Rockfax Description
The wall to the right is climbed direct via long reaches between rounded breaks. Protection is good if you carry plenty of cams. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson 1978

Merlin 14/Oct Lead dog
Q.Estelles 14/Oct Lead O/S
with adam088
adam088 14/Oct 2nd O/S
with Quico
Hidden 23/Sep Lead
LBrown 04/Sep -
merski 02/Sep 2nd O/S
Chris Craggs 30/Jul 2nd

Hard pull at the start then plenty of rounded holds

with Graham Parkes
Ben Bransby 30/Jul Solo
adam clarke 29/Jul Lead O/S
with Adam Lynch
lynchit 29/Jul 2nd dog
Hidden 22/Jul Lead
BlueJohn 22/Jul 2nd
with Malc, Neil Shepherd
Derek Furze 16/Jul 2nd
with Paul Mitchell
Hidden 08/Jul 2nd
tombartlett 05/Jul 2nd O/S
with Graham W , Vicky W
teamvix 05/Jul 2nd
with Peak Climbers, Dad
isandyharper 03/Jun 2nd O/S
crossleysm 03/Jun Lead O/S
with Andy Harper
Jim Walton 31/May Lead

Nice route. Needs more ascents.

charley 21/May Lead rpt
with Lisa
Hidden 21/May Lead O/S
Hidden 07/May Lead
Rob Laird 29/Apr 2nd O/S
with B Sosin
mr random 29/Apr Lead

A bit run out in places

Freshprintce 22/Apr Lead
nathanhesslewood 22/Apr 2nd dog
Hidden 03/Apr -
Hidden 24/Feb -
Hidden 14/Feb Lead
Hidden ??/2017 Lead
David Chase 04/Dec/16 2nd
with Max McQuillan
Mark Stevenson 01/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Rich Lade
MDR61 27/Sep/16 2nd rpt
with Mark
mjeffery 27/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Mark
Hidden 11/Sep/16 2nd
Chris Sansum 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with James King, Steve Collard
Danm79 26/Aug/16 2nd dog

100% clean and not as difficult as I was expecting. (In between the two falls).

with Tom
PaulTanton 23/Aug/16 Solo rpt
Droyd 18/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Joe, Rosie
rurp 16/Aug/16 Lead
with emma rowland, Mark, ben rowland
Hidden 06/Aug/16 2nd
Hidden 06/Aug/16 Lead
PaulTanton 19/Jul/16 2nd
with Francis Butler
stev1e.wilso 22/May/16 2nd dog

Could not do start.

with Jess, Simon
Hidden 16/May/16 -
Hidden 05/May/16 Lead
rholdswo 24/Apr/16 Solo O/S
themattyshep 20/Apr/16 Lead
Hidden 19/Apr/16 Lead
eduardo 03/Apr/16 Lead rpt

I didn't carry plenty of cams. So protection wasn't good!

with Dave R
the power 21/Mar/16 Lead
with rob
Hidden ??/2016 -
the power 17/Oct/15 Lead
with deacon
gladys 13/Sep/15 2nd

w Martin Smith

Hidden 12/Sep/15 2nd
cragsman9000 03/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Neil
Neil R 29/Aug/15 2nd
with James M
Jamesmoly 29/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/15 Lead
Hidden 23/Aug/15 Lead O/S
The Grist 23/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Tom Doldon
Nigel Bond 23/Jul/15 Lead
with Bern Hardman
stacey73 20/Jul/15 2nd dog
with OLLIE
Hidden 14/Jul/15 Lead O/S
freemanTom 12/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with Harry SOC
fabricio 03/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with leon
charley 26/Jun/15 2nd rpt
with Mark
imogen.fish 23/May/15 Lead O/S
with Rich Toon
the power 07/May/15 Lead rpt
with rob
Hidden 26/Apr/15 2nd
BnB 25/Mar/15 -
rurp 10/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Mark
Palmer 04/Jan/15 Lead
with Rob
olllie26 ??/2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Neil R 09/Nov/14 2nd

Tried to lead earlier in the day but still wet.

with Tim
Andy Peak 1 03/Nov/14 2nd
Paul Hy 03/Nov/14 2nd RP
the power 03/Nov/14 Lead O/S

Very good

Lenny 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Kev
K Wall 18/Oct/14 -
with Martin
cem 10/Oct/14 2nd rpt
with Ralph
ralphio 10/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Typical of a lot of Stanage HVS's. Long reaches between flared breaks. Engaging all the way without ever feeling too hard.

