 2nd O/S
Rachel Slater 19/Oct/14 Lead rpt
vanderz 18/Oct/14 Lead rpt
Gudge 29/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Nice open climbing - great route!

with Steve Collings
grady_9 24/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Dave Mahon 21/Sep/14 Lead

committing step out, had a bit of a gibber putting a cam into the break at the arete.

with Ben Knudson
Hidden 21/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
charley 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Great route. Not sure if I was just reading it wrong or if it was just because it was the last climb of the day but felt closer to 5a and quite run out but the holds are all there.

with Ange
valentinesbabe 05/Jul/14 2nd rpt
shouter 22/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 21/Jun/14 2nd
helin 26/May/14 2nd
with matt
darrencabowabo 21/May/14 2nd
rurp 06/May/14 Lead O/S

Cold, committing. Good climb but warm up first

with bill farmer
Toby Dunn 30/Mar/14 Solo rpt
eburki1 29/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Hidden ?/Dec/13 Solo O/S
Chris Craggs 24/Oct/13 2nd

Great but soft for HVS

with Gordon, Graham Parkes
dannyboy83 05/Oct/13 Solo O/S
Marti999 01/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Debbie
Marti999 01/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Debbie
Hidden 20/Sep/13 Lead
john_ni 20/Sep/13 2nd
John Nuttall 18/Sep/13 Lead
with Simon
Hidden 18/Sep/13 2nd
the power 08/Sep/13 2nd
with rob
dr_botnik 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Neil R 25/Aug/13 2nd
with Jill & Ian
tebs 08/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Tim
Toby Dunn 05/Jul/13 Solo
Toby Dunn 06/Jun/13 Solo
Hidden 26/May/13 Lead
Neil Rodgers (PCC) 25/May/13 2nd dnf

Could not make the full traverse after struggling to retrieve gear and ended up with feet too low. Had to escape to the ledge on the right. Found the traverse really demanding.

with David PCC
Goose4 05/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 08/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 07/Apr/13 Lead dnf
RichyBOYY 07/Apr/13 Lead
Neil R 08/Sep/12 2nd
with Ian
The Bad Cough 04/Sep/12 2nd O/S
John sealey 04/Sep/12 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Coel Hellier 31/Aug/12 Lead
Nick1812P 31/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Jake
Jake Young 31/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Nick
Hidden 09/Aug/12 2nd
Neil R 28/Jul/12 2nd
with Ian
Dale Langan 27/Jul/12 2nd O/S

First climb on Stanage with Charlie on lead. Enjoyed this one!

with Charlie Smith
benscarter 17/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Jack
jwpil 14/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Ben
John Nuttall 26/Jun/12 Lead
with Coel
sgl 01/Jun/12 Lead
with Clare
martroberts 16/May/12 Lead O/S

Really good route with perfect friction (except the first 5 metres of Inverted V) which is very hard to find at this grade on Stanage pop. Harder than expected and more gear than the grade suggested. Definitely 5a and not 4c as in guides in my opinion

Hidden 30/Apr/12 2nd O/S
treg 15/Apr/12 Lead dog

Took a well needed first fall of the season when trying to get on the ledge at the end of the traverse (felt pretty 5a to me). Managed on second attempt. The break climbing on the face is quite easy, but confidence inspiring gear was a little hard to find.

with Rachel, Bird
shouter 30/Mar/12 Lead
joemallia 28/Mar/12 Lead O/S
adrianscott 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
popebenedictus 24/Mar/12 2nd O/S
deacondeacon 23/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Clay C 08/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Stu
Jim Slater 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S
SenDog ?/Jan/12 2nd
Hidden ??/2012 -
Steve Waters, Mynydd 20/Nov/11 2nd
mtempest 20/Nov/11 Lead
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
roberto18 30/Oct/11 Lead
with Dad (Mike Bridges)
mike bridges 30/Oct/11 2nd O/S

Bit wet so was harder than expected, felt tough for 4c.

Cake 02/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with Matt
Hidden 02/Oct/11 TR β
Hidden 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
tsjx 01/Oct/11 2nd
Hidden 26/Sep/11 2nd
gmatthew 18/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Jonathan Hall 17/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden 17/Aug/11 Lead
Chris Craggs 14/Aug/11 2nd
with Graham Parkes
buxtoncoffeelover 29/Jul/11 Lead
Tithe Technique 22/Jul/11 Lead O/S
valentinesbabe 22/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Found this really hard, gear where I wanted to put my hand and felt really out of balance coming round the corner. The rest was dead easy.

