Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Head up Inverted V for 5m then traverse right along the lowest break and make unlikely-looking pulls up the bulging arete. Once back in balance, finish up the exposed rounded rib. © Rockfax
FA. Don Morrison 1960s.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Stanage Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , Severe Stanage , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| milanboez | 22 Oct, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Wasn't to be. Tried 4 times doing the moves after the traverse. Still not totally sure where you're meant to get up. Committed to the sequence after the mantel, very much on the arete, found nothing and took a big whip as the cam by feet in the shallow slot ripped. Expected it to be over after getting to and standing up over the buldge at the arete but maybe the holds were hiding that day. Still don't know how you're meant to do it lol. Wish gear after the traverse was better too! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Wasn't to be. Tried 4 times doing the moves after the traverse. Still not totally sure where you're meant to get up. Committed to the sequence after the mantel, very much on the arete, found nothing and took a big whip as the cam by feet in the shallow slot ripped. Expected it to be over after getting to and standing up over the buldge at the arete but maybe the holds were hiding that day. Still don't know how you're meant to do it lol. Wish gear after the traverse was better too! |
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| James Horner | 9 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Some difficult gear placements and quite run out at the top | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Some difficult gear placements and quite run out at the top |
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| JMarkW | 27 Jul, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Superb - but a gift at the grade, big arms not really needed. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Superb - but a gift at the grade, big arms not really needed. |
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| Si dH | 28 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Dont know where people get 5a from! Soft for HVS and possibly top-end VS but either way,a very very good route. Almost worth 3 stars. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Dont know where people get 5a from! Soft for HVS and possibly top-end VS but either way,a very very good route. Almost worth 3 stars. |
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| MNA123 | 15 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Very nice route indeed, one of my first HVS's last year, can remember my second pooing himself, and he was on the end of the rope! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Very nice route indeed, one of my first HVS's last year, can remember my second pooing himself, and he was on the end of the rope! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Popular
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Legacy
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Kinder Northern Edges)