with Charles
AdamPrzeslak 05/Oct/14 Lead dnf

Not tall enough for the first set of moves and didn't want to cheat using the crack to the left!

pete40 31/Aug/14 2nd
nick ferro 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Enjoyable. 6'2" helps. :)

Hidden 27/Jul/14 2nd
sian88 17/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Guy Atkinson 17/Jul/14 Lead O/S

started a bit in the crack before moving right, didn't use it for gear though. pretty hot and sweaty but there were holds there when you need them.

with Sian
Andy England 06/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Dave Tait, Paul Milne
Calum Wadsworth 13/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Matt F
Andypeak 02/Jun/14 Lead
Dimart 02/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Good if slightly difficult climb. Again long stretches with much smearing.

with Andy
bobpilgrem 06/May/14 TR
with Bob/Nic
CurlyStevo 19/Apr/14 Lead

Quite eliminate, I climbed the slab basically not using the arete or holds too close to it. More of a nice no star route than a 1 star route imo. Some of the rock towards the top is not very good (but you don't use it for hands or feet really)

with Rob
robbraby 19/Apr/14 2nd
with Steveo
HarryBowyer 09/Mar/14 Lead rpt
riff156 22/Feb/14 Lead rpt
with Bob Hotchkis
Hidden ??/2014 2nd
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Aline 01/Dec/13 2nd O/S
with Peak Climbing Club Sheffield
Murilo Lessa 10/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with Bruno Cavaliere
Tithe Technique 10/Nov/13 2nd O/S
charley 10/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with Ange, Kev
valentinesbabe 10/Nov/13 2nd dog

Took me three attempts to get the first move dialled but I got there in the end with a funky swap from horizontal handjam to undercling then fingertapping up the wall to get the break. Lovely climb :D Solid HVS if you don't have a good reach on you.

dannyboy83 05/Oct/13 Solo O/S
islandlynx ?/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Borrow cams of matt and got plenty in. Didn't feel serious.

with Amy
alicethwaites 14/Aug/13 2nd
tim exley 14/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with alice
metrorat 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Neill Hunter
Andrew Lodge 30/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Steve
Hidden 30/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Tony Ryland 30/Jul/13 2nd
dr_botnik 30/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Really worthwhile route, sustained at the start and quite bold, leads to easier better protected ground.

with deacon
Hidden 18/Jul/13 Lead
Hidden 07/Jul/13 2nd
Ian JL 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S
rich_hw 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with gavin_pcc
davewsargent 30/Jun/13 2nd
davewsargent 30/Jun/13 2nd
jshields 30/Jun/13 Lead

Good route.

Hidden 26/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/13 Lead O/S
treg 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S

First reach is the hardest. Pleasant above, and enough gear with a good selection of cams.

with CJ
Hardcore Pat 17/May/13 Lead O/S
with Tesspot
victim of mathematics 17/May/13 Lead RP

Fell off making the first long reach. Got it second go. Tough but really nice moves.

with Jaime
Hidden 07/May/13 Lead O/S
BenedictIEP 03/May/13 2nd RP
Hidden 03/May/13 Lead O/S
giuly 23/Apr/13 2nd dog
with Chris Saunders
migs493 07/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Stanage HVS

with LO
Hidden 17/Feb/13 2nd O/S
AlanPedrick ??/2013 -
tsjx 18/Nov/12 2nd
with Wayne
cragtyke 11/Nov/12 2nd
with john g
HarryBowyer 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Jake Young 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Laura, Jack
jwpil 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Really good moves, liked it.

with Jake
lbarras 21/Oct/12 2nd
with jake
RKirke 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Stroppy 06/Oct/12 2nd
fatbuoybazza 30/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with Mikael
hotfeet 09/Aug/12 Lead
with Alex T
Another James 05/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Rachel
deacondeacon 02/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Gudge ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Dave Sheratt
Hidden 15/Jul/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 15/Jul/12 2nd O/S
dpmUK 14/Jul/12 2nd RP
adam carless 14/Jul/12 Lead rpt

had forgotten I'd done this before. The "long moves" are really that long.

with dpmuk
Alex 74 09/Jul/12 2nd
with Alan M
riff156 20/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Bob Hotchkis
Hidden 10/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Humm1985 06/May/12 2nd
Apharri 02/May/12 2nd O/S
with Dan Parkes
hailtryfan ?/May/12 Lead O/S
David Kay 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Barry Duckworth
Barry D 15/Apr/12 2nd

Hard start!

with Dave Kirsfeld
Oliver Houston 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
ERH 23/Mar/12 2nd
Jeromecooper 23/Mar/12 -
Hidden 19/Mar/12 Solo O/S
Fragmod 11/Mar/12 2nd
Hidden 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S
RiverRoam 06/Nov/11 2nd dog

First climb of day, man, read that wrong!