Alex 74 11/Jul/11 2nd
with Ian c
Sidekick 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
vanderz ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
victim of mathematics 13/Jun/11 2nd O/S

Very nice

with Dan
dpmUK 13/Jun/11 Lead dog

Rather annoyed to take a rest on this but put my hand into a deep puddle and didn't much fancy committing to the moves or fully reversing after that.

tracyclimber 10/Jun/11 Lead O/S
fatbuoybazza 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Mikael
Hidden 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
adrianj 05/Jun/11 2nd
Hidden 17/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/May/11 Lead O/S
Dafydd Llywelyn 08/May/11 2nd O/S
with Jamie
Hidden 04/May/11 Lead
monika paprzycka 04/May/11 2nd
matty123 30/Apr/11 2nd O/S
mksmith35 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S
allyrocke 24/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Liam Ingram 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Nigel Bond 06/Apr/11 2nd
with Bern Hardman
Hidden 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
uphillnow ??/2011 -
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
31770 06/Nov/10 2nd O/S
Darrell Read 06/Nov/10 Lead
Garron 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Tony Holdsworth 05/Oct/10 2nd rpt
with Guido
Hidden 05/Oct/10 -
derekb 18/Sep/10 2nd O/S
caradoc 03/Sep/10 -
with nick yapp
holters 04/Aug/10 -
gingergeorge 04/Aug/10 2nd
Oceanic 21/Jun/10 -
mikej 18/May/10 2nd
with Rick Naylor
Hidden 18/May/10 Solo O/S
Chris_barr 09/May/10 Lead O/S
with Mike
Dave Mahon 25/Apr/10 2nd
matt.jj 25/Apr/10 Lead dog

Loved the overhanging traverse. Went out to protect it before committing to pulling through. Burned at this stage and took a fall. Went up again an realised I went too far out on the traverse the first time, so made the moves easily. The arete is hard to protect at first, especially if you are a little pumped, but the finish is nice.

adrianscott 20/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Edd Rab
edd rab 20/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with adrian scott
HimTiggins 21/Mar/10 2nd dog

Backed off the lead after getting a bit phased and someone threw a top rope pretty much on my head.

with John
Chi Cheng 02/Mar/10 2nd
Rachel Slater 02/Mar/10 Lead
Sean Kelly ??/2010 -
Wil Treasure ??/2010 Lead
Hidden 13/Dec/09 2nd
JulesV 09/Nov/09 Solo
Shaw Brown 17/Oct/09 2nd
with Stan
Neil Pacey 17/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with Stanley
Hidden 10/Oct/09 Lead O/S
dan gibson 18/Sep/09 Solo O/S
AJ007 18/Sep/09 Solo
belay bunny turned bad 09/Sep/09 2nd
with Debbie
mark4344 04/Jul/09 Lead O/S

delicate traverse out right.

with Andreas
Hidden 04/Jul/09 2nd O/S
raptorheli 01/Jun/09 Lead O/S

did not think the move to the right was 4c more like 5a

jubolo 31/May/09 2nd dog

would have been clean but lost balance on the traverse

with steve
Hidden 25/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Mar/09 2nd
Lou Kennedy 19/Mar/09 2nd
Adam Potter 19/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Mar/09 2nd O/S
BRUCESTRAC ??/2009 -
Brown 18/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Bridget
bridget143 17/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Brown
Hidden 20/Aug/08 Lead O/S
petemeads 15/Aug/08 Lead
with AJMeads
Hidden 27/Jun/08 2nd rpt
Hidden 27/Jun/08 Lead rpt
sam8oy 15/May/08 2nd O/S
with Andy
AndyJBooth 14/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/May/08 2nd O/S
IanJackson ?/Feb/08 Solo O/S
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/08 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
shameless 22/Sep/07 Lead
with chimene
Hidden 21/Sep/07 2nd
HimTiggins 23/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with John, Paul
Hidden 27/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Si dH 09/Jun/07 2nd rpt
with Neil Furniss
Hidden 08/Jun/07 2nd O/S
BenJacobs 06/Jun/07 2nd
with Simon Shaw
Joe Dove 02/Jun/07 Lead
with kev
Steve Waters, Mynydd 23/May/07 Lead O/S

Fantastic traverse - easier than Ellis's eliminate which I had led earlier in the evening. The crux was well protected by 2 Hex's in the main crack and a Camalot placed as far as I could reach along the traverse break before launching across. Good foot holds along the traverse. I managed to get a second Camalot further along the break whilst my left hand was wedged in fantastic hand jam. The traverse finished with a long reach to pull up onto the face. The climb was then a series of step ups on sloping holds with a good big cam halfway up.