Hidden 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Goose4 20/Oct/11 Lead O/S
McKEuan 20/Oct/11 2nd
Hidden 13/Aug/11 2nd rpt
pie_eater_pete 08/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Niall
bencole ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
K Wall 23/Jul/11 Lead
with Martin
Nick1812P 24/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Jamie
Hidden 24/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/11 2nd
adrianj 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Jim Slater 24/May/11 Lead O/S
john_ni 24/May/11 2nd
Peakology 20/May/11 Lead O/S

Hard start, bruised my hand and wrist falling back onto a jam on first attempt. Loved the reaches.

with cat
Chalky Cat 20/May/11 2nd O/S
with Dom
Hidden 19/May/11 Lead
Hidden 06/May/11 Lead rpt
claregardiner 04/May/11 Lead
jon clayton 02/May/11 Lead
with Hannah Sinnott
Hidden 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Mike Hegarty 19/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Dave
Hidden 19/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Apr/11 2nd O/S
mark4344 14/Apr/11 2nd

easy but bold ish climbing. matt lead but i found a pointless route. no character.

with Michel, Matt Payne
cheeky 14/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Mark Philipson, Michel
cem 03/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 08/Mar/11 -
Hidden 22/Jan/11 Lead dog
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
uphillnow ??/2011 -
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
mark20 20/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Good route

andrew300169 19/Nov/10 2nd O/S

2nd Pom, It was a good route, pleased to do it in one psu.

with Pom
nai 19/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Cal
Keendan 13/Nov/10 Lead O/S
kitkat78 27/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with Graham P
Ben Harper 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Baby A
andy jennings 10/Oct/10 2nd β
with ben
Hidden 05/Oct/10 Lead
robblowen 04/Oct/10 2nd β
with Patrick
tiga271 02/Oct/10 2nd

v. tight rope !!

with Doug
Darrell Read 18/Sep/10 Lead
Hidden 18/Aug/10 2nd
Si dH 18/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Chris Foster
holters 04/Aug/10 -
gingergeorge 04/Aug/10 2nd
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 25/Jul/10 Solo O/S
tri-nitro-tuolumne 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Fred Yong
wazir.safeer 08/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Jess
Hidden 08/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May/10 2nd
Chris_barr 09/May/10 Lead O/S
with Mike
Hidden 07/May/10 2nd
Jonathan Hall 01/May/10 2nd

If done actually direct then its definately 5c, if it felt easier you probably wussed off left a bit on the big jugs of the other route.

Hidden 24/Apr/10 2nd
tigertim 22/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Dave Reeve 22/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/10 Lead O/S
peter myers ?/Apr/10 Lead
highfivekrissy ?/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden 27/Mar/10 -
Hidden 27/Mar/10 2nd rpt
Mike Goldthorp 12/Mar/10 Solo O/S
buxtoncoffeelover ??/2010 2nd
RM199 ??/2010 Lead O/S
RossG ??/2010 -
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
leon 31/Oct/09 Lead

Found the start hard & tried the same direction about 10 minutes. Gave up, took gear ok (gear is fine) then decided to have one more go. tried a different set of holds & job was a good un. Start still felt hard but don't know how much of this was me being tired from earlier attempts. Rest of route felt MUCH easier than the start.

with Steven Davidson
Hidden ?/Oct/09 2nd
Strong Steve 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/09 Lead dnf
OffshoreAndy 18/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Chris M
chrism225 18/Aug/09 2nd
Mark_RMC 15/Aug/09 2nd

Seconded up after Rob at the end of the day whilst waiting for curry. Nice delicate moves with a challenging start.

with Rob Smart
Helen23 19/Jul/09 2nd

In the rain!

with Jim
fatbuoybazza 18/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Dave Rumney 28/Jun/09 2nd
Hidden 21/Jun/09 Lead
SteveM 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Faff
@ndy 22/Feb/09 2nd
Goose4 ??/2009 -
hamish2016 05/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Annette (unumc)
Hidden 05/Oct/08 2nd
PenJD 17/Aug/08 Lead β