with Jo Bowen
Reaver2k 20/May/07 2nd O/S

4c? Didn't find that move! 5a! Polished start up Inverted V obviously still very easy. Traverse out right couldn't find anything for my feet! Mike didn't put any protection in which I think is possible when moving out right? Would be tricky to place though. My feet let loose and couldn't find anywhere for them so I muscled up for the jug. 4c maybe but wouldn't like to lead it with the protection that was in, would be very scary! Move out right onto the main face and this is where I found it tricky. Trying to find my feet without any handholds, needed an extra 2 inches to get a good grip on a slopper so stuck a foot on and sorta "hopped" onto one, never leading that unless I grow! Rest was easy, loved it!

with Mike Mortimer
maybe_si 04/May/07 Lead O/S
with charlie
Phil Latham ?/May/07 TR
oliverthomp 26/Apr/07 TR O/S
tlr ?/Apr/07 2nd
with Pom
nai ?/Apr/07 Lead
with Tim
Graeme Hammond 03/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Feb/07 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
The old James turnbull ??/2007 -
reg_measures 16/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with pete kenyon
tobydunford 28/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Ben Smith
John Marsland 05/Aug/06 Lead
Hidden 05/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 24/Jun/06 Solo O/S
PenJD 10/May/06 Lead O/S
with Ruth Smitton
ukb & bmc shark 29/Mar/06 Solo
Tobias at Home 21/Jan/06 Lead O/S

Traverse tricky if you don't stay low. Somewhat overprotected with 11 pieces of gear.

with Alicia
alicia 21/Jan/06 2nd
with Tobs
Owen W-G 14/Oct/05 Lead O/S
with Max
Si dH 27/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Liz Kooper
greg101 12/Jul/05 Lead
with Matt O'Connor
Hidden 12/Jun/05 2nd
Gambit 04/May/05 Lead O/S
with Tim
Stig 19/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
dicky79 ??/2005 2nd O/S
with Mike Bottomley
Hidden 28/Sep/04 2nd O/S
Jacob Ram 18/Jul/04 Lead O/S

I miss read topo in Stanage guide,thought I was doing Inverted V.Thought it was a bit hard!

with elisa best
Hidden 25/Jun/04 Lead
Pete Nugent 19/Apr/04 2nd
with Lawrence Jordan
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
Hidden 09/Sep/03 Lead
Hidden 20/Jun/03 Solo O/S
John Marsland 05/Apr/03 Lead
with Darrell Small
Paz ?/Apr/03 Lead
with MH
Mark A Humphries 28/Sep/02 Lead O/S
with dean howard
Hidden 24/Jul/02 Lead O/S
Ben Bransby 07/Jun/02 Solo
Mark Stevenson 04/Jun/02 Solo O/S
Budge 27/May/02 Lead O/S
with Mike Oates
Hidden ?/May/02 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2002 -
Roget 14/Sep/01 Solo rpt
cjphillips ?/Sep/01 Lead O/S

Very Exposed

Hidden 26/Aug/01 2nd
Ropeboy 13/Jun/01 Lead


Hidden 08/Aug/00 Lead O/S
skygodley 04/Jun/00 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 19/Mar/00 Lead O/S
with Myles Jordan
Rock Fairy ??/2000 2nd
fellgazelle ??/2000 2nd
with Ann Fooks
Rock Fairy ??/2000 2nd
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Rock Fairy ??/2000 2nd
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
tlr ??/2000 Lead
Mark Davies PK ??/2000 Lead O/S
Martin Bennett 12/Sep/99 -
with MT, SF, SW
Simon Pearce ??/1999 -
furry 16/Aug/97 Lead O/S
with Caz
michael burrows 30/Mar/97 2nd
with mark ryan
Rich Kirby ??/1996 -
rurp ??/1996 -
Rog Wilko ?/Sep/95 Lead
with Alan Nuttall
Chris Ellis 05/Aug/95 Lead
with Martin Veale
Gordon Stainforth 13/Jul/95 2nd
with Steve Dean
roncaves 20/Jun/95 Lead
with Ian Wadsworth
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
crossleysm ??/1993 Lead


andybirtwistle 25/Jul/92 Solo
Chris the Tall ?/May/92 Lead O/S

Rather more direct than necessary - about 5b

with Dave Gurney
Iain Thow 19/Mar/91 2nd

Early morning after bivvy in cave.

with John Irving
Roget 22/Jul/90 Lead O/S
with chris jones, jim
samt 06/Apr/90 2nd
with Scott Willoughby
Hidden 27/Sep/89 Lead
surfbish ?/Aug/89 Lead O/S
Tom V 14/Jun/89 -
with Glenn Watson
Hidden ??/1986 Lead
Neil McA 17/Apr/85 Lead O/S
with Tom Lewis
Dave Musgrove 16/Aug/84 -
stp 03/Mar/84 Solo O/S
Andy Say 29/Jul/81 Lead
GeoffG 31/Mar/76 Lead
Canyak ??/1973 -
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 65
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 63
Votes cast 62
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set