Failed at the start of this route at the end of last year. Cruised it this time!

with Heather Swift
Hidden 16/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Si dH 20/Jul/08 2nd rpt
with Neil Furniss
adam carless 29/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Franco Cookson OLD 31/May/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 20/May/08 TR
Gambit 08/May/08 Lead rpt
with Carl
Gambit 08/May/08 Lead O/S
with Carl
Owdham 03/Apr/08 2nd RP

Struggled up to the first horizontal crack. Then was all good.

with Sam Hal, Matt Scott, Babs
flat eric 13/Mar/08 Lead O/S

Was vearing to the left a bit at the start. Didn't use the arete but there was at least one hold that was a bit large and not in keeping etc etc. By the way, when the guide book says you need a stack of friends, I can only umagine they're supposed to stand at the bottom and catch you. This route has no gear for at least 10 metres.

Hidden 13/Mar/08 2nd O/S
Joe Dove 10/Feb/08 Lead
with kev
Jim Walton ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
Si01 03/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Tor
Pythonist 04/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Chris Jennions
Hidden 22/Sep/07 2nd O/S
HimTiggins 23/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with John, Paul
Hidden 01/Aug/07 2nd
gazfellows 20/Jun/07 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/07 Lead
Hidden 11/May/07 Lead O/S
craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Solo
Graeme Hammond 24/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Pete aka Dad
Hidden ??/2007 -
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
mje1398 02/Nov/06 2nd dog
with John M
Hidden 29/Oct/06 2nd O/S
Whealiebob 29/Oct/06 Lead O/S


with Ned
Hidden 21/Oct/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Oct/06 2nd
Anna Horrox 04/Oct/06 2nd
clive-greenwood 04/Oct/06 Lead
with Anna
colin milton 06/Sep/06 2nd
colin177 ?/Sep/06 TR
Mutl3y 29/Jun/06 2nd
with Fletch
Hidden 27/May/06 Lead
annakyn 10/Apr/06 Lead
with James Dynes
Hidden 04/Apr/06 Lead
ukb & bmc shark 29/Mar/06 Solo
Hidden 18/Feb/06 2nd
Stig 13/Nov/05 Lead rpt
with Jonathan Teale
ukb & bmc shark 29/Oct/05 Solo rpt
Oddjob 16/Oct/05 2nd O/S
with Jez
maybe_si ?/Oct/05 Lead O/S
Si dH 13/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Tom Lambert
Hidden ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/05 2nd
Hidden ?/Apr/05 Lead
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
John Marsland 15/May/04 2nd
with Darrell Small
Hidden 02/May/04 Lead
Hidden 29/Mar/04 2nd dog
Smelly Fox 19/Feb/04 Lead O/S
with Luisa Giles
Phil West 25/Oct/03 Lead rpt
with Chris Tan
Stig 19/Oct/03 2nd O/S
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
darren1 29/Sep/03 -
Hidden 17/Sep/03 Lead
Mark Collins 12/Apr/03 Lead O/S
with Andrew Eakins
Paz ?/Apr/03 Lead
with MH
Hidden ?/Mar/03 2nd
Hidden 06/Oct/02 Lead O/S
Phil West 11/Aug/02 2nd rpt
with Chris Tan
cem 21/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with Romain
chris sm 08/May/02 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2002 -
Jon Greengrass ??/2002 -
TonyF 22/May/01 2nd
with Andy Neath
martroberts 17/Jun/00 Lead O/S
Rock Fairy ??/2000 2nd
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
akhughes ??/2000 -
Chris the Tall ?/May/99 Lead O/S
with Bill G
Simon Pearce ??/1999 -
Coel Hellier ??/1999 Lead
Hidden ??/1996 -
RossG123 ??/1996 Solo
John Southworth 16/Jul/95 Solo O/S
Rob Davies 03/Sep/92 Lead
NeilGriffiths ??/1991 -
RichardMc 28/May/89 2nd
with Jon Clifford-Smith
Andy Say 27/Nov/88 Solo
goi.ashmore 27/May/88 Solo O/S
Hidden 21/Feb/88 Solo
Hidden ?/Jun/87 Lead
Tom V 30/Apr/86 2nd
with Howie Darwin
stp 16/Feb/85 Solo O/S
Dave Musgrove 16/Aug/84 -
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 59
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 57
Votes cast 52
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set